Lava Beds National Monument 263881 223777839 2008-07-05T19:27:43Z AlbertHerring 753665 /* External links */ - add template {{Infobox_protected_area | name = Lava Beds National Monument | iucn_category = III | image = US_Locator_Blank.svg | caption = | locator_x = 18 | locator_y = 53 | location = Northern [[California]], [[United States|USA]] | nearest_city = [[Klamath Falls, Oregon]] | lat_degrees = 41 | lat_minutes = 42 | lat_seconds = 50 | lat_direction = N | long_degrees = 121 | long_minutes = 30 | long_seconds = 30 | long_direction = W | area = 46,560 acres (188.4 km²) | established = [[21 November]], [[1925]] | visitation_num = 107,475 | visitation_year = 2005 | governing_body = [[National Park Service]] }} '''Lava Beds National Monument''', located in [[Siskiyou County, California|Siskiyou]] and [[Modoc County, California|Modoc]] Counties, [[California]], is the site of the largest concentration of [[lava tube]] [[cave]]s in [[North America]]. It was established as a [[United States National Monument]] on [[November 21]], [[1925]]. [[Image:Medicine Lake Volcano from Captain Jack's Stronghold in Lava Beds NM-750px.JPG|thumb|290px|left|[[Medicine Lake Volcano]] from [[Captain Jack's Stronghold]]]] The monument lies on the northeast flank of the [[Medicine Lake Volcano]], the largest [[volcano]] (total area covered) in the [[Cascade Range]]. The region in and around the monument is unique because it lies on the junction of the Sierra-Klamath, Cascade, and Great Basin physiographic provinces. In addition, the monument is geologically outstanding because of its great variety of "textbook" volcanic formations; i.e., [[lava tube]] caves, [[fumarole]]s, [[volcanic cone#cinder cone|cinder cone]]s, [[volcanic cone#spatter cone|spatter cone]]s, [[maar]]s, and [[lava flow]]s. Over 30 separate lava flows located in the park range in age from 2,000,000 years BP to 1,110 years BP. Some of the major Lava Flows within Lava Beds National Monument include: [[Callahan Flow]], [[Schonchin Flow]], [[Mammoth Crater Flow]], [[Modoc Crater Flow]], and [[Devils Homestead Flow]]. [[Schonchin Butte]] is an example of a cinder cone. The high elevation, semi-arid desert environment of Lava Beds receives an average of 15 inches (381 mm) of annual precipitation. The climate is characterized by warm, dry summers and cold winters. The average annual high temperature is 60 °F (16 °C) and average annual low temperature is 35 °F (2 °C). Temperature extremes range from 18 °F (−28 °C) to 102 °F (39 °C). Average annual snowfall is 44 inches (112 cm). The lava tube collapse systems and lava outcrops support a great diversity of plant life, from an impressive variety of [[lichen]]s and [[moss]]es to plants such as desert sweet ([[Chamaebatiaria millefolium]]) and the aromatic desert (purple) sage ([[Salvia dorrii carnosa]]). An impressive variety of [[fern]] species are present in cave entrances including the spreading wood fern ([[Dryopteris expansa]]) and the western swordfern ([[Polystichum munitum]]). These species are well outside of their normal range 90 - 125 miles away on the northern [[California]] coastline. Volcanic eruptions on the [[Medicine Lake]] [[shield volcano]] have created an incredibly rugged landscape punctuated by cinder cones, lava flows, spatter cones, lava tube caves and [[pit crater]]s. ==Modoc War== [[Image:CaptainJacksStronghold.jpg|thumb|190px|Captain Jack's Stronghold]] {{main|Modoc War}} During the [[Modoc War]] of [[1872]]-[[1873]], the [[Modoc]] Indians used these tortuous lava flows to their advantage. Under the leadership of [[Captain Jack (Native American)|Captain Jack]], the Modocs took refuge in "[[Captain Jack's Stronghold]]," a natural lava fortress. From this base a group of 53 fighting men and their families held off [[United States Army|US Army]] forces numbering up to ten times their strength for five months. [[Gen E. R. S. Canby]] was killed here by Captain Jack at a peace meeting on [[April 11]], [[1873]]. ==Wildlife== Despite