Marseille 71486 225572366 2008-07-14T10:58:35Z Mathsci 884502 /* Central Marseille */ adding wikilink to new article {{otheruses}} {{French commune |native_name = Ville de Marseille |common_name = Marseille |image = [[Image:Vieux port de Marseille 2.jpg|300px]] |caption = The Old Port of Marseille |image_flag = Flag_of_Marseille.svg |image_flag_size = 105px |image_coat_of_arms = Blason_Marseille.jpg |image_coat_of_arms_size = 125px |flag_legend = City flag |Coat_of_arms_legend = Coat of arms |city_motto = ''Actibus immensis urbs fulget Massiliensis.''<br>"By her great deeds, the city of Massilia shines" |image_map = France_jms.png |x = 197 |y = 217 |time zone = CET <small>(GMT +1)</small> |lat_long = {{coor dms|43|17|51|N|5|22|38|E|type:city}} |region = [[Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur]] |departement = [[Bouches-du-Rhône]] (13) |mayor = [[Jean-Claude Gaudin]] |party = [[Union for a Popular Movement|UMP]] |mandat = since 1995 |subdivisions_entry = [[Administrative division|<font color=#000000>Subdivisions</font>]]ʁ |subdivisions = 16 arrondissements<br>(in 8 ''secteurs'') |area = 240.62 |population = 820,900 |population-ranking=[[List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants (1999 census)|2nd in France]] |date-population = Jan. 2005 estimate |density = 3.412 |date-density = 2005 |UU-area = 1,290 |UU-area-date = 1999 |UU-pop = 1,349,772 |UU-pop-date = 1999 |AU-area = 2,830.2 |AU-area-date = 1999 |AU-pop = 1,604,550 |AU-pop-date = 2007 |intercom-details1 = &nbsp; - president |intercom-details2 = [[Urban Community of Marseille Provence Métropole]] |cp = 13001-13016 |diallingcode = 0491 |}} '''Marseille''', ([[English language|English]] alt. '''Marseilles''' {{IPAEng|mɑrˈseɪ}} — [[French language|French]]: {{pronounced|maʁsɛj}}, locally {{IPA|[mɑχˈsɛjɐ]}} — [[Provençal language|Provençal]] [[Occitan]]: ''Marselha'' {{IPA|[maʀˈsejɔ, maʀˈsijɔ]}} in classical norm or ''Marsiho'' {{IPA|[maʀˈsijɔ]}} in Mistralian norm — Origin: [[Greek language|Greek]]: ''Massalia / Μασσαλία'') is the second-largest city of [[France]] and forms the third-largest [[aire urbaine|metropolitan area]], after those of [[Paris]] and [[Lyon]], with a population recorded to be 1,516,340 at the 1999 census and estimated to be 1,605,000 in 2007. Located on the south east coast of France on the [[Mediterranean Sea]], Marseille is France's largest commercial [[Seaport|port]]. Marseille is the administrative capital (''préfecture de région'') of the [[Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur]] [[regions of France|region]], as well as the [[Prefectures in France|administrative capital]] (''préfecture départementale'') of the [[Bouches-du-Rhône]] [[departments of France|department]]. Its inhabitants are called ''Marseillais''. ==Geography== [[Image:Marseille-corniche.jpg|thumb|left|220px|View of the "Petit Nice" on the Corniche with Frioul and Chateau d'If in the background]] Marseille is the largest and most populous [[Communes of France|commune in France]] after [[Paris]] and is the centre of the third largest [[Aire urbaine|metropolitan area in France]]. To the east, starting in the small fishing village of Callelongue on the outskirts of Marseille and stretching as far as [[Cassis]], are the [[Calanque]]s, a rugged coastal area interspersed with small [[fjords]]. Further east still are the [[Sainte-Baume]], a {{convert|1147|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} mountain ridge rising from a forest of [[deciduous]] trees, the town of [[Toulon]] and the [[French Riviera]]. To the north of Marseille, beyond the low [[Garlaban]] and Etoile mountain ranges, is the {{convert|1011|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} [[Mont Sainte Victoire]]. To the west of Marseille is the former artists' colony of [[l'Estaque]]; further west are the [[Côte Bleue]], the [[Gulf of Lion]] and the [[Camargue]] region in the [[Rhône River|Rhône]] [[river delta|delta]]. The [[Marseille Provence Airport|airport]] lies to the north west of the city at [[Marignane]] on the [[Etang de Berre]]. The city itself is spread across a wide geographical area divided into 16 [[arrondissement]]s ([[Marseille#Administration|see the map below]]). The central six contain most of the city's historic buildings and its services. The city's main thoroughfare, the wide boulevard called the [[Canebière]], stretches eastward from the [[Old Port of Marseille|Old Port (Vieux Port)]] to the ''Réformés'' quarter. Two large forts flank the entrance to the Old Port - [[Fort St Nicholas]] on the south side and [[Fort Saint-Jean (Marseille)|Fort St Jean]] on the north. Further out in the Bay of Marseille is the [[Frioul archipelago]] which comprises four islands, one of which, [[If (island)|If]], is the location of [[Chateau d'If]], made famous by the [[Alexandre Dumas, père|Dumas]] novel ''[[The Count of Monte Cristo]]''. The main commercial centre of the city intersects with the Canebière at rue St Ferreol and the Centre Bourse (the main shopping mall). The centre of Marseille has several pedestrianized zones, most notably rue St Ferreol, Cours Julien near the Music Conservatory, the Cours Honoré-d'Estienne-d'Orves off the Old Port and the area around the Hotel de Ville. To the south east of central Marseille in the 6th arrondissement are the Prefecture and the monumental fountain of Place Castellane, an important bus and metro interchange. To the south west are the hills of the 7th arrondissement, dominated by the [[basilica]] of [[Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde]]. The railway station - [[Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles]] - is north of the Centre Bourse in the 1st arrondissement; it is linked by the Boulevard d'Athènes to the Canebière. ==History== ===Prehistory and classical antiquity=== [[Image:Marseille hafen.jpg|thumb|left|View from the [[Old Port of Marseilles|Vieux-Port]] towards [[Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde]]]] Humans have inhabited Marseille and its environs for almost 30,000 years: [[palaeolithic]] [[cave painting]]s in the underwater [[Cosquer cave]] near the [[calanque]] of Morgiou date back to between 27,000 and 19,000 BC; and very recent excavations near the railway station have unearthed [[neolithic]] brick habitations from around 6,000 BC.<ref>J. Buisson-Catil, I. Sénépart, ''Marseille avant Marseille. La fréquentation préhistorique du site''. ''Archéologia'', no. 435, July-August 2006, pages 28-31</ref><ref> [http://www.inrap.fr/preventive-archaeology/In_the_News/Press_release/p-1660-Marseille_before_Massalia__the_oldest_Neolithic_un.htm official press release] of INRAP (institut national de recherches archéologiques preventives).</ref> Marseille, the oldest city of [[France]], was founded in 600 BC by Greeks from [[Phocaea]] (as mentioned by [[Thucydides]] Bk1,13) as a trading port under the name Μασσαλία (''Massalia''; see also [[List of traditional Greek place names]]). The precise circumstances and date of founding remain obscure, but nevertheless a legend survives. Protis, while exploring for a new trading outpost or ''emporion'' for Phocaea, discovered the [[Mediterranean]] [[cove]] of the Lacydon, fed by a freshwater stream and protected by two rocky [[promontory|promontories]]. Protis was invited inland to a banquet held by the chief of the local [[Ligurian]] tribe for suitors seeking the hand of his daughter Gyptis in marriage. At the end of the banquet, Gyptis presented the ceremonial cup of wine to Protis, indicating her unequivocal choice. Following their marriage, they moved to the hill just to the north of the Lacydon; and from this settlement grew Massalia.<ref>Marius Dubois, Paul Gaffarel et J.-B. Samat, ''Histoire de Marseille '', Librairie P. Ruat, Marseille, 1913.</ref> Massalia was one of the first Greek ports in Western Europe,<ref> Duchêne & Contrucci (2004).