Metz 57906 223257286 2008-07-03T08:02:31Z Knepflerle 5136617 Mèttis not current French, P.d.Allemands is called... P.d.Allemands, and thereąs far more to Metz' modern history than revanchism. {{French commune |native_name = Ville de Metz |common_name = Metz |image = [[Image:Cathedrale metz 2003.jpg|220px]] |caption = Cathedral St. Etienne in Metz |image_flag = Metz flag.svg |image_flag_size = 100px |image_coat_of_arms = Blason Metz 57.svg |image_coat_of_arms_size = 100px |flag_legend = City flag |Coat_of_arms_legend = City coat of arms |city_motto = ''Si paix dedans, paix dehors''<br /><small> ([[French language|French]]: If peace inside, peace outside)</small> |image_map = France_jms.png |x = 208 |y = 67 |time zone = CET <small>(GMT +1)</small> |lat_long = {{coor dms|49|07|13|N|6|10|40|E|type:city(2144700)_region:FR}} |region = [[Lorraine (region)|Lorraine]] |departement = [[Moselle]] (57) |arrondissement = Metz-Ville |intercomm = [[Metz Métropole]] |mayor = Dominique Gros |party = [[Socialist Party (France)|PS]] |mandat = 2008-2014 |area = [[1 E7 m²|41.9]] |date-population = 2005 |population = 124,500 |population-ranking = 28<sup>th</sup> in France |date-density = 1999 |density = 2951 |UU-area = [[1 E9 m²|363]] |UU-area-date = 1999 |UU-pop = 322 526 |UU-pop-date =1999 |AU-area = [[1 E10 m²|1 837]] <!-- ref: http://splaf.free.fr/depurb.php?depnum=55# --> |AU-area-date = 1999 |AU-pop = 429 588 |AU-pop-date =1999 |cp = 57000 |insee = 57463 }} {{otheruses}} '''Metz''' ({{pronounced|mɛs}} in [[French language|French]]) is a city in the northeast of [[France]], capital of the [[Lorraine (région)|Lorraine]] ''[[Région in France|région]]'' and ''[[préfecture]]'' of the ''[[département in France|département]]'' of [[Moselle]] (57). It is located at the confluence of the [[Moselle River|Moselle]] and the [[Seille]] rivers. Although historically [[Nancy]] was the capital of the [[duchy of Lorraine|duchy of Lotharingia]], it was Metz which was chosen as the capital of the newly created [[Lorraine (région)|''région'' of Lorraine]] in the middle of the 20th century, because of its past history as the capital of the region of Lotharingia - an origin found much more republican-friendly than the duchy-related theory, pointing to Nancy as the region capital. ==History== ===Roman Divodurum=== In ancient times Metz, then known as ''Divodurum'' (the town at the holy mountain), was the capital of the [[Celt]]ic [[Mediomatrici]], and the name of this tribe, abbreviated to Mettis, formed the origin of the present name. At the beginning of the [[Christian Era]], the site was already occupied by the [[Roman Empire|Romans]]. Metz became one of the principal towns of [[Gaul|Gallia]], more populous than [[Lutetia]], rich thanks to its wine exports and having one of the largest amphitheatres of the country. As a well-fortified town at the junction of several military roads, it soon grew to great importance. One of the last Roman strongholds to surrender to the [[Germanic tribe]]s, it was captured by [[Attila]] in [[451]], and finally passed, about the end of the fifth century, through peaceful negotiations into the hands of the [[Franks]]. ===Early Frankish Metz=== Though the first [[Christianity|Christian]] churches were to be found outside the city, the existence in the fifth century of the [[Oratory (worship)|oratory]] of St. Stephen within the [[city walls]] has been fully proved. In the beginning of the seventh century the oldest monastic establishments were those of St. Glossinde and St. Peter. Since King [[Sigibert I]], Metz frequently was the residence of the [[Merovingian]] kings of [[Austrasia]] and especially the reign of Queen [[Brunhilda of Austrasia|Brunhilda]] reflected great splendour on the town. The town preserved the good-will of the rulers, when the [[Carolingian]]s acceeded to the [[List of Frankish Kings|Frankish throne]], as it