Derbent 489496 219990072 2008-06-17T19:54:45Z Caiaffa 905389 Disambig Armenian {{Infobox World Heritage Site | WHS = Citadel, Ancient City and Fortress Buildings of Derbent | Image = [[Image:Derbent wall.jpg|250px|Wall of the Derbent citadel&nbsp;— the only Sassanid fortification in existence.]] | State Party = [[Image:Flag of Russia.svg|22px]] [[Russian Federation]] | Type = Cultural | Criteria = iii, iv | ID = 1070 | Region = [[List of World Heritage Sites in Europe|Europe and North America]] | Year = 2003 | Session = 27th | Link = http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1070 }} '''Derbent''' ({{lang-ru|Дербе́нт}}; [[Azerbaijani language|Azeri]]: ''Dərbənd''; [[Lezgian language|Lezgian]]: Дербент; [[Avar language|Avar]]: ''Дербенд''; [[Persian language|Persian]]: دربند, ''Darband''<ref>Its etymology derives from the Persian ''Darband'' ("closed gate"); it was known to the Arabs as ''Bāb al Abwab'' ("Gate of Gates") and to the Turks as ''Demirkapı'' ("Iron Gate"). </ref>) is a [[types of settlements in Russia|city]] in the [[Dagestan|Republic of Dagestan]], [[Russia]]. It is the southernmost city in Russia, and it is the second most important city of Dagestan. Population: 101,031 ([[Russian Census (2002)|2002 Census]]); 78,371 ([[Soviet Census (1989)|1989 Census]]). The [[Azeris in Russia|Azeris]] are the main ethnic group, followed by [[Lezgins]] and [[Tabasaran people|Tabasarans]]. Often identified with the legendary [[Gates of Alexander]], Derbent claims to be the oldest city in the Russian Federation. Since antiquity the value of the area as the gate to the Caucasus has been understood and Derbent has archaeological structures over 5,000 years old. As a result of this geographic particularity the city developed between two walls, stretching from the mountains to the sea. These fortifications were continuously employed for a millennium and a half, longer than any other extant fortress in the world. Over the years different nations gave the city different names, but all connected to the word 'gate'. ==Geography== The modern city is built near the western shores of the [[Caspian Sea]], south of the [[Rubas River]], on the slopes of the [[Tabasaran mountains]] (part of the Bigger [[Caucasus mountains|Caucasus]] range). Derbent is well served by transportation, with its own harbour, a railway going south to [[Baku]], and the Baku to [[Rostov-on-Don]] road. To the north of the town is the monument of the Kirk-lar, or forty heroes, who fell defending Dagestan against the Arabs in 728. To the south lies the seaward extremity of the [[Caucasian wall]] (fifty metres long), otherwise known as [[Alexander's Wall]], blocking the narrow pass of the Iron Gate or [[Caspian Gates]] (''Portae Athanae'' or ''Portae Caspiae''). This, when entire, had a height of 29&nbsp;ft (9&nbsp;m) and a thickness of about 10&nbsp;ft (3&nbsp;m), and with its iron gates and numerous watch-towers formed a valuable defence of the Persian frontier. ==History== [[Image:Derband.jpg|thumb|left|250px|View of the city from Naryn-Kala, 1910s]] Derbent has a unique strategic location in the Caucasus: the city is situated on a thin strip of land (three kilometres) between the Caspian Sea and the Caucasus mountains. Historically, this position allowed the rulers of Derbent to control land traffic between south-eastern [[Europe]] and the [[Middle East]]. The first intensive settlement in the Derbent area dates from the [[8th century BCE]]; the site was intermittently controlled by the Persian monarchs, starting from the 6th century BCE. Until the 4th century&nbsp;CE it was part of [[Caucasian Albania]], and is traditionally identified with '''Albana''', the capital. The modern name is a [[Persian language|Persian]] word (دربند ''Darband'') meaning "closed gates", which came into use in the end of the 5th or the beginning of the 6th century AD, when the city was refounded by [[Kavadh I of Persia|Kavadh I]] of the [[Sassanid]] dynasty of [[Persian Empire|Persia]]. The twenty-metre-high walls with thirty north-looking towers are believed to belong to the time of Kavadh's son, [[Khosrau I of Persia]]. The [[Armenia]]n chronicler [[Movses Kagankatvatsi]] wrote about "the wondrous walls, for whose construction the Persian kings exhausted our country, recruiting architects and collecting building materials with a view of constructing a great edifice stretching between the Caucasus Mountains and the Great Eastern Sea". Derbent became a strong military outpost and harbour of the [[Sassanid empire]]. During the 5th and 6th centuries Derbent becomes also an important centre for spreading the [[Christianity|Christian]] faith in the Caucasus. Movses Kagankatvatsi left a graphic description of the [[Third Perso-Turkic War|sack of Derbent]] by the hordes of [[Tong Yabghu]] of the [[Western Turkic Khaganate]] in 627. His successor, [[Buri-sad]], proved unable to consolidate Tong Yabghu's conquests, and the city was retaken by the Persians. In 654 Derbent was captured by the Arabs, who transformed it in an important administrative centre and introduced [[Islam]] to the area. Because of its strategic position on the northern branch of the [[Silk Route]], the fortress was contested by the [[Khazars]] in the course of the [[Khazar-Arab Wars]]. [[Image:Derbent winter.jpg|thumb|left|275px|Sassanian fortress in Derbent.]] The recent