Orkney 22645 225448767 2008-07-13T19:20:33Z 80.41.210.62 /* The Norðr-eyjar */ m {{this|the Orkney Islands in [[Scotland]]|Orkney No. 244, Saskatchewan}} {{infobox Scotland council area| |Council= Orkney<br />Àrcaibh |common_name= Orkney |Image= [[Image:ScotlandOrkneyIslands.png]] |image_logo= 2007 Flag of Orkney.svg |logo= Flag of Orkney |logo_type= Flag |image_coat= Orkney Islands Arms.jpg |SizeRank= 16th |Size= 382&nbsp;[[square mile|sq&nbsp;mi]] ([[1 E8 m²|990]] [[square kilometre|km²]]) |Water= ? |AdminHQ= [[Kirkwall]] |ISO= GB-ORK |ONS= 00RA |PopulationRank= 32nd |PopulationDate= 2004 |Population= 19,590 (2004-2005) |PopulationDensity= 52/sq&nbsp;mi (20/km²) |CouncilDetails= Orkney Islands Council<br>http://www.orkney.gov.uk/ |Control= <!-- Edit (with refs per WP:VERIFY) at [[Template:Scottish council control]] --> |MPs= <ul><li>[[Alistair Carmichael]]</ul> |MSPs= <ul><li>[[Liam McArthur]]</ul> }} '''Orkney''' ('''Orkneys''' or '''Orkney Islands''', ''''''Árcaibh'''''' in Gaelic) is an [[archipelago]] in northern [[Scotland]], situated 10 miles (16 km) north of the coast of [[Caithness]]. Orkney comprises over 70 islands; around 20 are inhabited. The largest island, known as "[[Mainland, Orkney|Mainland]]," has an area of 202 [[square miles|sq mi]] (523 [[Square kilometre|km²]]), making it the sixth-largest [[Scottish island]] and the tenth-largest island in the [[British Isles]]. The largest settlement and administrative centre is [[Kirkwall]]. Orkney is one of the 32 [[council areas]] of Scotland, a [[Orkney (Scottish Parliament constituency)|constituency]] of the [[Scottish Parliament]], a [[Lieutenancy areas of Scotland|lieutenancy area]], and a [[counties of Scotland|former county]]. The local council is Orkney Islands Council, the only Council in Scotland in which all the elected members are [[Independent (politician)|independent]].{{Fact|date=March 2008}} Orkney has been inhabited for at least 5,500 years. Originally inhabited by [[neolithic]] tribes and then by the [[Pict]]s, Orkney was invaded and finally annexed by [[Norway]] in 875 and settled by the Norse. It was subsequently re-annexed to the [[List of Scottish monarchs|Scottish Crown]] in 1472, following the failed payment of a [[dowry]] agreement. Orkney contains some of the oldest and best-preserved [[Neolithic]] sites in [[Europe]], and the "[[Heart of Neolithic Orkney]]" is a designated [[UNESCO]] [[World Heritage Site]]. ==Origin of the name== The name of the islands is first recorded by the ancient geographer [[Claudius Ptolemaeus]] (born AD 90, died AD 168), who called them ''Orcades''. The old Gaelic name for the islands was ''Insi Orc'' which means the "Island of the Orcs". An orc is a young [[pig]] or [[boar]]. When the Norwegian Vikings arrived on the islands they interpreted the word orc to be ''orkn'' which is Old Norse for [[pinniped]]s or [[Common Seal|common seal]]. The suffix ''ey'' means island. Thus the name became ''Orkneyjar'' which was shortened to ''Orkney'' in English. ==History== {{Main|History of the Orkney Islands}} [[Image:RingofBrodgarJM.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Ring of Brodgar]] ===Prehistory and Iron Age=== A charred hazelnut shell, recovered during the excavations at Longhowe in Tankerness in 2007, has been dated to 6820-6660 BC.<ref>[http://www.stonepages.com/news/archives/002600.html Stone Pages Archaeo News: Hazelnut shell pushes back date of Orcadian site<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> Apart from this, the earliest known settlement is at [[Knap of Howar]], a Neolithic farmstead on the island of [[Papa Westray]]. It dates from 3500 BC. The village of [[Skara Brae]], Europe's best-preserved [[Neolithic]] settlement, is believed to have been inhabited from around 3100 BC. Other remains from that era include the [[Standing Stones of Stenness]], the [[Maeshowe]] [[passage grave]], the [[Ring of Brodgar]] and other standing stones. Many of the Neolithic settlements were abandoned around 2500 BC due to changes in the climate. The [[Iron Age]] inhabitants were [[Picts]], evidence of whose occupation still exists in "[[Weems house|weems]]" or underground houses, and "[[broch]]s" or round towers, such as the [[Broch of Gurness]]. During the [[Ancient Rome|Roman]] invasion of Britain the "King of Orkney" was one of 11 British leaders who submitted to the Emperor [[Claudius]] in AD 43 at [[Camulodunum|Colchester]].<ref>Moffat, Alistair (2005) ''Before Scotland: The Story of Scotland Before History''. London. Thames & Hudson. Pages 173-5.</ref> If, as seems likely, the [[Dál Riata|Dalriadic]] [[Gaels]] established a footing in the islands towards the beginning of the 6th century, their success was short-lived, and the Picts regained power and kept it until dispossessed by the [[Norsemen]] in the 9th century. In the wake of the Scots, incursionists followed the [[Celtic Christianity|Celtic]] [[Missionary|mission]]aries about 565. They were companions of [[Saint Columba]] and their efforts to convert the folk to Christianity seem to have impressed the popular imagination, for several islands bear the epithet "Papa" in commemoration of the preachers. ===Norwegian rule=== [[Image:Flateyjarbok Haraldr Halfdan.jpg|thumb|left|Harald Hårfagre took control over Orkney in 875]] Orkney and [[Shetland]] saw a significant influx of Norwegian settlers towards the end of the 8th century and first half of the 9th century. This was due to the overpopulation of Norway in comparison to the resources and arable land available there at the time. History once held that the Norwegians largely replaced the original population on the islands, the [[Picts]], though contemporary DNA studies refute this, suggesting instead a slight majority of aboriginal Pictish genes. The nature of the shift in population is the subject of differing theories as little hard evidence remains. These theories range from complete genocide to intermarriage and cultural domination through a gradual majority dominance. According to Dr. Jim Wilson, an Edinburgh