Hair coloring
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226170465
2008-07-17T03:44:25Z
Jee19
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[[Image:Haircoloring.jpg|thumb|A hairdresser colors a client's hair.]]
'''Hair coloring''' is [[dye]] used to color human [[hair]]. It is used for a variety of purposes; most commonly to return gray hair to its previous color, to change hair color to a shade regarded as more desirable, or to return hair to its original color after chemicals (e.g. hair dye) have discolored it.
==Types of hair color==
Hair coloring products are typically categorized based on the length of time they effect the colored hair. The four most common classifications are 'temporary', 'semi-permanent', 'demi-permanent' (sometimes called 'deposit only'), and permanent. Hair lightening products such as bleaches could be regarded as a sub-set of permanent hair coloring products, as their effects are permanent.
===Temporary hair color===
The pigment molecules in temporary hair color are large and, therefore, do not penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing.
Acid dyes are used to coat on the surface of hair, since acid dyes have a low affinity to hair, thus can be removed after a shampoo. The penetration and color strength of temporary hair color can usually be improved by applying a bleaching prior to the application of the hair color.
Temporary hair color is available in various product forms including rinses, shampoos, gels, sprays, and others. This type of hair color is typically used to give brighter, more vibrant shades or colors such as orange or red, that may be difficult to achieve with semi-permanent and permanent hair color. This phenomenon is because temporary hair colorants do not penetrate the hair shaft itself. Instead, these dyes remain [[wikt:adsorb|adsorbed]] (closely adherent) to the follicle and can be easily removed with a single shampooing. However, even temporary hair coloring agents can persist if the user's hair is excessively dry or damaged, conditions that allow for migration of the dye from the exterior to the interior of the follicle. While temporary hair color products hold a lesser market than semi-permanent and permanent agents, they have value in that they can be easily and quickly removed without bleaching or application of a different dye.
===Semipermanent hair color===
Formulated to deposit color on the hair shaft without lightening it. This formula has smaller molecules than those of temporary tinting formulas, and is therefore able to penetrate the hair shaft. Has no developer, may be used with heat for penetration. It also lasts longer than temporary hair color, keeping intact up to 8-14 shampoos. They are great for hair that is damaged and fragile. Semi hair color has no Ammonia.
==='Demi Permanent' hair color===
Companies like Compagnia Del Colore from Italy have found a way to use a permanent hair color for deposit only. This is done by mixing permanent hair color with low volume (usually a 7 volume developer) that blows off the ammonia from the permanent tube and deposits only into the hair shaft. A demi is a gentle permanent color used whenever you want to deposit color without lifting the natural pigment but with the deep penetration results of permanent hair color. Since they are gentle, they are perfect for tint-backs and colorpriming. They are also great for toning pre-lightened hair.
===Permanent Color===
All "permanent" haircolor products and lighteners contain both a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing ingredient as part of their [[ammonia]] or an ammonia substitute. The purpose of this is to:
* raise the [[cuticle]] of the hair fibre so the tint can penetrate,
* facilitate the formation of tints within the hair fibre,
* bring about the lightening action of [[peroxide]].
When the tint containing the alkalizing ingredient is combined with the developer (usually [[hydrogen peroxide]]), the peroxide becomes [[alkaline]] and diffuses through the hair fiber, entering the cortex, where the [[melanin]] is located. The lightening occurs when the alkaline peroxide breaks up the melanin and replaces it with new color.
Permanent Color is best choice for grey hair coverage. Has a oxidative dye that also uses ammonia and peroxide to lift & deposit the new color, going deep into the hair shaft. The use of ammonia opens the cuticle of the hair to penetrate the color pigments deep in the hair shaft.
====Hair lighteners and bleaches====
"Hair lightening," referred to as "bleaching" or "decolorizing," is a chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the [[hair]]. This process is central to both permanent hair color and hair lighteners.
==Application techniques==
Typically, hair dye is used in one of two ways:
# One color is applied to all hair on the head, to produce a uniform color effect, or
# Dye is applied to selected sections of the hair, to produce streaks or gradations of color.
The latter technique can be used to create many different effects, from subtle highlights acquired during a day at the beach, to more dramatic looks, such as bold, chunky highlights. The terms most commonly used to describe these techniques are:
* Highlighting, where sections of hair are treated with lighteners, usually to create blond streaks
* Lowlighting, where sections of hair are treated with darker hair dye
* Foils, where pieces of foil are used to section off the hair to be colored, this is especially nice when applying more than one color
* Cap, when a plastic cap is placed tight on the head in pieces are pulled through with a needle
* Balayage, where hair color is painted directly onto sections of the hair directly with no foils used
Both application techniques can be used with either dyes that range from temporary to permanent.
