Academic dress of the University of Cambridge
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[[Image:Punting cam gown.jpg|thumb|right|120px|A BA hood being worn with an undergraduate gown]]
The [[University of Cambridge]] has a long tradition of [[academic dress]].
==When academic dress is worn==
Academic dress is still worn quite often in Cambridge on formal occasions. Many undergraduates in their first week at Cambridge buy (or borrow) a gown for the purpose of enrolment in the University (known as [[matriculation]]). It is more common to buy a gown, especially at the more traditional colleges, as the number of occasions on which it is worn quickly repays the investment; gowns are often recycled between 'generations', as new graduate students in turn need to upgrade their gowns at the start of the year. It is usually sufficient for students to buy their gowns in the first few weeks after arrival at the University.
In most colleges, gowns are worn to [[Formal Hall]] (formal dinner, held every night in some colleges, once or twice a term in a few others) and to Chapel. Various College events also demand academic dress; for example, in the [[Trinity College, Cambridge|Trinity College]] regulations for members ''in statu pupillari'', it specifies that certain senior members of College (such as the Dean) prefer students to wear a gown when addressing them in their official capacity (often when having been "deaned" for breaking the College Rules). The extent to which these rules apply vary greatly from college to college, some dispensing with them even for formal hall.
Gowns are also worn, with a hood, to graduation ceremonies. There are strict rules regarding which gown and hood a graduating student should wear. The hood is also worn when attending chapel with [[Choir Dress]] or a [[surplice]].
==Components of Cambridge academic dress==
When wearing full academic dress, a person wears both the gown and the hood of the highest degree he or she has already received from the University of Cambridge.
Anyone who does not hold a Cambridge degree (such as an undergraduate, or a graduate of another university) wears a gown according to his or her status in Cambridge, i.e, undergraduate, BA status or MA status (see below).
A graduand (someone about to be presented for a degree) wears the robes of the highest status degree that they already hold. In the special case of undergraduates, who do not yet hold a degree, they wear their undergraduate gown with the hood of the degree that they are about to receive.<ref>[http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/univ/degrees/dress/ Degree Ceremonies: Academical dress<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref>
Thus, for example, an undergraduate graduating to a BA degree wears an undergraduate gown and a BA hood. A holder of a BA from Cambridge graduating to a PhD wears both a BA hood and gown, whereas a graduate of another university graduating to a PhD wears a BA or MA status gown and PhD hood.
The full list of degrees and their order of seniority is given in the [http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/univ/so/so_ch02.pdf Ordinances of the University]: as a rule of thumb, [[higher doctorate]]s outrank the PhD, which outranks masters' degrees, which outrank bachelors' degrees.
[[Image:Cam gown.jpg|thumb|right|120px|Academic dress worn for a graduation ceremony]]
===Gowns===
The gowns in use in Cambridge, like those generally used throughout the [[United Kingdom|UK]] but not the [[United States|U.S.]], are open-fronted. The main types seen are the undergraduate gown, [[bachelor's degree|Bachelor of Arts]] gown and [[master's degree|Master of Arts]] gown. In addition, for [[Scarlet days]], Doctors (either of Philosophy, or one of the more senior doctorates) wear special dress gowns, distinguished by the use of scarlet.
The sleeves of the gowns of graduates may be adorned with various patterns that indicate the exact degree or degrees that they possess.
===Hoods===
Hoods are worn on the back as an indicator of academic status. These are of the notable ''Cambridge Full'' shape. The hood consists of a cape, cowl, liripipe, and tippet. The neckband of a hood is of the outer colour, with no edging of the lining material. The corners of tippets are square. The design of hoods as set by University Ordinances Chapter II is below.[http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/univ/so/]
{| border="0" cellpadding="2" width="550"
|width="50%"|'''Doctor of Divinity: D.D. '''||width="50%"|of scarlet cloth lined with dove-coloured silk, that is silk of a turquoise-blue shot with rose-pink
|-
|width="50%"|'''Doctor of Laws: LL.D.'''||width="50%"|of scarlet cloth lined with light-cherry silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Doctor of Medicine: M.D.'''||width="50%"|of scarlet cloth lined with mid-cherry silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Doctor of Science: Sc.D.'''||width="50%"|of scarlet cloth lined with pink silk shot with light blue
|-
|width="50%"|'''Doctor of Letters: Litt.D.'''||width="50%"|of scarlet cloth lined with scarlet silk to match the cloth
|-
|width="50%"|'''Doctor of Music: Mus.D.'''||width="50%"|of cream damask lined with dark-cherry satin
|-