scientist with a company named EthnoAncestry, archaeogenetic evidence suggests that "Vikings, who colonised Orkney, did so by eradicating nearly every ''male'' member of its Pictish population" (''Observer'', Dec. 31, 2006). [[Viking]]s having made the islands the headquarters of their [[buccaneer]]ing expeditions (carried out indifferently against their own [[Norway]] and the coasts and isles of Scotland), [[Harald I of Norway|Harald Hårfagre]] ("Harald Fair Hair") subdued the rovers in 875 and annexed both Orkney and [[Shetland]] to Norway. [[Ragnvald Eysteinsson|Ragnvald, Earl of Møre]] received Orkney and Shetland as an earldom from the king as reparation for his son being killed in battle in Scotland. Ragnvald gave the earldom on to his brother [[Sigurd Eysteinsson|Sigurd the Mighty]]. [[Eirik I of Norway|Eirik Bloodaxe]] followed his father on the throne, but when his half-brother [[Håkon I of Norway|Håkon the Good]] returned to Norway from England Eirik's support disappeared and he fled the country. He was given Nordimbraland ([[Northumberland]]) as a fief by King [[Athelstan of England]] and settled in Jorvik ([[York]]), but was expelled by Athelstan's brother [[Edmund I of England|Edmund]] in 941 because of his raids in Ireland and Brittany. Eirik fled to Orkney and lived there until he was killed in the [[Battle of Stainmore]] in England in 954. His sons continued to live on Orkney and challenged Håkon the Good's rule of Norway several times under the leadership of [[Harald II of Norway|Harald Greyhide]]. The sons of Eirik eventually gained control of Norway. [[Image:Peter nicolai arbo, olaf tryggvasson king.jpg|thumb|left|Olav Tryggvason Christianized Orkney. Painting by [[Peter Nicolai Arbo]]]] The islands were Christianized by [[Olaf I of Norway|Olav Tryggvasson]] in 995 when he stopped in the islands on his way from Ireland to Norway. The King summoned Sigurd jarl (Earl Sigurd) and ordered him to let himself be baptised in the Christian faith. Sigurd was unwilling, but gave in when the King threatened to kill his son Hvelp. The islands received their own bishop in the early 1000s. From 1153 to 1472 the Kirkjuvåg bishopric was subordinate to the archbishop of [[Nidaros]] (today's [[Trondheim]]). The [[martyrdom]] of [[Magnus Erlendsson, Earl of Orkney|Earl Magnus]] resulted in the building of [[St. Magnus Cathedral]] in Kirkwall. The islands remained under the rule of Norse [[earl]]s until 1231, when the line of the ''jarls'' became extinct. In that year, the [[Earldom of Caithness]] was granted to Magnus, second son of the [[Earl of Angus]], whom the [[king of Norway]] apparently confirmed in the title. Recent studies from the field of population [[genetics]] reveal a significant percentage of Norse ethnic heritage&nbsp;— up to one third of the [[Y chromosomes]] on the islands are derived from western Norwegian sources, whereas in Shetland over half the male lineage is Norse. [[Image:Kirkwall cathedral.jpg|thumb|[[St. Magnus Cathedral|St Magnus Cathedral]] in Kirkwall]] ===The Norðr-eyjar=== Likewise a Norse kingdom, the [[Kingdom of Mann and the Isles]] existed in the British Isles from 1079 till 1266. In 1164 it was split into the Kingdom of the [[Hebrides]] (Sodor) and the [[Kingdom of Mann]]. '''[[Sodor]] (Suðr-eyjar)''', or the South Isles, was given in contradistinction to '''Nordr (Norðr-eyjar), or the North Isles''', i. e. [[Orkney]] and [[Shetland]], and it included the [[Hebrides]], all the smaller [[Western Isles]] of [[Scotland]], and Mann. (ð is pronounced th as in father). (Ref. to Manxnotebook) Even today, the Bishop of the [[Isle of Man]] is the Bishop of Sodor and Mann ===Scottish rule=== [[Image:James III and Margaret of Denmark.jpg|thumb|200px|James III and Margaret, their betrothal led to Orkney passing from Norway to Scotland]] In 1468, Orkney and [[Shetland]] were [[pledge#legal|pledged]] by [[Christian I of Denmark|Christian I]], in his capacity as king of Norway, as security against the payment of the [[dowry]] of his daughter [[Margaret of Denmark|Margaret]], betrothed to [[James III of Scotland]].<ref> [http://www.rosslyntemplars.org.uk/orkney&shetland.htm Acquisition of Orkney and Shetland 1468-9]</ref> Apparently without the knowledge of the Norwegian [[Riksråd]] (Council of the Realm) Christian entered into the contract on 8 September 1468 personally with the King of Scotland in which he pawned Orkney for 50,000 Rhenish [[Rhenish gulden|guilder]]s.<!-- see: de:Gulden# (Rheinischer Münzverein) --><ref> [http://www.rosslyntemplars.org.uk/orkney&shetland.htm Acquisition of Orkney and Shetland 1468-9]</ref> On 28 May the next year he also pawned Shetland for 8,000 Rhenish guilders.<ref> [http://www.ub.uib.no/avdeling/spes/diplom/1509.htm University Library, University in Bergen: Article on Shetland {{no icon}}]</ref>. He secured a clause in the contract which gave future kings of Norway the right to redeem the islands for a fixed sum of 210 kg of gold or 2,310 kg of silver. Several attempts were made during the 17th and 18th centuries to redeem the islands, without success.<ref> [http://universitas.uio.no/Arkiv/1996/16okt96/norsk.htm Universitas, Norsken som døde (Norwegian article on the history of the islands) {{no icon}}]</ref> In 1471, James bestowed the castle and lands of Ravenscraig, in [[Fife]], on [[William Sinclair, 1st Earl of Caithness|William, Earl of Orkney]], in exchange for all his rights to the [[Earldom of Orkney]], which, by an [[Acts of the Parliament of Scotland|Act]] of the [[Parliament of Scotland]], passed on [[February 20]], [[1472]], was annexed to the Scottish [[The Crown|Crown]]. In 1669 an [[1669 Act for annexation of Orkney and Shetland to the Crown|Act of Annexation]] was passed by the Scottish Parliament establishing [[Orkney]] and [[Shetland]] as [[Crown Dependencies]] following a legal dispute with [[William James Douglas, 10th Earl of Morton|William, Earl of Morton]], who then held the estates of both Orkney and Shetland. The Act made Orkney and Shetland exempt from any "''dissolution of