==Exotic hair colorants==
[[Image:Jeff-blue-beard-sized.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Hair and beard dyed blue.]]
While the majority of hair dying products are designed to produce natural-looking hair color shades (typically blond, red, brown or black), a minority of hair coloring products are designed to create hair colors not typically found in nature. These are available in almost any color imaginable, including green or fuchsia.
These dyes are typically sold in [[punk subculture|punk]]-themed stores (such as [[comic book]] and [[music]] stores).{{Fact|date=May 2008}} (By contrast, regular hair dyes are sold in drugstores and department stores.) Many exotic color shades are [[blacklight]] reactive, which suggests that the wearers typically want their hair color to show up under nightclub lighting.
The chemical formulae of exotic colored dyes typically contain only tint, and have no developer. This means that they will only create the bright color on the packet if they are applied to light blond hair. Therefore, individuals with darker hair (medium brown to black) are advised to use a bleaching kit prior to tint application in order to get the full effect of the color. Some people with fair hair may benefit from prior bleaching as well, as the yellow undertones of blonde hair can make blue dye look green.
These dyes are less permanent, and tend to "bleed" onto other fabric even when dry. Users should anticipate staining of light-colored pillows for a week or so after application.
== Adverse effects of hair coloring ==
Hair coloring involves the use of chemicals capable of removing, replacing and/or covering up pigments naturally found inside the hair shaft. Use of these chemicals can result in a range of adverse effects, including temporary skin irritation and allergy, hair breakage, skin discoloration and unexpected hair color results.
Additionally, there is ongoing debate regarding more serious health consequences of hair dye usage, including lead poisoning.
===Skin irritation and allergy===
In certain individuals, the use of hair coloring can result in allergic reaction and/or skin irritation.
Symptoms of these reactions can include redness, sores, itching, burning sensation and discomfort. If any of these symptoms occur, alert your hair colorist immediately so that they can remove the color. Symptoms will not always be present right at the application and processing of the dye but can also arise after hours or even a day.
To help prevent (of rather, limit the extent of) allergic reactions, the majority of [[hair color]] products recommend that the client conduct a patch test before using the product. This involves mixing a small quantity of dye and applying it directly to the skin. If irritation develops, manufacturers recommend that the client not use the product.
Adverse reactions can result from both at-home and salon hair coloring, as similar chemicals are used in either setting.
In some cases, allergic reactions are caused by the aniline derivative and/or [[p-Phenylenediamine]] (PPD) found in permanent hair color.
===Hair breakage===
Hair that has been damaged by excessive exposure to chemicals is considered 'over-processed'. This results in dry, rough and fragile hair. In extreme cases, the hair can be so damaged that it breaks off entirely.
In the [[United States]], there have been successful law suits against hairdressers who caused clients' hair to break off.
===Skin discoloration===
Many hair dyes will color skin almost as well as they color hair. That means that drips, slips and extra hair dye around the hairline can result in patches of discolored skin. This is more common with the darker the hair dye is.
This discoloration is temporary; it will disappear as the skin naturally renews itself. This typically takes a few days or at most one week.
===Unpredictable color results===
In some cases, the [[hair color]] a person has after coloring their hair is not what they expected to get. In general, this is more likely to happen using at-home dyes, as professional colorists are more aware of what can realistically be achieved with dye and what will distort results. They also typically have a range of products available (such as toners) to correct unintended results before the client sees them.
Some of the things that can cause unintended results include:
* Trying to lighten or darken hair more than 3 shades using at-home products
* Coloring already-colored hair
* Previous use of henna, which can react unpredictably with chemical dyes
In the event of unfortunate unintended results, an immediate visit to a professional hair colorists is generally recommended.
===Health concerns===
There is ongoing debate regarding more serious health consequences that may result from use of hair coloring.
