Flannan Isles 582467 225353042 2008-07-13T06:38:06Z Morrismaciver 536965 /* Wildlife */ {{Infobox Scottish island | |Map= |latitude=58.3 |longitude=-7.6 |GridReference=NA720460 |celtic name=Na h-Eileanan Flannach |norse name= |meaning of name=Flannan Isles |area=50 ha over more than a dozen islands |area rank= 0 |highest elevation=88&nbsp;m on Eilean Mòr |Population=0 |population rank= |main settlement= Flannan Isles Lighthouse is the only habitable structure |island group=[[Lewis and Harris]] |local authority=[[Na h-Eileanan Siar]] |references=<ref>2001 UK Census per [[List of islands of Scotland]]</ref><ref>Haswell-Smith, Hamish. (2004) The Scottish Islands. Edinburgh. Canongate.</ref> }} The '''Flannan Isles''' ([[Scottish Gaelic]]: ''Na h-Eileanan Flannach''<ref>Mac an Tàilleir, Iain, (2003) [http://www.scottish.parliament.uk/vli/language/gaelic/pdfs/placenamesF-J.pdf "Placenames F-J"] (pdf) Edinburgh. Pàrlamaid na h-Alba. Retrieved [[08 June]] [[2008]].</ref>, {{pronounced|nə helanən flˠ̪an̪ˠəx}}) are a small [[island group]] in the [[Outer Hebrides]] of [[Scotland]], lying approximately 32&nbsp;kilometres (20&nbsp;miles) west of the [[Lewis|Isle of Lewis]]. They may take their name from [[Saint Flannan|St Flannan]], the 7th century Irish preacher and [[abbot]].<ref name=Smith>Haswell-Smith, Hamish. (2004) ''The Scottish Islands''. Edinburgh. Canongate</ref> The islands have been devoid of permanent residents since the [[automation]] of the [[lighthouse]] in 1971.<ref name=Nicholson> Nicholson, Christopher. (1995) ''Rock Lighthouses of Britain: The End of an Era?'' Caithness. Whittles.</ref> They are the location of an enduring mystery which occurred there in December 1900 when all three lighthouse keepers vanished without trace.<ref name = Munro> Munro, R.W. (1979) ''Scottish Lighthouses''. Stornoway. Thule Press.</ref> ==Geography== The islands are split into three groups. The main cluster of rocks, which lie to the north-east, include the two principal islands of Eilean Mòr (English:Big Isle), and Eilean Taighe (House Isle). To the south lie Soray (Eastward Isle) and Sgeir Tomain, while the main western outcrops are Eilean a' Gobha (Isle of the Blacksmith), Roaireim (which has a natural rock arch) and Bròna Cleit (Sad Sunk Rock). The total land area amounts to approximately 50&nbsp;hectares (124&nbsp;acres) and the highest point is 88&nbsp;metres (288&nbsp;ft) above sea level on Eilean Mòr.<ref name=Smith/> [[Image:Flannan isles.jpg|left|thumb|290px|<Center>The Flannan or Seven Hunters Isles.<Ref name ="Harvie-Brown">Harvie-Brown, J. A. & Buckley, T. E. (1889), ''A Vertebrate Fauna of the Outer Hebrides.'' Pub. David Douglas, Edinburgh. Facing P. XXIV.</ref>]] The geology is comprised of a dark [[breccia]] of [[gabbros]] and [[dolerite]]s intruding [[Archaen]] [[gneiss]].<ref name=Smith/> In pre-historic times the area was covered by ice sheets which spread from Scotland out into the [[Atlantic Ocean]]. After the last retreat of the ice circa 20,000 years [[Before Present|BP]], sea levels were up to 122&nbsp;metres (400&nbsp;ft) lower than at present and it is likely that the existing islands were part of a much larger land mass, although still separated from the [[Outer Hebrides]] by many miles of open water. Steadily rising sea levels would then have reduced the land remaining above sea level to its present extent.<ref name=Murray>Murray, W.H. (1973) ''The Islands of Western Scotland.'' London. Eyre Methuen.</ref> There are two possible landing places to the east and west for yachts visiting Eilean Mòr, although this can be hazardous given the regular heavy swells.<ref name=Smith/> ==History== [[Image:The lighthouse on Eilean Mor.jpg|thumb|left|250px|The lighthouse on Eilean Mòr. The Chapel of St Flannan can be seen on the slope to the right of the lighthouse.]] As the name implies, Eilean Taighe hosts a ruined stone shelter. Eilean Mòr is home to the lighthouse and a ruined [[chapel]] dedicated to St Flannan, which the lighthouse keepers referred to as the 'dog kennel' because of its small size. These ruined [[bothies]] were collectively described by the Ancient Monuments Commission as The Bothies of the [[Chattan Confederation|Clan McPhail]]<ref name=NLB1>[http://www.nlb.org.uk/ourlights/history/flannan.htm "Flannan Isles Lighthouse "] Northern Lighthouse Board. Retrieved [[23 March]] [[2008]].</ref> or Bothain Chlann ‘ic Phaill.<ref name=Tait>[http://www.innsegall.co.uk/guide/outliers/out_flannan.htm "Western Isles Guide Book: Flannan Islands]. Charles Tait photographic Ltd. Retrieved [[23 March]] [[2008]].