His Majesty’s lands''". In 1742 a further Act of Parliament returned the estates to a later Earl of Morton, however, the 1669 act of Parliament specifically proscribes this, stating that any such change is to be "''considered null, void and of no effect''". ===Modern Orkney=== Orkney was the site of a major [[Royal Navy]] base at [[Scapa Flow]], which played a major role in both [[World War I]] and [[World War II|II]]. After the [[Armistice]] in 1918, the [[German High Seas Fleet]] was transferred in its entirety to Scapa Flow while a decision was to be made on its future; however, the German sailors opened their sea-cocks and scuttled all the ships. Most ships were salvaged, but the remaining wrecks are now a favoured haunt of recreational divers. One month into [[World War II]], the Royal Navy battleship [[HMS Royal Oak (08)|HMS ''Royal Oak'']] was sunk by a German [[U-boat]] in Scapa Flow. As a result [[Churchill Barriers|barriers]] were built to close most of the access channels; these had the additional advantage of creating causeways whereby travellers can go from island to island by road instead of being obliged to rely on boats. The causeways were constructed by Italian prisoners of war, who also constructed the ornate [[Italian Chapel]]. ==Islands== ===The Mainland=== {{Main|Mainland, Orkney}} [[Image:StromnessJM.jpg|thumb|250px|[[Stromness]], on Mainland, is the 2nd largest settlement on Orkney]] The '''Mainland''' is the largest island of Orkney. Both of Orkney's [[burgh]]s, [[Kirkwall]] and [[Stromness]], are on this island, which is also the heart of Orkney's transportation system, with [[ferry]] and air connections to the other islands and to the outside world. The island is more densely populated (75% of Orkney's population) than the other islands and has much fertile [[Farmland (farming)|farmland]]. The name Mainland is a corruption of the Old Norse 'Meginland'. Kirkwall lies on a narrow strip of land between West Mainland (the major portion) and East Mainland. The island is mostly low-lying (especially East Mainland), but with coastal [[cliff]]s to the north and west and two sizeable [[loch]]s. Mainland contains the remnants of numerous [[Neolithic]], [[Picts|Pictish]] and [[Viking]] constructions. The Neolithic constructions include two major stone circles; [[Standing Stones of Stenness]] and the [[Ring of Brodgar]]; several cairns, most notably [[Maeshowe]]; and a stone-built settlement [[Skara Brae]]. With two exceptions, the other islands in the group are classified as north or south of the Mainland. The exceptions are the remote islets of [[Sule Skerry]] and [[Sule Stack]], which lie {{convert|37|mi|km|0}} west of the archipelago, but officially form part of Orkney. ===The North Isles=== The northern group of islands is the most extensive and consists of a large number of moderately sized islands, linked to the Mainland by ferries. Most of the islands described as "[[holm]]s" are very small. ====Inhabited islands==== * [[Auskerry]] is south of Stronsay and has a population of 5 (2001 census). It has been designated a Special Protection Area due to its importance as a nesting area for [[Arctic Tern]] and Storm Petrel. *[[Eday]] extends to 11 square miles (28 km²); it is the 9th largest island. The centre is moorland and the island's main industries have been peat extraction and limestone quarrying. It is connected to the Mainland by ferry (Backaland to Kirkwall) and air. *[[Egilsay]] lies east of Rousay. It is largely farmland and is known for its corncrakes, although none have been seen for a number of years, and for the only surviving, but roofless, round-towered church in Orkney. It is connected indirectly with the Mainland by ferry via Wyre and Rousay. St Magnus is said to have been executed on Egilsay. * [[Gairsay]] is inhabited by one family, who issue their own postage stamps (permitted due to the lack of a Royal Mail service). *[[North Ronaldsay]] lies {{convert|2.5|mi|km|0}} north of its nearest neighbour, Sanday. Its climate is changeable and frequently inclement, with the surrounding waters being stormy and treacherous. Of significance are a bird observatory, Britain's tallest land based lighthouse tower and an unusual dry stane dyke along the shoreline built to keep the seaweed eating North Ronaldsay sheep off of the arable land. It is connected to the Mainland by air and ferry. *[[Papa Stronsay]] lies north east of Stronsay. A fertile island, it was once an important centre for herring curing, but was abandoned in the 1970s. It is has been home to a Transalpine Redemptorist monastery (called Golgotha monastery) since 1999. *[[Papa Westray]], also known as Papay, has a population of 70. Of significance are an RSPB nature reserve (terns and skuas), the Knap of Howar (probably the oldest preserved house in northern Europe), a 12th century recently restored church (St Boniface Kirk) and other neolithic and Viking remains. It is connected to Westray and the Mainland by air and ferry. *[[Rousay]] is the joint 3rd largest (19 sq mi / 49 km²) island about {{convert|2|mi|km|0}} north of Orkney's Mainland. In the 2001 census, it had a population of 212. Farming, fishing, fish-farming, craft and tourism provide most of the income. There is one circular road round the island, about {{convert|14|mi|km|0}} long, and most arable land lies in the few hundred yards between this and the coastline. Seals and otters can be found as can many remains of past occupation. *[[Sanday, Orkney|Sanday]] is the largest of the North Isles, with a population of approximately 500. As with most other Orkney islands, farming, fishing and tourism are the main sources of income. Attractions include the 5,000-year-old Quoyness [[chambered cairn]]. *[[Shapinsay]] is the 8th largest island at 12 square miles (31 km²). It is connected to the Mainland by ferry (Balfour to Kirkwall). Shapinsay is known for the Iron Age [[Broch of Burroughston]]<ref>[http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=7891 C. Michael Hogan, ''Burroughston Broch'', The Megalithic