|width="50%"|'''Bachelor of Divinity: B.D.'''||width="50%"|of black corded silk lined with black silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Doctor of Veterinary Medicine: Vet.M.D.''' ||width="50%"|of black corded silk lined with scarlet cloth, the hood part lined with mid-cherry silk, four inches (10 cm) deep;
|-
|width="50%"|'''Doctor of Philosophy: Ph.D.'''||width="50%"|of black corded silk lined with scarlet cloth
|-
|width="50%"|'''Doctor of Engineering: Eng.D.'''||width="50%"|of black corded silk lined with bronze silk, the hood part lined with scarlet cloth, four inches (10 cm) deep;
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Surgery: M.Chir.'''||width="50%"| of black corded silk lined with mid-cherry silk;
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Arts: M.A.'''||width="50%"|of black corded silk lined with white silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Laws: LL.M.'''||width="50%"|of black corded silk lined with light-cherry silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Music: Mus.M.'''||width="50%"|of black corded silk lined with dark-cherry satin
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Science: M.Sc.'''||width="50%"|of black cloth lined with pink silk shot with light blue
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Letters: M.Litt.'''||width="50%"|of black cloth lined with scarlet silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Philosophy: M.Phil.'''||width="50%"|of black cloth lined with blue silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Engineering: M.Eng.'''||width="50%"|of black cloth lined with bronze silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Business Administration: M.B.A'''||width="50%"|of black cloth lined with dark green silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Finance: M.Fin.'''||width="50%"|of black cloth lined with light-green silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Education: M.Ed.'''||width="50%"|of black corded silk lined with light blue silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Natural Sciences: M.Sci.'''||width="50%"|of black corded silk lined with pink silk shot with light blue
|-
|width="50%"|'''Master of Studies: M.St.'''||width="50%"|of black corded silk lined with yellow silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Bachelor of Medicine: M.B.'''||width="50%"|the hood and tippet of mid-cherry silk, the hood part-lined with white fur and the tippet edged with white fur
|-
|width="50%"|'''Bachelor of Surgery: B.Chir.'''||width="50%"|the M.B. hood but with no fur edging to the tippet
|-
|width="50%"|'''Bachelor of Arts: B.A.'''||width="50%"|of black stuff, part-lined with white fur, the tippet edged with white fur; or, until further order, of black stuff, part-lined with white, the tippet edged with white
|-
|width="50%"|'''Bachelor of Laws: LL.B.'''||width="50%"|the M.B. hood and tippet but of light-cherry silk
|-
|width="50%"|'''Bachelor of Music Mus.B.'''||width="50%"|the M.B. hood and tippet, but of dark-cherry satin
|-
|width="50%"|'''Bachelor of Veterinary Medicine: Vet.M.B.'''||width="50%"|the M.B. hood but with an edging of white fur, two inches wide (5 cm), to the tippet
|-
|width="50%"|'''Bachelor of Education: B.Ed.'''||width="50%"|of black stuff, part-lined with blue silk and an edging of white fur, the tippet edged with white fur
|-
|width="50%"|'''Bachelor of Theology for Ministry B.Th.'''||width="50%"|of black stuff, lined with black silk, the tippet edged with white fur
|-
|}
===Academic caps===
A form of a black cap known as a [[mortarboard]] (or ''square'') may be worn or carried. Properly, it is worn outdoors and carried indoors, except by people acting in an official capacity who may continue to wear it indoors. In practice, few people wear (or even carry) a cap nowadays; caps ceased to be compulsory for undergraduates in 1943 due to a shortage during the Second World War, and, after bringing them back for degree ceremonies in the Senate House only, were finally made optional for undergraduates in 1953. They are nominally still required for graduates.
With their festal gowns, Doctors may wear [[Tudor bonnet]]s instead of a mortarboard, which are round and made of velvet, with gold string and tassels, except that Doctors of Divinity wear a black [[Bishop Andrewes cap]].
===''Sub-fusc''===
''[[Sub-fusc]]'' means "of a dark/dusky colour", and refers to the clothes worn with full academic dress in Cambridge. Generally, this involves a dark suit and white shirt, collar, [[Bands (neckwear)|bands]] and bow tie for men (who must also wear black socks), and a dark suit and white blouse for women. The rules for dress on graduation for women also specify that women's attire must have long sleeves and, if a skirt is worn, it must be knee-length or longer and worn with tights.
In place of ''sub-fusc'', members of Her Majesty's [[Armed force|Forces]] have in the past been allowed to wear their service [[uniform]], persons in [[holy orders]] their clerical dress, and [[national dress]] has been worn, together with the appropriate gown and hood. Currently as of 2007, national dress is no longer accepted as an alternative to ''sub-fusc''. The [[proctor]]s have discretion to waive the part of the regulations concerning dark clothes and white tie on 'reasonable grounds'.
