Juanito Oiarzabal
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'''Juan Oiarzabal''', commonly known as Juanito Oiarzabal, (born in [[Vitoria-Gasteiz]], on [[30 March]], [[1956]]) is a noted [[Basque people|Basque]] [[mountaineer]] from [[Spain]] and has written four books on the subject. He holds the current [[world record]] for the highest number of summit ascents to mountains of altitude greater than 8,000 meters.
==The Himalayas ==
His success in the [[Himalayas]] is well-known, but less well known is that before starting on those ascents he had already accumulated a curriculum which is among the best of Euskadi. He undertook ascents on all the Spanish mountain masses, on the hardest routes. He even discovered some routes of great relevance. He is a highly experienced in climbing the [[Alps]], undertaking climbs for the technical challenges they presented. In other continents, he has climbed in North America, South America and Africa and returning to the Himalayas, it is here that he carries out his expeditions with the greatest ease, which may seem obvious after 35 expeditions over 23 years.
== Mountaineering curriculum ==
He is the sixth man to reach 14 summits of more than 8,000 meters, and the fourth in reaching them without artificial oxygen. He has now reached 22 summits of more than 8,000 meters, the current world record.
=== Alaska ===
1984 / McKinley (6,194 m) - West Buttress Route
=== Argentina ===
1983 / Aconcagua (6,957 m) – 5th world winter ascent (He has accredited 16 ascents to the Aconcagua, as a “guide”)
=== Kenya ===
1988 / Mount Kenya – Diamond Corridor
=== Nepal ===
1982 / Kangchuntse (Makalu II) (7,640 m). Altitude reached: 7,200 m <br>
1988 / Kangchenjunga (8,598 m). North side. Altitude reached: 8,000 m <br>
1989 / Makalu (8,465 m). West Pillar. Altitude reached: 8,350 m <br>
1990 / Everest (8,848 m). Southwest side. Altitude reached: 8,300 m <br>
1991 / Kangchenjunga (8,598 m). North side. Altitude reached: 8,400 m <br>
1993 / Everest (8,848 m). South-Southeast Route - crest. SUMMIT <br>
1995 / Makalu (8,465 m). Normal route. SUMMIT <br>
1995 / Lhotse (8,516 m). Normal Route. SUMMIT <br>
1996 / Kanchengjunga (8,586 m). North side. British route. SUMMIT <br>
1997 / Manaslu (8,163 m). Normal route. SUMMIT <br>
1998 / Dhaulagiri (8,167 m). Normal route. SUMMIT <br>
1999 / Annapurna (8,091 m.). German route. SUMMIT <br>
2002 / Makalu (8,465 m). West pillar. Altitude reached: 7,600 m <br>
2004 / Ama Dablam (6,856 m). Southwestern sharp edge. SUMMIT
=== Pakistan ===
1987 / Gasherbrun II (8,035 m). . SUMMIT <br>
1987 / Hidden Peak (8,068 m). Messner route. Altitude reached: 6,800 m <br>
1992 / Nanga Parbat (8,125 m). Kinshofer route. SUMMIT <br>
1994 / K.2 - Chogori (8,611 m). Tomo Cesen route (1st integral). SUMMIT <br>
1995 / Broad Peak (8,047 m). Normal route. SUMMIT <br>
1997 / Hidden Peak (8,068 m). Japanese Corridor. SUMMIT <br>
2003 / Broad Peak (8,047 m). Winter. Altitude reached: 6,900 m. <br>
2003 / Gasherbrun II (8,035m.) Normal route. SUMMIT <br>
2003 / Hidden Peak (8,068 m). Japanese Corridor. SUMMIT <br>
2004/ K.2 - Chogori (8,611 m). SUMMIT <ref>[http://www.k2climb.net/story/stories/JuanitoandEdurneK2debriefpart1BeyondthelimitsOct62004.shtml K2 climb - K2 and Karakorum by climbers, news<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref>
=== China ===
1985 / Cho-Oyu (8,201 m). Normal route. SUMMIT <br>
1998 / Shisha Pangma (8,046 m). Southwest side. British route. SUMMIT <br>
2000 / Everest (8,848 m). North side. Altitude reached: 8,700 m (without [[oxygen|O<sub>2</sub>]]) <br>
2001 / Everest (8,848 m). North side. SUMMIT (without O<sub>2</sub>) <br>
2002 / Cho-Oyu (8,201 m). Normal route. SUMMIT <br>
2003 / Cho-Oyu (8,201 m). Normal route. SUMMIT ([[23 September]]) <br>
2003 / Cho-Oyu (8,201 m). Normal route. SUMMIT ([[5 October]])
=== Greenland ===
2000 / Crossing between the localities of Narsasoak and Kangarlosoak (650 km) on a sleigh, pulled by a kite.
