K2
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2008-07-15T14:19:06Z
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Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/84.41.207.9|84.41.207.9]] to last version by Epbr123 (using [[WP:HG|Huggle]])
{{Infobox Mountain
| Name = K2
| Photo = K2-big.jpg
| Caption = K2 in summer: view of the South Face from [[Concordia (Pakistan)|Concordia]]. The upper portion of the Abruzzi Spur is the right skyline.
| Elevation = {{convert|8611|m|ft|0|lk=on}}<br><small>[[Eight-thousander|Ranked 2nd]] ([[List of mountains in Pakistan|1st in Pakistan]])</small>
| Location = {{flagicon|PAK}} [[Northern Areas, Pakistan|Northern Areas]], [[Pakistan]]<ref name="kashmir">The mountain is located on the western side of the [[Line of Control]] between India and Pakistan</ref><br>
{{flagicon|PRC}} [[Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County]], [[Xinjiang]], [[People's Republic of China|China]]<br>
| Range = [[Karakoram]]
| Prominence = {{convert|4017|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}<small> [[List of peaks by prominence|Ranked 22nd]]</small>
| Coordinates = {{coord|35|52|57|N|76|30|48|E |type:mountain |display=inline,title}} [http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/showthreaded.php/Cat/0/Number/420123/an/0/page/0#420123]
| First ascent = [[July 31]] [[1954]]<br>{{flagicon|ITA}} [[Achille Compagnoni]]<br>{{flagicon|ITA}} [[Lino Lacedelli]]
| First Pakistani ascent = [[August 9]] [[1977]] by Ashraf Amman (1943-
First ascent by a women: Wanda Rutkiewicz
| Easiest route = rock/snow/ice climb
| Listing = [[Eight-thousander]] <br/>[[Seven Second Summits]]
}}
{{Location map
|China| label=K2
|mark=RedMountain.svg|marksize=18
|lat_deg=35|lat_min=52|lat_sec=52.8
|lon_deg=76|lon_min=30|lon_sec=48.4
|position=right
|width=300
|float=right
|caption=Location on Pakistan/China border
}}
{{Redirect|K2}}
'''K2''' is the second-[[List of highest mountains|highest]] [[mountain]] on [[Earth]]. It is located in the [[Karakoram]] segment of the [[Himalaya]]n [[mountain range|range]], on the border<ref name="border_agreement">{{PDFlink|[http://www.law.fsu.edu/library/collection/LimitsinSeas/IBS085.pdf Text of border agreement between China and Pakistan]|253 [[Kibibyte|KiB]]<!-- application/pdf, 259705 bytes -->}}</ref> between [[Gilgit-Baltistan]], Northern Pakistan and the [[Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County]] of [[Xinjiang]], [[People's Republic of China|China]].<ref name="kashmir"/>
Chinese authorities officially refer to K2 as '''Qogir'''; {{zh-stp|s=乔戈里峰|t=喬戈里峰|p=Qiáogēlǐ Fēng}}. This name is derived from '''Chogori''', a synthetic name made up by Western explorers early in the 20th century from two [[Balti language|Balti]] words, ''chhogo'' ('big') and ''ri'' ('mountain') (شاہگوری).<ref name="carter_1983">[[H. Adams Carter]], "A Note on the Chinese Name for K2, 'Qogir'", ''American Alpine Journal'', 1983, p. 296. Carter, the longtime editor of the ''AAJ'', goes on to say that the name ''Chogori'' "has no local usage. The mountain was not prominently visible from places where local inhabitants ventured and so had no local name.... The Baltis use no other name for the peak than K2, which they pronounce 'Ketu'. I strongly recommend ''against'' the use of the name ''Chogori'' in any of its forms."</ref> Other names include '''Mount Godwin-Austen''' ({{lang-ur|ماؤنٹ گڈون آسٹن}}),<ref>[https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/pk.html CIA Fact Book, Pakistan]</ref><ref name="carter_godwin_austen">H. Adams Carter, "Balti Place Names in the Karakoram", ''American Alpine Journal'', 1975, p. 52–53. Carter notes that "Godwin Austen is the name of the glacier at its eastern foot and is only incorrectly used on some maps as the name of the mountain."</ref> '''Lamba Pahar''' ("Tall Mountain" in Urdu), '''Dapsang''', '''Kechu''' or '''Ketu''' ({{lang-ur|کے ٹو}}), the latter two of which are both derived from "K2"<ref name="carter_1983"/><ref name="carter_ketu">''ibid''. Carter notes a generalization of the word ''Ketu'': "A new word, ''ketu'', meaning 'big peak', seems to be entering the Balti language."</ref>).