</ref> It is not entirely clear which St. Flannan the chapel honours. It is likely that he was either the 7th century Abbot of [[Killaloe]] in [[County Clare]] or alternatively the half brother of the 8th century [[St Ronan]] who gave his name to the nearby island of [[North Rona]]. There was also a certain Flann, son of an Abbot of [[Iona]] called Maol-duine who died in 890, and who may have loaned his name to these isolated isles.<ref name=Smith/> The [[archipelago]] is also known as 'The Seven Hunters', and in the Middle Ages they may also have been called the 'Seven Haley (Holy) Isles'.<ref>Munro, Sir Donald (1594) ''Description of the Western Isles of Scotland''.</ref> [[Martin Martin]] (1703) lists a number of unusual customs associated with regular pilgrimages to Eilean Mòr such as removing one's hat and making a [[sunwise]] turn when reaching the plateau.<ref>Martin, Martin (1703) ''[http://www.appins.org/martin.htm A Description of the Western Isles of Scotland including A Voyage to St. Kilda]''</ref> It is possible that the saint or his acolytes lived on Eilean Mòr and perhaps Eilean Taighe as well. However, it is unlikely that there were permanent residents on the islands once the [[Celtic Church]] fell into decline in the [[Hebrides]] (as a result of 9th century [[Viking]] invasions), until the construction of the lighthouse and its occupation very shortly before the dawn of the 20th century. ==Wildlife== {{main|Nature of the Outer Hebrides}} [[Image:Morus-bassanus Northern Gannet.jpg|thumb|right|Northern Gannet (Morus bassanus) in flight.]] The isles provide nesting for a population of [[seabird]]s, including [[Atlantic Puffin]]s, [[Northern Fulmar]]s, [[European Storm-petrel]]s, [[Leach's Petrel]]s, [[Common Shag]] and [[Black-legged Kittiwake]]s. There is a [[gannet]]ry on Roaireim.<ref name=Tait/> From the late [[Middle Ages]] on, Lewismen regularly raided these nests for eggs, birds and feathers. There is a population of [[Arctic Hare]]s, brought to the islands by the lighthouse keepers,<ref name=Murray/> and crofters from [[Bernera]] graze sheep on the most fertile islands.<ref name=Smith/> [[Minke]] and [[Pilot Whales]], as well as [[Risso’s dolphin|Risso's]] and other species of [[dolphin]] are commonly observed in the vicinity.<ref name=Tait/> The islands became a [[Site of Special Scientific Interest]] in December 1983.<ref>[http://www.snh.org.uk/pdfs/protect/sssi_02_03.pdf Scottish Natural Heritage list of SSSIs.] Retrieved [[2006-12-28]]</ref> ==Lighthouse== Designed by [[David Alan Stevenson]], the 23&nbsp;metre (75&nbsp;ft) tower was constructed for the [[Northern Lighthouse Board]] (NLB) between 1895 and 1899 and is located near the highest point on Eilean Mòr. Construction was undertaken by George Lawson of [[Rutherglen]] at a cost of £6,914 inclusive of the building of the landing places, stairs, railway tracks etc. All of the materials used had to be hauled up the 45&nbsp;metre (150&nbsp;ft) cliffs directly from supply boats, no trivial task in the ever-churning Atlantic. A further £3,526 was spent on the shore station at [[Breasclete]] on the Isle of Lewis.<ref name=NLB1/> It was first lit on 7 December 1899, by 1925 it was one of the first Scottish lights to receive communications from the shore by [[wireless telegraphy]]<ref name=Munro/> and then automated on 28 September 1971. A reinforced concrete [[helipad]] was constructed at the same time to enable maintenance visits in heavy weather. The light is produced by burning [[acetylene]] gas and has a range of 32&nbsp;kilometres (20&nbsp;miles). It is now monitored from the [[Butt of Lewis]]<ref name=Nicholson/> and the shore station has been converted into flats.<ref>Perrot, D. et al (1995) ''The Outer Hebrides Handbook and Guide.'' Machynlleth. Kittiwake.</ref> Other than its relative isolation it would be a relatively unremarkable light were it not for the events which took place only just over a year after it was commissioned. ==Mystery of 1900== <div style="float: right; margin: 0 0 1em 2em; width: 25em; text-align: right; font-size: 0.86em; line-height: normal;"> <div style="border: 1px solid #ccd2d9; background: #f0f6fa; text-align: left; padding: 0.5em 1em; text-align: center;"><!