</ref> growing to a population of over 1000. It was the first settlement given city status in France. Facing an opposing alliance of the [[Etruscans]], [[Carthage]] and the [[Celts]], the Greek colony allied itself with the expanding Roman Republic for protection. This protectionist association brought aid in the event of future attacks, and perhaps equally important it also brought the people of Massalia into the complex Roman market. The city throve by acting as a link between inland Gaul, hungry for Roman goods and wine (which Massalia was steadily exporting by 500 B.C.),<ref> Hugh Johnson, ''Vintage: The Story of Wine'' pg 40. Simon and Schuster 1989 </ref> and Rome's insatiable need for new products and slaves. Under this arrangement the city maintained its independence until the rise of [[Julius Caesar]], when it joined the losing side ([[Pompey]] and the [[optimates]]) in [[Caesar's civil war|civil war]], and lost its independence in 49 BC. It was the site of a [[Siege of Massilia|siege and naval battle]] after which the fleet was confiscated by the Roman authorities. During the [[Ancient Rome|Roman]] times the city was called ''Massilia''. It was the home port of [[Pytheas]]. Most of the archaeological remnants of the original Greek settlement were replaced by later Roman additions. Marseille adapted well to its new status under Rome. During the Roman era, the city was controlled by a directory of 15 selected “first” among 600 senators. Three of them had the preeminence and the essence of the executive power. The city's laws amongst other things forbade the drinking of wine by women and allowed by vote of the 600, assistance to allow a person to commit suicide. It was during this time that [[Early Christianity|Christianity]] first appeared in Marseille, as evidenced by [[catacomb]]s above the harbour and records of [[Ancient Rome|Roman]] [[martyrs]]. <ref>[[The Catholic Encyclopedia]], 1913. The martyrdom of [[Victor of Marseilles|St. Victor]] took place under the Roman emperor [[Maximian]].</ref> According to [[Provence|provencal]] [[tradition]], [[Mary Magdalen]] [[Female disciples of Jesus|evangelised]] Marseille with her brother [[Lazarus]]. The [[diocese]] of Marseille was set up in the first century (it became the [[Archdiocese of Marseille]] in 1948). ===Middle Ages and Renaissance=== [[Image:Marseille en 1575.jpg|thumb|right|Marseille in 1575]] With the decline of the Roman Empire, the town fell into the hands of the [[Visigoths]], then was given to the [[Ostrogoths]] after the [[Battle of Vouillé]] in AD 507 to prevent the city from falling to the [[Franks]]. Eventually Frankish kings succeeded in taking the town in the mid 6th century. Emperor [[Charlemagne]] and the [[Carolingian]] dynasty granted civic power to Marseille, which remained a major French trading port until the medieval period. The city regained much of its wealth and trading power when it was revived in the 10th century by the counts of Provence. In 1262, the city revolted under Hugues des Baux, brother of [[Barral of Baux|Barral des Baux]], and [[Bonifaci VI de Castellana]] against the rule of the [[Capetian House of Anjou|Angevins]] but was put down by [[Charles of Anjou|Charles I]].<ref> {{citation|title=The New Cambridge Medieval History|last=Abulafia|first=David|publisher=Cambridge University Press|year=1999|id=ISBN 052136289X}} </ref> In 1348, the city suffered terribly from the [[Black Death|bubonic plague]], which continued to strike intermittently until 1361. As a major port, it is believed Marseille was one of the first places in France to encounter the epidemic, and some 15,000 people died in a city that had a population of 25,000 during its period of economic prosperity in the previous century. <ref> Duchêne and Contrucci (2004), page 182. </ref> The city's fortunes declined still further when it was sacked and pillaged by the [[Aragonese]] in 1423. [[Image:Marseille-Fort Saint-Jean .JPG|thumb|left|The 17C Fort Saint-Jean, incorporating the 12C [[Commandry]] of the [[Knights Hospitaller|Knights Hospitaller of St John]]<ref>Duchene & Contrucci (2004), pages 160-161, 174. This commandry was a monastery belonging to the military religious order of the [[crusader|crusading]] [[Knights Hospitaller]]. Following [[Richard 1|Richard the Lionheart]]'s visit in [[1190]] with the anglo-norman fleet during the [[third crusade]], Marseille became a regular port of call for crusaders.</ref> and the 15C tower of [[Rene I of Naples|René I]].]] Marseille's population and trading status soon recovered and in 1437, the Count of [[Provence]] [[René I of Naples|René of Anjou]], who succeeded his father [[Louis II of Anjou]] as King of [[Sicily]] and Duke of [[Anjou]], arrived in Marseille and established it as France's most fortified settlement outside of Paris.<ref> {{citation|first=Raoul| last= Busquet|last2=Laffont|first2=Robert|title=Histoire de Marseille|publisher=Jeanne Laffitte|year= 1998|id=ISBN 2221087348}} (in French) </ref> He helped raise the status of the town to a city and allowed certain privileges to be granted to it. Marseille was then used by Duke of Anjou as a strategic maritime base to reconquer his kingdom of Sicily. King René, who wished to equip the entrance of the port with a solid defense, decided to build on the ruins of the old Maubert tower and to establish a series of ramparts guarding the harbor. Jean Pardo, engineer, conceived the plans and Jehan Robert, mason of Tarascon, carried out the work. The construction of the new city defenses took place between 1447 and 1453.<ref> {{citation|first =Roger|last=Duchêne|first2=Jean|last2=Contrucci|title=Marseille, 2600 ans d'histoire|publisher=Fayard|year=2004|id=ISBN 2-213-60197-6}}</ref> The trading in Marseille also flourished in this term as the Guild began to establish a position of power within the merchants of the city. Notably, René also founded the Corporation of Fisherman. Marseille was united with [[Provence]] in 1481 and then incorporated in France the following year, but soon acquired a reputation for rebelling against the central government.<ref> {{citation|first =Roger|last=Duchêne|first2=Jean|last2=Contrucci|title=Marseille, 2600 ans d'histoire|publisher=Fayard|year=2004|id=ISBN 2-213-60197-6}} Chronology, page 182, and Part III, Chapters 25-36.</ref> Some 30 years after its incorporation, [[Francois I]] visited Marseille, drawn by his curiosity to see a [[rhinoceros]] that King [[Emmanuel I]] of [[Portugal]] was sending to Pope [[Leo X]], but which had been [[shipwreck]]ed on the Ile d'If. As a result of this visit, the fortress of [[Chateau d'If]] was constructed; this did little to prevent Marseille being placed under siege by the army of the [[Holy Roman Empire]] a few years later.<ref> {{citation|first =Roger|last=Duchêne|first2=Jean|last2=Contrucci|title=Marseille, 2600 ans d'histoire|publisher=Fayard|year=2004|id=ISBN 2-213-60197-6}}</ref> Towards the end of the sixteenth century Marseille suffered yet another outbreak of the plague; the hospital of the Hotel-Dieu was founded soon afterwards. A century later more troubles were in store: King [[Louis XIV]] himself had to descend upon Marseille, at the head of his army, in order to quash a local uprising against the governor.<ref> {{citation| first=Roger|last= Duchêne|first2=Jean|last2=Contrucci|title=Marseille, 2600 ans d'histoire|publisher=Fayard|year=1998|id=ISBN 2213601976}} (in French)</ref> As a consequence, the two forts of St Jean and St Nicholas were erected above the harbour and a large [[fleet]] and [[arsenal]] were established in the harbour itself. ===18th-19th century=== [[Image:Marche-des-marseillois.jpg|thumb|left|La Marseillaise 1792]] Over the course of the eighteenth century, the port's defenses were improved and Marseille became more important as France's leading military port in the Mediterranean. In 1720, the last [[Great Plague of Marseille]], a form of the [[Black Death]], struck down 100,000 people in the city and the surrounding provinces.<ref> Roger Duchêne and Jean Contrucci (2004), Chapter 24, ''La peste'', pages 360-378.</ref> [[Jean-Baptiste Grosson]], royal notary, wrote from 1770 to 1791 the historical Almanac of Marseille, published as ''Recueil des antiquités et des monuments marseillais qui peuvent intéresser l’histoire et les arts'', (“Collection of antiquities and Marseilles monuments which can interest history and the arts”), which for a long time was the primary resource on the history of the monuments of the city. The local population enthusiastically embraced the [[French Revolution]] and sent 500 volunteers to Paris in 1792 to defend the revolutionary government; their rallying call to revolution, sung on their march from Marseille to Paris, became known as ''[[La Marseillaise]]'', now the [[national anthem]] of France. During the nineteenth century the city was the site of industrial innovations and a growth in manufacturing. The rise of the [[French Empire]] and the conquests of France from 1830 onward (notably [[Algeria]]) stimulated the [[maritime trade]] and raised the prosperity of the city. Maritime opportunities also increased with the opening of the [[Suez Canal]] in 1869.