Bearded Dragon
4717370
226085875
2008-07-16T19:35:35Z
Juliancolton
2793164
Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/69.108.68.46|69.108.68.46]] (using [[WP:HG|Huggle]])
[[Image:Bearded Dragon at Indianapolis Zoo.JPG|300px|right|thumb|A bearded dragon [[bask]]ing in the [[Indianapolis Zoo]].]]
'''Bearded Dragon''' is the common name for any [[agamid]] [[lizard]] in the genus '''''Pogona'''''. They are native to [[Australia]].
Bearded Dragons are popular exotic [[pets]] in many places, notably the species ''[[Pogona vitticeps]]'', the Inland or Central Bearded Dragon. These pets are also affectionately called "Beardies" by those who breed or raise them. They are a popular breed among children, because of their friendly and calm nature, along with the relative ease of caring for them.
== Characteristics ==
[[Image:Bearded Dragon showing beard.jpg|thumbnail|An [[Eastern Bearded Dragon]] displaying its beard.]]
Bearded Dragon have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, with adults reaching approximately 18 to 24 inches head-to-tail they can live typically 8–15 years <ref>{{cite web |title=Caring for an
Australian Bearded Dragon |author= K. W. Tosney |year= 2004 |month= 01 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDcare.html#Anchor-General-14210}}</ref>. When threatened, they will expand a spiny pouch under their jaw, as well as inhale air and puff up to make them appear larger. The pouch resembles a [[beard]], lending the animal their name. Males have a distinct set of pre-anal pores between the back legs and have hemipenal bulges at the vent area. Females lack both the pores and bulges. The pores are easy to see by simply looking at the underside of the dragon. With the tail vertical it is easier to see the two bulges formed by the hemipenes on the males. Females do not have the two bulges or the indentation between the lumps, rather females have one small broad lump that is closer to the vent. Males are often slightly larger and have a black>pouch under their jaw unlike the females but females have orange pouches, with a broader head in proportion to their bodies, but females are often slightly more heavily set. Bearded Dragons have a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized [[Scale (zoology)|scales]]) radiating horizontally from the head to the base of the tail. Their color ranges from light tan to dark brown, depending on their native soil, often with highlights of black, brilliant red, or gold, and can change somewhat depending upon their internal condition, mood or temperature [darkening when cool]. Some captive populations have been [[Selective breeding|selectively bred]] for more brilliant colorations. As juveniles, they are semi-[[arboreal]]. As adults, they are more terrestrial, but will climb to bask and search for prey. Bearded Dragons can occupy a large range of habitats from the [[desert]] to dry [[forests]] and [[scrubland]]s <ref name=AnapsidBD>{{cite web |title=Dragons Down Under: The Inland Bearded Dragon |author= Melissa Kaplan |date= 2007-04-19 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html}}</ref>
All species are from [[Australia]], but they have been exported worldwide and bred successfully in captivity. In the wild, the various species are widely distributed throughout different regions of Australia. Bearded Dragons live about 8–15 years with proper care in captivity, though some can live up to 20 years old<ref>{{cite web |title=Bearded Dragons |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/factsheets/Others/Bearded-Dragons/364}}</ref>.
Bearded Dragons are opportunistic [[omnivore]]s. Many Bearded Dragon habitats are dry and sparsely vegetated, so food may often be difficult to find. As a result, Bearded Dragons are capable of subsisting on a wide variety of food sources.
Their stomachs are large enough to accommodate large quantities of food. Young Bearded Dragons do not eat as much vegetation as their adult counterparts. As a Bearded Dragon ages it may be persuaded to eat less animal matter and more plants, maybe levelling off at around an 80% plant and 20% animal diet<ref name=DaichuBD>{{cite web |title=Frequently Asked Questions |author= Robert and Victoria Daichu |date=2007-05-26 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.dachiu.com/care/abeard.html}}</ref>.
Due largely to their animated and highly social behavior, mild temperament, willingness to breed in captivity, flexible diet, and robust nature, Bearded Dragons are popular among reptile enthusiasts as [[pets]].They make a great pet for children because they are relatively friendly for reptiles. Also they make excellent first time pets for inexperienced first time pet owners and a great treat for the family.