The Cambridge form of ''sub-fusc'' is usually not as strict as that at Oxford, and gowns are often worn with less formal attire (particularly by undergraduates who are required to wear gowns to hall). However, the rules are enforced strictly at formal graduation ceremonies, and persons who are incorrectly dressed may be prevented from graduating in person and their [[Praelector]] or Presenter may be fined.
==Academic dress for members of the university==
===Undergraduates===
All undergraduate gowns resemble knee-length versions of the B.A. gown, but many colleges at Cambridge have gowns that differ slightly from the main pattern. The standard gown is black, and most colleges' gowns include minor variations such as sleeve decoration. The most distinct differences are the blue colour of the undergraduate gowns of [[Trinity College, Cambridge|Trinity]] and [[Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge|Caius]] and the blue facings of [[Selwyn College, Cambridge|Selwyn]]. Illustrations of the various collegiate gowns are available from the University's Heraldic and Genealogical Society [http://www.societies.cam.ac.uk/cuhags/gowns/gowns.htm website].
===B.A. and M.A.===
The two most common graduate gowns in Cambridge are the B.A. gown and the M.A. gown. Unlike in most other universities, except the [[University of Oxford]], no bachelor's degree save the B.A. is awarded and all undergraduates at Cambridge traditionally graduated with a B.A. degree after 3 years, although, these days, many graduates also obtain a master's degree, such as an M.Eng or M.Sci., after a further year of study, and graduate to both degrees at once.
As in Oxford, B.A.s are automatically entitled to proceed to the degree of Master of Arts after a period of time (see also [[Master of Arts (Oxbridge and Dublin)]]). In Cambridge, this period is 6 years from the end of the first term after [[matriculation]] provided this is at least two years from the award of the BA [http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/univ/so/so_ch05.pdf] — BAs are thus eligible for the MA at the first graduation ceremony in the 7th calendar year after matriculation.
The B.A. gown is a long black stuff (cloth) gown with long bell-shaped sleeves to the wrists with the forearm seam left open from near the shoulder to around 4-3" from the wrist. The gown is gathered at the back in a yoke, and falls down to just below the knees. The B.A. hood is of black cloth, bound and half-lined in white (artificial) rabbit fur.
The M.A. gown is similar to the B.A. gown, except that it has "boot" sleeves, which are long, rectangular and closed at the ends, with a crescent cut out of each sleeve-end which curves at the top (unlike the Oxford MA gown), and a horizontal arm-slit just above the elbow. It falls down to calf length (slightly longer than the BA gown) and may be made of silk. The M.A. hood is of black cloth bound and lined in white silk.
Other Masters' gowns vary from subject to subject at Cambridge; for example, the Master of [[Engineering]] (MEng) and M.Sci. gowns are the standard M.A. gown but with an embroidered wheel on each sleeve, and a corresponding hood is worn.
The M.Phil gown is the same as the M.Sci. gown, but instead of an embroidered wheel, it has two buttons connected by a horizontal embroidered line at the shoulder.
Persons without a Cambridge degree (including those with a degree from another university) wear a "B.A. status" or "M.A. status" gown, which is identical to a B.A. or M.A. gown but with the "strings" (black ribbons attached inside the shoulder) removed. The B.A. status gown is for those aged under twenty-four while the MA gown is for those aged twenty-four or over. (The rationale is that Cambridge students would usually join the university at 18, obtain their B.A. after 3 years, at 21, and their M.A. after a further 3 years, at 24.)
===Doctors===
Doctors in Cambridge have two forms of academic dress: ''undress'' and ''full dress'' (or ''scarlet''). Scarlet is worn on formal college and university occasions, and so-called [[Scarlet day|Scarlet Days]] (mostly [[Church of England]] festivals such as [[Easter]] and [[Christmas]]).
The ''undress gown'' or ''black gown'' is similar to the M.A. gown (for Ph.D, Litt.D, Sc.D and in practice D.D.) or is a 'lay-type' gown similar to that worn by [[Queen's Counsel]] (LL.D., M.D., Mus.D.). Different doctorates are distinguished from each other and from the plain M.A. gown by different arrangements of lace on the sleeves, facings or flap collar. Undress gowns may be made of silk or stuff. The gown may be worn with a doctor's hood. The Ph.D. hood, the one most commonly seen, is made of black corded silk lined with scarlet cloth; the hoods of higher doctors are made of red cloth and lined with silk in the faculty colour (scarlet for letters, pink shot light blue for science, light-cherry for laws, mid-cherry for silk, dove grey for divinity). The Mus.D. hood is of cream damask lined with dark cherry satin.
