Famagusta 145296 222161347 2008-06-27T21:18:02Z El Greco 1876487 [[WP:UNDO|Undid]] revision 222070167 by [[Special:Contributions/Galina Ro|Galina Ro]] ([[User talk:Galina Ro|talk]]) spam link {{refimprove|article|date=April 2007}} :''"Magusa" redirects here. For the [[moth]] [[genus]], see ''[[Magusa (moth)]].<!-- leave despite redlink to ensure proper article title --> {{Infobox Settlement |official_name = Famagusta (Ammochostos, Gazimağusa) |image_skyline = Camii 00.jpg|1px |image_flag = |subdivision_type = [[Districts of Cyprus|District]] |subdivision_name = [[Famagusta]] |TotalArea_sq_mi = |area_total = |population_as_of = [[30 April]] [[2006]] SPO census |population_total = 35,453 |population_footnotes = <REF>Magusa.org, op.cit., [http://www.magusa.org/English/population.htm "Table-1: Population of Famagusta"], [[as of April 2006]]</REF> |timezone = [[Eastern European Time|EET]] |utc_offset = +2 }} '''Famagusta''' ([[Greek language|Greek]]: '''Ammochostos''' (Αμμόχωστος); [[Turkish language|Turkish]]: '''Gazimağusa''' or Mağusa) is a city on the east coast of [[Cyprus]] and is capital of the [[Famagusta District]]. It is located in a bay between Capes Greco and Eloea, east of [[Nicosia District|Nicosia]], and possesses the deepest harbour in the island. Since the [[1974]] [[Turkish invasion of Cyprus|Turkish invasion]] the city has resided in the ''[[de facto]]'' [[Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus]] (recognised only by [[Turkey]]). The old tourist quarter of [[Varosha (Famagusta)|Varosha]] is abandoned pending a settlement of the Cyprus dispute. ==Name== In [[classical antiquity|antiquity]], the town was known as '''Arsinoe''' (Greek: {{polytonic|Ἀρσινόη}}), after [[Arsinoe II of Egypt]], and was mentioned by that name by [[Strabo]]. It was also called '''Ammokhostos''' (meaning "hidden in sand") and it is still known by that name in Greek today. This name developed into the ''Famagusta'' used in Western European languages and the Turkish name, ''Mağusa''. In full, its Turkish name is Gazi-Mağusa ([[Ghazw|Gazi]] is a Turkish prefix meaning ''veteran'', and was awarded officially after [[1974]]; compare [[Gaziantep]].). ==History== Founded in [[300 BC]] on the old settlement of Arsinoe, Famagusta remained a small fishing village for a long period of time. Later, as a result of the gradual evacuation of Salamis, it developed into a small port. ===Medieval Famagusta, 1192-1571=== [[Image:Othello tower.jpg|thumb|270px|[[Othello]]'s tower in Famagusta.]] The turning point for Famagusta was [[1192]] with the onset of [[Lusignan]] rule. It was during this period that Famagusta developed as a fully-fledged town. It increased in importance to the Eastern Mediterranean due to its natural harbour and the walls that protected its inner town. Its population began to increase. This development accelerated in the 13th century as the town became a centre of commerce for both the East and West. An influx of [[Christian]] [[refugees]] fleeing the downfall of [[Acre, Israel|Acre]] ([[1291]]) in [[Palestine]] transformed it from a tiny village into one of the richest cities in Christendom. In [[1372]] the port was seized by [[Genoa]] and in [[1489]] by [[Republic of Venice|Venice]]. This commercial activity turned Famagusta into a place where merchants and ship owners led lives of luxury. The belief that people's wealth could be measured by the churches they built inspired these merchants to have churches built in varying styles. These churches, which still exist, were the reason Famagusta came to be known as "the district of churches". The development of the town focused on the social lives of the wealthy people and was centred upon the Lusignan palace, the Cathedral, the Square and the harbour. ===Ottoman Famagusta, 1571–1878=== In [[1570]]-[[1571]], Famagusta was the last stronghold in Cyprus to hold out against the Turks under [[Lala Kara Mustafa Pasha|Mustafa Pasha]]. It resisted a siege of thirteen months and a terrible bombardment, until at last the commander, [[Marco Antonio Bragadin]] was flayed alive, his lieutenant Tiepolo was hanged, since Bragadino massacred the Turkish prisoners. [http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special%3ABooksources&isbn=0688080936] [[Lord Kinross]], in his book, ''[http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special%3ABooksources&isbn=0688080936 The Ottoman Centuries]'', describes the situation before the siege as follows: :"The [[Republic of Venice|Venetians]] had for some time neglected this far eastern outpost of their [[Mediterranean]] dominions, and its population had greatly declined. The bulk of it was composed of [[Greek Orthodox]] peasants who were enslaved and oppressed by the [[Frankish]] ruling class, and it was estimated that there were some fifty thousand [[serfs]] who would be ready to join the [[Ottoman Empire|Turks]]. [[Selim II|Sultan Selim (II)]] in a [[firman (decree)|firman]], or