excavations on the eastern side of the Caspian Sea opposite to Derbent, have revealed the eastern counterpart to the wall and fortifications of the city in the [[Great Wall of Gorgan]]. Similar [[Sasanian]] defensive fortifications--massive forts, garrison towns, long walls--are seen on the eastern shores of the Caspian extending literally into the sea as they are witness emerging from the rising waters of the Caspian in the west at Derbent. The Caliph [[Harun al-Rashid]] spent time living in Derbent, and brought it into great repute as a seat of the arts and commerce. According to Arab historians, Derbent, with population exceeding 50,000, was the largest city of the 9th-century Caucasus. In the 10th century, with the collapse of the Arab Caliphate, Derbent became the capital of an emirate. This emirate often fought losing wars with the neighboring Christian state of [[Sarir]], allowing Sarir to occasionally manipulate Derbent politics. Despite that, the emirate outlived its rival and continued to flourish at the time of the [[Mongol]] invasion in 1239. In the 14th century Derbent was occupied by [[Tamerlane]]'s armies. In 1437 it fell under the control of the [[Shirvanshahs]] of [[Persia]]. During the 16th century Derbent was the arena for wars between [[Turkey]] and Persia ruled by the Persian [[Safavid]] dynasty. By the early 17th century the Safavid Shah [[Abbas I of Safavid|Abbas I]] inflicted a serious defeat on the Turks and recovered Derbent, which had been a part of [[Persia]] for centuries previous. By the 1735 Ganja treaty Derbent fell within the [[Persia]]n state. In 1722 during the [[Russo-Persian War, 1722–1723|Russo-Persian War]], [[Peter I of Russia|Peter the Great]] of [[Russia]] wrested the town from the Persians, but in 1736 the supremacy of [[Nadir Shah]] was again recognized. In 1747 Derbent became the capital of the khanate of the same name. During the [[Persian Expedition of 1796]] it was stormed by Russian forces under [[Valerian Zubov]]. As a consequence of the [[Treaty of Gulistan]] of 1813&mdash;between Russian and Persia&mdash;Derbent became part of the [[Russian Empire]]. [[Image:Derbent summer.jpg|thumb|275px|The Caspian Gates.]] A large portion of the walls and several watchtowers have been preserved in reasonable shape till our days. The walls, reaching to the sea, date from the 6th century, [[Sassanid dynasty]] period. The city has a well preserved citadel (Narin-kala), comprising an area of 45,000&nbsp;m², enclosed by strong walls. Historical attractions include the baths, the cisterns, the old cemeteries, the caravanserai, the 18th century Khan's mausoleum, as well as several mosques. The oldest mosque is the Juma Mosque, built over a 6th century Christian basilica; it has a 15th century madrassa. Other shrines include the 17th century Kyrhlyar mosque, the Bala mosque and the 18th century Chertebe mosque. ==Economy and culture== The city is home to machine building, food, textile, fishing and fishery supplies, construction materials and wood industries. It is the production centre of Russian [[brandy]]. The education infrastructure is quite good; there is a university as well as several technical schools. On the cultural front, there is a Lezgin drama theatre (S. Stalsky theatre). About two kilometres from the city is the vacation colony of ''Chayka'' (Seagull). Derbent being in practice a huge museum and with magnificent mountains and shore nearby, a great potential for development of the tourism industry exists, further increased by [[UNESCO]]'s classification of the Citadel, Ancient City and Fortress as a [[World Heritage Site]] in 2003; however, instability in the region has not allowed further development. <gallery> Image:Coat of Arms of Derbent (Dagestan) (1843).png|Coat of arms of Derbent (1843). Image:Derbent gate.jpg|A gate in the old city of Derbent. Image:derbent gate2.jpg|A gate of the citadel. Image:Derbent sea.jpg|View on the Caspian Sea. </gallery> ==Notes== {{reflist}} ==References== *{{1911}} *''Some text used with permission from [http://www.travel-images.com www.travel-images.com]. The original text can be found [http://www.travel-images.com/azerb.html here].'' ==External links== {{commons|Derbent}} *[http://www.derbent.ru/photo/thumbnails.php?album=5&page=2 Photographs] *[http://www.derbent.ru/photo/displayimage.php?album=6&pos=10 Photographs] *[http://www.towns.ru/towns/derbent_en.html History and attractions of Derbent] {{Cities and towns in Dagestan}} {{World Heritage Sites in Russia}} {{coor title dm|42|04|N|48|17|E|type:city|region:RU}} [[Category:Archaeological sites in Russia]] [[Category:Coastal cities]] [[Category:Forts in Russia]] [[Category:Sassanid castles]] [[Category:Sassanid dynasty]] [[Category:Caucasus]] [[Category:World Heritage Sites in Russia]] [[Category:Caspian Sea]] [[Category:Wine regions of Russia]] [[af:Derbent]] [[ar:ديربينت]] [[av:Дербенд]] [[be:Горад Дзербент]] [[cv:Дербент]] [[da:Derbent]] [[de:Derbent]] [[et:Derbent]] [[eo:Derbent]] [[fa:دربند (روسیه)]] [[fr:Derbent]] [[ko:데르벤트]] [[hr:Derbent]] [[id:Derbent]] [[os:Дербент]] [[it:Derbent]] [[he:דרבנט]] [[ka:დერბენტი]] [[csb:Derbent]] [[lbe:Дaрбaнт]] [[lt:Derbentas]] [[hu:Derbent]] [[nl:Derbent]] [[no:Derbent]] [[pl:Derbent (Rosja)]] [[ro:Derbent]] [[ru:Дербент]] [[sk:Derbent]] [[fi:Derbent]] [[sv:Derbent]] [[vi:Derbent]] [[tr:Derbent, Dağıstan]] [[zh:傑爾賓特]]