Portal, ed. Andy Burnham (2007)]</ref> and the Dishan Tower, sea caves and cliffs, for birds including pintail, wigeon and shovelers, and Balfour Castle. *[[Stronsay]] has a population of 343 and is the 7th largest island. Its main village is [[Whitehall, Orkney|Whitehall]]. *[[Westray]] has a population of 550 and is the 6th largest island. It is connected by ferry and air to Mainland and Papa Westray. *[[Wyre, Orkney|Wyre]] lies south-east of Rousay and has a population of about 18. Cubbie Roo's castle (1150) is possibly the oldest castle in Scotland. ====Others==== [[Calf of Eday]], [[Damsay]], [[Eynhallow]], [[Faray]], [[Helliar Holm]], [[Holm of Faray]], [[Holm of Huip]], [[Holm of Papa]], [[Holm of Scockness]], [[Kili Holm]], [[Linga Holm]], [[Muckle Green Holm]], [[Rusk Holm]], [[Sweyn Holm]] ===The South Isles=== The southern group of islands surrounds [[Scapa Flow]]. Hoy is the highest of the Orkney Isles, while South Ronaldsay, Burray and Lamb Holm are linked to the Mainland by the [[Churchill Barriers]]. The [[Pentland Skerries]] lie further south, close to the Scottish mainland. ====Inhabited islands==== [[Image:Hoy Lighthouse RLH.jpg|thumb|250px|[[Hoy Lighthouse]] on Graemsay]] *[[Burray]] lies to the east of Scapa Flow and is linked by causesway to Glimps Holm and South Ronaldsay. It is home to the Orkney Fossil Museum and has a population of 357 (2001 census). *[[Flotta]] is known for its large oil terminal and is linked by ferry to Houton across the Scapa Flow on the Mainland, and to Lyness and Longhope on Hoy. During the both World Wars the island was home to a naval base. *[[Graemsay]] has a population of around 30. Birds include oystercatchers, ringed plovers, redshank and curlew. it is linked by ferry to Stromness on the Mainland and Moaness on Hoy. *[[Hoy]] with an area of 55 square miles (142 km²) is the second largest island. Significant features are the highest vertical sea-cliffs in the UK, the [[Old Man of Hoy]], the most northerly surviving natural woodland in the British Isles, the most northerly Martello Towers, the highest point in Orkney, the main naval base for Scapa Flow in both World Wars, an unusual rock-cut tomb and an RSPB reserve (skuas and red-throated divers) *[[South Ronaldsay]] is linked by causeway to Burray. With an area of 19 square miles (49 km²) it is the joint third largest island. Of significance are Boys' Ploughing Match, the Tomb of the Eagles (neolithic). It is connected by ferry to the Scottish mainland (Burwick to John o' Groats and St. Margaret's Hope to Gills Bay). *[[South Walls]] has a population of 120 and is sometimes considered to be part of Hoy, to which it is linked by the Ayre. It forms the south side of Longhope harbour. ====Others==== [[Calf of Flotta]], [[Cava (island)|Cava]], [[Copinsay]], [[Corn Holm]], [[Fara, Orkney|Fara]], [[Glims Holm]], [[Hunda]], [[Lamb Holm]] (home of the [[Italian Chapel]]), [[Rysa Little]], [[Switha]], [[Swona]] ==Politics== Orkney is represented in the [[British House of Commons|House of Commons]] as part of the [[Orkney and Shetland (UK Parliament constituency)|Orkney and Shetland]] [[United Kingdom constituencies|constituency]], which elects one [[Member of Parliament]] (MP) by the [[first past the post]] system of election. The current MP is [[Alistair Carmichael]] of the [[Liberal Democrats (UK)|Liberal Democrats]]. In the [[Scottish Parliament]] the [[Orkney (Scottish Parliament constituency)|Orkney]] constituency elects one [[Member of the Scottish Parliament]] (MSP) by the first past the post system. The current MSP is [[Liam McArthur]] of the Liberal Democrats. Before McArthur the MSP was [[Jim Wallace]], who was previously [[Deputy First Minister of Scotland|Deputy First Minister]]. Orkney is within the [[Highlands and Islands (Scottish Parliament region)|Highlands and Islands]] [[Scottish Parliament constituencies and regions|electoral region]]. [[Orkney Islands Council]] consists of 21 members, all of whom are [[Independent (politician)|independent]], that is they are not members of a political party. The Orkney Movement, a political party that supported devolution for Orkney from the rest of Scotland contested the [[1987 UK general election]] as the [[Orkney and Shetland Movement]] (a coalition of the Orkney movement and its equivalent for Shetland). The [[Scottish National Party]] chose not to contest the seat to give the movement a "free run". Their candidate, John Goodlad, came 4th with 3,095 votes, 14.5% of the those cast but the experiment has not been repeated.<ref>[http://www.bookrags.com/wiki/Orkney_and_Shetland_Movement "Orkney and Shetland Movement"] BookRags. Retrieved [[11 January]] [[2008]]</ref><ref>[http://www.alba.org.uk/scot99constit/h05.html "Candidates and Constituency Assessments: Orkney (Highland Region)"] alba.org.uk. Retrieved [[11 January]] [[2008]]</ref> ==Geography== [[Image:Orkney Islands.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Orkney Aerial photomap]] The [[Pentland Firth]] is a seaway which separates Orkney from the mainland of Scotland. The firth is {{convert|6.8|mi|km|0}} wide between [[Brough Ness]] on the island of [[South Ronaldsay]] and [[Duncansby Head]] in [[Caithness]]. Orkney lies between 58° 41' and 59° 24' North, and 2° 22' and 3° 26' West, measuring {{convert|50|mi|km|0}} from northeast to southwest and {{convert|29|mi|km|0}} from east to west, and covers {{convert|375|sqmi|km2|0}}. Except for some sharply rising sandstone hills and rugged cliffs on the west of the larger ones, the islands are mainly lowlying. The hilliest island is [[Hoy]]; the highest point in Orkney, [[Ward Hill, Hoy|Ward Hill]], is to be found there. The only other islands containing heights of any importance are the Mainland, with (another) Ward Hill ({{convert|879|ft|m|0|abbr=on|lk=on|disp=s}}) and Wideford Hill; and Rousay. Nearly all of the islands have lochs (lakes): The [[Loch of Harray]] and the [[Loch of Stenness]] on the Mainland attain noteworthy proportions. The rivers are merely streams draining the high