-- start of slate grey box --> <big>'''Flannan Isles Lighthouse'''</big> <table style="background: transparent; text-align: left; table-layout: auto; border-collapse: collapse; padding: 0; font-size: 100%;" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> <tr> <th style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top; text-align: left;">Location</th> <td style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top">Eilean Mòr<br> {{convert|20|mi|km}} west of [[Lewis]], [[Western Isles]],</br> [[Scotland]]</td> </tr> <tr> <th style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top; text-align: left;">Tower height</th> <td style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top">23&nbsp;m (75&nbsp;ft)</td> </tr> <tr> <th style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top; text-align: left;">Characteristics</th> <td style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top"> Two White Flashes every 30 seconds</br> </td> </tr> <tr> <th style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top; text-align: left;">Description</th> <td style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top">White circular tower</td> </tr> <tr> <th style="border-top: solid 3px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top; text-align: left;">Date established</th> <td style="border-top: solid 3px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top">1899</td> </tr> <tr> <th style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top; text-align: left;">Date of present tower</th> <td style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top">1899</td> </tr> <tr> <th style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top; text-align: left;">Date automated</th> <td style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top">1971</td> </tr> <tr> <th style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top; text-align: left;">Current use</th> <td style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top">Active aid to navigation</td> </tr> <tr> <th style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top; text-align: left;">Engineer</th> <td style="border-top: solid 1px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top">David Stevenson</td> </tr> <tr> <th style="border-top: solid 3px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top; text-align: left;">Open to the public</th> <td style="border-top: solid 3px #ccd2d9; padding: 0.4em 1em 0.4em 0; vertical-align: top">Grounds only. Landings by sea may be difficult.</td> </tr> </table></div><!-- end of slate grey box --> </div> ===Discovery=== The first hint of anything untoward on the Flannan Isles came on 15 December 1900. The steamer ''Archtor'' on passage from [[Philadelphia]] to [[Leith]] passed the islands in poor weather and noted that the light was not operational. This was reported on arrival at [[Oban]] although no immediate action seems to have been taken. The island lighthouse was manned by a three man team, with a rotating fourth man spending time on shore. The relief vessel ''Hesperus'' was unable to set out on a routine visit from [[Lewis]] planned for 20 December due to adverse weather and did not arrive until noon on [[Boxing Day]] (26 December). On arrival the crew and relief keeper found that the flagstaff was bare of its flag, none of the usual provision boxes had been left on the landing stage for re-stocking and, more ominously, none of the lighthouse keepers were there to welcome them ashore. Jim Harvie, captain of the ''Hesperus'', gave a strident blast on his whistle and set off a distress flare, but no reply was forthcoming. A boat was launched and Joseph Moore, the relief keeper, was put ashore alone. He found the entrance gate to the compound and main door both closed, the beds unmade and the clock stopped. Returning to the landing stage with this grim news he then went back up to the lighthouse with the ''Hesperus's'' second-mate and a seaman. A further search revealed that the lamps were cleaned and refilled. A set of [[oilskin]]s were found, suggesting that one of the keepers had left the lighthouse without them, which was surprising considering the severity of the weather. The only sign of anything amiss in the lighthouse was an overturned chair by the kitchen table. Of the keepers there was no sign, either inside the lighthouse or anywhere on the island. Moore and three volunteer seamen were left to attend the light and the ''Hesperus'' returned to the shore station at [[Breasclete]]. Captain Harvie sent a telegram to the [[Northern Lighthouse Board]] stating: <blockquote> "A dreadful accident has happened at the Flannans. The three keepers, Ducat, Marshall and the Occasional have disappeared from the Island. The clocks were stopped and other signs indicated that the accident must have happened about a week ago. Poor fellows must have been blown over the cliffs or drowned trying to rescue a crane or something like that."<ref name=Nicholson/><!-- Note to editors: The capital 'I' in Island' is in the original.