<ref>[http://www.bh.org.il/Communities/Archive/Marseilles.asp The Jewish Community of Marseilles, France<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> This period in Marseille's history is reflected in many of its monuments, such as the [[Napoleon I|Napoleonic]] [[obelisk]] at Mazargues and the [[royal]] [[triumphal arch]] in the place d'Aix. ===20th century=== [[Image:Place du Général de Gaulle.jpg|thumb|right|The ''place du Général de Gaulle'' in Marseille.]] During the first half of the twentieth century, Marseille celebrated its trading status and 'port of the empire' status through the colonial exhibitions of 1906 and 1922; the monumental staircase at the [[Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles|railway station]], glorifying [[french colony|French colonial]] conquests, dates from then. In 1934 [[Alexander I of Yugoslavia]] arrived at the port to meet with the French foreign minister [[Louis Barthou]]. He was assassinated there by [[Vlada Georgieff]]. During [[World War II]], Marseille was bombed by the [[Nazi Germany|German]] and the [[Kingdom of Italy (1861–1946)|Italian]] forces in 1940. The city was occupied by Germans from November 1942 to August 1944. A large part of the city's old quarter was dynamited in a massive clearance project, aimed to reduce opportunities for resistance members to hide and operate in the densely populated old buildings. <ref>[http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-12520/Marseille Marseille :: The modern city - Britannica Online Encyclopedia<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> <ref> {{citation| first= Limor|last= Yagil|title=Chrétiens et Juifs sous Vichy, 1940-1944: sauvetage et désobéissance civile|year=2005|publisher=Editions du CERF|id=ISBN 220407585X}}</ref> <ref>{{citation|title=La Gestapo en France|first=Marcel|last= Hasquenoph|year=1975|publisher=De Vecchi}} Operation of Oberg and Bousquet</ref> After the war much of the city was rebuilt during the 1950s. The governments of [[East Germany]], [[West Germany]], and [[Italy]] paid massive [[reparation]]s, plus [[compound interest]], to compensate civilians killed, injured, or left homeless or destitute as a result of the war. From the 1950s onward, the city served as an entrance port for over a million immigrants to France. In 1962 there was a large influx from the newly independent [[Algeria]], including around 150,000 [[pieds-noir]]s.<ref>http://www.unesco.org/most/p97mars.doc</ref> Many immigrants have stayed and given the city a vibrant French-African quarter with a large market. After the oil crisis of 1973 and an economic downturn, Marseille became a haven for [[crime|criminal activity]], and began to experience high levels of [[poverty]]. {{Fact|date=January 2008}} The city has worked to combat these problems, and through plans from the AT in Paris and funds from the [[European Union]], the city has developed a modern and advanced economy based on high technology manufacturing, oil refining and service sector employment. In terms of recent social history, Marseille has served as the home of the new right and the [[Front National (France)|National Front]]. Because of high levels of unemployment and a large immigrant population, Marseille is home to a large population of National Front supporters.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/europe/1938190.stm BBC News report on 2002 NF rally in Marseille]</ref> Politically, from 1950 to the mid 1980s, Marseille was dominated by its mayor [[Gaston Defferre]], who was re-elected six times. The three most recent mayors are listed below: * 1953-1986: [[Gaston Defferre]] ([[Socialist Party (France)|PS]]) (already mayor from 1944 to 1946, re-elected in 1959, 1965, 1971, 1977 and 1983) * 1986-1995: [[Robert Vigouroux]] (RDSE) (re-elected in 1989) * 1995-: [[Jean-Claude Gaudin]] ([[UMP]]) (re-elected in 2001 and 2008) ==Economy== [[Image:Port Autonome de Marseille.JPG|right|thumbnail|250px|The Marseille port seen from Estaque]] Historically, the economy of Marseille was dominated by its role as a port of the [[French Empire]], linking the North African colonies of [[Algeria]], [[Morocco]] and [[Tunisia]] with metropolitan France. The majority of the old port and docks, which experienced decline in the 1970s after the oil crisis, have been recently redeveloped with funds from the [[European Union]]. {{Fact|date=January 2008}} The old port now contains restaurants, offices, bars and hotels and functions mostly as a private marina. [[Fishing]], however, remains important in Marseille and the food economy of Marseille is still dominated by the local catch and a daily fish market is still held at the Belgian Quay at the Old Port. Today, the economy of Marseille is dominated by the New Port, which lies north of the Old Port, a commercial [[container port]] and a transport port for the Mediterranean sea. 100 million tons of [[freight]] pass annually through the port, 60% of which is petroleum, making it number one in France and the Mediterranean and number three in Europe. However, its recent growth in container traffic is being stifled by the constant strikes and social upheaval.<ref>[http://www.ccomptes.fr/CC/documents/Fiches/FichespolitiquePortuaire.pdf Cours de comptes: Les ports de la Manche et de la Mer du Nord]</ref> Major imports include [[petroleum]], [[wine]], [[fruits]], [[olive oil]], hides and skins, and tropical agricultural products. {{Fact|date=February 2008}} Major exports are dominated by wines, liqueurs, processed foods, [[cement]], and metal products. {{Fact|date=February 2008}} Petroleum refining and shipbuilding are the principal industries, but chemicals, [[soap]], [[glass]], [[sugar]], building materials, [[plastics]], [[textiles]], olive oil, and processed foods are also important products. Marseille is connected with the [[Rhône River|Rhône]] via a [[canal]] and thus has access to the extensive waterway network of France. Petroleum is shipped northward to the Paris basin by pipeline. The city also serves as France's leading centre of oil refinement. Marseille is a major French centre for [[trade]] and [[industry]],with excellent transportation infrastructure (roads, sea port and airport). [[Marseille Provence Airport]], is the fourth largest in France. It is the main arrival base for millions of tourists each year as well as serving a growing business community. All three branches of the [[University of Aix-Marseille]] - the [[University of Provence]], the [[University of the Mediterranean]] and [[Paul Cézanne University]] - are represented to varying degrees in both Marseille and [[Aix-en-Provence]]. The economy is closely associated with the Marseille Provence Metropolis, France's second largest research centre with 3000 research scientists. {{Fact|date=January 2008}} Marseille Metropole Provence is home to thousands of companies, 90% of which are small businesses.<ref>[http://www.marseille-provence.com/ Official website of Marseille Metropole Provence]</ref> Among the most famous ones are [[CMA CGM]], container-shipping giant; Comex, world leader in sub-sea engineering and hydraulic systems; [[Eurocopter Group]], an [[EADS]] company; Azur Promotel, an active real estate development company; ''La Provence'', the local daily newspaper; L'[[Olympique de Marseille]], the famous [[soccer]] club; RTM, Marseille's public transport company; and Société Nationale Maritime Corse Méditerranée (SNCM), a major operator in passenger, vehicle and freight transportation in the Western [[Mediterranean]]. In recent years, the city has also experienced a large growth in [[service sector]] employment and a switch from light manufacturing to a cultural, [[high-tech]] economy. {{Fact|date=June 2008}} Marseille acts as a regional nexus for entertainment in the south of France and has a high concentration of museums, cinemas, theaters, clubs, bars, restaurants, fashion shops, hotels, and art galleries, all geared towards a tourist economy. Whilst much of the Marseille economy has been revitalised since its decay in the 1970s it still remains significantly stagnant in regards to growth compared with Paris and the old industrial regions of northeastern France. {{Fact|date=January 2008}} In May 2005, the French financial magazine ''L'Expansion'' named Marseille the most dynamic of France's large cities, citing figures showing that 7,200 companies had been created in the city since 2000.<ref> [http://www.lexpansion.com/economie/les-villes-qui-font-bouger-la-france_23845.html L'Expansion: Les Villes qui font bouger la France] (in French)</ref> ===Employment=== Unemployment in the economy fell from 20% in 1995 to 14% in 2004.<ref>[http://www.polytechnique.fr/eleves/binets/xpassion/article.php?id=28 Interview] with [[Jean-Claude Gaudin]], Mayor of Marseille since 1995, conducted by the [[Ecole Polytechnique]].