land. Excepting on the west fronts of the Mainland, Hoy and Rousay, the coastline of the islands is deeply indented, and the islands themselves are divided from each other by straits generally called "sounds" or "firths". However, off the northeast of Hoy the designation "Bring Deeps" is used. South of the Mainland is [[Scapa Flow]] and to the southwest of Eday is found the [[Fall of Warness]]. The names of the islands indicate their nature: the terminal "a" or "ay" represents the Norse ''ey'', meaning "island". The islets are usually styled "holms" and the isolated rocks "skerries". The [[tidal current]]s, or races, or "roosts" (as some of them are called locally, from the [[Norn language|Norn]]) off many of the isles run with high velocity, and whirlpools are of frequent occurrence, occasionally strong enough to prove a source of danger to small craft. The islands are notable for the absence of trees, which is partly accounted for by the amount of wind. The formation of [[peat]] is evidence that this was not always the case, and deliberate deforestation is believed to have taken place at some stage prior to the [[Neolithic]], the use of stone in settlements such as [[Skara Brae]] being evidence of the lack of availability of timber for building. Most of the land is taken up by farms, and agriculture is by far the most important sector of the economy, with fishing also being a major occupation. Orkney exports [[beef]], [[cheese]], [[whisky]], [[beer]], [[fish]] and [[seafood]]. ==Geology== [[Image:OldManofHoycloseJM.jpg|thumb|right|200px|The Old Man of [[Hoy]]]] The superficial rock is almost entirely [[Old Red Sandstone]]. As in the neighbouring mainland county of [[Caithness]], these rocks rest upon the [[metamorphic rock|metamorphic]] rocks of the eastern [[schist]]s, as may be seen on Mainland, where a narrow strip is exposed between Stromness and Inganess, and again in the small island of [[Graemsay]]; they are represented by grey [[gneiss]] and [[granite]]. The upper division of the Old Red Sandstone is found only on Hoy, where it forms the Old Man of Hoy and neighbouring cliffs on the northwest coast. The [[Old Man of Hoy]] presents a characteristic section, for it exhibits a thick pile of massive, current-bedded red [[sandstone]]s resting upon a thin bed of amygdaloidal [[porphyrite]] near the foot of the pinnacle. This, in its turn, lies unconformably upon steeply inclined flagstones. This bed of [[volcanic]] rock may be followed northward in the [[cliff]]s, and it may be noticed that it thickens considerably in that direction. The Lower Old Red [[Sandstone]] is represented by well-bedded [[flagstone]]s over most of the islands; in the south of the Mainland these are faulted against an overlying series of massive red [[sandstone]]s, but a gradual passage from the flagstones to the sandstones may be followed from Westray southeastwards into Eday. A strong synclinal fold traverses Eday and Shapinsay, the axis being North and South. Near Haco's Ness in Shapinsay there is a small exposure of amygdaloidal [[diabase]], which is older than that on Hoy. Many indications of ice action are found on these islands; striated surfaces are to be seen on the cliffs in Eday and Westray, in [[Kirkwall]] Bay and on Stennie Hill in Eday; boulder [[clay]], with marine shells, and with many boulders of rocks foreign to the islands ([[chalk]], oolitic limestone, [[flint]], etc), which must have been brought up from the region of Moray Firth, rests upon the old strata in many places. Local [[moraine]]s are found in some of the valleys in Mainland and [[Hoy]]. ==Climate== The climate is remarkably temperate and steady for such a northerly latitude. The average temperature for the year is 8 °C (46 °F), for winter 4 °C (39 °F) and for summer 12 °C (54 °F). The average annual rainfall varies from 850 mm (33 in) to 940 mm (37 in). Fogs occur during summer and early autumn, and furious gales may be expected four or five times in the year. To tourists, one of the fascinations of the islands is their nightless summers. On the longest day, the sun rises at 03:00 and sets at 21:29 GMT and darkness is unknown. It is possible to read at midnight and very few stars can be seen in the night sky. Winter, however, is long. On the [[shortest day]] the sun rises at 09:05 and sets at 15:16.<ref>[http://www.orcadian.co.uk/weather/annualsunsets.htm "Sunrise and Sunsets"] ''The Orcadian''. Shows times for 2006. Retrieved [[8 March]] [[2008]].</ref> The soil generally is a sandy [[loam]] or a strong but friable clay, and very fertile. Large quantities of [[seaweed]] as well as [[calcium oxide|lime]] and [[marl]] are available for manure. ==Economy== The [[wool]]len trade once promised to reach considerable dimensions, but towards the end of the 18th century was superseded by the [[linen]] (for which [[flax]] came to be largely grown); and when this in turn collapsed before the products of the mills of [[Dundee]], [[Dunfermline]] and [[Glasgow]], [[Straw Plaiting|straw-plaiting]] was taken up, though only to be killed in due time by the competition of the south. The [[kelp]] industry was formerly of at least minor importance. For several centuries the [[Netherlands|Dutch]] practically monopolised the [[herring]] fishery, but when their supremacy was destroyed by the salt duty, the Orcadians failed to seize the opportunity thus presented, and [[George Barry]] (died 1805) recorded that in his day the fisheries were almost totally neglected. The industry, however, revived, concentrating on herring, [[cod]] and [[ling]], but also catching [[lobster]]s and [[crab]]s. In the 17th century, Orcadians formed the overwhelming majority of employees of the Hudson's Bay Company in Canada. The harsh climate of the Orkneys and the Orcadian reputation for sobriety made them ideal candidates for the rigours of the Canadian north. Today, many of the [[Métis]] people of western Canada trace their history to the Orkneys. In recent years, the Orkney economy has seen growth in areas other than the traditional agriculture, livestock