=== China (autonomous region of Xinjiang) ===
2000 / TaklaMakan 800 km desert crossing, (desert, within the Gobi desert), only with the help of camels.
=== Russia ===
2001 / Elbruz (5,642 m) Normal route. Winter. The highest European summit.
==Awards and distinctions==
*In his role as an expert, he has participated in several mountain rescue activities, receiving recognition for them.
*He is a Member of Honor of different mountaineering clubs.
*He is a Member of the Basque Mountaineering Club.
*He is a climbing professor.
*He is a professor of the Basque Mountaineering School (EVAM)
*Mountaineering Guide, Member of the [[UIAGM|International Union of Mountaineering Guide Associations]] ([[UIAGM]]).
*Golden Insignia from the Basque Mountaineering Federation.
*Member of the “Comité de Patronage du Cinquantenaire de l’Annapurna” / 2000.
*Member of Honor of the Spanish Geography Society.
*Nominated for the “Prince of Asturias” Award for Sports in 1999.
*Finalist for the “Prince of Asturias” Award for Sports in 2001.
*According to the “Mundo Deportivo” Newspaper, he is among the 20 most important Spanish sportsmen of the century.
*Golden Medal for Sports Merit, awarded by the Spanish government in 1999.
*On the proposal of the editors of Basque jeans of communication, the Basque Regional Government awarded him the distinction of “Universal Basque Citizen” in the year 2000. That year the Jesuit, Ion Sobrino (standard-bearer of the freedom theology in El Salvador), also won the award, which had previously been won by Etxenike, Oteiza and Chillida.
*Member of Honor of the Spanish Exploration and Adventure Cub.
*The sports newspaper Marca awarded him its maximum prize: Marca de Leyenda [Legendary Mark], a distinction that only a handful of elite sportsmen around the world have.
* In recognition of his sports achievements, he has been officially received by outstanding officials and personalities: The Vitoria-Gasteiz City Council, Diputación Foral de Alava [The Alava Regional Authority], the Lehendakari [President] of the Basque Regional Government, the former Spanish prime Minister, Mr. José María Aznar, and HRH Juan Carlos de Borbón.
*He was Guest of Honor at the activities organised by they French Government on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the conquering of Annapurna, invited by its President Mr. Jacques Chirac. He was also a member of the activities Committee.
*In 2005 he was awarded the FCG International Award for Sports by the Fundación Cristóbal Gabarrón.
== Books ==
Mr. Oiarzabal has published four books:
*“Buscando las catorce estrellas” [Searching for the Fourteen Stars], Editorial Lur, 1997
*“Los 14 ochomiles de Juanito Oiarzabal” [The Fourteen Eight-Thousanders of Juanito Oiarzabal], Ediciones Desnivel, 1999,
*“Conversaciones con Juanito Oiarzabal” [Conversations with Juanito Oiarzabal], Ediciones Desnivel, 2001,
*“El Everest de Juanito Oiarzabal” [Juanito Oiarzabal’s Everest], Ediciones Desnivel, 2002,
== Audiovisual productions ==
*He has undertaken 16 audiovisual productions that have been used to promote mountaineering in the province and state, offering prestige to this sport at all levels and, of course, setting a high standard for both Vitoria-Gasteiz and Alava.
*WIth TVE [Televisión Española], he filmed his ascent of Annapurna for the “Al filo de lo imposible” [On the Edge of the Impossible] television program.
*He has also recorded many programs, such as the one he did on Everest, recreating the story of Mallory and Irving who disappeared in 1924 while they tried to reach the summit.
== External links ==
* [http://www.fcginternationalawards.org FCG International Awards]
==References==
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[[Category:1956 births]]
[[Category:Living people]]
[[Category:Mountain climbers]]
[[Category:Basque sportspeople]]
[[Category:Spanish mountain climbers]]
[[Category:Summiters of Mount Everest]]
[[Category:Eight-thousanders]]
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[[ja:フアニート・オヤルサバル]]
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