</ref> However, Marseille remains a city with high unemployment against the national average and suffers a lack of jobs for its large immigrant population. For example, in some parts of Marseille, youth unemployment is reported as high as 40%. <ref>[http://www.nytimes.com/2007/12/19/arts/music/19rap.html?pagewanted=2 Marseille - Rap - Music - New York Times<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> ==Administration== Marseille is divided into 16 [[Municipal arrondissement in France|municipal arrondissement]]s, which are themselves divided into ''quartiers'' (111 in total). The arrondissements are regrouped, in pairs, into 8 sectors, each sector having its own council and town hall (like the arrondissements [[Arrondissements of Paris|in Paris]] and [[Arrondissements of Lyon|in Lyon]]).<ref>[http://www.marseille.fr/vdm/cms/accueil/mairie/mairie_arrondissements Administration and composition of arrondissements (in French)]</ref> The municipal elections of councillors are carried out by sector. There are 303 councillors in total, two thirds sitting on the sector councils and one third on the city council. [[Image:Secteursmarseille.JPG|thumb|left|The sectors and arrondissements of Marseille]] Number of councilors elected by sector: {| border="0" style="border: 1px solid #999; background-color:#FFFFFF" |-align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC" ! Sector ! 1 !! 2 !! 3 !! 4 !! 5 !! 6 !! 7 !! 8 !! Total |----- align="center" ! Sector councillors | 22 || 16 || 22 || 30 || 30 || 26 || 32 || 24 | 202 |----- align="center" ! Municipal councillors | 11 || 8 || 12 || 13 || 15 || 13 || 16 || 12 | 100 |----- align="center" ! Total number of elected officials | 33 || 24 || 34 || 43 || 45 || 39 || 48 || 36 | 302 |} [[Image:Panier-frank.cuny.jpg|thumb|A street in the Panier]] [[Image:Le Grand Escalier.jpg|thumb|A view of the ''boulevard d'Athènes'' from the Saint-Charles railway station]] '''The Sector Mayors''' : * 1st sector (1st and 7th arrondissements): [[Jean Roatta]] (Representative) UMP * 2nd sector (2nd and 3rd arrondissements): [[Lisette Narducci]] (General Councilor) PS * 3rd sector (4th and 5th arrondissements): [[Bruno Gilles]] (representative) UMP * 4th sector (6th and 8th arrondissements): [[Dominique Tian]] (representative) UMP * 5th sector (9th and 10th arrondissements): [[Guy Teissier]] (representative) UMP * 6th sector (11th and 12th arrondissements): [[Roland Blum]] (representative) UMP * 7th sector (13th and 14th arrondissements): [[Garo Hovsepian]] PS * 8th sector (15th and 16th arrondissements): [[Frédéric Dutoit]] (representative) [[French Communist Party|PCF]] '''The cantons of Marseille :''' Marseille holds 25 of the 58 seats at the general council of the [[Bouches-du-Rhône]]. Since the last election, these 25 cantons are held by the following councilors: * [[Canton of Marseille-La Belle-de-Mai|Marseille-La Belle-de-Mai]] (pop. 25,878); General Councilor: [[Lisette Narducci]] PS (Mayor of the 2ème sector de Marseille) * [[Canton of Marseille-Belsunce|Marseille-Belsunce]] (pop. 27,992); General Councilor: [[Fortuné Sportiello]] PS * [[Canton of Marseille-La Blancarde|Marseille-La Blancarde]] (pop. 30,168); General Councilor [[Maurice Di Nocera]] [[Union for French Democracy|UDF]] * [[Canton of Marseille-Le Camas|Marseille-Le Camas]] (pop. 27,506); General Councilor: [[Antoine Rouzaud]] PS (Municipal councilor of Marseille) * [[Canton of Marseille-La Capelette|Marseille-La Capelette]] (pop. 34,292); General Councilor: [[Janine Ecochard]] PS * [[Canton of Marseille-Les Cinq-Avenues|Marseille-Les Cinq-Avenues]] (pop. 29,846); General Councilor: [[Marie-Arlette Carlotti]] PS (Representative européenne) * [[Canton of Marseille-Les Grands-Carmes|Marseille-Les Grands-Carmes]] (pop. 29,060); General Councilor: [[Jean-Noël Guerini]] PS (Sénateur, Président du Conseil Général, Municipal councilor of Marseille) * [[Canton of Marseille-Mazargues|Marseille-Mazargues]] (pop. 35,890); General Councilor: [[Didier Réault]] UMP * [[Canton of Marseille-Montolivet|Marseille-Montolivet]] (pop. 33,644); General Councilor: [[Maurice Rey]] UMP * [[Canton of Marseille - Notre-Dame-du-Mont|Marseille - Notre-Dame-du-Mont]] (pop. 31,107); General Councilor: [[Jocelyn Zeitoun]] PS * [[Canton of Marseille - Notre-Dame-Limite|Marseille - Notre-Dame-Limite]] (pop. 33,472); General Councilor: [[Joël Dutto]] PCF * [[Canton of Marseille-Les Olives|Marseille-Les Olives]] (pop. 27,052); General Councilor: [[Marius Masse]] PS * [[Canton of Marseille-La Pointe-Rouge|Marseille-La Pointe-Rouge]] (pop. 31,116); General Councilor: [[Richard Miron]] UMP * [[Canton of Marseille-La Pomme|Marseille-La Pomme]] (pop. 38,701); General Councilor: [[René Olmeta]] PS (Municipal councilor of Marseille) * [[Canton of Marseille-La Rose|Marseille-La Rose]] (pop. 33,206); General Councilor: [[Félix Weygand]] PS * [[Canton of Marseille - Saint-Barthélemy|Marseille - Saint-Barthélemy]] (pop. 37,629); General Councilor: [[Denis Rossi]] PS (Municipal councilor of Marseille) * [[Canton of Marseille - Sainte-Marguerite|Marseille - Sainte-Marguerite]] (pop. 36,868); General Councilor: [[Didier Garnier]] UMP * [[Canton of Marseille - Saint-Giniez|Marseille - Saint-Giniez]] (pop. 34,621); General Councilor: [[Martine Vassal]] UMP (Adjointe au Maire de Marseille) * [[Canton of Marseille - Saint-Just|Marseille - Saint-Just]] (pop. 32,749); General Councilor: [[Michel Pezet]] PS (Municipal councilor of Marseille) * [[Canton of Marseille - Saint-Lambert|Marseille - Saint-Lambert]] (pop. 26,218); General Councilor: [[Robert Assante]] UMP (Adjoint au Maire de Marseille) * [[Canton of Marseille - Saint-Marcel|Marseille - Saint-Marcel]] (pop. 29,981); General Councilor: [[Jean Bonat]] PS (Municipal councilor of Marseille) * [[Canton of Marseille - Saint-Mauront|Marseille - Saint-Mauront]] (pop. 40,392); General Councilor: [[Jeanine Porte]] PCF * [[Canton of Marseille-Les Trois Lucs|Marseille-Les Trois Lucs]] (pop. 25,324); General Councilor: [[Christophe Masse]] PS (Representative) * [[Canton of Marseille-Vauban|Marseille-Vauban]] (pop. 29,668); General Councilor: [[André Malrait]] UMP * [[Canton of Marseille-Verduron|Marseille-Verduron]] (pop. 35,752). General Councilor: [[Henri Jibrayel]] PS ==Demographics== {| class="wikitable" |+ Marseille Population<ref> [http://splaf.free.fr/fiches.html le Splaf] and [http://www.insee.fr/fr/recensement/nouv_recens/resultats/grandes-villes.htm Insee]</ref> ! 250 BC ! 1801 ! 1851 ! 1881 ! 1911 ! 1931 ! 1946 ! 1954 ! 1962 ! 1968 ! 1975 ! 1982 ! 1990 ! 1999 ! 2005 |----- | {{formatnum:50000}} | {{formatnum:111100}} | {{formatnum:195350}} | {{formatnum:360100}} | {{formatnum:550619}} | {{formatnum:606000}} | {{formatnum:636300}} | {{formatnum:661407}} | {{formatnum:778071}} | {{formatnum:889029}} | {{formatnum:908600}} | {{formatnum:874436}} | {{formatnum:800550}} | {{formatnum:798430}} | {{formatnum:820900}} |-{{ligne grise}} |} ===Immigration=== [[Image:7th-arrondissement-Marseille.jpg|thumb|right|The 7th arrondissement of Marseille]] Because of its pre-eminence as a Mediterranean port, Marseille has always been one of the main points of entry into France. This has attracted many immigrants and made Marseille into a unique cosmopolitan melting pot. By the end of the 18th century about half the population originated from elsewhere. The main group of immigrants came from Italy (mainly from Genoa and Piedmont) as well as from Spain, Greece and the [[Levant]]. {{Fact|date=February 2008}} Economic conditions and political unrest in Europe and the rest of the world brought several further waves of immigrants in the 20th century: Greeks and Italians started arriving at the end of the 19th century and in the first half of the 20th century, up to 40% of the population was of Italian origin <ref name="eu">[http://www.eurofound.europa.eu/pubdocs/2006/31/en/1/ef0631en.pdf Local0631EN:Quality0667EN<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref>; Russians in 1917; Armenians in 1915 and 1923; the Spanish after 1936; north Africans in the inter-war period; sub-saharan Africans after 1945; and the [[Pied-noir|pieds-noirs]] from the former French colonies in Algeria in 1962 and then from the [[Comoros]]. In 2006, it was reported 70,000 citizens were considered to be of Maghrebian origin, mostly from Algeria. The second largest group in Marseille in terms of single nationalities were from the Comoros, amounting to some 45,000 people. <ref name="eu"/> Currently over one third of the population of Marseille can trace their roots back to [[Italy]], the most represented country in the city, even beyond France. Marseille also has the largest [[Corsican]] and second largest [[Armenians|Armenian]] population in France. Other significant communities include [[North African]] [[Arab]]s and [[Berbers]] (25% of the total population), [[Turkish people|Turks]], [[Comoros|Comorians]], [[Chinese people|Chinese]], and [[Vietnamese people|Vietnamese]].