== Climbing history ==
The mountain was first surveyed by a [[Europe]]an survey team in [[1856]]. [[Thomas George Montgomerie|Thomas Montgomerie]] was the member of the team who designated it "K2" for being the second peak of the Karakoram range. The other peaks were originally named K1, K3, K4 and K5, but were eventually renamed [[Masherbrum]], [[Broad Peak]], [[Gasherbrum II]] and [[Gasherbrum I]] respectively.
In 1892, Martin Conway led a British expedition that could only reach up to 'Concordia' point of the [[Baltoro Glacier]].<ref>Charles S. Houston (1953) K2, the Savage Mountain. McGraw-Hill.</ref> The first serious attempt to climb K2 was undertaken in [[1902]] by [[Oscar Eckenstein]] and [[Aleister Crowley]] via the Northeast Ridge, but after five serious and costly attempts, the team could only reach up to 6525 meters.<ref>[http://www.k2climb.net/expguide/timeline.htm A timeline of human activity on K2]</ref> The failures are attributed to a combination of questionable physical training, personality conflicts, and poor weather conditions — of 68 days spent on K2 (at the time, the record for longest time spent at such an altitude) only eight provided clear weather.<ref>{{cite book
| last = Booth | first = Martin | authorlink = Martin Booth
| title=A Magick Life: A Biography of Aleister Crowley | origyear=2000
| format=[[trade paperback]] | edition=Coronet | year=2001
| publisher=Hodder and Stoughton | location=London | language=English
| id=ISBN 0-340-71806-4 | pages=152–157 | chapter = Rhythms of Rapture}}</ref>
The next expedition to K2 in 1909 was led by [[Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi]] reached an elevation of around 6,250 m on the South East Spur, now known as the ''Abruzzi Spur'' (or Abruzzi Ridge). This would eventually become part of the standard route, but was abandoned at the time due to its steepness and difficulty. After trying and failing to find a feasible alternative route on the West Ridge or the North East Ridge, the Duke declared that K2 would never be climbed, and the team switched its attention to [[Chogolisa]], where the Duke came within 150 m of the summit before being driven back by a storm.<ref>{{cite book |title=K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain|last=Curran|first=Jim|authorlink=|coauthors=|year=1995 |publisher=Hodder & Stoughton|location= |isbn=978-0340660072|pages=pp.65-72}}</ref>
The next attempt on K2 was not made until 1938, when an American expedition led by [[Charles Snead Houston|Charles Houston]] made a reconnaissance of the mountain. They concluded that the Abruzzi Spur was the most practical route, and reached a height of around 8000 m before turning back due to diminishing supplies and the threat of bad weather.<ref>{{cite book |title=Five Miles High|last=Houston|first=Charles S|authorlink=Charles Snead Houston |coauthors=Bates, Robert |year=1939 |publisher=Dodd, Mead|location= |isbn=978-1585740512|pages= }} Reprinted (2000) by First Lyon Press with introduction by [[Jim Wickwire]]</ref><ref>Curran, pp.73-80</ref> The following year an expedition led by [[Fritz Wiessner]] came within 200 m of the summit, but ended in disaster when four climbers disappeared high on the mountain.<ref>{{cite book |title=K2: The 1939 Tragedy|last=Kaufman|first=Andrew J.|authorlink=|coauthors=Putnam, William L.|year=1992 |publisher=Mountaineers Books|location= |isbn=978-0898863239|pages=}}</ref><ref>Curran pp.81-94</ref>
[[Image:K2 East Face 1909.jpg|thumb|right|upright|K2 from the east, photographed during the 1909 expedition]]