harsh, [[semi-arid]] conditions, native wildlife has adapted to the environmental constraints present in the region. There are no terrestrial [[water]] resources in Lava Beds National Monument. Some [[animal]]s obtain water from [[cave]]s, while others fly about twenty miles (12 km) north to [[Tule Lake]]. Federal and state animal species of special concern in the monument include: [[Cooper's Hawk]] (''Accipiter cooperii''), [[Fringed Myotis]] (''Myotis thysanodes''), [[Long-eared Myotis]] (''Myotis evotic''), [[Long-legged Myotis]] (''Myotis volans''), [[Pallid Bat]] (''Antrozous pallidus''), [[Silver-haired Bat]] (''Lasionycteris noctivigans''), [[Townsends Big-eared Bat]] (''Corynorhinus townsendii''), [[Western Small-footed Myotis]] (''Myotis ciliolabrum''), and [[American Badger]] (''Taxidea taxus''). [[Image:LavaBedsNatlMnmt L7 14jun01.jpg|thumb|200px|right|False-color satellite image of Lava Beds National Monument and surrounding area ([[:Image:LavaBedsNatlMnmt L7 14jun01.jpg|more information]]).]] Because of a lack of surface water, [[amphibia]]n presence in the monument is limited. The most common species found in the monument is the [[Pacific Tree Frog|Pacific tree frog]] (''Pseudacris regilla''). This species is also found in the biologically rich cave entrances in the monument. [[Reptile]] species found in the monument include: [[sagebrush lizard|northern sagebrush lizard]] (''Sceloporus graciosus graciosus''), [[Western fence lizard|Great Basin fence lizard]] (''Sceloporus occidentalis biseriatus''), [[western skink]] (''Eumeces skiltonianus skiltonianus''), [[Rubber Boa|Rocky Mountain rubber boa]] (''Charina bottae utahensis''), [[gopher snake]] (''Pituophis melanoleucus''), [[Hypsiglena torquata|desert night snake]] (''Hypsiglena torquata deserticola''), [[Crotalus viridis|western rattlesnake]] (''Crotalus viridis''). Key animal species by [[habitat (ecology)|habitat]]: *Bunchgrass-[[sagebrush]] [[grassland]]s: [[Mule Deer]], [[Gopher Snake|coyote gopher snake]], [[Prairie Falcon]], [[Western Meadowlark]], [[anderson larkspur]], [[yellow-bellied marmot]], [[Kangaroo Rat]] *Ponderosa-[[juniper]]-brushlands: [[Pronghorn Antelope]], [[Bobcat]], [[Scrub Jay]], [[Hare|Jackrabbit]], [[Mountain Bluebird]], *Pine forest: [[Mountain Lion]], [[Bald Eagle]] (winter resident), [[Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel]] *Rocky Lava Flows: [[western fence lizard]], [[Crotalus viridis|western rattlesnake]] *Cave mouths & interior passages: [[Violet-green Swallow]], [[Brazilian Free-tailed Bat]], [[Townsends Big-eared Bat]], [[Pacific Tree Frog|Pacific tree frog]], [[Pika]], [[Bushy-tailed Woodrat]] *Lake shore areas: [[Skunk]], [[Raccoon]], [[Great Horned Owl]], [[Short-eared Owl]]. ==Geologic formations== [[Image:IlluminatedLavaTubeCropped.jpg|thumb|225px|right|Illuminated lava tube - all others here require flashlights (available by loan) or are illuminated by ceiling collapse portals]] Roughly ninety percent of the [[lava]] in the monument is [[basalt]]ic. There are primarily two kinds of basaltic lava flows: [[pahoehoe]] and [['A'a]]. Pahoehoe is smooth and ropy and is the type most common in Lava Beds. Aa is formed when pahoehoe cools and loses some of its [[gas]]es. Aa is rough, sharp, and jagged; an excellent example is the Devils Homestead lava flow, which originated at Fleener Chimneys. Most of the rest of the lava in the monument is [[andesite|andesitic]]. [[Pumice]], a type of [[rhyolite|rhyolitic]] lava, also is found covering the monument; this rained down around 900 years ago during the eruption of [[Glass Mountain lava flow|Glass Mountain]]. The flows from Mammoth and Modoc Craters comprise about 2/3 of the lava in the monument. These flows have been dated to about 30,000-40,000 years ago; most of the caves in the monument were formed from these flows. As the hot basaltic lava flowed downhill, the top cooled and crusted over, insulating the rest of the lava and forming [[lava tube]]s. [[Lavacicle]]s on the ceiling