== Feeding ==
[[Image:BeardedDragonEatting.jpg|thumbnail|left|Bearded Dragon eatting [[Dandelion]] leaves.]]
Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, requiring both insects and vegetable food. A typical diet for captive Bearded Dragons includes leafy greens and vegetables, and regular meals of feeder insects.
Popular feeder insects include [[cricket]]s, [[roach]]es, [[locust]]s, [[silkworm]]s, [[hornworm]]s, [[butterworm]]s, and [[phoenix worm]]s<ref>{{cite web |title=Bearded Dragons Care Sheet |author= Jeremiah Jaeger |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/caresheet/?page=3}}</ref>. The [[mealworm]] has a fairly hard [[chitin]] (exoskeleton) and is generally low in the "chitin to meat" ratio, as well as having a poor phosphorous/calcium ratio, making it far less nutritious than other feeder insects<ref>{{cite web |title=Caring for an
Australian Bearded Dragon |author= K. W. Tosney |year= 2004 |month= 01 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDcare.html#Anchor-Insects-23240}}</ref>. Chitin is hard enough that large amounts of it can cause impaction in the Bearded Dragon's digestion system, and can lead to death, especially in younger and smaller animals. [[Waxworm]]s, and superworms can be given as a treat, but sparingly as in most cases as they are extremely fatty, and in some cases very addictive, although they can be useful in building-up an undernourished individual. The rule of thumb on feeder insects is that the food fed to the animal must not be larger than the space between the eyes; feeding something larger could make it hard for the animal to swallow the food and can lead to the aforementioned fatal impaction<ref>{{cite web |title=Impaction in Bearded Dragons |coauthors= Alex Sleeis and Denise Bushnell |date= 2006-07-07 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/}}</ref>.
A significant portion of the Bearded Dragon's diet may consist of leafy greens. Dragons enjoy many types of readily available greens, including: [[collard green]]s, [[Kale]](recommended only given on occasion), [[cabbage]], spring greens, [[escarole]], [[turnip|turnip greens]], [[mustard|mustard greens]], [[romaine lettuce]], [[dandelion|dandelion greens]], [[parsley]], and [[carrot|carrot tops]]<ref name=Nutrition>{{cite web |title=Nutrition Content |author= Beautiful Dragons |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html}}</ref>. It is also recommended that this portion of the Dragon's diet be supplemented with a variety of finely diced [[fruit]]s, [[vegetable]]s, and [[legume]]s. Feeding a mixture of these plants ensures a wider variety of nutrients, and variations in texture to aid digestion.
===Poisonous/Dangerous Foods===
Insects caught in the wild are not recommended, due to the increased risk of [[pesticide]] exposure and parasites. [[Fireflies]] and all other animals with [[Bioluminescence|bioluminescence chemicals]]<ref>{{cite web |title=Two Cases of Firefly Toxicosis in Lizards |coauthors= Michael Knight, Richard Glor, Scott R. Smedley, Andres Gonzalez, Kraig Adler, and Thomas Eisner |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.nbb.cornell.edu/neurobio/eisner/pogona.html}}</ref> can be fatal to Bearded Dragons.
[[Avocado]] and [[Rhubarb]] are lethal to Dragons as well as birds. Some greens, such as [[iceberg lettuce]], are mostly water and can lead to diarrhea or malnutrition. [[Spinach]] contains high [[oxalate]]s which bind to calcium and in large amounts can lead to metabolic bone disease. [[Kale]] and [[cabbage]] also contain oxalates, but the ability of oxalates to lower calcium absorption is relatively small and definitely does not outweigh the ability of oxalate-containing foods, such as kale and cabbage, to contribute calcium to the meal plan. If a bearded dragon's digestive tract is healthy, and it receives adequate UV light and temperatures, it will get significant benefits - including absorption of calcium - from calcium-rich food plants that also contain oxalic acid.