had long been a base of their family and one of their primal ancestors, Saint [[Arnulf of Metz]], as well as his son [[Chlodulf of Metz|Chlodulf]], had been bishops of Metz. [[Charlemagne]] considered making Metz his chief residence before he finally decided in favour of [[Aachen]]. There is evidence that the earliest Western [[musical notation]], in the form of [[neume]]s ''in camp aperto'' (without [[Staff (music)|staff]]-lines), was created at Metz around 800, as a result of Charlemagne's desire for Frankish church musicians to retain the performance nuances used by the Roman singers.<ref>[http://links.jstor.org/sici?sici=0003-0139(200321)56%3A1%3C43%3AADCCMP%3E2.0.CO%3B2-%23 James Grier ''Ademar de Chabannes, Carolingian Musical Practices, and "Nota Romana"''], Journal of the American Musicological Society, Vol. 56, No. 1 (Spring, 2003), pp. 43-98, retrieved July 2007</ref> In the basilica, [[Louis the Pious]] and his half-brother the Bishop [[Drogo of Metz|Drogo]] were buried and [[Charles the Bald]] was crowned there. ===Lotharingian Metz=== In [[843]] Metz became the capital of the Kingdom of [[Lotharingia]], and several diets and councils were held there. Numerous Christian manuscripts, the product of the Metz schools of writing and painting, such as the famous "Trier Ada" manuscript and the [[Drogo Sacramentary]] for the personal use of a bishop of the royal house ([[Bibliotheque Nationale]], Paris), are evidence of the active intellectual lives and sumptuous patronage of Carolingian Metz. After the death of king [[Lothair II of Lotharingia|Lothar II]] the kingdom of [[Lotharingia]], and with it Metz, was contested and changed back and forth between the Eastern and the Western Frankish kingdom until in [[925]] it finally became part of the East kingdom and subsequently the [[Holy Roman Empire]]. The increasing influence of the bishops in the city became greater when Adalbert I (928-62) obtained a share of the privileges of the counts; until the twelfth century, therefore, the history of the town is practically identical with that of the bishops (see [http://www.newadvent.org/cathen/10247a.htm]). In 1039 a splendid edifice was built to take the place of the old church of St. Stephen. In the spring of 1096, Metz became one of the scenes of the [[Rhineland]] massacres of non-Christians as Count [[Emicho]] of Fionheim gathered followers for the [[First Crusade]]. A group of these crusaders entered Metz, forcibly converting Jewish families, and killing those who resisted baptism. 22 Jewish citizens of Metz were slaughtered. ===The commune of Metz=== In the twelfth century, the burgesses began efforts to free themselves from the domination of the bishops. In 1180, the burgesses formed a close corporation, the ''Tredecem jurati'', which were appointed as municipal representatives in 1207. The burgesses were still nominated directly by the bishop, who had also a controlling influence in the selection of the presiding officer of the board of aldermen (which originated in the eleventh century). The twenty-five representatives sent by the various parishes held an independent position; in judicial matters they helped the ''Tredecem jurati'' and formed the democratic element of the system of government. The other municipal authorities were chosen by the town aristocracy, the so-called Paraiges, i. e. the five associations whose members were selected from distinguished families to protect the interests of their relatives. The other body of burgesses, called a Commune, also appears as a Paraige from the year 1297; in the individual offices it was represented by double the number of members that each of the older five Paraiges had. Making common cause, the older family unions and the Commune found it advantageous to gradually increase the powers of the city as opposed to the bishops, and also to keep the control of the municipal