<ref>[http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5044219 Diverse Marseille Spared in French Riots]</ref> The main religions practised in Marseille are [[Catholicism]] (600,000), [[Islam]] (between 150,000 and 200,000), [[Armenian Apostolic Church]] (80,000), [[Judaism]] (80,000, making Marseille the third largest urban Jewish community in Europe), [[Protestantism]] (20,000), [[Eastern Orthodoxy]] (10,000) and [[Buddhism]] (3,000).<ref>[http://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/fr/article-imprim.php3?id_article=39997 Marseille Espérance. Tous différents, tous Marseillais]</ref> {{France immigration1 |collectivity_name=the [[city proper]] of Marseille |census_year=1999 |metropolitan_France=78.9 |outside_metropolitan_France=21.1 |overseas_France=0.9 |foreign_French= 8.8 |EU-15=2.1 |non-EU-15=9.3 }} {{France immigration |collectivity_name=the [[aire urbaine|metropolitan area]] of Marseille |census_year=1999 |metropolitan_France=81.2 |outside_metropolitan_France=18.8 |overseas_France=0.7 |foreign_French= [[N/A]] |EU-15=[[N/A]] |non-EU-15=[[N/A]] }} ==Climate== Marseille has a [[Mediterranean climate]], with mild, humid winters and hot, dry summers. January and February are the coldest months, averaging temperatures of around 8 to 9 °C. July and August are the hottest months. The mean summer temperature is around 23 to 24 °C (75 °F). In July the average maximum temperature is around 30°C.<ref>GISS average monthly temperatures 1971 - 2000, Goddard Institute of Space Studies, Boulder, USA</ref> Marseille is known for the [[Mistral (wind)|Mistral]], a harsh cold wind originating in the [[alps]] that occurs mostly in winter and spring. Less frequent is the [[Sirocco]], a hot sand-bearing wind, coming from the [[Sahara desert]]. {| class="wikitable" style="font-size:90%;width:99%;border:0px;text-align:center;line-height:120%;" ! style="background: #99CCCC; color: #000080" height="17" |Month ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | January ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | February ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | March ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | April ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | May ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | June ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | July ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | August ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | September ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | October ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | November ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | December ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" | Year |- ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" |Avg high °C (°F) | style="background: #FFFFCC; color:#000000;" | 11.2 (52.2) | style="background: #FFFFCC; color:#000000;" | 12.6 (54.7) | style="background: #FFFFCC; color:#000000;" | 15.3 (59.5) | style="background: #FFFF99; color:#000000;" | 17.7 (63.9) | style="background: #FFCC66; color:#000000;" | 22.2 (72.0) | style="background: #FF8000; color:#000000;" | 26.1 (79.0) | style="background: #FF8000; color:#000000;" | 29.5 (85.1) | style="background: #FF8000; color:#000000;" | 29.2 (84.6) | style="background: #FF8000; color:#000000;" | 25.3 (77.5) | style="background: #FFCC66; color:#000000;" | 20.3 (68.5) | style="background: #FFFFCC; color:#000000;" | 14.7 (58.5) | style="background: #FFFFCC; color:#000000;" | 12.0 (53.6) | style="background: #FFFF99; color:#000000;" | 19.7 (67.5) |- ! style="background: #99CCCC; color:#000080;" height="16;" |Avg low °C (°F) | style="background: #DDDDDD; color: black;" | 3.0 (37.4) | style="background: #DDDDDD; color: black;" | 3.9 (39.0) | style="background: #DDDDDD; color: black;" | 6.0 (42.8) | style="background: #DDDDDD; color: black;" | 8.5 (47.3) | style="background: #FFFF99; color: black;" | 12.6 (54.7) | style="background: #FFCC66; color: black;" | 16.0 (60.8) | style="background: #FFCC66; color: black;" | 18.7 (65.7) | style="background: #FFCC66; color: black;" | 18.7 (65.7) | style="background: #FFCC66; color: black;" | 15.5 (59.9) | style="background: #FFFF99; color: black;" | 11.6 (52.9) | style="background: #DDDDDD; color: black;" | 6.8 (44.2) | style="background: #DDDDDD; color: black;" | 4.1 (39.4) | style="background: #DDDDDD; color: black;" | 10.5 (51.0) |- | colspan="14" style="text-align:center;font-size:90%;"|''Source: [http://www.worldweather.org/062/c01055.htm&refer= Worldweather.org]'' |} ==Culture== [[Image:Paul Cézanne 035.jpg|thumb|left|Paul Cézanne: The bay of Marseille from l'Estaque.]] Marseille is a city that is proud of its differences from the rest of France. Today it is a regional centre for culture and entertainment with its important opera house, its historical and maritime museums, its five art galleries and numerous cinemas, clubs, bars and restaurants. The most commonly used [[Tarot (disambiguation)|tarot]] deck comes from Marseille; it is called the ''[[Tarot of Marseilles|Tarot de Marseille]]'', and was used to play the local variant of [[tarocchi]] before it became used in [[cartomancy]]. Another local tradition is the making of [[santons]], small hand-crafted figurines for the traditional [[Provence|Provencal]] Christmas [[Nativity Scene|creche]]. Since 1803, starting on the last Sunday of November, there has been a Santon Fair in Marseille; it is currently held in the Cours d'Estienne d'Orves, a large square off the Vieux-Port. Marseille has a large number of [[theatre]]s, including la Criée, le Gymnase and the theatre Tourski. There is also an extensive arts centre in la Friche, a former match factory behind Gare St-Charles. The Alcazar, until the 1960s a well known [[music-hall]] and [[variety theatre]], has recently been completely remodelled behind its original facade and now houses the central municipal library. Marseille has also been important in literature and the arts. It has been the birth place and home of many French writers and poets, including from modern times Victor Gélu, Valère Bernard, Pierre Bertas, [[Edmond Rostand]] and [[André Roussin]]. The small port of [[l'Estaque]] on the far end of the Bay of Marseille became a favourite haunt for artists, including [[Auguste Renoir]], [[Paul Cézanne]] (who frequently visited from his home in [[Aix-en-Provence|Aix]]), [[George Braque]] and [[Raoul Dufy]]. [[Image:Marseilles opera house.jpg|thumb|right|The Opera House.]] ===Opera=== Marseille's main cultural attraction was, since its creation at the end of the 18th century and until the late 1970s, the [[Opéra de Marseille|Opéra]]. Located near the Old Port and the Canebière, at the very heart of the city, its architectural style was comparable to the classical trend found in other opera houses built at the same time in [[Lyon]] and [[Bordeaux]]. In 1919, a fire almost completely destroyed the building, leaving only the stone [[colonnade]] and [[peristyle]] from the original facade.<ref>[http://www.capsuropera.com/seasonschedules.php Opera in Genoa, Nice, Marseille, Montpellier, Barcelona<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref><ref>[http://www.schmap.com/marseille/sights_6tharrond/ Schmap Marseille Sights & Attractions - 6th arrond<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> The classical facade was restored and the opera house reconstructed in a predominantly [[Art Deco]] style, as the result of a major competition: for example, [[Antoine Bourdelle]] worked on the frescos on the [[proscenium arch]]. Currently the Marseille Opera stages 6 or 7 operas each year, covering the whole range of opera from baroque to newly commissioned works. The season, by subscription, lasts from September to June. ===Hip hop music=== Marseille is also well known in France for its [[Hip hop music]]. Groups like [[IAM (band)|IAM]] originated from Marseille initiated the [[rap music]] phenomena in France. Other known groups include [[Fonky Family]], [[3ème Oeil]], and [[Psy4 de la rime]]. ===Films set in Marseille=== Marseille has been the setting for many films, produced mostly in [[France]] or [[Hollywood]]. [[Image:Jean_Dodal_Tarot_trump_13.jpg|thumb|right|Marseille tarot card]] * ''[[Marius (film)|Marius]]'' (1931) * ''[[Fanny (1961 film)|Fanny]]'' (1961) * ''[[The French Connection (film)|The