== Housing ==
A 20 gallon (75 litre) [[vivarium]] is the bare minimum for a [[juvenile]] Bearded Dragon, however they will fast outgrow this within their first year. When provided with the proper habitat, temperatures, and UVB lighting, Bearded Dragons are hardy lizards. They are also pets who do their best to hide health problems when becoming ill (as do most reptiles). This is probably an instinctual behavior, since a sick Dragon in the wild would probably not live long. The most common diseases include Agamid adenovirus, mites, terminal ingestion, thermal burns, calcium deficiency or in severe cases even bone disease, impaction, hypovitaminosis A, respiratory infections, dehydration, stomatitis, internal parasites, coccidia and other parasites, dystocia (egg binding), and MBD[4].
For an adult the minimum is a 40 gallon (150 litre) breeder, though many breeders recommend a 55 gallon (200 litre) breeder instead<ref>{{cite web |title=Bearded Dragon Stats and Facts |coauthors= Drs. Foster & Smith |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=17&cat=1796&articleid=2730}}</ref>. This allows the Dragon ample space to turn around, lie down, and run to and fro as it chooses.
Bearded Dragons bask most of the day, absorbing the heat they need to digest their food. It is important that there are at least one or two good basking spots in the Dragon's [[habitat]]. Rocks are preferable to logs as they hold heat better, though logs can also provide stimulation for the animal as they will climb up and down it<ref name=DaichuBD />. Any item taken from the outside must first be boiled or baked, however, to remove contaminants. Electric or battery powered heating devices such as HotRocks can cause stomach burns if they malfunction, so they are not widely recommended<ref>{{cite web |title=Hot Rocks and Reptiles |author= Melissa Kaplan |date= 2007-04-19 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.anapsid.org/hotrock.html}}</ref>. A habitat should also include something the Dragon can hide under.
Bearded Dragons also need proper lighting. A [[UVB]] light is needed, with two options being available, [[Fluorescent]] strip bulbs or [[Mercury-vapor lamp|mercury vapor bulbs]]. These bulbs will need to be kept within 8 inches of the basking spot so your lizard can properly absorb the rays and need to be replaced every 6 months<ref name=LiteHeat>{{cite web |title=Lighting and Heating for Reptiles |author= Melissa Kaplan |date= 2007-04-19 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.anapsid.org/liteheat.html}}</ref>. Without a good UVB the Dragon will develop MBD and not eat as much. A Dragon needs between 12 and 14 hours of daylight; much less or more causes problems with their circadian rhythms and makes them lethargic and sick.<ref>{{cite web |title=Caring for an Australian Bearded Dragon |author= K. W. Tosney |year= 2004 |month= 01 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDcare.html#Anchor-Lighting-44867}}</ref>
For heating, Bearded Dragons need bright white light during the day. At night a red light can be used, as it will provide heat and you will be able to see it, but it will not disturb the animal's sleep cycle. Under tank heaters are one option for keeping the tank warm at night when the heating lamp is off, while ceramic heat emitters are another<ref name=LiteHeat />.
Temperature is one of the most important health factors. A Dragon needs the correct temperature to digest, so a good [[thermometer]] is essential. Analog, Round, stick-on, and other non-digital thermometers do not measure basking temperature properly as they do not measure the actual basking spot, just the temperature of the air or glass. A digital thermometer with a probe or an [[Infrared thermometer]] are two recommended [[Digital thermometer#Types of thermometers|types of thermometers]]<ref>{{cite web |title=Bearded-Dragons.com Caresheet |date=2006-05-05 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://bearded-dragons.com/boards/index.php/topic,3164.0.html}}</ref>. Temps need to be 40C-43C (105F-110F) [basking spot] during day and 15C-26C (60F-80F) at night (the higher end of this range for babies, the lower portion of the range for adult Dragons). If the dragons do not receive the proper heat they will become lethargic, and they will eat less. Eventually the lack of proper heating will become fatal.