Charles Houston returned to K2 to lead the [[Third American Karakoram Expedition|1953 American expedition]]. The expedition failed due to a storm which pinned the team down for ten days at 7800 m, during which time [[Art Gilkey]] became critically ill. A desperate retreat followed, during which [[Pete Schoening]] saved almost the entire team during a mass fall, and Gilkey was killed, either in an avalanche or in a deliberate attempt to avoid burdening his companions. In spite of the failure and tragedy, the courage shown by the team has given the expedition iconic status in mountaineering history.<ref>{{cite book |title=K2 - The Savage Mountain|last=Houston|first=Charles S|authorlink=Charles Snead Houston |coauthors=Bates, Robert |year=1954 |publisher=Mc-Graw-Hill Book Company Inc|location= |isbn=978-1585740130|pages= }} Reprinted (2000) by First Lyon Press with introduction by [[Jim Wickwire]]</ref><ref>{{cite book |title=Brotherhood of the Rope - The Biography of Charles Houston|last=McDonald|first=Bernadette|authorlink=|coauthors=|year=2007 |publisher=The Mountaineers Books|location= |isbn=978-0898869422|pages=pp119-140}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |title=K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain|last=Curran|first=Jim|authorlink=|coauthors=|year=1995 |publisher=Hodder & Stoughton|location= |isbn=978-0340660072|pages=pp95-103}}</ref>
An [[Italy|Italian]] expedition finally succeeded in ascending to the summit of K2 on [[July 31]], [[1954]]. The expedition was led by [[Ardito Desio]], although the two climbers who actually reached the top were [[Lino Lacedelli]] and [[Achille Compagnoni]]. The team included a Pakistani member, Colonel Muhammad Ata-ullah, who had been a part of the 1953 American expedition. Also on the expedition was the famous Italian climber [[Walter Bonatti]], who proved vital to the expedition's success in that he carried vital oxygen to 26,600 feet for Lacedelli and Compagnoni. His dramatic [[bivouac]] in the open at that altitude wrote another chapter in the saga of Himalayan climbing.
On [[August 9]], [[1977]], 23 years after the Italian expedition, [[Ichiro Yoshizawa]] led the second successful ascent to the top; with [[Ashraf Aman]] as the first native Pakistani climber. The Japanese expedition ascended through the Abruzzi Spur route traced by the Italians, and used more than 1,500 porters to achieve the goal.
[[Image:K2fromBroadPeakBaseCamp.jpg|right|thumb|300px|K2 from Broad Peak Base Camp]]
The year 1978 saw the third ascent of K2, via a new route, the long, [[cornice (climbing)|cornice]]d Northeast Ridge. (The top of the route traversed left across the East Face to avoid a vertical [[headwall]] and joined the uppermost part of the Abruzzi route.) This ascent was made by an American team, led by noted mountaineer [[James Whittaker]]; the summit party were [[Louis Reichardt]], [[Jim Wickwire]], [[John Roskelley]], and [[Rick Ridgeway]]. Wickwire endured an overnight [[Bivouac shelter|bivouac]] about 150 m below the summit, one of the highest bivouacs in climbing history. This ascent was emotional for the American team, as they saw themselves as completing a task that had been begun by the 1938 team forty years earlier.<ref name="aaj_1979">''American Alpine Journal'', 1979, pp. 1–18</ref>
Another notable Japanese ascent was that of the difficult North Ridge (see route information below), on the Chinese side of the peak, in 1982. A team from the [[Mountaineering Association of Japan]] led by Isao Shinkai and Masatsugo Konishi put three members, Naoe Sakashita, Hiroshi Yoshino, and Yukihiro Yanagisawa, on the summit on [[August 14]]. However Yanagisawa fell and died on the descent. Four other members of the team achieved the summit the next day.<ref name="aaj_1983">''American Alpine Journal'', 1983, p. 295</ref>
The first climber to summit K2 twice was a Czech climber Josef Rakoncaj. Josef was a member of the 1983 Italian expedition led by Francesco Santon, which made the second successful ascent of the North Ridge ([[July 31]] , [[1983]]). Three years later, on [[July 5]], [[1986]], he summitted on the Abruzzi Spur (double with Broad Peak West Face solo) as a member of Agostino da Polenza's international expedition.