Recent publications regarding the dangers of hair dyes include:
* An FDA study that found lead acetate (the active ingredient in gradual darkening products such as [[Grecian formula]]) to be potentially toxic.<ref>[http://vm.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-lead.html FDA info concerning lead acetate]</ref> <ref>[http://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=3022002 Government reference for Grecian formula's ingredients]</ref>)
* Articles that link the development of some forms of [[cancer]] (including [[leukemia]], non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, bladder cancer, blood cancer, and multiple myeloma) with use of hair color<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.cancerhelp.org.uk/help/default.asp?page=4124|title=Does hair dye cause cancer?|publisher=Cancer Research UK|date=[[20 July]] [[2006]]|accessdate=2007-07-29}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/news/20040126/hair-dye-linked-to-blood-cancer|date=[[January 26]], [[2004]]|accessdate=2007-07-29|title=Hair Dye Linked to Blood Cancer: Long-Term Use of Dark, Permanent Dye May Raise Lymphoma Risk|publisher=[[Web MD]]|first=Daniel J.|last=DeNoon}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.cosmeticscop.com/learn/article.asp?PAGETYPE=ART&REFER=SKIN&ID=123|title=Does Hair Dye Cause Cancer?|first=Paula|last=Begoun|accessdate=2007-07-29|publisher=Paula's Choice}}</ref>
==Alternatives to Chemical Based Dyes==
It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are [[henna]], [[Indigofera tinctoria|indigo]], ''[[Cassia obovata]]'', [[senna (herb)|senna]], [[turmeric]] and [[Indian gooseberry|amla]]. Others include [[katam]], [[black walnut|black walnut hulls]], and [[leeks]] <ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/womanshour/04/2007_08_fri.shtml The History of Hair Dye]</ref>.
Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate based dyes for people that are sensitive to [[p-Phenylenediamine|PPD]], a chemical found in most hair dyes.
There are also said to be non-toxic safer products that avoid the side-effects of chemical based dyes. The safer alternatives generally have fewer chemicals or are plant based and do also have temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options. However, these products typically do not last as long as chemical based dyes. <ref>{{cite web|url=http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0820/is_n253/ai_21034492|title=Hair color to dye for: the good, the bad and the ugly on natural cover-ups - natural hair dyes|publisher=Vegetarian Times|month=September|year=1998|first=Laurie|last=Berger}}</ref>
===Demi-Permanent===
Uses a mild, creamy developer of a lower volume (to other products of same or similar composition), including but not limited to the dye used in textiles, sunscreen, rubber, and/or certain medications.
These are also termed No-Lift Permanent or Deposit-Only . In general, there is no lift or lightening as there is no ammonia to act as a catalyst. With these colors you can add Red, Violet, Blue tones cover grey/white or go darker. These dyes last 15-25 shampoos.
===Semi-Permanent===
Formulated to deposit color on the hair shaft without lightening it. This formula has smaller molecules than those of temporary tinting formulas, and is therefore able to penetrate the hair shaft. Contain no developer or peroxide, and contain no ammonia. It is possible to cover graying shades of hair temporarily with this type of hair coloring, but be advised that it may wear off in 5-7 days. In addition, note that hair products labeled as semi-permanent may contain the toxic compound [[P-Phenylenediamine]] or other such products found in traditional hair color.
[[Henna]] is a plant that is also used for ayurvedic hair coloring. The red dye is commonly used as a deposit-only hair color whose active component, [[lawsone]], binds to [[keratin]] and is therefore semi-permanent, but it will wash out with time, generally a couple of months<ref>http://www.mookychick.co.uk/style/removing_henna.php</ref>. While "natural" henna is generally a deep red-color, variations exist. These variations, however, usually contain ingredients from other plants and even synthetic dyes.
Using a plant-based color, specifically henna, can cause problems later when trying to do a [[permanent wave|perm]] and other permanent hair color. Many people have the misconception that discoloration can occur on hair that has been previously tinted with henna and that hennaed hair cannot be curled. This is untrue, as long as pure imported body art quality henna is used; whereas store-bought "boxed" henna is often mixed with harmful additives, which can cause damage or discoloring to hair.
==See also==
* [[Human physical appearance]]
* [[Hairstyle]]
* [[Hair highlighting]]
* [[Punk fashion]]
==References==
{{reflist}}
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==External links==
*[http://www.askmags.com Askmags "Educational Website for Comsmetologists"]
*[http://www.haircarefacts.com/hair-color-guide.html Complete Hair Color Guide]
*[http://www.haircolorlive.com Hair Color Live]
*[http://www.thehaircoloringguy.com theHairColoringGuy]
*[http://science.howstuffworks.com/hair-coloring.htm How Stuff Works "How Hair Coloring Works"]
*[http://www.repelleprotection.com/howitworks/chemistry-of-hair-color-stain.php "Chemistry of Hair Color Stains"]
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{{Hair colors}}
[[Category:Hairdressing]]
[[Category:Hair color]]
[[Category:Body modification]]
[[de:Haarfärbung]]