French Connection]]'' (1971) * ''[[The Marseille Contract]]'' (1974) * ''[[French Connection II]]'' (1975) * ''[[La Lune dans le caniveau]]'' (1983) * ''[[37°2 le matin]]'' (1986) * ''[[Trois places pour le 26]]'' (1988) * ''[[Roselyne et les lions]]'' (1989) * ''[[My Father's Glory]]'' (1990) * ''[[Un, deux, trois, soleil]]'' (1993) * ''[[Bye-Bye (film)|Bye-Bye]]'' (1995) * ''[[Marius et Jeannette]]'' (1997) * ''[[Taxi (1998 film)|Taxi]]'' (1998) * ''[[Comme un aimant]]'' (2000) * ''[[Baise-moi]]'' (2000) * ''[[Taxi 2]]'' (2000) * ''[[The Bourne Identity (2002 film)|The Bourne Identity]] '' (2002) * ''[[The Count of Monte Cristo (2002 film)|Count of Monte Cristo]]'' (2002) * ''[[Gomez & Tavarès]]'' (2003) * ''[[Love Actually]]'' (2003) * ''[[Taxi 3]]'' (2003) * ''[[Taxi 4]]'' (2006) ===Gastronomy=== [[Image:Soupe de poisson Rouille.JPG|thumb|right|Fish soup with [[rouille]]]] [[Image:Espadon Ratatouille.JPG|thumb|left|[[Swordfish]] in [[olive oil]] with [[ratatouille]] and [[saffron]] rice]] *[[Pastis]], an [[alcoholic]] [[beverage]] made with [[aniseed]] and spice *[[Aïoli]], a sauce made from raw [[garlic]], [[lemon juice]], [[Egg (food)|egg]]s and olive oil, served with boiled fish, [[hard boiled egg]]s and cooked vegetables<ref>{{citation|firs<t=Elizabeth|last=David|title=French Provincial Cooking|publisher=Penguin Classics|year=1999|id=ISBN 0141181532}}</ref> *[[Tapenade]], a paste made from [[caper]]s, chopped olives and [[olive oil]] (sometimes [[anchovies]] may be added) *[[Bouillabaisse]], a fish soup containing assorted shellfish, fish and vegetables, served with [[rouille]], toasted bread (''croûtes'') and often grated cheese <ref>{{citation|first=Elizabeth|last=David|title=French Provincial Cooking|publisher=Penguin Classics|year=1999|id=ISBN 0141181532}}</ref> <ref>{{citation| first=Clifford| last=Wright|title=Real Stew|year=2002|publisher=Harvard Common Press|id=ISBN 1558321993}}</ref> *Anchoïade, a paste made from anchovies, garlic, black olives and olive oil, served with raw vegetables *Panisse, a pastry made from [[chickpea]] flour *Navette, a small hard biscuit in the shape of a boat, flavoured with orange blossom<ref>[http://fourdesnavettes.com Le Four des Navettes], manufacturers of navettes since 1781.</ref> *Bourride, a fish dish made with [[monkfish]], [[mayonnaise]] and a vegetable [[brunoise]] <ref>{{citation| first=Richard| last=Olney|year=2002|title=Lulu's Provencal Table|publisher=Ten Speed Press|id= ISBN 1580084001}}</ref> *Pieds-paquets, a dish prepared from pig's [[trotters]], sheep or pork [[tripe]] and [[lard]] == Main sights == === Central Marseille === [[Image:IMG 6950.jpg|thumb|right|La Vieille Charité.]] [[Image:Tours de St-Victor.jpg|thumb|right|The Abbey of St Victor.]] Marseille is listed as a major centre of art and history. The city boasts many museums and galleries. There are many ancient buildings and churches of historical interest. Most of the attractions of Marseille (including shopping areas) are located in the 1st, 2nd, 6th and 7th arrondissements. These include:<ref>{{citation|last=Cannon|first=Gwen|title=Provence|year=2006|publisher= Michelin Travel Publications|id= ISBN 206711929X}}</ref><ref>[http://www.marseille.fr/vdm/jsp/index.jsp Official website of the City of Marseille]</ref> *The Old Port or Vieux-Port, the main harbour and marina of the city. It is guarded by two massive forts (Fort St Nicolas and Fort Saint Jean) and is one of the main places to eat in the city. Dozens of cafés line the waterfront. The Quai des Belges at the end of the harbour is the site of the daily fish market. Much of the northern quayside area was rebuilt by the architect Fernand Pouillon after its destruction by the [[Nazi]]s in 1943. * The [[Phare de Sainte Marie]], a lighthouse on the inlet to the Old Port. * [[La Vieille Charité]] in the ''Panier'', an architecturally significant building designed by the Puget brothers. The central baroque chapel is situated in a courtyard lined with arcaded galleries. Originally built as an [[alms house]], it is now home to an archeological museum and a gallery of African and Asian art, as well as bookshops and a café. * The Centre Bourse and the adjacent rue St Ferreol district (including rue du Rome and rue Paradis), the main shopping area in central Marseille. (The other two major shopping complexes in Marseille are at la Valentine and le Grand Littoral.) * The Musée d'Histoire, the Marseille historical museum, located in the Centre Bourse. It contains records of the Greek and Roman history of Marseille as well as the best preserved hull of a 6th century boat in the world. [[Phocaea|Ancient]] remains from the [[hellenic]] port are displayed in the adjacent archeological gardens, the ''Jardin des Vestiges''. * The Palais de la [[Bourse]], a 19th century building housing the [[chamber of commerce]], the first such institution in France. It also contains a small museum, charting the maritime and commercial history of Marseille, as well as a separate collection of models of ships. * The Musée de la Mode, a museum of modern fashion which displays over 2000 designs from the last 30 years. * The Musée Cantini, a museum of modern art near the Palais de Justice. It houses artworks associated with Marseille as well as several works by [[Picasso]]. * The Pierre Puget park. * The [[Hôtel-Dieu]], a former hospital in the ''Panier'', currently being transformed into an [[InterContinental]] hotel. * The [[St. Victor's Abbey, Marseilles|Abbey]] of [[Saint Victor of Marseilles|Saint-Victor]], one of the oldest places of Christian worship in France. Its early fifth century [[crypt]] and [[catacombs]] occupy the site of a [[hellenic]] burial ground, later used for [[Early Christianity|Christian]] [[martyr]]s and venerated ever since. Continuing a [[Mary Magdalene#In the West|medieval tradition]],<ref>[http://www.marseille-tourisme.com/servlet/otcm?statique=dec_villetrad_chand.htm&LANGUE=2&menu&dist=1GP Candelmas at St Victor, Marseille Tourist Office]</ref> every year at [[Candlemas]] a [[Black Madonna]] from the crypt is carried in procession along rue Sainte for a blessing from the archbishop, followed by a mass and the distribution of "[[Marseille#Gastronomy|navettes]]" and green [[votive candle]]s. * The Hotel de Ville (the Town Hall), a [[baroque]] building from the seventeenth century. * The Museum of Old Marseille, housed in the 16C Maison Diamantée, describing everyday life in Marseille from the eighteenth century onwards. * The Cathedral of Sainte-Marie-Majeure or la Major, founded in the 4th century, enlarged in the 11th century and completely rebuilt in the second half of the 19th century by the architects [[Léon Vaudoyer]] and [[Jacques Henri Esperandieu]]. The present day cathedral is a gigantic edifice in the Romano-Byzantine style. A [[Romanesque architecture|romanesque]] [[transept]], [[choir]] and [[altar]] survive from the older medieval cathedral, spared from complete destruction only as a result of public protests at the time. * The 12C [[parish church]] of [[Saint-Laurent]] and adjoining 17C chapel of [[Sainte-Catherine]], on the quayside near the Cathedral, recently reopened after restoration.<ref>[http://www.marseille-tourisme.com/en/in-marseille/that-to-make/heritage/the-cathedrals/ St Laurent and St Catherine]</ref> ===Outside of Central Marseille=== [[Image:Calanques.jpg|thumb|left|The [[Calanque]] of Sugiton in the 9th arrondissement of Marseille.]] * The nineteenth century Basilica of [[Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde]], built by the architect Esperandieu, is an enormous Romano-Byzantine basilica in the hills to the south of the Old Port. The terrace offers spectacular panoramic views of Marseille and its surroundings. * The [[Stade Vélodrome]], the home stadium of the Marseille [[football (soccer)|football]] team "OM", [[Olympique de Marseille]]. * The [[Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles|Gare Saint-Charles]], the main railway station. Below it is the [[royal]] [[Porte d'Aix]] (1784-1837), a giant [[triumphal arch]], at the [[crossroads (culture)|crossroads]] to [[Aix-en-Provence|Aix]]. * The [[Unité d'Habitation]], an influential experimental building designed by the Swiss architect [[Le Corbusier]] in the late forties * The Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Natural History Museum are housed in the two wings of the nineteenth century Palais Longchamp, also designed by Esperandieu. Built on a grand scale, this [[italianate]] [[colonnade]]d building rises up behind a vast monumental fountain with cascading waterfalls. The [[jeux d'eau]] marks and masks the entry point