The peak has now been climbed by almost all of its ridges. Although the [[Summit (topography)|summit]] of [[Mount Everest|Everest]] is at a higher [[altitude]], K2 is considered a more difficult climb, due in part to its terrible weather and comparatively greater height above surrounding terrain. The mountain is believed by many to be the world's most difficult and dangerous climb, hence its nickname "the Savage Mountain." As of November 2007, only 280 people have completed the ascent [http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/climbers.html], compared with about 2,600 individuals who have ascended the more popular target of Everest. At least 66 people have died attempting the climb; 13 climbers from several expeditions died in 1986 in the [[Alan Rouse#1986 K2 Disaster|K2 Tragedy]] during a severe storm.
Legend once had it that K2 carried a "curse on women." The first woman to reach the summit was [[Wanda Rutkiewicz]], of [[Poland]], in 1986. The next five women to reach the summit are all deceased — three of them died on the way down, among them fêted British mountaineer [[Alison Hargreaves]] in 1995. Rutkiewicz herself died on [[Kangchenjunga]] in 1992. However, the "curse" was broken in 2004 when [[Edurne Pasaban]] summitted and descended successfully, and again in 2006 when Nives Meroi of Italy and Yuka Komatsu of Japan became, respectively, the seventh and eighth women to summit K2, both descending successfully.
For most of its climbing history, K2 was not usually climbed with bottled oxygen, and small, relatively lightweight teams were the norm.<ref name="him_alpine_style">Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, ''Himalaya Alpine-Style'', Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, ISBN 0-340-64931-3</ref><ref name="world_mountaineering">Audrey Selkeld, editor, ''World Mountaineering'', Bulfinch Press, 1998, ISBN 0-8212-2502-2</ref> However the 2004 season saw a great increase in the use of oxygen: 28 of 47 summitters used oxygen in that year.<ref name="aaj_2005">''American Alpine Journal'', 2005, p. 351–353</ref>
==Climbing routes and difficulties==
[[Image:Karakorum k2.jpg|thumb|right|300px|K2 from Concordia]]
There are a number of routes on K2, of somewhat different character, but they all share some key difficulties: First is the extreme high altitude and resulting lack of oxygen: in fact there is only one third as much oxygen available to a climber on the summit of K2 as there is at sea level.<ref> [http://www.altitude.org/calculators/altitudefacts/altitudefacts.htm Altitude oxygen calculator online]</ref> Second is the propensity of the mountain to experience extreme storms of several days' duration, which have resulted in many of the deaths on the peak. Third is the steep, exposed, and committing nature of all routes on the mountain, which makes retreat more difficult, especially during a storm. Despite many tries there has been no successful ascent during the winter.
===Abruzzi Spur===
[[Image:AbruzziSpurRoute1.jpg|thumb|300px|Carl Drew climbing ladders on Abruzzi Spur. Photo by Abdul Aziz]]
The standard route of ascent, used far more than any other route, is the Abruzzi Spur,<ref name="him_alpine_style"/><ref name="world_mountaineering"/> first attempted by [[Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi]] in 1909 (see the history above). This is the southeast ridge of the peak, rising above the [[Godwin Austen Glacier]]. The spur proper begins at an altitude of 5,400 m, where Advanced Base Camp is usually placed. The route follows an alternating series of rock ribs, snow/ice fields, and some technical [[rock climbing]] on two famous features, "House's Chimney" and the "Black Pyramid." Above the Black Pyramid, dangerously exposed and difficult to navigate slopes lead to the easily visible "Shoulder," and thence to the summit. The last major obstacle is a narrow [[couloir]] known as the "Bottleneck," which places climbers dangerously close to a wall of [[serac]]s which form an ice cliff to the east of the summit. (It was partly due to the collapse of one of these seracs around 2001 that no climbers summited the peak in 2002 and 2003.)<ref name="aaj_2005"/>
===North Ridge===
[[Image:K2 North Face.jpg|thumb|300px|The North Face of K2]]
Almost opposite from the Abruzzi Spur is the North Ridge,<ref name="him_alpine_style"/><ref name="world_mountaineering"/> which ascends the Chinese side of the peak. It is rarely climbed, partly due to very difficult access, involving crossing the [[Shaksgam River]], which is a hazardous undertaking.<ref name="aaj_1991">''American Alpine Journal'', 1991, pp. 19–32</ref> In contrast to the crowds of climbers and trekkers at the Abruzzi basecamp, usually at most two teams are encamped below the North Ridge. This route, more technically difficult than the Abruzzi, ascends a long, steep, primarily rock ridge to high on the mountain (Camp IV, the "Eagle's Nest", 7,900 m), and then crosses a dangerously slide-prone hanging [[glacier]] by a leftward climbing traverse, to reach a snow couloir which accesses the summit.