The ''full dress'' or ''scarlet gown'' differs for each doctorate, but uses the same material and colours as the hood. For Ph.D.s, there are two versions of the scarlet gown. The traditional version is the same as the M.A. gown (in theory, though not in practice, the silk version), with the addition of a broad red cloth stripe down each side at the front. The alternative version (authorised in 2006 [http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/reporter/2005-06/weekly/6040/16.html] [http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/reporter/2005-06/weekly/6042/27.html] but commonly used without authorisation before then) uses detachable facings on an undress Ph.D. gown, which is distinguished from the M.A. gown by doctors' lace on the sleeves that is not found on the traditional festal Ph.D. gown. For the higher doctorates, such as LL.D. or Sc.D., the scarlet gown is a more impressive affair, being brightly coloured and voluminous, with open sleeves that hang long at the back, at the sleeve front, the lining is turned outwards and is fixed in position by a twisted cord and button. The linings of the sleeves and the facings are in silk of the faculty colour.
Graduates of other universities may wear the academic dress of those universities on scarlet days, unless they are university officials or participating in a degree ceremony.
==University officials==
[[Image:Cam degree ceremony.jpg|thumb|right|120px|University officials dressed for a degree (graduation) ceremony]]
===The Chancellor===
The Chancellor of the University wears on ceremonial occasions a black silk gown with a long train, decorated with gold lace, similar to the gown of the [[Lord Chancellor]].
=== Persons presenting for or conferring degrees ===
The Vice-Chancellor or his/her deputy, when conferring degrees, and anyone who is not a praelector of a college presenting a graduand (in practice, this is limited to the certain Doctors of Divinity, Law and Physic or their deputies presenting for higher doctorates) wears a scarlet ''cappa clausa'', or "closed cope" of scarlet cloth with an ermine hood and trimmings, as shown in the image. Cambridge is the only university in the world to retain the ''cappa clausa'' as part of its academical dress.
===Proctors===
The [[Proctor]]s in Cambridge are formally responsible for the discipline of junior members of the university. In addition, they have various ceremonial and administrative duties, which they are, in practice, mainly occupied with.
In both Oxford and Cambridge, the Proctors could formerly be seen patrolling the streets after dark with the university Constables, or ''bulldogs'', who wore top hats in Cambridge and bowler hats in Oxford. These traditions have now ceased, although the Proctors are still responsible for posting various disciplinary notices (e.g. highlighting the restriction on undergraduates' possession of motor cars) around the Colleges. Their Constables continue to wear top hats and cloaks on ceremonial occasions.
The Proctors wear the academic dress of a Master of Arts, but with a distinctive [[Ruff (clothing)|ruff]] at the neck. They wear the MA hood to congregations, but at other times wear the hood "squared," meaning that it is so folded that it presents the appearance of a large square cape. The method of arranging this dress has been handed down, as has a pattern "ruff", from Proctor to Proctor; but nowadays the repositories of such traditions are more often the Proctors' men, who, in these matters, perform the offices which judges expect of their clerks.<ref>[http://www.kellscraft.com/Cambridge/Cambridge02.html CAMBRIDGE Described by NOEL BARWELL Pictured by E. W. HASLEHUST]</ref>
The University constable, or ''bulldog'', has full dress comprising a long blue cloak studded with brass buttons. With this he carries a halberd.
===Other officials===
Other officials such as the [[Esquire Bedell]] or [[Orator]] wear the academic dress appropriate to their degree.
==References==
{{Reflist}}
==External links==
*[http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/univ/so/so_ch02.pdf University of Cambridge Ordinances, Chapter II, contain regulations on academical dress] (PDF)
*[http://www.srcf.ucam.org/cucags/home.htm Cambridge University Cap & Gown Society], formed to promote awareness and wearing of Academical Dress at Cambridge.
*[http://www.burgon.org.uk/ The Burgon Society, founded to promote the study of Academical Dress]
*[http://www.cam.ac.uk/societies/cuhags/gowns/gowns.htm Cambridge University Heraldic & Genealogical Society gown guide]
*[http://www.cai.cam.ac.uk/students/graduation/dress.php Gonville & Caius College: Dress at graduation]
*[http://www.cai.cam.ac.uk/students/graduation/academic.php Gonville & Caius College: Academic dress]
*[http://www.newhall.cam.ac.uk/tutorial/graduation/dress.html New Hall College: Academical dress]
*[http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/reporter/1997-8/weekly/5732/26.html Discussion of the wearing of academical dress on scarlet days]
*[http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/reporter/1998-9/weekly/5782/16.html Discussion of academical dress for the Vet.M.D. degree]
*[http://www.ryderamies.co.uk/ Ryder and Amies] academic tailors, with images of academic dress on their website
*[http://www.aeclothier.co.uk/ A. E. Clothier] University and General Outfitter (specialising in menswear and university clothing; jewellery with college crests; full dress hire service)
*[http://www.admin.cam.ac.uk/univ/degrees/ma/ University of Cambridge: Information on the Cambridge MA]
[[Category:Academic dress|Cambridge]]
[[Category:University of Cambridge]]