farming, and fishing. These include tourism; food and beverage manufacture; jewellery, knitwear, and other crafts production; construction; and oil transportation through the [[Flotta]] oil terminal. Public services also play a significant role. Orkney has significant wind, and marine energy resources and [[Renewable energy in Scotland|renewable energy]] has recently come into prominence. The [[European Marine Energy Centre]] (EMEC) is a [[Scottish Government]]-backed research facility that has installed a wave testing system at Billia Croo on the Orkney mainland and a tidal power testing station on the nearby island of [[Eday]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.emec.org.uk/|title=European Marine Energy Centre|accessdate=2007-02-03}}</ref> At the official opening of the Eday project the site was described as "the first of its kind in the world set up to provide developers of wave and tidal energy devices with a purpose-built performance testing facility.".<ref>{{cite press release |title=First Minister Opens New Tidal Energy Facility at EMEC |publisher=Highlands and Islands Enterprise |date=[[2007-09-28]]|url=http://www.allmediascotland.com/media_releases/1687/first_minister_opens_new_tidal_energy_facility_at_emec |accessdate=2007-10-01 |quote=The centre offers developers the opportunity to test prototype devices in unrivalled wave and tidal conditions. Wave and tidal energy converters are connected to the National Grid via seabed cables running from open-water test berths. Testing takes place in a wide range of sea and weather conditions, with comprehensive round-the-clock monitoring.}}</ref> Funding for the UK's first [[wave farm]] was announced by the [[Scottish Government]] in 2007. It will be the world's largest, with a capacity of 3 MW generated by four [[Pelamis wave energy converter|Pelamis]] machines at a cost of over £4 million.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/6377423.stm "Orkney to get 'biggest' wave farm"] BBC News. Retrieved [[25 February]] [[2007]].</ref> During 2007 Scottish and Southern Energy plc in conjunction with the [[University of Strathclyde]] began the implementation of a 'Regional Power Zone' in the Orkney archipelago. This ground-breaking scheme (that may be the first of its kind in the world) involves 'active network management' that will make better use of the existing infrastructure and allow a further 15MW of new 'non-firm generation' output from renewables onto the network.<ref>[http://www.scottish-southern.co.uk/SSEInternet/uploadedFiles/About_Us/Our_Businesses/Energy_Systems/Regulated_Accounts/SSERPZReport%200607.pdf ''Registered Power Zone Annual Report for period 1 April 2006 to 31 March 2007''] (pdf) Scottish Hydro Electric Power Distribution and Southern Electric Power Distribution. Retrieved [[18 October]] [[2007]].</ref><ref>[http://www.ensg.gov.uk/assets/kel003110000.pdf ''FACILITATE GENERATION CONNECTIONS ON ORKNEY BY AUTOMATIC DISTRIBUTION NETWORK MANAGEMENT''] DTI. Retrieved [[18 October]] [[2007]].</ref> ==Transport== ===Air=== The main airport in Orkney is [[Kirkwall Airport]], operated by [[Highlands and Islands Airports Limited|Highland and Islands Airports]]. [[Loganair]], a franchise of [[British Airways]] provides services to the Scottish Mainland ([[Aberdeen Airport|Aberdeen]], [[Edinburgh Airport|Edinburgh]], [[Glasgow International Airport|Glasgow]] and [[Inverness Airport|Inverness]]), as well as to [[Sumburgh Airport]] in Shetland. Within Orkney, the council operates airfields on most of the larger islands including [[Stronsay Airport|Stronsay]], [[Eday Airport|Eday]], [[North Ronaldsay Airport|North Ronaldsay]], [[Westray Airport|Westray]], [[Papa Westray Airport|Papa Westray]], and [[Sanday Airport|Sanday]]. The shortest scheduled air service in the world, between the islands of Westray and Papa Westray, is scheduled at two minutes duration but can take less than one minute if the wind is in the right direction. ===Ferry=== Ferries serve both to link Orkney to the rest of Scotland, and also to link together the various islands of the Orkney archipelago. Ferry services operate between Orkney and the Scottish Mainland and Shetland on the following routes: * [[Lerwick, Shetland|Lerwick]] to [[Kirkwall]] (operated by [[Northlink Ferries]]) * [[Aberdeen, Scotland|Aberdeen]] to [[Kirkwall]] (operated by Northlink Ferries) * [[Scrabster]] to [[Stromness]] (operated by Northlink Ferries) * [[Pentland Firth|Gills Bay]] to [[St Margaret's Hope]] (operated by [[Pentland Ferries]]) * [[John o' Groats]] to [[Burwick]] on [[South Ronaldsay]] (seasonal passenger only service, operated by [[John o' Groats Ferries]]) Inter-island ferry services connect all the inhabited islands to Orkney Mainland, and are operated by [[Orkney Ferries]], a company owned by [[Orkney Islands Council]]. ===Road=== There are ideas being discussed to build an undersea tunnel between Orkney and the Scottish Mainland, at a length of about 9-10 miles (15-16 km) or (more likely) one connecting Orkney Mainland to Shapinsay.<ref>{{cite news| url=http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,2-1765366,00.html| work=The Times| title=Islanders see a brighter future with tunnel vision| author=David Lister| date=September 5, 2005| accessdate=2007-07-12}}</ref><ref>{{cite news| url=http://thescotsman.scotsman.com/index.cfm?id=261472005| work=The Scotsman| title=£100m tunnel to Orkney 'feasible'| author=John Ross| date=10 March 2005| accessdate=2007-07-13}}</ref> ==Media== Orkney is served by two weekly local newspapers, [[The Orcadian]] and Orkney Today,<ref>[http://www.orkneytoday.co.uk ''Orkney Today''] Retrieved [[16 February]] [[2008]].