[[substrate (aquarium)|Substrate]] is another very important factor in keeping a healthy Dragon. Babies and Juveniles are particularly at risk of impaction and are often kept on paper towels, as they are easy to dispose of and clean up after, and there is no risk of the baby ingesting substrate. Tile is another popular choice, as is reptile carpet. As the Dragon gets older it can be put on finely sifted play sand. Calcium sand is often used and widely recommended, but is also reported to be a cause of impaction due to 'clumping' in the gut if ingested, while play sand will pass straight through a well fed individual. Rabbit food pellets, made of alfalfa, are the recommended choice by most breeders as they are ingestable and also easy to clean. Walnut shells, wood chips, and anything else of that sort are never to be used. They are large, with sharp edges, and can be swallowed. They are not digestible, however, and will swell and clog the gut, causing a very painful and potentially fatal impaction<ref name=DaichuBD />.As well 4 gallon(150litre)cage is very good for adults.
== Handling ==
Gently scoop up your Beardie with your hand under its belly. Dragons tend to be very trusting and will not necessarily hold on as well as other lizards, so always take care to support your Beardie. They do not like being firmly held; let them rest in your palm. Since Beardies are inquisitive animals, it is always a good idea to create a controlled space in which it may do some exploring. And watch out for the jumpers. One lady e-mailed me and told me about how her Beardie suddenly jumped off her shoulder and landed on the floor. Unfortunately, three days later the same Beardie died of internal injuries from the fall. So keep a close eye on your beardie and never leave him unattended when out of his cage
== Personality ==
Bearded Dragons are known, according to many owners, to be very docile and trusting, yet at the same time, outgoing and curious lizards. If you scare them [typically by approaching from above] they may make a slight hissing sound, usually opening their mouth in a threatening gape display. Their behaviour includes body language such as head bobbing [as a signal of dominance or defiance, usually but not exclusively in the male] and front leg waving [a submissive acknowledgement]. It is not recommended to try and arouse this behavior, however, as it is territorial in nature.
''[[Pogona vitticeps]]'' is one of the more docile and friendly lizard species in the lizard pet trade. Unlike many large [[Monitor lizard]]s and smaller lizards like [[Anole]]s, some people who have encountered Bearded Dragons argue the reptiles actually enjoy human contact and to be handled by humans. However, it is widely accepted they are at best simply indifferent to human contact. Although they may assume a defensive position, they very rarely bite, scratch, or otherwise attack a human. They are likable and get the owner lots of attention, especially if you take them out and about for a walk (providing it isn't too cold) in fact civilians have been known to stop people and take pictures. As a result, Bearded Dragons are a suitable reptile for a house with children provided hands are washed after contact.
Bearded Dragons are territorial and may fight a tank mate if an argument arises. Pairs of any gender combination have been known to fight, resulting in some cases in death of one or both of the pair. Unless two males are cohabiting, trouble is unusual with proper husbandry.<ref>{{cite web |title=BeardedDragon.org topic |accessdate= 2008-03-23 |url=
http://www.beardeddragon.org/bjive/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=74666&st=0&sk=t&sd=a}}</ref>.
Generally, well housed and fed Bearded Dragons will live very well together, and will clearly mope if separated.
Dragons may [[brumate]], a period similar to a mammal's hibernation<ref>{{cite web |title=Brumation (hiberation) in the Australian Bearded Dragon |author= K. W. Tosney |year= 2004 |month= 10 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDbrumate.html}}</ref>. The animal will become lethargic and not come out that often, eating less, if anything, for a period of two to three months. It's often a concern to those unfamiliar with it, as lethargy and lessened appetite usually mean illness. When brumation starts to happen, it's suggested to go to a [[veterinarian]] with a fresh fecal sample for inspection for illness and parasites. In captivity brumation is often induced [with fewer hours of light and lower temps] to promote breeding activity in the following spring.
== Breeding ==
Due to selective breeding, Dragons have begun to exhibit rather distinctive colorations. These "designer" Dragons display brilliant hues of pastel oranges, violets, and reds<ref>{{cite web |title=Bearded Dragon Gallery |author= Robert and Victoria Daichu |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.dachiu.com/gallery/pix.html}}</ref>. The most popular morph thus far has been the "Sand Fire" Dragon, which exhibits a bright red-orange color with black stripes. A more unusual sub-breed is the leatherback, and another of that is the silk-back. These Dragons have reduced or no scales respectively, creating a smoother appearance<ref>{{cite web |title=Upcoming Projects for 2007 |author= Robert and Victoria Daichu |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.dachiu.com/projects.html}}</ref>. Much like designer dogs, the price tags of these customized pets are many times the price of Dragons without a specific morph.