--> </blockquote> The men remaining on the island scoured every corner for clues as to the fate of the keepers. At the east landing everything was intact, but the west landing provided considerable evidence of damage caused by recent storms. A box at 33&nbsp;metres (110&nbsp;ft) above sea level had been broken and its contents strewn about; iron railings were bent over, the iron railway by the path was wrenched out of its concrete, and a rock weighing over a ton had been displaced above that. On top of the cliff at over 60&nbsp;metres (200&nbsp;ft) above sea level [[turf]] had been ripped away over 10&nbsp;metres (30&nbsp;ft) from the cliff edge. However, the keepers had kept their log until 9 a.m. on [[15 December]] and this made it clear the damage had occurred before the writers' disappearance.<ref name=Nicholson/><ref name=Munro/> ===Speculations and misconceptions=== No bodies were ever found and the loneliness of the rocky islets may have lent itself to feverish imaginings. Theories abounded and resulted in ‘fascinated national speculation’.<ref name=Bath>Bathhurst, Bella. (2000) ''The Lighthouse Stevensons''. London. Flamingo.</ref> Some were simply elaborations on the truth. For example, the events were commemorated in [[Wilfrid Wilson Gibson|Wilfrid Wilson Gibson's]] 1912 ballad, ''[[Flannan Isle]]''.<ref name=Munro/> The poem refers to a half-eaten meal on the table, indicating that the keepers had been suddenly disturbed. <blockquote> :Yet, as we crowded through the door, :We only saw a table spread :For dinner, meat, and cheese and bread; :But, all untouched; and no-one there, :As though, when they sat down to eat, :Ere they could even taste, :Alarm had come, and they in haste :Had risen and left the bread and meat, :For at the table head a chair :Lay tumbled on the floor.<ref> Quotation from Nicholson (1995).</ref> </blockquote> However, Nicholson (1995) makes it clear that this does not square with Moore's recorded observations of the scene which states that: "The kitchen utensils were all very clean, which is a sign that it must be after dinner some time they left."<ref name=Nicholson/><ref>Smith (2004) nonetheless states: “A meal of cold meat, pickles and potatoes was untouched on the kitchen table.”</ref> Other rumours, such as that one keeper had murdered the other two and then thrown himself into the sea in a fit of remorse, that a sea serpent (or giant seabird) had carried the men away, that they had been abducted by foreign spies, or that they had met their fate through the malevolent presence of a boat filled with ghosts were less plausible. The baleful influence of the ‘Phantom of the Seven Hunters’ was widely suspected locally.<ref name=Nicholson/> ===Northern Lighthouse Board investigation=== [[Image:Northern Lighthouse Board Ensign of the United Kingdom.png|thumb|right|Northern Lighthouse Board Ensign]] On [[29 December]], Robert Muirhead, an NLB superintendent, arrived to conduct the official investigation into the incident. The explanation offered by Muirhead is more prosaic than the fanciful rumours suggested. He examined the clothing left behind in the lighthouse and concluded that James Ducat and Thomas Marshall had gone down to the landing stage, and that Donald McArthur (the 'Occasional') had left the lighthouse in heavy rain in his shirt sleeves. (Whoever left the light last and unattended was in breach of NLB rules).<ref name=Nicholson/> He also noted that some of the damage to the west landing was “difficult to believe unless actually seen”.<ref name=Munro/> <blockquote> "From evidence which I was able to procure I was satisfied that the men had been on duty up till dinner time on Saturday the 15 December, that they had gone down to secure a box in which the mooring ropes, landing ropes etc. were kept, and which was secured in a crevice in the rock about {{convert|110|ft|m|abbr=on}} above sea level, and that an extra large sea had rushed up the face of the rock, had gone above them, and coming down with immense force, had swept them completely away.”<ref>Munro (1979) ''op cit'' pages 170-1, although Nicholson (1995), Bathhurst (2000) and Smith (2004) quote the same report using somewhat different language: <small>"After a careful examination of the place.... I am of the opinion that the most likely explanation of the disappearance of the men is that they had all gone down on the afternoon of Saturday, 15 December to the proximity of the west landing to secure the box with the mooring ropes etc. and that an unexpectedly large roller had come up on the island, and that a large body of water going up higher than where they were and coming down upon them, swept them away with resistless force.”</small></ref><!