Black tie 39087 225732807 2008-07-15T03:33:27Z Deltabeignet 195366 /* Accessories */ a minor edit indeed {{Unreferenced|date=August 2006}} {{Original research|date=November 2007}} '''Black tie''' is a [[dress code]] for semi-formal evening events. For a man, black tie stipulates a '''dinner jacket''' ('''[[tuxedo (clothing)|tuxedo]]''' in Canada and the U.S.). Currently, black tie is worn to many types of social functions; a woman's corresponding evening dress ranges from a conservative [[cocktail dress]] to the long [[evening gown]] determined per current fashion, local custom, and the occasion's time. ==The elements of black tie== [[Image:Mulroney reagan.jpg|thumb|150px|right|[[U.S. President]] [[Ronald Reagan]] and [[Canadian Prime Minister]] [[Brian Mulroney]] in dinner jackets.]] Compared with the strictures of [[white tie]], the sartorial allowances for a black-tie ensemble are considerable. The traditional components are: * Short or medium jacket (technically a tailless coat) with grosgrain or satin facings * [[Trousers]] with silk braids matching the lapels * A black [[cummerbund]] or a low-cut [[waistcoat]] * A white [[dress shirt]] with either a marcella, stiff, or pleated front * A black silk [[bowtie|bow tie]] * Black dress [[sock]]s, usually silk * Black shoes in [[patent leather|patent]] or highly polished leather, or patent leather [[court shoe|pumps]] ===Jacket=== The typical black-tie jacket is single-breasted, ventless, and black or midnight-blue, usually wool or a wool-mohair blend. Double breasted models are less common but perfectly acceptable. The lapels may be faced with silk in either a grosgrain or a satin weave. Traditionally there are two lapel options, the shawl collar, derived from the smoking jacket, and the peak lapel, from the tailcoat. The former is the older, while the latter is considered the more formal.[http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic_Components/Jacket.htm] Both styles can be single- or double-breasted. A third lapel style, the notched lapel, has only recently gained popularity, and has been accepted by some as "a legitimate ... less formal alternative"[http://www.blacktieguide.com/Contemporary/Jacket.htm], although, despite some precedent, it is disdained by purists for its [[lounge suit]] derivation. The traditional single-breasted jacket has a one-button closure. Two-button variants are sometimes seen, but jackets incorporating more buttons are fashion fads. (Also see: [[smoking jacket]]) Black was known to take on a green hue in early artificial lights, hence [[midnight blue]] was introduced by the Prince of Wales, and remains the only acceptable alternative colour. The white dinner jacket is often worn in warm climates. The American colour exceptions are its use in the high-school "[[prom]]", and concert conductors, i.e., the Last Night. In the U.S. and Canada a white dinner jacket is ''traditionally'' worn only from [[Memorial Day]] in the spring to [[Labor Day]]. (This rule applies also to white summer clothes, including shoes and suits.) It is poor manners for a man to remove his jacket during a black-tie social event, but when hot weather and humidity dictate, the [[Social rank|rank]]ing man (of the [[royal family]], the [[Guest of honor|guest of honour]]) may give men permission by noticeably taking off his jacket. In anticipated hot weather [[Red Sea rig]] is specified in the invitation, although this dress is esoteric in civilian circles, and is particular to certain communities. ===Trousers=== Dinner suit trousers have no turn-ups (cuffs) or belt loops. The outer seams are usually decorated with a single silk braid matching the lapel facing. Customarily, braces (suspenders) hold up the trousers; they are hidden by the waistcoat (if worn) or by the coat. The trousers traditionally feature a pleated front, flat-front trousers being a modern innovation. ===Waistcoat or Cummerbund=== The waist is dressed in either a waistcoat (vest) or a [[cummerbund]] when wearing a single-breasted coat. The waistcoat should be low-cut; traditional models (three-button if single-breasted) can be backless, and have shawl lapels. The cummerbund (derived from military dress uniform in British India) is worn with its pleats facing up, and is of the same cloth as the bow tie and lapels. White waistcoats in summer are a rare alternative.