To sex a Dragon, one must hold the tail up and look above the [[cloaca]], also known as the vent. Males have two [[Hemipenis|hemipenal]] bulges just above it on either side, on the base of the tail, creating an [[hourglass]] shaped indent. Females have only a single bulge in the centre. Males are also known to have large femoral pores along the inner thigh<ref>{{cite web |title=Sexing Your Bearded Dragon |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/sexing/}}</ref>, although this is not as reliable an indicator. Dragons usually lay between twenty and thirty eggs at a time, but can lay up to 50 eggs a clutch<ref>{{cite web |title=Egg laying in the Australian Bearded Dragon |author= K. W. Tosney |year= 2004 |month= 10 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDeggs.html}}</ref>. The female will attempt to dig a hole in preferably damp substrate to lay and subsequently bury the eggs. Females have been known to eat the eggs that were not fertilised. Eggs are usually incubated between 25'c and 30'c for 50–75 days, although much longer incubation periods have been known at lower temperatures. Higher temperatures are likely to kill the eggs.
Hatchlings may take up to 24 hours to emerge from the egg, and will be consuming egg nutrients for two to three days before eating food. They will then need very small live food [e.g. pinhead crickets] and may eat finely chopped greens. Food should be dusted with 'calcium powder', and water should be sprayed or provided in a very shallow dish.
== Diseases ==
When provided with the proper habitat, temperatures, and [[UVB]] lighting, Bearded Dragons are hardy lizards. They are also pets who do their best to hide health problems when becoming ill (as do most reptiles). This is probably an instinctual behavior, since a sick Dragon in the wild would probably not live long. The most common diseases include [[Agamid adenovirus]], [[mites]], terminal ingestion, thermal burns, [[calcium deficiency]] or in severe cases even bone disease, [[impaction]], hypovitaminosis A, [[respiratory infection]]s, [[dehydration]], [[stomatitis]], internal parasites, [[coccidia]] and other parasites, [[dystocia]] (egg binding), and MBD<ref name=DaichuBD />..
==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Central Bearded Dragon.jpg|Central/Inland Bearded Dragon at the [[Henry Doorly Zoo]]
Image:Defensive bearded dragon.jpg|From central NSW.
Image:Pogona vitticeps2.jpg|Pogona vitticeps
Image:JuvenileBeardedDragon.jpg|Young Pogona vitticeps
Image:Beardie_(800_x_600).jpg|Bearded Dragon picture
Image:Bearded dragons indy zoo.jpg|Group of Inland Bearded Dragons basking on a rock at the [[Indianapolis Zoo]]'s desert exhibit.
Image:Bearded_dragon_pile.jpg|Two domestic Bearded Dragons basking on a log
Image:Bearded Dragon gape.jpg|Female Bearded Dragon gaping to dissipate excess heat while basking
Image:Beardeddragon.jpg|A male bearded dragon basking under a lamp, enjoying the heat.
Image:Bearded-dragons-at-Brisbane-Forest-Park.jpg|Bearded dragons at [[Brisbane Forest Park]] in [[Brisbane]], [[Queensland]], [[Australia]]
</gallery>
==References==
{{Reflist}}
==Further reading==
*{{cite web | url = http://www.smuggled.com/pogona1.htm | title = Pogona - From an Australian Perspective. | accessdate = | author = Raymond Hoser | authorlink = | coauthors = | date = June 1997 | work = | publisher = Author's website | quote = paper from REPTILIAN MAGAZINE (UK), 5 (2), , pp. 27–41 (Online version) }}
==External links==
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{{Commons-inline}}
* [http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDcare.html bio.miami.edu/caresheet]
* [http://bearded-dragons.com/boards/index.php bearded-dragons.com/forum]
* [http://www.beardeddragon.org beardeddragon.org]
* [http://www.beardeddragoncare.net Bearded Dragon Care]
[[Category:Agamidae]]
[[Category:Reptiles of Australia]]
[[Category:Pet reptiles]]
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