-- Note to editors: The capital 'I' in Island' is in the original.--> </blockquote> Whether this explanation brought any comfort to the families is unknown. The deaths of Thomas Marshal, James Ducat (who left a widow and four children) and Donald McArthur (who left a widow and two children) cast a shadow over the lighthouse service for many years to come.<ref name=Munro/> ===Later theories and interpretations=== [[Image:Eilean a' Ghobha and Roareim.jpg|thumb|right|The westernmost of the Flannan Isles: Eilean a' Ghobha and Roareim with Brona Cleit in the distance.]] Nicholson (1995) offers an alternative idea for the demise of the keepers. The coastline of Eilean Mòr is deeply indented with narrow gullies called [[Geo (landscape)|geos]]. The west landing, which is situated in such a geo, terminates in a cave. In high seas or storms, water would rush into the cave and then explode out again with considerable force. Nicholson speculates that McArthur may have seen a series of large waves approaching the island, and knowing the likely danger to his colleagues, ran down to warn them, only to succumb himself as well.<ref>Smith (2004) suggests these events are "very rare”.</ref> This theory has the advantages of explaining the over-turned chair, and the set of oilskins remaining indoors,<ref name=Nicholson/> although not perhaps the closed door and gate.<ref name=Smith/> Smith (2004) attributes the origins of the theory to Walter Aldebert, a keeper on the Flannans from 1953-1957. Aldebert believed one man may have been washed into the sea, that his companion rushed back to the light for help but that both would-be rescuers were themselves washed away by a second [[freak wave]].<ref name=Smith/> The event remains a popular issue of contention among those who are interested in [[paranormal]] activity. Inevitably perhaps, modern imaginations speculate about [[Abduction phenomenon|abduction by aliens]].<ref name=Bath/> A fictional use of this idea is the basis for the [[Doctor Who]] episode ''[[Horror of Fang Rock]]''.<ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/h2g2/A1061335#back1 "The Mystery of Flannan Isle"] bbc.co.uk. Retrieved [[23 March]] [[2008]].</ref> The mystery was also the inspiration for the [[composer]] [[Peter Maxwell Davies]]'s modern [[chamber opera]] ''[[The Lighthouse (opera)|The Lighthouse]]'' (1979).<ref>[http://www.maxopus.com/biograph/overview.htm Peter Maxwell Davies: An Overview of his Works until 1996 by Paul Griffiths] Retrieved [[2006-11-25]]</ref> The British rock group [[Genesis (band)|Genesis]] wrote and recorded "The Mystery of Flannan Isle Lighthouse" in 1968 while working on their first album, but it was not released until 1998 in [[Genesis Archive 1967-75]].<ref>[http://music.yahoo.com/track/1082781 "The Mystery Of The Flannan Isle Lighthouse (Demo 1968)".] Yahoo.com. Retrieved [[8 July]] [[2008]].</ref> Angela J. Elliott wrote a novel about the disappearance of the lighthouse keepers. Published in 2005 it is called ''Some Strange Scent of Death'', after a line from Gibson's poem.<ref>Elliott, Angela J. (2005) ''Some Strange Scent of Death''. Whittles. ISBN 978-1904445-15-9.</ref> ==See also== * [[Outer Hebrides|The Outer Hebrides of Scotland]] * [[Wilfrid Wilson Gibson]] * [[Peter Maxwell Davies]] * [[Mary Celeste|Marie Celeste]] * [[Missing person]]s * [[List of people who have disappeared]] * [[Rogue wave]] ==References and footnotes== {{Reflist}} <!-- ---------------------------------------------------------- See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Footnotes for a discussion of different citation methods and how to generate footnotes using the <ref>, </ref> and <reference /> tags ----------------------------------------------------------- --> {{reflist}} ==External links== * [http://www.innsegall.co.uk/guide/outliers/out_flannan.htm Guide to the Flannan Isles] * [http://www.nlb.org.uk/ourlights/history/flannan.htm Northern Lighthouse Board information about Flannan Isles lighthouse] * [http://www.nlb.org.uk/historical/flannans.htm Northern Lighthouse Board information about the disappearance of the keepers] * [http://www.mikedash.com/investigations_eilean_about.htm The Vanishing Lighthousemen of Eilean Mór] Investigative paper based on primary sources {{Hebrides}} {{coord|58|17|N|07|35|W|display=title|region:GB_type:isle}} [[Category:Islands of the Outer Hebrides]] [[Category:Sites of Special Scientific Interest in Western Isles North]] [[Category:Lighthouses in Scotland]] [[Category:Paranormal places]] [[Category:Rogue wave incidents]] [[Category:Mysteries]] [[de:Flannan-Inseln]] [[fr:îles Flannan]] [[pl:Flannan]]