[http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic_Components/Alternatives.htm#white_waistcoat] ===Shirt=== The shirt is conventionally white or off-white (cotton, linen, silk). Its front is either marcella (piqué cotton), soft pleats with a placket covering the buttons, or more rarely a stiff front (as with white tie). Before World War II, stiff shirts with separate wing collars abounded. Today, semi-stiff shirts with attached wing collars are more common in the U.S.; a shirt with a fold-down collar is more normal in the UK. The original and most formal version of the dress shirt fastens with matching [[shirt stud]]s and cuff links. One can also wear a buttoned shirt with either a fly-front [[placket]]; if the buttons are visible (very informal) they should be mother-of-pearl. Soft shirts have [[French cuff]]s; stiff shirts (as in white tie) have single cuffs. ===Bow Tie=== The silk bow tie can be woven in [[barathea]], faille, grosgrain, or satin and is knotted by hand. Its shape can be butterfly (tall), batwing (thin), or semi-butterfly (intermediate; this style is most common). It is considered poor form and ''déclassé'' by some to wear a commercially pre-knotted clip-on or hook fastened bow tie, especially when the clips or fastener shows. ===Footwear=== Traditionally, the most formal shoes are patent-leather opera pumps (court shoes) decorated with a grosgrain bow, as worn with white tie. A popular, formal alternative is the black leather lace-up [[Oxford shoe]], in [[patent leather]] or [[calfskin]], with a rounded plain toe.[http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic_Components/Footwear.htm] Too informal for black tie are shoes with open lacing, such as derbies ("bluchers" in the U.S.). Rare alternatives include the black button boot (primarily of only historical interest) and the monogrammed slipper to be worn only at home. Hosiery should be black, knee-high silk socks. ===Accessories=== '''Handkerchief and Boutonniere:''' A white handkerchief in linen (silk and cotton are modern alternatives) and/or a [[boutonniere]] (a blue [[cornflower]], red or white [[Dianthus_caryophyllus|carnation]], or a [[Rose|rosebud]].) may be worn on the coat. '''Outerwear:''' In cold weather a Chesterfield or solid-coloured overcoat, grey gloves, and a white silk scarf are worn. Traditionally, an Inverness coat was also popular. '''Hat:''' The standard hat is a black (or midnight blue) [[homburg (hat)|homburg]]; in summer, a straw boater is optional. Top hats may only be worn with [[white tie]] and [[morning dress]]. '''Timepiece:''' If worn, a wristwatch should be slender, plain, and elegant; alternatively, a pocket watch may be worn on the waistcoat. Traditionally, however, visible timepieces are not worn with formal evening dress, because timekeeping is not considered a priority. '''Decorations and orders:''' Military, civil, and organisational [[state decoration|decorations]] usually worn only to formal events of State or other sovereign organisation. Miniature [[Order (decoration)|orders]] and awards are typically worn on the left breast or left lapel of the jacket, and neck badges, breast stars, and sashes are worn according to country-specific or organisational regulations. ==Black-Tie Social Occasions== Black tie is worn to private and public dinners, dances, and parties. At the formal end of the social spectrum, it replaced [[white tie]] where it once was ''de rigueur'' dress (e.g. for [[Conducting|orchestra conductor]]s). Black tie is evening dress, worn only after six o'clock in the evening, or after sundown during winter months. Black tie's daytime equivalent is the [[stroller (style)|stroller]]. ==Black Tie in public perception== * Given the nature of black tie social dress, the dinner jacket is considered exclusive; ownership is a statement of caste. * Some deride the dinner jacket as "penguin suit", denoting