government fully in their hands and out of that of the powerful growing guilds, so that until the sixteenth century Metz remained a purely aristocratic organization. In 1300 the Paraiges gained the right to fill the office of head-alderman, during the fourteenth century the right to elect the ''Tredecem jurati'', and in 1383 the right of coining. The guilds, which during the fourteenth century had attained great independence, were completely suppressed (1383), and the last revolutionary attempt of the artisans to seize control of the city government (1405) was put down with much bloodshed. [[Image:Metz Porte des Allemands.jpeg|thumb|left|250px|Porte des Allemands]] The city had often to fight for its freedom; from 1324-27 against the Dukes of Luxembourg and Lorraine, as well as against the [[Archbishop of Trier]]; in 1363 and 1365 against the band of English mercenaries under Arnold of Cervola, in the fifteenth century against France and the [[Dukes of Burgundy]], who sought to annex Metz to their lands or at least wanted to exercise a protectorate. Nevertheless it maintained its independence, even though at great cost, and remained, outwardly at least, part of the [[German Empire]], whose ruler, however, concerned himself very little with this important frontier stronghold. ===French Metz=== [[Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor|Charles IV]] in 1354 and 1356 held brilliant [[Diet (assembly)|diets]] here, at the latter of which was promulgated the famous statute known as the "[[Golden Bull of 1356|Golden Bull]]". The town therefore felt that it occupied an almost independent position between France and Germany, and wanted most of all to evade the obligation of imperial taxes and attendance at the diet. The estrangement between it and the German States daily became wider, and finally affairs came to such a pass that in the religious and political troubles of 1552 Metz found itself in the middle of the war between [[Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor|Charles V]] and the rebellious princes. By an agreement of the German princes, [[Moritz of Saxony]], [[William of Hesse]], [[John Albrecht of Mecklenburg]], and [[George Frederick of Brandenburg]], with [[Henry II of France]], ratified by the French king at [[Treaty of Chambord|Chambord]] (15 January), Metz was formally transferred to France, the gates of the city were opened (10 April), and Henry took possession as ''vicarius sacri imperii et urbis protector'' (18 April). [[Francis, Duke of Guise]], commander of the garrison, restored the old fortifications and added new ones, and successfully resisted the attacks of the emperor from October to December, 1552; Metz remained French. The recognition by the empire of the surrender of Metz to France came at the conclusion of the [[Peace of Westphalia]]. By the construction of the citadel (1555-62) the new government secured itself against the citizens, who were discontented with the turn of events. Important internal changes soon took place. In place of the Paraiges stood the authority of the French king, whose representative was the governor. The head-alderman, now appointed by the governor, was replaced (1640) by a Royalist Mayor. The aldermen were also appointed by the governor and henceforth drawn from the whole body of burgesses; in 1633 the judgeship passed to the Parliament. The powers of the ''Tredecem jurati'' were also restricted, in 1634 totally abolished, and replaced by the [[Bailliage]] royal. [[Image:Metz Tower.jpg|thumb|right|250px|Metz: This [[water tower]] is an aspect of the extensive infrastructure development that took place during nearly five decades of German rule, when northern [[Lorraine (province)|Lorraine]] became Lothringen, following the [[Franco-Prussian war]]]] Among the cities of Lorraine, Metz held a prominent position during the French possession for two reasons: In the first place it became one of the most important fortresses through the work of [[Vauban]] (1674) and Cormontaigne (1730); secondly, it became the capital of the temporal province of the three bishoprics of [[Diocese of Metz|Metz]], [[Diocese of Toul|Toul]], and [[Diocese of Verdun|Verdun]], which France had seized (1552) and, by the Peace of Westphalia, retained. In 1633 there was created for this "[[Province des trois évêchés]]" (also called "[[Généralité]] des trois évêchés" or "Intendance de Metz") a supreme court of justice and court of administration, the Metz Parliament. In 1681 the Chambre Royale, the notorious Assembly chamber, whose business it was to decide what fiefs belonged to the three bishoprics which [[Louis XIV of France|Louis XIV]] claimed for France, was made a part of this Parliament, which lasted, after a temporary dissolution (1771-75), until the final settlement by the National Assembly in 1789, whereupon the division of the land into departments and districts followed. Metz became the capital of the Department of Moselle, created in 1790. The revolution brought great calamities upon the city. In the campaigns of 1814 and 1815 the allied armies twice besieged the city, but were unable to take it. ===1819: A view of Metz after the Bourbon restoration=== In July 1819, the Scots born naval officer [[Norwich Duff]] visited Metz and recorded a detailed description of the town: <blockquote> 'Between [[Verdun]] and Metz I observed several instances [of something] I never before saw [being the] breaking [of] stones to repair the roads, and also ploughing. Between [[Étain, Meuse|Étain]] and Metz they raise a great quantity of [[geese]]: [we] saw several large flocks on each side of the road as we passed. Metz is a large and strongly fortified town, beautifuly situated on a plain at the confluence of the [[Moselle]] and Seille. It manufactures woollen goods, linen, china, paper, oil, starch and is famous for its hams, liquers, sweetmeats and artificial flowers: they also have a king's manufactory of gun powder. The Government House and the promenades round it are very fine: there is also [an] immence extent of [[Barracks]] for troops, a large cathedral and a theatre. From the number of running ditches formed by the river there are a great many bridges: the streets like all French towns [!] are narrow and dirty and the houses high: the ground is also very uneven on which they stand. Some street performers gave us a little very tolerable music during our dinner'. The next day, before heading off for [[Thionville]] en route to [[Luxembourg]], Duff and a fellow officer 'took a walk round the works and through the town and market places which were very well supplied. [They] bought some very good fruit'. </blockquote> ===Metz and the Franco-Prussian War=== During the [[Franco-Prussian War]] of 1870-71 Metz was the headquarters and rendezvous of the third French Army Corps under [[François Achille Bazaine|Bazaine]]. Through the operations of the German army, Bazaine, after the battles of [[Battle of Colombey|Colombey]], [[Battle of Mars-La-Tour|Mars-la-Tour]], and [[Battle of Gravelotte|Gravelotte]] (14-18 August) was [[Siege of Metz|besieged in Metz]]. The German army of investment was commanded by [[Prince Friedrich Karl of Prussia]]; as the few sorties of the garrison were unable to break the German lines, Metz was forced to surrender (27 October), with the result that 6000 French officers and 170,000 men were taken prisoners. By the [[Treaty of Frankfurt (1871)|Treaty of Frankfurt]] of [[1871]], Metz became a German city, and was made a most important garrison and a strong fortress. The [[fortifications of Metz|fortifications]] on the south and east were levelled in 1898, securing space for growth and development. Some large neo-Romanesque buildings typical of the [[German Empire]] were constructed in the