decree, now instructed his neighbouring [[sanjak bey]] to do his utmost to win the hearts of the masses, adding a solemn promise that in the event of the island's capture the population would not be molested and their property would be respected. Such was a formula, here strictly observed, which had for long preceded acts of [[Ottoman Empire|Turkish]] expansion." He describes the situation of the island after fall/conquest of Famagusta as follows: :"Venice was to cede the island to the Sultan two years later in a peace treaty which allowed for compensation sufficient to cover the cost of its conquest. Its subsequent administration was enlighted enough, following the standard [[Ottoman Empire|Ottoman]] practice at this time in conquered territories. The former privileges of the [[Greek Orthodox Church]] were revived at the expense of the [[Latin Catholics]], and its property restored to it. The [[Latin]] system of [[serfdom]] was abolished. The land which had formerly belonged to the [[Venice|Venetian]] nobility was transferred to the [[Ottoman state]]. The local inhabitants were assisted by the development of economic and financial resources. Large numbers of immigrants were brought from central [[Anatolia]], with their cattle and farming implements, to settle in the empty islands." At last, after the great calamity which had reduced the island to misery, somehow or other the poverty-stricken inhabitants began little by little to address themselves again to the culture of the soil, to some small commerce with strangers, and to those few arts which still survived in the he towns. At the very beginning the dues and outgoings did not press so very had on the rajah, because the [[Porte]] knew how the country had been impoverished by the war: and the [[Pashas]] sent to govern it were to some extent controlled by the Porte, lest their harshness should drive the rajah to leave the island, or at least to revolt, for which his degraded condition would be an excuse. So that after fifteen or twenty years the Christians redeemed nearly all the monasteries from those who had seized them, and much of the church lands as well. Churchmen of position left money for masses for the repose of their souls, or bestowed it by way of gifts. Changes in social and cultural life had a major effect on the architectural and physical environment. In order to adjust to the socio- economic and cultural traditions of the new inhabitants, some changes were made to existing buildings. Only the main cathedral was turned into a mosque ([[Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque]]), and the bazaar and market place were developed. Meanwhile a theological school, baths and fountains were built to fulfill basic daily needs. With the importation of dead end streets from Ottoman culture, the existing organic town structure was enriched and a communal spirit began to assert itself. The few two-storey houses inhabited by the limited number of wealthy people balanced harmoniously with the more common one-storey houses. ===British rule, 1878-1960=== In the British period, the port regained significance. The enlargement of the town outside the city walls in the Ottoman period accelerated. In this period, the Turkish population generally settled in the inner town while the Greek population settled in lower and upper [[Varosha (Famagusta)|Varosha]]. In tune with their colonial policies, the British set up an administrative base between the Turkish and Greek quarters rather than following the convention of establishing a base in the inner town. As a result, the enlargement of the town was increasingly centred around the Varosha district. Towards the end of the British period, in parallel with socio-economic developments, and in order to meet the changing needs of the population, new residential districts were built, incorporating new housing, commercial, touristic and recreational areas. Varosha was developed in large part as a tourist resort. In this period, the town underwent a change reflecting the then current colonial practices. The influence of British architecture was particularly apparent in the form, the details and the materials used. The British, who believed in getting close to communities under their rule by using local materials and details, employed the same practice in Famagusta. The [[Cyprus Government Railway]], with the head offices located in Famagusta, is said to have transformed Famagusta from an old Turkish town into a modern harbour city of the Levant. The city was also the site for one of the two British internment camps for nearly 50.000 [[Jew]]ish survivors of the [[Holocaust]] trying to emigrate to the [[British Mandate of Palestine]]. The other camp was located at Xylophaghou (see [[Jews in British camps on Cyprus]]). ===After Independence, 1960-1974=== From independence in [[1960]] to the [[Turkish invasion of Cyprus|Turkish invasion]] of [[1974]], Famagusta flourished both