Besides the original Japanese ascent (see the History section), a notable ascent of the North Ridge was the one in 1990 by Greg Child, Greg Mortimer, and Steve Swenson, which was done [[alpine style]] (though using some fixed ropes already put in place by previous teams).<ref name="aaj_1991"/>
===Other routes===
* Northeast Ridge (long and corniced; finishes on uppermost part of Abruzzi route), 1978.
* West Ridge, 1981.
* Southwest Pillar or "Magic Line", very technical, and second most demanding, first made in 1986 by Polish-Slovak trio Piasecki-Wroz-Bozik, since than despite many tries by several climbers tried to repeat and no one made it until 2004 Jordi Corominas.
* South Face or "Polish Line", (extremely exposed and most dangerous) in 1986 Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski did first and only ascent on this route, it was called by [[Reinhold Messner]] a suicidal route and until now no one ever tried to repeat their achievement.<ref>R. Messner and A. Gogna [1981] (1982) K2 Mountain of Mountains. Translated from [[German language|German]] by A. Salked. Oxford University Press. ISBN 0195202538</ref>
* Northwest Face, 1990.
* Northwest Ridge (finishing on North Ridge), first ascent 1991.
* South-southeast spur or "Cesen route" (finishing on Abruzzi route; a possibly safer alternative to the Abruzzi), 1994.
* West Face (technical difficulty at high altitude), done by russian team 2007 [http://www.k2-8611.ru/Pages/default.aspx Official site].
== Topographic characteristics ==
K2 is only [[List of peaks by prominence|ranked 22nd]] by [[topographic prominence]], a measure of a mountain's independent stature, because it is part of the same extended area of uplift (including the Karakoram, the Tibetan Plateau, and the Himalaya) as [[Mount Everest]], in that it is possible to follow a path from K2 to Everest that goes no lower than 4,594 m (at [[Mustang (kingdom)|Mustang Lo]]). Many other peaks which are far lower than K2 are more independent in this sense.
However, K2 is notable for its local relief as well as its total height. It stands over 3,000 m (9,840 ft) above much of the glacial valley bottoms at its base. More extraordinary is the fact that it is a consistently steep pyramid, dropping quickly in almost all directions. The north side is the steepest: there it rises over 3,200 m (10,500 ft) above the K2 (Qogir) Glacier in only 3 km (1.8 mi) of horizontal distance. In most directions, it achieves over 2,800 m (9,200 ft) of vertical relief in less than 4 km (2.4 mi).<ref name="8000m_map">Jerzy Wala, ''The Eight-Thousand-Metre Peaks of the Karakoram'', Orographical Sketch Map, The Climbing Company Ltd/Cordee, 1994.</ref> This degree of steepness, at this vertical scale, in so many different directions, is unmatched in the world.