conformism. ==Corresponding forms of dress== ===Mess dress=== In dining out formally, the [[armed forces]] [[officer (armed forces)|officer]] and [[non-commissioned officer]] normally wears a [[mess dress|mess uniform]] equivalent to the civilian black tie and evening dress. Stylistically, the mess uniform varies according to the wearer's regiment or corps, but usually comprises a short Eton-style coat reaching to the waist. Some include white shirts, black bow ties, and low-cut waistcoats, while others feature high collars that fasten around the neck and corresponding high-gorge waistcoats. Usually, mess uniforms are brightly-coloured (in the [[British Army]] scarlet is most common) and ornamented with gold and lace and gilt buttons, all corresponding to the colours of the regiment or corps of the wearer. [[Image:David McLeod.JPG|right|thumb|110px|Formal black tie Highland regalia, [[kilt]] and Prince Charlie jacket.]] In the [[Royal Navy]] there is a distinction between "mess dress", which is worn at white tie events, and "mess undress", which is worn at black tie events. Both are worn with a black bow tie, however mess dress is worn with a white waistcoat instead of the usual colour, and may be worn with a stiff shirt and wing collar. The stiff shirt and wing collar were abolished for mess undress in the 1960s, and were made optional for mess dress in the 1990s. ===Red Sea rig=== In tropical areas, primarily in Western diplomatic and expatriate communities, the jacket and waistcoat are sometimes omitted and a [[cummerbund]] substituted. This form of black tie is known as [[Red Sea rig]]. ===West Coast Black Tie=== ''West Coast Black Tie'' is an American formal social occasion where a wide variety of formal evening dress colours and suit styles is acceptable. Likely originating in the Hollywood movie business, it currently is used broadly throughout California to accommodate the personal whims of the wearer. Variations include [[mandarin collar]]s, [[Nehru jacket]]s, silver or gold neckties, open collars, and other items which may be considered un-traditional, declassé, and faddish. In this style of evening dress, besides the bow tie, the four-in-hand-knotted long necktie is common evening wear.{{Fact|date=November 2007}} ===Scottish Highland dress=== Scottish Highland dress is often worn to black- and white tie occasions, especially at Scottish reels and [[céilidh]]s; the black tie version is more common, even at white tie occasions. Traditionally, black tie Scots Highland dress comprises: * Black [[Doublet|jacket]] — Prince Charlie, Duke of Montrose, Sheriffmuir, Argyll, Regulation [[Doublet]], and Brian Boru are suitable (a black or red mess jacket is also an option) * Black waistcoat * [[Kilt]] * White shirt * Black bow tie * Black [[Ghillie brogues]] or black dress shoes * Kilt hose (monochrome, diced, tartan) * Flashes * [[Sporran|Dress sporran]] * [[Sgian Dubh|Skean dubh]] (optional) * [[Dirk]] (optional) Traditional black tie Lowland dress comprises: black tie variant of the normal black tie, with tartan [[trews]] worn with a normal dinner jacket or a Prince Charlie jacket; trews are often worn in summer and warm climes. The white tie equivalent is a white bow tie or a lace [[Jabot (neckwear)|jabot]] over a collarless shirt. Regulation Doublets, Prince Charlie, Duke of Montrose, Sheriffmuir, and Argyll jackets are suitable. ==See also== *[[Clothing]] *[[Formal wear]] and [[Semi-formal]] *[[White tie]] *[[Red Sea rig]] *[[Morning dress]] *[[Mess dress (Mess kit)]] ==External links== * [http://www.blacktieguide.com The Black Tie Guide] provides extensive background and references for most topics in this article * [http://www.emilypost.com/everyday/attire.htm The Emily Post Institute] provides a breakdown of traditional categories of progressing formality in dress for men & women. {{Clothing}} [[Category:Formalwear]] [[da:Smoking]] [[de:Smoking]] [[es:Esmoquin]] [[eo:Smokingo]] [[fr:Smoking (vêtement)]] [[it:Smoking]] [[nl:Smoking]] [[ja:タキシード]] [[no:Smoking]] [[pl:Smoking]] [[pt:Smoking]] [[ru:Смокинг]] [[simple:Black tie]] [[fi:Smokki]] [[sv:Smoking]]