culturally and economically. The town developed toward the south west of Varosha as a tourist center. In the late 1960s Famagusta became one of the world's best-known entertainment and tourist centres. On the one hand there were structures conveying the characteristics of British colonialism, and, on the other hand, buildings reflecting trends in contemporary architecture. These modern buildings were mostly built in Varosha. Architecture in Famagusta in this period thus reflects a desire to merge history and modernism in the pursuit of progress. From its origins as a small port in the seventh century, Famagusta in the 1970s had become a town which now displayed the universal trends of the modern architectural movement. The contribution of Famagusta to the country’s economic activity by 1974 far exceeded its proportional dimensions within the country. Apart from possessing over 50% of the total accommodation of Cyprus it also offered the most substantial deep-water port handling (1973) 83% of the total general cargo and 49% of the total passenger traffic to and from the island. Whilst its population was only about 7% of the total of the country, Famagusta by 1974 accounted for over 10% of the total industrial employment and production of Cyprus, concentrating mainly on light industry compatible with its activity as a tourist resort and turning out high quality products ranging from food, beverages and tobacco to clothing, footwear, plastics, small machinery and transport equipment. As capital of the largest administrative district of the country, the town was the administrative, commercial, service and cultural centre of that district. The district of Famagusta before the 1974 invasion was characterized by a strong and balanced agricultural economy based on citrus fruits, potatoes, tobacco and wheat. Its agricultural success and the good communications between the town and the district ensured a balanced population spread and economic activity, which could be considered as a model for other developing areas. It was inevitable that the material progress described above would spawn and sustain the most fertile kind of cultural activity in the area, with Famagusta as its hub and centre. Painting, poetry, music and drama were finding expression in innumerable exhibitions, folk art festivals and plays enacted in the nearby-reconstructed ruins of the ancient Greek theatre of Salamis. There has not been an official census since 1960 but the population of the town in 1974 was estimated to be around 60,000 not counting about 12-15,000 persons commuting daily from the surrounding villages and suburbs to work in Famagusta. This population would swell during the peak summer tourist period to about 90-100,000 with the influx of tourists from numerous [[Europe|European countries]], mainly [[United Kingdom|Britain]], [[France]], [[Germany]] and [[Scandinavia]]. ===Since 1974=== During the second phase of the [[Turkish invasion of Cyprus]] of [[14 August]] [[1974]] (referred to by Turks as the Cyprus Peace Operation), the [[Mesaoria]] plain was overrun by Turkish tanks and in two days the [[Turkish Army]] was in Famagusta. The town had been completely evacuated by its Greek population who fled before the invading army and after the town had been bombed by the Turkish air force. [[Image:famagustaview.jpg|thumb|300px|Varosha viewed from Palm Beach Hotel [photo: RP 2005].]] [[Image:Famagusta-Varosha 2007.JPG|thumb|300px|Varosha area in 2006]] Unlike other parts of Turkish-controlled Cyprus, the Varosha section of Famagusta was sealed off by the Turkish army immediately after being captured and remains in that state today. The Greek Cypriots who had fled from Varosha were not allowed to return, and journalists are banned. It has been frozen in time with department stores still full of clothes, now many years out of fashion, and hotels empty but still fully equipped. Swedish journalist Jan-Olof Bengtsson, who visited the Swedish [[UN]] battalion in Famagusta port and saw the sealed-off part of the town from the battalion’s observation post, called the area a 'ghost town'. He wrote in ''Kvällsposten'' on [[September 24]], [[1977]]), :"The asphalt on the roads has cracked in the warm sun and along the sidewalks bushes are growing [...] Today, September 1977, the breakfast tables are still set, the laundry still hanging and the lamps still burning [...] Famagusta is a ghost-town." [[Turkish Cypriots]] continue to live north of Varosha, especially in the walled city. These sections of Famagusta remain vibrant with many fascinating buildings. The city is also home to the [[Eastern Mediterranean University]]. The current mayor-in-exile of Famagusta is [[Alexis Galanos]]. Oktay Kayalp heads the Turkish-controlled municipal administration. There have been suggestions from the Cypriot Government to transfer Varosha to UN administration, allow the return of the refugees, and open the harbour for use by both