city. ===20th Century and Modern Day Metz=== Following the [[Armistice with Germany (Compiègne)|armistice with Germany]] ending the [[World War I|First World War]], the French army entered Metz in November 1918 and the city was returned to France at the [[Treaty of Versailles]] in [[1919]]. Metz was again annexed by Nazi Germany between [[1940]] and [[1944]] during the [[World War II|Second World War]], and was reverted to France after the war. Nowadays, the military importance of Metz has decreased, and the city has diversified its economic base. Expansion has continued in the recent decades despite the economic crisis that besets the rest of Lorraine. However, Metz is in the heart of a new economic region known as the [[SaarLorLux]] Which combines the culture and economic aspects of this unique region in Europe. The City has developed its University and overall infrastructure for the EU's 2007 "Culture Region" (GER: Kultur Großregion). The Metz Technopôle is also an example of the economic revival of Metz and its region. The Technopôle, a high-tech park spread over 180 hectares, was established in 1983 and has attracted over 200 companies, 4000 employees and 4500 students. World-class academic institutions such as [[Georgia Tech]] and [[Supélec]] along with established companies including [[ProConsultant]], [[SFR]] and [[TDF]] are located at the Technopôle. ==Sights== [[Image:Metz Pont Moyen.JPG|thumb|right|Moyen Pont]] [[Image:Metz Theatre 2003.jpg|thumb|right|300px|L'Opéra-Theatre de Metz]] The city is famous for its yellow limestone architecture: la [[Pierre de Jaumont]] and for its nickname "The Green City" (25m2 - 270sqft of park/garden/playground per inhabitant) * [[Metz Cathedral|St. Etienne]], [[Gothic architecture|Gothic]] [[cathedral]] featuring [[stained glass window]]s designed by [[Marc Chagall]]) * St-[[Pierre]]-aux-Nonnains, the oldest church in France, built between 380 and 395AD as a Roman gymnasium; converted to a Christian church in the 7th century. * Ste-Segolene church, (built 13th-14th century) * St-Martin church * St-Vincente church * St-Pierre-de-la-Citadelle church * St-Euchaire church * St-Maximin church * Ruins of [[city walls]] * [[City gates]]: Porte Serpenoise, Porte des Allemands (''German Gate'') *[[Opéra-Théâtre de Metz]] - Theatre and Opera House, built between 1732 and 1752 and the oldest in France * [http://www.yarzheit.com/heavensregister/metz.htm Jewish Cemetery] * Railway Station (built in 1908) and the imperial area build during German occupation ==Transport== ===Motorway=== Metz is ideally located at the intersection of two majors axes: A4 motorway (going from Paris to Strasbourg)Also the A4 is a part of the E50 Motorway connecting Paris, France to Prague, Czech Republic and the A31 motorway (going to Luxembourg at the North and towards Nancy, Dijon and Lyon at the South). ===High speed train (TGV)=== Metz is connected to the French high speed train ([[TGV]]) network, which provides direct train to Paris and Luxembourg cities. The time from Paris (East station) to Metz train station is 82 minutes. Additionally Metz is served by the [[:fr:Gare de Lorraine - TGV|'Lorraine TGV' train station]], located at [[Louvigny, Moselle|Louvigny]], 25 km to the south of Metz, for high speed trains going to Nantes, Rennes, Lille or Bordeaux (without stopping in Paris). 