</ref> both published every Thursday. A local BBC radio station, [[BBC Radio Orkney]], the local opt-out of [[BBC Radio Scotland]], broadcasts twice daily, with local news and entertainment. Orkney also has a [[community radio]] station, [[The Superstation Orkney]]. The [[Bauer Radio]] owned stations, [[Moray Firth Radio]], [[Northsound 1]] and [[Northsound 2]] can also be heard on parts of the islands, with poor reception. ==Sport== The Orkney Amateur Football Association runs leagues between late April and early September, and teams also compete in the [[Highland Amateur Cup]]. There are also several Hockey clubs. Orkney competes in the biannual [[International Island Games Association|Island Games]]. ==Heritage== [[Image:Skara Brae house 9.jpg|thumb|right|250px|[[Skara Brae]]]] Located in West Mainland is the 'Heart of Neolithic Orkney', a designated [[UNESCO]] [[World Heritage Site]]. This comprises a group of Neolithic monuments which consist of a large chambered tomb ([[Maes Howe]]), two ceremonial stone circles (the [[Standing Stones of Stenness]] and the [[Ring of Brodgar]]) and a settlement ([[Skara Brae]]), together with a number of unexcavated burial, ceremonial and settlement sites. The group constitutes a major prehistoric cultural landscape which gives a graphic depiction of life in this remote archipelago in the far north of Scotland some 5,000 years ago. [[Viking]] settlers comprehensively occupied Orkney, and the islands became a possession of [[Norway]] until being given to [[Scotland]] during the 15th century as part of a dowry settlement. Evidence of the Viking presence is widespread, and includes the settlement at the [[Brough of Birsay]], the vast majority of [[place name]]s, and [[runic]] inscriptions at Maeshowe and other ancient sites. ==Language== At the beginning of recorded history the islands were inhabited by the [[Picts]], whose language is unknown. Opinions on the nature of [[Pictish language|Pictish]] vary from its having been a [[Celtic languages|Celtic]] language, to its not having been [[Indo-European languages|Indo-European]] at all. Katherine Forsyth claims that the Ogham script on the [[Buckquoy spindle-whorl]] is evidence for the pre-Norse existence of [[Old Irish]] in Orkney.<ref>{{cite journal| author=Forsyth, Katherine| title=The ogham-inscribed spindle-whorl from Buckquoy: evidence for the Irish language in pre-Viking Orkney?| journal=The Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland| volume=125| year=1995| pages=677–96| url=http://ads.ahds.ac.uk/catalogue/adsdata/PSAS_2002/pdf/vol_125/125_677_696.pdf| publisher=ARCHway| accessdate=2007-07-27}}</ref> After the Norse occupation the [[toponymy]] of Orkney became almost wholly [[West Norse]].<ref>Gregor Lamb, Testimony of the Orkneyingar: Place Names of Orkney, 1995, Byrgisey, ISBN 0-9513443-4-X</ref> The Norse language evolved into the local [[Norn language|Norn]], which lingered until the end of the 18th century, when it finally died out. Norn was replaced by the Orcadian dialect of [[Insular Scots]]. This dialect is at a low ebb due to the constant influences of television, education and the large number of incomers. However attempts are being made to revitalise its use by some writers and radio presenters.[http://www.orkneyjar.com/orkney/dialect/index.html] However, the distinctive sing-song [[Accent (linguistics)|accent]] and many dialect words of Norse origin continue to be used. The [[Orcadian dialect]] lingers in the remoter parts of the archipelago. Studies made by [[Gregor Lamb]] and others demonstrate the Norse influence on the [[grammar]] of Orcadian. The Orcadian word most frequently encountered by visitors is "peedie" (''peerie'' in [[Shetland]]), meaning small, which may be derived from the [[French language|French]] "petit"<ref>Dr.Stephen Clackson, [[The Orcadian]], 25 November 2004</ref>. ==Orcadians== [[Image:Finstowngala.jpg|right|thumb|300px|An Orcadian [[pipe band]] at [[Finstown]] Gala]] [[Image:SandayTartan.gif|thumb|150px|left|Sanday Tartan]] An '''Orcadian''' is a native of Orkney, a term that reflects a strongly held identity with a tradition of understatement.<ref>[http://www.orkneyjar.com/orkney/orcadian.htm Orkneyjar - The people of Orkney]</ref> Although the annexation of the earldom by Scotland in [[1472]] took place over five centuries ago, most Orcadians regard themselves as Orcadians first and [[Scottish people|Scots]] second.<ref>''The Heart of Neolithic Orkney in its Contemporary Contexts: A case study in heritage management and community values''. [[Historic Scotland]] Research Paper</ref> (Readers of [[Walter Scott|Scott]]'s ''[[The Pirate (novel)|The Pirate]]'' will remember the frank contempt which Magnus Troil expressed for the Scots). When an Orcadian speaks of "Scotland", they are talking about the land to the immediate south of the [[Pentland Firth]]. When an Orcadian speaks of "the mainland", they mean [[Mainland, Orkney]].<ref>[http://www.orkneyjar.com/orkney/index.html Orkneyjar - Where is Orkney?] </ref> They are emphatic that [[tartan]], [[clans]], [[bagpipes]] and the like are traditions from the [[Scottish Highlands]] and are not a part of the islands' indigenous culture <ref>[http://www.orkneyjar.com/orkney/faq.htm Orkneyjar FAQ]</ref>. However, at least two tartans with Orkney connexions have been registered <ref>[http://www.tartans.scotland.net/tartan_info.cfm@tartan_id=4091.htm Orkney tartan]</ref> <ref>[http://www.tartans.scotland.net/tartan_info.cfm@tartan_id=8160.htm Clackson tartan]</ref>, and there are pipe bands in Orkney <ref>[http://www.kirkwallcity.com/ Kirkwall City Pipe Band]</ref><ref>[http://www.orkneycommunities.co.uk/STROMNESSPIPEBAND/ Stromness RBL Pipe Band]</ref>. A district tartan has been designed for [[Sanday, Orkney|Sanday]] by one of the island's residents, although it has not yet been officially adopted by the island authorities. It represents the sea, the distinctive sandy beaches and green meadows of the island, and the vertical stripes of Start Point lighthouse.<ref>[http://www.scotsheraldry.com/Archive/ShowMessage.asp?ID=4610 Scotsheraldry.com re Sanday Tartan] Retrieved 2 June 2007.</ref> Native Orcadians refer to the non-native residents of the islands as "Ferry Loupers", a term that has been in use for nearly two centuries at least.