communities. However, the Turkish Cypriot side and Turkey rejected them. Varosha would have returned to Greek Cypriot control as part of the [[Annan Plan for Cyprus]] had the plan not been rejected by Greek Cypriot voters. The population of the city before 1974 was 39,000. Of this number, 26,500 were Greek Cypriots, 8,500 Turkish Cypriots and 4,000 from other ethnic groups. After the invasion, in 1975, the population was 8,500, all of them Turks. Today the population that lives in the town is 39,000. The number does not include the Greek Cypriot legal inhabitants but the Turkish Cypriots and settlers who live there. The town also played host to the [[football (soccer)|football]] clubs [[Anorthosis Famagusta FC|Anorthosis]], which has many trophies in Cyprus, and [[Nea Salamina Famagusta]]. Both teams used until 1974 the stadium of the town, the GSE Stadium (Gymnastic Club Evagoras Stadium) but after the abandonment of the city the teams moved to the town of [[Larnaca]]. Both teams have also volleyball sections. Anorthosis has the most trophies in volleyball. Salamina also was until 2003 the concecutive champion of Cyprus for more than 5 years. [[Dr. Derviş Eroğlu]], a Turkish Cypriot politician and [[George Vasiliou]], former [[President of Cyprus]] are from Famagusta. [[Derviş Zaim]], a Cypriot [[filmmaker]], whose first novel won the prestigious "Yunus Nadi" literary prize in Turkey, is also from the Famagusta. [[Chris Achilleos]], a famous British Cypriot painter and illustrator was born there as was Turkish Cypriot-American actor [[Hal Ozsan]] ( [[Dawson's Creek]] , [[Kyle XY]] (b. 1976.) [[Image:Famagusta.jpg|thumb|500px|Famagusta in 2002. Cranes remain where they were in 1974.]] Due to its relative isolation and neglect over the past 30 years despite being such a historically and culturally significant city, Famagusta was listed on the [[World Monuments Fund]]'s 2008 Watch List of the 100 Most Endangered Sites in the world. ==Sites of interest== Famagusta contains spectacular ruins, including a magnificent amphitheatre, Roman baths, a gymnasium and royal tombs. The mosaics are particularly beautiful. Just inland from Famagusta are the church and monastery dedicated to St. [[Barnabas]], the founder of the apostolic [[Cypriot Orthodox Church]] in [[45]] AD. Barnabas a Cypriot from Salamis who visited the island accompanied by [[Paul of Tarsus|St. Paul]] and [[Mark the Evangelist|St. Mark]] and was later martyred in Salamis in [[52]] AD. The church of St. Barnabas is preserved exactly as it was since abandoned in 1976. There is a collection of 18th century icons and the monastery cloisters now houses an archaeological museum. Famagusta harbour is dominated by a great citadel sometimes known as [[Othello]]'s Tower in reference to the (fictional) play by [[Shakespeare]]. It contains a splendid 14th century Gothic Hall. The Venetian Palace was used, after its destruction in 1571, during the Ottoman Empire as a prison, and among the prisoners was [[Namik Kemal]], the National poet of the [[Ottoman Empire]], who was held there between 1873 and 1876, after having been exiled to Cyprus by the [[Ottoman Dynasty|Sultan]]. ==Sister Cities== *[[Image:Flag of Turkey.svg|20px]] [[İzmir]] ([[Turkey]]), since 1994 (To Famagusta as a city in the TRNC) ==See also== {{commonscat}} *[[Salamis, Cyprus]] *[[Famagusta District]] *[[Turkish invasion of Cyprus]] *[[Cyprus dispute]] *[[Ghost town]] *[[United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus]] ==References== ;Sources consulted <!--ALPHABETICALLY--> *[http://www.cyprus.gov.cy/ Cyprus.gov.cy] (online). Republic of Cyprus government website. *Enlart, Camille (1899). ''L'art gothique et la Renaissance a Chypre''. Paris, pp. 251–255. *Kyprianos (1788). ''History of Cyprus''. Venice, p. 453 *[http://www.magusa.org/English/ Magusa.org (English)]. Official website of Famagusta. *[[William Smith (lexicographer)|Smith, William ]] (1854). ''[[Dictionary of Greek and Roman Geography]]''. s.v. Arsinoe ;Endnotes {{Reflist}} ==External links== *[http://www.ammochostos.org.cy/ Official Website of displaced Famagusta Municipality] *[http://www.magusa.org/English/ Official Website of Famagusta de facto Turkish Municipality ] *[http://www.cypnet.co.uk/ncyprus/city/famagusta/ Guide to The City of Famagusta] *[http://www.anorthosisfc.com/ Official Website of Anorthosis Famagusta F.C.] {{coor title dm|35|07|N|33|57|E|region:CY_type:city}} {{Municipalities of Cyprus}} [[Category:11th century BC establishments]] [[Category:Ancient Greek cities]] [[Category:Ancient Greek sites in Cyprus]] [[Category:Cities, towns and villages in Northern Cyprus]] [[Category:Coastal cities]] [[Category:Ghost towns in Europe]] [[de:Famagusta]] [[el:Αμμόχωστος]] [[es:Famagusta]] [[fr:Famagouste]] [[hr:Famagusta]] [[id:Famagusta]] [[it:Famagosta]] [[nl:Famagusta]] [[ja:ファマグスタ]] [[pl:Famagusta]] [[pt:Famagusta]] [[ru:Фамагуста]] [[fi:Famagusta]] [[sv:Famagusta]] [[tr:Gazimağusa]]