of the Canal de Provence into Marseille. * The Grobet-Labadié museum, opposite the Palais Longchamp, houses an exceptional collection of European [[objet d'art|objets d'art]] and old [[musical instrument]]s. * The parc Borély, a park off the Bay of Marseille with [[botanical garden]]s. * The Musée de Faience, a ceramics museum in the Chateau Pastré near the parc Borely. * The parc Chanot, an exhibition centre. * The Pharo Gardens, a park with views of the Mediterranean and the Old Port. * The Corniche, a picturesque waterfront road between the Old Port and the Bay of Marseille. * The Museum of Contemporary Art, devoted to American and European art from the 1960s to the present day. * The local beaches at the Prado, Pointe Rouge, les Goudes, Callelongue, and le Prophète. * The Musée du Terroir Marseillais in Chateau-Gombert, devoted to provencal crafts and traditions. * The [[calanques]] and Marseilleveyre, a wild mountainous coastal area of outstanding natural beauty, accessible from Callelongue, Luminy, Sormiou, Morgiou and Cassis. * The islands of the [[Frioul archipelago]] in the Bay of Marseille, accessible by ferry from the Old Port. The prison of [[Château d'If]] was the setting for the [[Count of Monte Cristo]], the novel by [[Alexandre Dumas, père|Alexandre Dumas]]. The neighbouring islands of Ratonneau and Pomègues are joined by a man-made [[breakwater]]. The site of a former garrison and quarantine hospital, these islands are also of interest for their marine wildlife. [[Image:Marseille Panorama NDDLG NorthWest JD 12082007.jpg|thumb|center|600px|Panorama of Marseille from [[Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde]].]] ==Transport== [[Image:Marseille Autoroutes.svg|thumb|right|Motorways around Marseille.]] The city is served by an international airport, [[Marseille Provence Airport]], located in [[Marignane]]. The airport has two terminals. Terminal one, the main terminal of the airport contains halls 1,2,3 and 4 and serves as a base for international arrivals and departures. The new terminal, referred to as Marseille Mp2 is used for flights arriving and departing from Europe. A shuttle coach system operates between the airport and the railway station, [[Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles]]. An extensive network of motorways connects Marseille to the north and west ([[A7 autoroute|A7]]), Aix-en-Provence in the north ([[A51 autoroute|A51]]) , Toulon ([[A50 autoroute|A50]]) and the [[French Riviera]] ([[A8 autoroute|A8]]) to the east. [[Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles]] is Marseille's main [[train station|railway station]]. It operates direct regional services to cities such as [[Nice]], [[Toulouse]] and [[Bordeaux]], as well as a service to [[Barcelona]]. (The northerly single track line to [[Briancon]] via [[Aix-en-Provence]] is currently partially closed during modernisation.) Gare Saint-Charles is also one of the main terminal stations for the [[TGV]] in the south of France making Marseille reachable in three hours from Paris (a distance of over 750 km). and just over one and a half hours from Lyon. There is also a direct TGV line to [[Strasbourg]]. [[Image:Marseille1.jpg|thumb|left|The new tramway.]] There is a long distance [[bus station]], still under construction, adjacent to Gare Saint-Charles with destinations mostly in the [[Bouches-du-Rhône]]. Temporarily buses to [[Aix-en-Provence]] depart from the nearby [[Porte d'Aix]]. Other buses to [[Cassis]], [[La Ciotat]] and [[Aubagne]] depart from Castellane. Marseille has a large [[ferry terminal]], the [http://www.marseille-port.fr/site2005/voyageurs/lignesregulieres/index.htm Gare Maritime], with services to [[Corsica]], [[Sardinia]], [[Algeria]] and [[Tunisia]]. A ferry service on a quite different scale operates between the two opposite quays of the Old Port. Marseille itself is connected by the [[Marseille Metro|metro]] train system operated by the ''[[Régie des transports de Marseille]]'' (RTM). It consists of 2 lines represented by orange and blue. Line 1 (blue) between Castellane and La Rose opened in 1977 and Line 2 (orange) between Sainte-Marguerite/Dromel and Bougainville opened between 1984 and 1987. An extension to Line 1 from Castellane to La Timone was completed in 1992. The Metro system operates on a turnstile system, with tickets purchased at the nearby adjacent automated booths. Both lines of the Metro intersect at Gare Saint-Charles and Castellane. An extensive bus network serves the city and suburbs of Marseille. The first phase of a new [[Tramway de Marseille|tramway]] <ref>[http://www.le-tram.fr/ Official website of the Marseille tramway]</ref>, going eastwards from the port towards St Barnabé, was opened in July 2007. As in many other French cities, a short-term bicycle hire scheme nicknamed "le vélo", free for trips of less than half an hour, has recently been put in place by the town council.<ref>[http://www.levelo-mpm.fr/ Website for Le vélo.]</ref> ==Sport== [[Image:Stade Velodrome.JPG|thumb|right|The Stade Velodrome.]] The city boasts a wide variety of sports facilities and teams. The most popular team is the city's [[football club]], [[Olympique de Marseille]], which was the [[UEFA Champions League]] winner in 1993 and finalist of the UEFA Cup in 1999 and 2004. The club has a history of success but was tainted in the 1990s by a [[match-fixing]] scandal by then-owner [[Bernard Tapie]]. The club's home, the [[Stade Vélodrome]], also functions for other local sports, as well as [[France national rugby union team|national rugby team]] Tests. Stade Velodrome hosted a number of games during the [[2007 Rugby World Cup]]. The local rugby team is [[Marseille Provence XV]]. [[Sailing]] is a major sport in Marseille. The winds can blow from different directions and allow interesting regattas in the warm waters of the [[Mediterranean]]. Most of the time it can be windy while the sea remains smooth enough to allow sailing. It was considered as a possible site for 2007 [[Americas Cup]].<ref>[http://www.newsweek.com/id/46140 Sailing to Success | Newsweek.com<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> Marseille is also a place for other water sports such as [[windsurfing]] and [[powerboating]]. Marseille has three [[golf course]]s to its north and north east. The city has dozens of gyms and several council owned [[swimming pool]]s. Running is also popular in many of Marseille's parks such as Le Pharo and Le Jardin Pierre Puget. Marseille was the finish of Stage 10 and the departure of Stage 11 in the [[2007 Tour de France]]. ==Births and deaths in Marseille== [[Image:Daumier-sunday-at-the-museum.jpg|thumb|right|Honoré Daumier: Sunday at the Museum]] [[Image:Edmond Rostand en habit vert 01.jpg|thumb|right|Edmond Rostand]] Marseille was the birthplace of: *[[Pytheas]] (4th century BC) Greek merchant, geographer and explorer *[[Antonin Artaud]] (1897-1948), author *[[Maurice Béjart]] (1927-2007), ballet choreographer *[[Jean-Henry Gourgaud]], aka. "Dugazon" (1746-1809), actor *[[Désirée Clary]] (1777-1860), wife of King [[Charles XIV of Sweden|Carl XIV Johan of Sweden]], and therefore ''Queen Desirée'' or ''Queen Desideria of Sweden'' *[[Adolphe Thiers]] (1797-1877), first president of the [[French Third Republic|Third Republic]] *[[Étienne Joseph Louis Garnier-Pages]] (1801-1841), politician *[[Honoré Daumier]] (1808-1879), [[caricaturist]] and painter *[[Joseph Autran]] (1813-1877), poet *[[Charles-Joseph-Eugene de Mazenod]] (1782-1861), [[bishop of Marseille]] and Founder of the [[Missionary Oblates of Mary Immaculate]]. *[[Marius Petipa]] (1818-1910), ballet choreographer *[[Olivier Émile Ollivier]] (1825-1913), statesman *Joseph Pujol, aka. "[[Le Pétomane]]" (1857-1945), entertainer *[[Pavlos Melas]] (1870-1904) Greek army officer *[[Paul Mauriat]] (1925), orchestra leader, composer *[[Edmond Rostand]] (1868-1918), poet and dramatist *[[Vincent Scotto]] (1876-1952), guitarist, songwriter <ref>[http://www.musicweb-international.com/classrev/2006/Nov06/Scotto_operettas_4762107.htm SCOTTO Opérettes Marseillaises Accord 4762107 [RW&#93;: Classical CD Reviews - November 2006 MusicWeb-International<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> *[[Fernandel]] (1903-1971), actor *[[Éliane Browne-Bartroli]] (Eliane Plewman, 1917-1944), [[French Resistance]], Croix de Guerre *[[Louis Jourdan]] (born 1919), actor *[[Jean Pierre Rampal]] (1922-2000), ''flûtiste'' *[[Régine Crespin]] (1927-2007), opera singer *[[André di Fusco]] (1932-2001), known as [[André Pascal]], song writer, composer *[[Georges Chappe]] (born 1944), cyclist *[[Jean-Claude Izzo]] (1945-2000), author *[[Eric Cantona]] (born 1966), [[Manchester United]] and [[France national football team|French national team]] football player *[[Patrick Fiori]] (born 1969), singer *[[Marc Panther]] (born 1970), member of the popular Japanese rock band [[Globe (band)|globe]] *[[Zinedine Zidane]] (born 1972), professional [[football (soccer)|football]] player and former captain of the [[France national football team|French national team]] *[[Romain Barnier]] (born 1976), freestyle swimmer *[[Sébastien Grosjean]] (born 1978), tennis player *[[Mathieu Flamini]] (born 1984), football player * [[Rémy Di Gregorio]] (born 1985), cyclist The following personalities died in Marseille: *French poet [[Arthur Rimbaud]] on [[November 10]], [[1891]]. *King [[Alexander I of Yugoslavia]] was assassinated on [[October 9]] [[1934]] in Marseille along with French Foreign Minister [[Louis Barthou]]. ==Twinned cities== Marseille is currently officially [[twin town|twinned]] with thirteen cities:<ref>[http://www.marseille.fr/vdm/cms/accueil/mairie/international/pid/185 Twinned cities (in french)]</ref> *{{flagicon|Ivory Coast}} [[Abidjan]], [[Ivory Coast]]. *{{flagicon|Belgium}} [[Antwerp]], [[Belgium]]. *{{flagicon|Denmark}} [[Copenhagen]], [[Denmark]]. *{{flagicon|Senegal}} [[Dakar]], [[Senegal]]. *{{flagicon|Italy}} [[Genoa]], [[Italy]]. *{{flagicon|Scotland}} [[Glasgow]], [[Scotland]], [[United Kingdom]]<ref>Although Scotland is not a sovereign nation, the country listed on the official homepage of Marseille is "Scotland" (fr:"Ecosse")</ref> *{{flagicon|Israel}} [[Haifa]], [[Israel]]. *{{flagicon|Germany}} [[Hamburg]], [[Germany]]. *{{flagicon|Japan}} [[Kobe]], [[Japan]]. *{{flagicon|Morocco}} [[Marrakech]], [[Morocco]]. *{{flagicon|Ukraine}} [[Odessa]], [[Ukraine]]. *{{flagicon|Greece}} [[Piraeus]], [[Greece]]. *{{flagicon|China}} [[Shanghai]], [[People's Republic of China|China]]. In addition Marseille has signed various types of formal agreements of cooperation with 28 cities all over the world: <ref>[http://www.marseille.fr/vdm/cms/accueil/mairie/international/pid/186 Agreements of cooperation (in French)]</ref> *{{flagicon|Morocco}} [[Agadir]], [[Morocco]]. *{{flagicon|Egypt}} [[Alexandria]], [[Egypt]]. *{{flagicon|Algeria}} [[Algiers]], [[Algeria]]. *{{flagicon|Mali}} [[Bamako]], [[Mali]]. *{{flagicon|Spain}} [[Barcelona]], [[Spain]]. *{{flagicon|Lebanon}} [[Beirut]], [[Lebanon]]. *{{flagicon|South Africa}} [[Cape Town]], [[South Africa]]. *{{flagicon|Morocco}} [[Casablanca]], [[Morocco]]. *{{flagicon|Armenia}} [[Yerevan]], [[Armenia]]. *{{flagicon|Poland}} [[Gdansk]], [[Poland]]. *{{flagicon|Turkey}} [[Istanbul]], [[Turkey]]. *{{flagicon|Turkey}} [[Izmit]], [[Turkey]]. *{{flagicon|Israel}} [[Jerusalem]], [[Israel]]. *{{flagicon|Cyprus}} [[Limassol]], [[Cyprus]]. *{{flagicon|Togo}} [[Lome]], [[Togo]]. *{{flagicon|France}} [[Lyon]], [[France]]. *{{flagicon|Morocco}} [[Meknes]], [[Morocco]]. *{{flagicon|Uruguay}} [[Montevideo]], [[Uruguay]]. *{{flagicon|Chad}} [[N'Djamena]], [[Chad]]. *{{flagicon|France}} [[Nice]], [[France]]. *{{flagicon|France}} [[Nimes]], [[France]]. *{{flagicon|Morocco}} [[Rabat]], [[Morocco]]. *{{flagicon|Bosnia-Herzegovina}} [[Sarajevo]], [[Bosnia-Herzegovina]]. *{{flagicon|Tunisia}} [[Sousse]], [[Tunisia]]. *{{flagicon|Greece}} [[Salonica]], [[Greece]]. *{{flagicon|Albania}} [[Tirana]], [[Albania]]. *{{flagicon|Libya}} [[Tripoli]], [[Libya]]. *{{flagicon|Tunisia}} [[Tunis]], [[Tunisia]]. == Gallery == <gallery> Image:Marseille-iles-frioul.jpg|The Frioul Archipelago Image:20030614-204 Marseille Château d'If From Ferry.jpg|Chateau d'If Image:Corniche Marseille.jpg|The Corniche Image:Monumentterres_lointaines.jpg|War Memorial on the Corniche Image:marseille.arp.750pix.jpg|A view onto the Old Port Image:COURS HONORE D'ESTIENNE D'ORVES.JPG|Cours Estienne d'Orves next to the Old Port Image:Marseille Fort Saint Nicolas.jpg|The Fort Saint Nicolas, overlooking the harbour on the left bank Image:Vallon_des_Auffes.jpg|The Vallon des Auffes off the Corniche Image:NotreDameDeLaGarde@Night_JD.jpg|Notre Dame de la Garde at night Image:NotreDameDeLaGarde_Statue1.jpg|The statue of Mary with child on top of the Notre Dame de la Garde Image:Église des Réformés.jpg|The ''Église des Réformés'' church Image:Jeanne d'arc Marseille.jpg|Joan of Arc statue in Marseille. Image:Musée des Beaux Arts Marseille.jpg|Musée des Beaux Arts, Marseille. Image:Marseille Palais Longchamp At Night JD 22052007.jpg|The Palais Longchamp at night Image:Marseille_-_Le_jardin_des_vestiges.JPG|Le Jardin des Vestiges next to the Centre Bourse Image:Garesaintcharles.jpg|Gare Saint-Charles, the main railway station Image:Panier2-franck.cuny.jpg|Street in the Panier Image:Marseille VP Hotel de Ville JD 11082007.jpg|The Hotel de Ville Image:Panier-problog.jpg|The Panier seen from the Vieux-Port Image:Marseille - Le Panier.JPG|Street in the Panier Image:Cathedralmajormarseille.jpg|The Cathedral de la Major Image:Fort-Saint-Jean.jpg|The Fort St Jean Image:Eglise-saint-laurent-moussechan.jpg|The Church of St Laurent Image:Palais-du-Pharo-moussechan.jpg|The Pharo Image:Stairway of Hôtel-Dieu in Marseille 3.jpg|Staircase in the Hotel-Dieu Image:DSC_0871TheatreDuGymnase.jpg|Theatre du Gymnase Image:Alcazar-Marseille.JPG|The Alcazar, before and after Image:Cours-julien-bryce-edwards.jpg|The bohemian Cours Julien and la Plaine </gallery> ==See also == * [[Marseille Marine Fire Battalion]] * [[Stade Vélodrome]] * [[The Count of Monte Cristo]] * [[Marseille soap]] ==Footnotes== {{Reflist|2}} == References == <div class="references-small"> *{{citation|first= Roger |last=Duchêne |first2=Jean|last2= Contrucci |year=2004|title=Marseille, 2600 ans d'histoire|publisher=Editions Fayard|id=ISBN 2-213-60197-6}} *{{citation|first= H.V.|last= Savitch |first2=Paul|last2= Kantor |year=2002|title=Cities in the International Market Place: The Political Economy of Urban Development in North America and Western Europe|publisher=Princeton University Press|id=ISBN 0691091595}} *{{citation|first= Michel |last=Peraldi |first2=Michel|last2= Samson |year=2006|title=Gouverner Marseille : Enquête sur les mondes politiques marseillais|publisher=Editions La Découverte|id=ISBN 2707149640}} </div> ==External links== * [http://www.marseille.fr/ Official website] {{fr icon}} * [http://www.marseille-tourisme.com/ Official tourism website] * [http://www.marseillenet.com Interactive virtual tour] * [http://www.urbanrail.net/eu/mar/marseil.htm Metro public transport] * [http://www.ancientworlds.net/aw/Places/Place/411375 AncientWorlds.net Massilia] * [http://www.parisvudavion.com/default.asp?param=§002C004700EE019501CD020102350269029E02D60304033D037103A303D9040E0447047C04B004E505200551058905BA05EC061E0654068C06BA06F20728075F079807C907FA082E086908A108D6090A0942097909AB09D90A120A460A760AA90ADD0B0E0B420B780BAD0BE80C190C510C820CB90CEE0D1E0D4E0D7C0DAF0DE40E150E450E7C0EAE0EE70F1A Aerial Map of Marseille] {{fr icon}} *[http://www.marseilleforum.com/photos-de-marseille_0.htm Extensive ''Creative Commons'' phototeque of Marseille and its environs] {{Commons|Marseille}} {{Préfectures of départements of France}} {{Préfectures of régions of France}} {{Marseille}} {{Bouches-du-Rhône communes}} [[Category:Marseille| ]] [[Category:Communes of Bouches-du-Rhône]] [[Category:Coastal cities]] [[Category:Port cities of the Mediterranean Sea]] [[Category:Orthodox Jewish communities]] [[Category:Settlements established in the 1st millennium BC]] [[af:Marseille]] [[ar:مرسيليا]] [[an:Marsella]] [[frp:Marselye]] [[bar:Marseille]] [[bs:Marseille]] [[br:Marselha]] [[bg:Марсилия]] [[ca:Marsella]] [[cv:Марсель]] [[ceb:Marseille]] [[cs:Marseille]] [[cy:Marseille]] [[da:Marseille]] [[de:Marseille]] [[et:Marseille]] [[el:Μασσαλία]] [[es:Marsella]] [[eo:Marsejlo]] [[eu:Marseilla]] [[fa:مارسی]] [[fr:Marseille]] [[ga:Marseille]] [[gl:Marsella - Marseille]] [[ko:마르세유]] [[hy:Մարսել]] [[hi:मार्सैय]] [[hr:Marseille]] [[io:Marseille]] [[id:Marseille]] [[is:Marseille]] [[it:Marsiglia]] [[he:מרסיי]] [[ka:მარსელი]] [[ku:Marsêy]] [[lad:Marseya]] [[la:Massilia]] [[lv:Marseļa]] [[lb:Marseille]] [[lt:Marselis]] [[lij:Marsiggia]] [[lmo:Marsija]] [[hu:Marseille]] [[nl:Marseille]] [[ja:マルセイユ]] [[no:Marseille]] [[nn:Marseille]] [[nrm:Marsêle]] [[oc:Marselha]] [[pms:Marsèja]] [[nds:Marseille]] [[pl:Marsylia]] [[pt:Marselha]] [[ro:Marsilia]] [[qu:Marseille]] [[ru:Марсель]] [[sq:Marseille]] [[scn:Marsigghia]] [[simple:Marseille]] [[sk:Marseille]] [[sl:Marseille]] [[sr:Марсеј]] [[sh:Marseille]] [[fi:Marseille]] [[sv:Marseille]] [[kab:Marseille]] [[th:มาร์เซย์]] [[vi:Marseille]] [[tr:Marsilya]] [[uk:Марсель]] [[vec:Marseja]] [[vo:Marseille]] [[vls:Marseille]] [[zh:马赛]]