<ref>See: David Vedder, ''Orcadian Sketches'', Edinburgh, William Tait, 1832</ref> This designation is celebrated in the Orkney Trout Fishing Association's "Ferryloupers Trophy", demonstrating that it was originally a non-derogatory appellation{{Fact|date=May 2008}} although it can be used in a derogatory manner. ===Well-known Orcadians=== In family name alphabetical order: * [[James Atkine]] (1613-1687), bishop first of Moray and afterwards of Galloway * [[William Balfour Baikie]] (1825-1864), traveller in [[Africa]] * [[George Mackay Brown]] (1921-1996), poet, author, playwright * [[Mary Brunton]] (1778-1818), author of ''Self-Control'', ''Discipline'' and other novels * [[Stanley Cursiter]] (1887-1976), artist * [[William Towrie Cutt]] (1898-1981), author * [[Walter Traill Dennison]] (1826-1894), Orcadian [[folklorist]] * [[Magnus Erlendsson, Earl of Orkney|Magnus Erlendsson]] (Saint Magnus) (c.1070-c.1117), Earl of Orkney c.1105-1117 * [[Matthew Forster Heddle]] (1828-1897), mineralogist, author of ''The Mineralogy of Scotland'' * [[Malcolm Laing]] (1762-1818), author of the ''History of Scotland from the Union of the Crowns to the Union of the Kingdoms'' * [[Samuel Laing (travel writer)|Samuel Laing]] (1780-1868), author of ''A Residence in Norway'', and translator of the ''Heimskringla, the Icelandic chronicle of the kings of Norway'' * [[Samuel Laing (science writer)|Samuel Laing]] (1812-1897), chairman of the London, Brighton & South Coast railway, and introducer of the system of "parliamentary" trains with fares of one penny a mile * [[Magnus Linklater]] (b.1942), journalist, son of Eric Linklater * [[John D Mackay]] (b.1909), headmaster and Orkney patriot * [[Murdoch McKenzie]] (d.1797), hydrographer * [[Edwin Muir]] (1887-1959), author and poet * [[John Rae (explorer)|Dr. John Rae]] (1813-1893), [[Arctic]] explorer * [[Saint Rognvald|Rognvald Kali Kolsson]] (Saint Rognvald) (c.1103-1158), Earl of Orkney 1136-1158 * [[Julyan Sinclair]], television presenter * [[William Tomison (Hudsons Bay Co.)|William Tomison]] (1766-1818), Chief Factor at the Hudsons Bay Company * [[Thomas Stewart Traill]] (1781-1862), professor of medical [[jurisprudence]] at Edinburgh University and editor of the 8th edition of the ''Encyclopaedia Britannica'' * [[Cameron Stout]] (b.1971)winner of [[Big Brother (UK series 4)|Big Brother]] in 2003, brother of [[Julyan Sinclair]] * [[William Walls]] (1819-1893), lawyer and industrialist * [[Wrigley twins]] Jennifer and Hazel, international folk duo * [[Kristin Linklater]], born 1946, voice teacher, actor, director and author ===People associated with Orkney=== * Rev. [[Matthew Armour]][http://www.orcadian.co.uk/features/articles/centenaryofminister.htm] (1820-1903), [[Sanday, Orkney|Sanday]]'s radical [[Free Church of Scotland (1843-1900)|Free Kirk]] [[Minister of religion|Minister]] * Sir [[Peter Maxwell Davies]] (b.1934), composer and [[Master of the Queen's Music]] * Lt.-Col. George Faulknor Francis Horwood (1838-1897), [[Deputy Lieutenant]] of Orkney * [[Andrew Greig]] (b.1951), Scottish writer * [[Jo Grimond]] (1913-1993), [[Liberal Party (UK)|Liberal Party]] leader and [[Member of Parliament|MP]] for [[Orkney and Shetland (UK Parliament constituency)|Orkney and Shetland]] 1950-1983 * [[David Harvey (footballer)|David Harvey]] (b.1948), footballer * [[Eric Linklater]] (1899-1974), novelist, playwright, journalist, essayist and poet * [[William Sichel]] (b.1951), ultra distance runner * [[Luke Sutherland]] (b.1971), writer of novels ''Jelly Roll'', ''Sweetmeat'' and ''Venus as a Boy'' ==References== {{Reflist|2}} ==See also== * [[List of places in Orkney]] * [[List of Orkney islands]] * [[Bishop of Orkney]] * [[Earl of Orkney]] * [[Orkneyinga saga]] * [[Trow (folklore)|Trow]] * [[Udal Law]] * [[Churchill Barriers]] * [[Italian Chapel]] * [[Orkney vole]] ==External links== {{commons|Orkney Islands|Orkney Islands}} *{{wikitravel}} *[http://www.orkneycommunities.co.uk/ Orkneycommunities.co.uk]- image library, local news and events, directories of community groups and business, websites of community groups *[http://www.orkneyfolkfestival.com/ The Orkney Folk Festival] *[[The Orcadian]], one of Orkney's two local newspapers *[http://www.orkneytoday.co.uk/ Orkney Today], one of Orkney's two local newspapers *[http://www.orkneyjar.com/ Orkneyjar, an Orcadian History and Heritage Site] *[http://www.thesuperstation.co.uk/, The Superstation] Orkney's Local Radio Station *[http://www.british-towns.net/scotland/orkney.asp Orkneys with map] *[http://www.gnewton.ca/travel/2006scotland/ A recent (June, 2006) photo travelogue on Orkney] *[http://www.virtualorkney.com/ Virtual Orkney: A directory of Orkney] *[http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/descriptions/entry_page.jsp;jsessionid=83591791380FA8D941CC8FB0C7DA218B?text_id=135520&word=NULL Vision of Britain - Groome Gazetteer entry for Orkney] *[http://www.BuyOrkney.com/roots/biographies biographical site]. {{Scotland subdivisions}} {{Scotland counties}} {{Orkney Islands}} {{Former possessions of Norway}} {{coor title dm|59|00|N|3|00|W|region:GB_type:adm1st}} <!--Categories--> [[Category:Islands of Scotland]] [[Category:Northern Isles]] [[Category:Lieutenancy areas of Scotland]] [[Category:Orkney]] [[Category:Counties of Scotland]] [[Category:Archipelagoes]] [[Category:Regions of Scotland]] [[Category:Former Norwegian colonies]] [[Category:Planned or proposed tunnels]] [[br:Inizi Orc'h]] [[ca:Illes Òrcades]] [[cs:Orkneje]] [[da:Orkneyøerne]] [[de:Orkney]] [[et:Orkney saared]] [[es:Órcadas]] [[eo:Orkadoj]] [[eu:Orkada uharteak]] [[fa:اورکنی]] [[fo:Orknoyggjar]] [[fr:Orcades]] [[gv:Yn Orkaid]] [[gd:Àrcaibh]] [[gl:Órcadas]] [[ko:오크니 제도]] [[id:Orkney]] [[is:Orkneyjar]] [[it:Isole Orcadi]] [[he:אורקני]] [[lt:Orknio salos]] [[hu:Orkney-szigetek]] [[nl:Orkney-eilanden]] [[ja:オークニー諸島]] [[no:Orknøyene]] [[nn:Orknøyane]] [[oc:Orcadas]] [[pl:Orkady]] [[pt:Órcades]] [[ro:Orkney]] [[ru:Оркнейские острова]] [[sco:Orkney Islands]] [[simple:Orkney Islands]] [[sh:Orkneyski otoci]] [[fi:Orkneysaaret]] [[sv:Orkneyöarna]] [[tr:Orkney Adaları]] [[uk:Оркнейські острови]] [[zh:奥克尼群岛]]