Mohair
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2008-06-11T20:36:02Z
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{{for|the band|Mohair (band)}}
[[Image:Bounce.JPG|thumb|An [[angora goat]]]]
'''Mohair''' usually refers to a [[silk]]-like [[textile|fabric]] or [[yarn]] made from the [[hair]] of the [[Angora goat]].<ref name="OED">"Mohair." ''The Oxford English Dictionay''.</ref> The word "mohair" was adopted into English before [[1570]] from the [[Arabic language|Arabic]] ''mukhayyar'',<ref name="OED">"Mohair." ''The Oxford English Dictionay''.</ref> a type of haircloth, literally 'choice', from ''khayyara'', 'he chose'.<ref name=1911EB>"Mohair." ''The Encyclopædia Britannica.'' 11th ed. 1911.</ref> Mohair fiber is approximately 25-45[[Micron (wool)|µ]] in [[diameter]].<ref>
{{cite web
|url=http://www.llama.org/llama_fiber.htm
|work=International Llama Association
|title=Llama Fiber
|date=[[2007-04-17]]
|author=Beula Williams}}</ref> It is one of the oldest textile fibers in use. It is both durable and resilient. It is notable for its high luster and sheen,<ref name=1911EB>"Mohair." ''The Encyclopædia Britannica.'' 11th ed. 1911.</ref> and is often used in fiber blends to add these qualities to a textile. Mohair also takes dye exceptionally well. Mohair is also warm as it has great insulating properties. It is durable, moisture-wicking, stretch and flame resistant, and crease resistant.
Mohair is composed mostly of [[keratin]], a protein found in the hair, wool, horns and skin of all mammals. While it has scales like [[wool]], the scales are not fully developed, merely indicated.<ref name=1911EB>"Mohair." ''The Encyclopædia Britannica.'' 11th ed. 1911.</ref> Thus, mohair does not [[felt]] like wool does.
Mohair increases its diameter with the age of the goat, growing along with the animal. This means fine hair from younger animals is used for finer applications such as clothing, and the thicker hair from older animals is more often used for carpets and heavy fabrics intended for outerwear.
The term mohair is sometimes used to describe a type of material used for the folding roof on [[convertible]] cars. In this instance, mohair refers to a form of [[denim]]-like [[canvas]]. Also, in [[Poland]], [[mohair berets]], which are particularly popular with elderly women, have become a symbol of [[bigotry]] and are usually associated with the ultra-Catholic [[Radio Maryja]]. Mohair should not be confused with the fur from the [[angora rabbit]], which is called ''[[angora wool|angora wool]]''.
==Production==
Mohair is shorn from the goat without harming the animal. [[Sheep shearing|Shearing]] is done twice a year, in the spring and in the fall. One goat will produce 11 to 17 pounds of mohair a year. Shearing is done on a clean swept floor with extra care taken to keep the hair clean and free of debris. The hair is then processed to remove natural grease, dirt and vegetable matter. Mohair grows in uniform locks. Angora is a single-coat breed, and unlike [[Pygora]] or [[Cashmere]], there is no need to dehair a mohair fleece to separate the coarse hair from the down hair.
==History==
The angora goat is thought to originate from the mountains of [[Tibet]] making their way to Turkey in the 16th century. However, fabric made of mohair was known in England as early as the 8th century.<ref name=1911EB>"Mohair." ''The Encyclopædia Britannica.'' 11th ed. 1911.</ref> Raw mohair was first exported from Turkey to England around 1820, which then became the leading manufacturer of mohair. The Yorkshire mills spun yarn that was exported to Russia, Germany, Austria, etc. as well as woven directly in Yorkshire.<ref name=1911EB>"Mohair." ''The Encyclopædia Britannica.'' 11th ed. 1911.</ref>
Until 1849 the Turkish province of Ankara was the sole producer of Angora goats. Charles V is believed to be the first to bring Angora goats to Europe. Due to the great demand for mohair fiber, throughout the 1800's there was a great deal of crossbreeding between angora goats and common goats. The growing demand for mohair further resulted in attempts on a commercial scale to introduce the goat into South Africa (where it was crossed with the native goat) in 1838, the United States in 1849, Australia from 1856-1875, and later still New Zealand.<ref name=1911EB>"Mohair." ''The Encyclopædia Britannica.'' 11th ed. 1911.</ref> In 1849 Angora goats made their way to America as a gift from Turkey.
Today South Africa is the largest mohair producer in the world, with the majority of South African mohair being produced in the Eastern Cape. The United States is the second largest mohair producer, with the majority of American mohair being produced in [[Texas]].
During World War II, U.S. soldiers wore uniforms made of wool. Worried that domestic producers could not supply enough for future wars, Congress enacted loan and price support programs for wool and mohair in 1954. Despite these programs, wool and mohair production declined. Nevertheless, the U.S. government continued to provide subsidies to mohair producers until 1994. As of 2002, mohair producers were still able to receive special assistance loans from the U.S. Government.
==Uses==
Mohair is used in scarves, suits, sweaters, coats, socks and home furnishing. Mohair fiber is also found in carpets, wall fabrics, craft yarns, and many other fabrics, and may be used as a substitute for fur. Because its texture resembles fine human hair, mohair is often used in making high grade [[doll]] [[Wig (hair)|wigs]] or in rooting customized dolls.
Mohair is also used in 'climbing skins' for [[Ski_mountaineering|randonnee skiing]]. The mohair is used in a carpet allowing the skier an appropriate ascension method without sliding downhill.
==References==
{{Reflist}}
==External links==
* http://www.mohair.co.za
* [http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/goats/angora/index.htm Oklahoma State University, Breeds of Livestock - Angora goats]
[[Category:Arabic words and phrases]]
[[Category:Animal hair products]]
[[Category:Woven fabrics]]
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