'Lorraine TGV' is at 75 mn of train from Paris Airport (Roissy - Charles de Gaulle). ===Regional trains=== Metz is one of the main station of the regional express trains systems named [http://www.metrolor.fr Metrolor]. One of the main line is the line Nancy-Metz-Luxembourg, completed by many lines going to main cities of the area. ===Local transportation=== Local transportation in the agglomeration is carried out by [http://www.tcrm-metz.fr TCRM] buses. ==Sports and events== * [[FC Metz]], a football team in [[Ligue 1]], the first league in [[French football]] * The [[Open de Moselle]], a tournament of the [[Association of Tennis Professionals|ATP]] [[International Series]], is played in Metz. * Europe's largest hot air balloon festival, hosted by Metz every other year - http://www.pilatre-de-rozier.com/ ==Apollo-Soyuz Test Project== The town of Metz has the distinction of being the location over which the first international handshake in space occurred. On July 17, [[1975]] an [[United States|American]] [[Apollo Spacecraft]] docked with a Soviet [[Soyuz]] Spacecraft in the first join international mission in history. When the two spacecraft docked, the hatch was opened and Commanders [[Thomas P. Stafford]] and [[Aleksei Leonov]] shook hands which happened to occur over the town of Metz. ==Notable people from Metz== Metz was the birthplace of: * [[Rabbenu Gershom]] ([[960]] – [[1040]]?), rabbi * [[Charles Ancillon]] ([[1659]] – [[1715]]), prominent [[Huguenot]] * [[Adam Philippe, Comte de Custine|Adam Philippe de Custine]] ([[1740]]-[[1793]]), general * [[Pierre-Louis Roederer]] ([[1744]]-[[1835]]), politician and economist * [[Francois Barbé-Marbois]] ([[1745]] – [[1837]]), politician in the [[French Revolutionary]] government * [[Jean-François Pilâtre de Rozier]] ([[1754]] – [[1785]]), first man to fly in a [[hot air balloon]] * [[Antoine Charles Louis Lasalle]] ([[1775]]-[[1809]]), general of [[Napoléon Bonaparte|Napoléon]] * [[Ambroise Thomas]] ([[1811]]-[[1893]]), composer * [[Marie-Eugénie de Jésus]] ([[1817]] - [[1898]]), founder of the Religious of the Assumption * [[Louis Le Prince]] ([[1841]] – [[1890]]), first man to shoot moving images * [[Paul Verlaine]] ([[1844]] – [[1896]]), poet * [[:de:Max Braubach|Max Braubach]] ([[1899]] – [[1975]]), German historian * [[S. M. Stirling]] ([[1953]] – ), [[science fiction]] author ==[[Sister city|Sister cities]]== Metz is twinned with: * [[Image:Flag of Germany.svg|20px|]] [[Trier]], [[Germany]], since [[1957]] * [[Image:Flag of Israel.svg|20px|]] [[Karmiel]], [[Israel]], since [[1984]] * [[Image:Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg|20px|]] [[Yichang]], [[China]], since [[1991]] * [[Image:Flag of the Czech Republic.svg|20px|]] [[Hradec Králové]], [[Czech Republic]], since [[2001]] * [[Image:Flag of the United States.svg|20px|]] [[Kansas City, Missouri|Kansas City]], [[Missouri]], [[United States]], since [[2003]] * [[Image:Flag of France.svg|20px|]] [[Saint-Denis, Réunion|Saint-Denis]], [[Réunion]], France * [[Image:Flag of the United Kingdom.svg|20px|]] [[Gloucester]], [[United Kingdom]] ==See also== * [[Fortifications of Metz]] * [[Open de Moselle]] * [[Diocese of Metz]] ==Notes== <references /> ==External links== {{Commons|Metz|Metz}} * [http://www.mairie-metz.fr Official Town Council website] * [http://www.metz-tourism.com Metz Travel Guide] * [http://www.photos-de-villes.com/photo-metz-1.php Pictures of Metz] * [http://historic-cities.huji.ac.il/france/metz/metz.html Historic maps] * [http://metz.online.fr Metz.Online.Fr - Your guide to all web sites related to Metz] * [http://www.santatelevision.com/world/en0247/en0247.html Video about the famous Christmas market of Metz] * [http://www.metztechnopole.com/ Metz Technopôle website] {{catholic|Metz}} {{Préfectures of départements of France}} [[Category:Metz|*]] [[Category:Communes of Moselle]] [[Category:Imperial free cities]] [[af:Metz]] [[bg:Мец]] [[ca:Metz]] [[ceb:Metz]] [[cs:Mety]] [[cy:Metz]] [[da:Metz]] [[de:Metz]] [[et:Metz]] [[el:Μετς (Γαλλία)]] [[es:Metz]] [[eo:Metz]] [[eu:Metz]] [[fr:Metz]] [[gl:Metz]] [[id:Metz]] [[it:Metz]] [[la:Mettis]] [[lb:Metz]] [[lt:Mecas]] [[nl:Metz]] [[ja:メス (都市)]] [[no:Metz]] [[nn:Metz]] [[oc:Mètz]] [[pl:Metz]] [[pt:Metz]] [[ro:Metz]] [[ru:Мец]] [[sq:Metz]] [[scn:Metz]] [[simple:Metz]] [[sl:Metz]] [[sr:Мец]] [[fi:Metz]] [[sv:Metz]] [[vi:Metz]] [[tr:Metz]] [[vec:Metz]] [[vo:Metz]] [[yi:מעץ]] [[zh:梅斯]]