of a lava tube were left as the level of lava in the tube retreated and the viscous lava on the ceiling dripped as it cooled. Dripstone was created when lava splashed on the inside walls of the tubes. [[Image:Lavacicles 8238.jpg|thumb|200px|left|[[Lavacicle]]s on the ceiling of Mushpot Cave.]] [[Volcanic cone#cinder cone|Cinder cone]]s are formed when [[magma]] is under great pressure. It is released in a fountain of lava, blown into the air from a central vent. The lava cools as it falls, forming cinders that pile up around the vent. When the pressure has been relieved, the rest of the lava flows from the base of the cone. Cinder cones typically only erupt once. The cinder cones of Hippo Butte, Three Sisters, Juniper Butte, and Crescent Butte are all older than the Mammoth and Modoc Crater flows (that is, more than 30,000-40,000 years old). Eagle Nest Butte and Bearpaw Butte are 114,000 years old. Schonchin Butte and the andesitic flow from its base were formed around 62,000 years ago. The flow that formed Valentine Cave erupted 10,850 years ago. An eruption that formed The Castles is younger than the Mammoth Crater flows. Even younger were eruptions from Fleener Chimneys (the Devils Homestead flow, 10,500 years ago) and Black Crater (3,025 years ago). About 1,110 years ago, plus or minus 60 years, the Callahan flow was produced by an eruption from Cinder Butte. Though Cinder Butte is just outside the boundary of the monument, the Callahan flow is in Lava Beds and is the youngest flow in the monument. [[Volcanic cone#spatter cone|Spatter cone]]s are built out of thicker lava. The lava is thrown out of the vent and builds, layer by layer, a chimney surrounding the vent. Fleener Chimneys and Black Crater are examples of spatter cones. Gillem Bluff, a fault scarp, was created as the region stretched and a block of earth dropped down along this fault (see [[Basin and Range Province]]). The [[tuff]] layer on top of Gillem Bluff is 2,000,000 years old, inferring the rock layers beneath are even older. The oldest lava flow from the Medicine Lake Volcano within the monument is the Basalt of Hovey Point, near Captain Jacks Stronghold, which is 450,000 years old. Petroglyph Point was created about 275,000 years ago when cinders erupted through the shallow water of Tule Lake; violent explosions of ash and steam formed layers upon layers of tuff. ===Recent activity=== [[Image:SchonchDawn-01.jpg|thumb|250px|right|Schonchin Butte cinder cone at dawn, viewed from Park Headquarters.]] A series of small [[earthquake]]s in late [[1988]] has been attributed to subsidence in the [[caldera]]. N-NE trending ground cracks, as well as N-NE trending vent series show relationships between tectonism and volcanism. One very prevalent ground crack exists along the northeastern boundary of the monument- "The Big Crack." The leaching of [[mineral]]s from pumice gravel, [[soil]]s, and overlying [[Rock (geology)|rock]] provides for deposition of secondary speleothems in lava tubes. ==Media== {{multi-video start}} {{multi-video item|filename=LavaBedsNationalMonument.ogg‎ |title=Caves and sights of Lava Beds National Monument|description=Short video showing sights in Lava Beds National Monument, from [http://www.ianandwendy.com/OtherTrips/ShastaLassenLABE/index.htm here].}} {{multi-video end}} ==See also== *[[Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway]] ==External links== {{commons}} *[http://www.nps.gov/labe/index.htm National Park Service: Lava Beds National Monument] (adapted public domain text) {{Registered Historic Places}} {{Protected Areas of California}} [[Category:National Monuments in California]] [[Category:1925 establishments]] [[Category:Archaeological sites in California]] [[Category:Volcanoes of California]] [[Category:Modoc County, California]] [[Category:Siskiyou County, California]] [[Category:Caves of California]] [[Category:Lava tubes]] [[de:Lava Beds National Monument]] [[fr:Lava Beds National Monument]] [[pl:Lava Beds National Monument]]