==In the media==
===Books===
*''Ascent of K2 Second Highest Peak in the World'' by Ardito Desio. 1955
*''In the Throne of the Mountain Gods'' by Galen Rowell, ISBN 0-87156-764-4, 1986
*''K2, Mountain of Mountains'' by R. Messner and A. Gogna, ISBN 0195202538. 1982
*''K2, Triumph and Tragedy'' by Jim Curran, ISBN 0-395-48590-8. 1987
*''The Endless Knot: K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny'' by Kurt Diemberger, ISBN 0-89886-300-7. 1991
*''Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Mountains'' by [[Jon Krakauer]] ISBN 0-385-48818-1. 1997
*''The Last Step: The American Ascent of K2'' by Rick Ridgeway, ISBN 0-89886-632-4. 1999
*''K2, The Story of the Savage Mountain'' by Jim Curran, ISBN 0-89886-683-9. 2000
*''K2, The Savage Mountain'' by Charles Houston, ISBN 1-885283-01-6. 2000
*''The Mountains of My Life'' by Walter Bonatti, ISBN 0-375-75640-X. 2001
*''K2, Quest of the Gods: The Great Pyramid in the Himalaya'' by Ralph Ellis, ISBN 0-932813-99-2. 2001
*''K2: One Woman's Quest for the Summit'' by Heidi Howkins, ISBN 0-7922-7996-4. 2001 (Paperback by [[National Geographic Society]], ISBN 978-0792264248, 2002)
*''K2 Kahani'' by Mustansar Hussain Tarrad, ''in [[Urdu]]''. ISBN 9693505239. 2002
*''Savage Summit: The True Stories of the First Five Women Who Climbed K2'' by Jennifer Jordan, ISBN 0-06-058715-6. 2005
*''Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights)'' by [[Dušan Jelinčič]], EAN / ISBN 961-6387-75-8. 2006
*''No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks'' by Ed Viesturs. ISBN 0767924711. 2007
===Films===
*''[[Vertical Limit]]'', 2000
*''[[K2 (film)|K2]]'', 1992
*''[[Karakoram & Himalayas]]'', 2007
== See also ==
* [[Concordia (Pakistan)|Concordia]]
* [[Northern Areas]]
* [[List of mountains in Pakistan]]
* [[List of highest mountains|List of the highest mountains in the world]]
==References and notes==
{{reflist}}
==External links==
{{Commons|K2}}
*[http://www.leica-geosystems.com/metrology/en/solutions/other/lgs_2704.htm How high is K2 really?] – Measurements in 1996 gave 8614.27±0.6 m [[Above mean sea level|a.m.s.l]]
*[http://www.k2climb.net/ K2climb.net]
*[http://www.macp-pk.org/home.asp The Mountain Areas Conservancy Project]
*[http://www.jerberyd.com/climbing/stories/k2/index.htm The climbing history of K2] from the first attempt in 1902 until the Italian success in 1954.
*[http://www.tibet.cn/english/news/2004-5-2/News0200452141408.htm China Peak Exploration Team to challenge Mt. Qogir]
*''Outside Online'': [http://outside.away.com/news/specialreport/alison/K2omag.html The K2 Tragedy]
*[http://www.k2doc.com/ K2: Daring to Dream Documentary]
*{{PDFlink|[http://photographic.co.nz/everestposter/K2%20Poster.pdf Sample of K2 poster product including Routes and Notes]|235 [[Kibibyte|KiB]]<!-- application/pdf, 240942 bytes -->}} From [http://photographic.co.nz/everestposter/ Everest-K2 Posters]
* [http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/showthreaded.php/Cat/0/Number/420123/an/0/page/0#420123 Northern Pakistan - highly detailed placemarks of towns, villages, peaks, glaciers, rivers and minor tributaries in Google Earth]
*[http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150257/k2.html K2 on SummitPost.Org]
*[http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9044241/K2 K2 on Encyclopedia Britannica]
*[http://www.omnimap.com/cgi/graphic.pl?images/for-topo/64-40851.jpg Map of K2]
*[http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/climbers.html Full list of all ascents of K2 to March 2007 (in Excel format)]
{{Eight-thousander}}
{{Seven Second Summits}}
[[Category:Mountains of China]]
[[Category:Mountains of Pakistan]]
[[Category:Eight-thousanders]]
[[Category:Karakoram]]
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