Osijek
149282
224808834
2008-07-10T14:42:43Z
89.201.149.11
{{Infobox settlement
| name = Osijek
| official_name = City of Osijek
| nickname =
| motto =
| image_skyline = Osjecki most.jpg
| image_caption = Bridge across the River Drava
| image_flag =
| image_seal =
| pushpin_map = Croatia
| map_caption = Osijek within Croatia
| subdivision_type = [[Countries of the world|Country]]
| subdivision_type1 = [[Counties of Croatia|County]]
| subdivision_type2 =
| subdivision_name = [[Croatia]]
| subdivision_name1 = [[Osijek-Baranja County]]
| subdivision_name2 =
| established_title =
| established_date =
| established_title2 =
| established_date2 =
| government_type =
| leader_title = Mayor
| leader_name = Gordan Matković
| area_magnitude =
| area_total_sq_mi =
| area_total_km2 = 169
| area_land_sq_mi =
| area_land_km2 =
| area_water_sq_mi =
| area_water_km2 =
| area_urban_sq_mi =
| area_urban_km2 =
| area_metro_km2 =
| area_metro_sq_mi =
| population_as_of = 2001
| population_footnotes =
| population_total = 114,616
| population_urban =
| population_metro =
| population_density_sq_mi =
| population_density_km2 = 678
| timezone = [[Central European Time|CET]]
| utc_offset = +1
| timezone_DST = [[Central European Summer Time|CEST]]
| utc_offset_DST = +2
| postal_code_type = Post code
| postal_code = 31000
| area_code = 31
| blank_name = [[Croatian vehicle registration plates|Licence plate]]
| blank_info = OS
| latd = 45 | latm = 33 | lats = 27.11 | latNS = N
| longd = 18 | longm = 40 | longs = 46.52 | longEW = E
| elevation_footnotes=
| elevation_ft =
| elevation_m = 94
| website = http://www.osijek.hr/
| footnotes =
}}
'''Osijek''' ({{pronounced|ˈɔsjɛk}}) is the fourth largest city in [[Croatia]] with a population of 114,616 in 2001.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dzs.hr/Eng/censuses/Census2001/Popis/E01_01_01/e01_01_01_zup14.html|title=Population by sex and age, by settlements, census 2001: County of Osijek-Baranja|publisher=Republic of Croatia - Central Bureau of Statistics|accessdate=2008-04-25}}</ref> It is the largest city and the economic and cultural centre of the eastern Croatian region of [[Slavonia]], as well as the administrative centre of [[Osijek-Baranja county]]. Osijek is located on the right bank of the river [[Drava]], {{convert|25|km|mi}} upstream of its [[Confluence (geography)|confluence]] with the [[Danube]], at an elevation of {{convert|94|m|ft}}.
==Name==
The name was given to the city due to its position on elevated ground which prevented the city being flooded by the local swamp waters. Its name ''Osijek'' comes from the [[Croatian language|Croatian]] word "oseka" which means "[[ebb tide]]".
Due to its past and its history within the [[Habsburg Monarchy]] and briefly in the [[Ottoman Empire]] and also due to the presence of German and Hungarian minorities throughout its history, Osijek also has (or had) its names in other languages, notably [[Hungarian language|Hungarian]]: ''Eszék'', [[German language|German]]: ''Esseg'', [[Latin language|Latin]]: ''Essec'', [[Turkish language|Turkish]]: ''Ösek''. All those names were adjusted variations to the original Croatian given name. In Roman times Osijek was called ''Mursa Maior''.
==History==
===Origins===
[[Image:St. Michael's Church, Osijek.jpg|thumb|left|St. Michael's Church, in Osijek's Baroque [[Tvrđa]]]]
The origins of human habitation of Osijek dates back to [[Neolithic]] times, with the first known inhabitants belonging to the [[Illyrians|Illyrian tribes]]. [[Roman emperor]] [[Hadrian]] raised the old settlement of Mursa to a colony with special privileges in 131. After that, Mursa had a turbulent history, with several decisive battles taking place (among which the [[Battle of Mursa Major]] in 351 and the battle between [[Aureolus]] and [[Ingenuus]] in 260), deciding the destiny of the whole region. After their migration, the Croats made a settlement near the ruins of Mursa, giving it its present name, Osijek. Life was thriving here in the [[Middle Ages]], but only traces of that life can be found today because the Turks destroyed everything they found and made a town to suit their style.
The earliest mentions of Osijek date to 1196. The town was a feudal property of the [[Korogyi family]] between 1353 and 1472. The city was sacked and destroyed by the [[Ottoman Empire]] on [[August 8]], [[1526]]. The Turks rebuilt it in oriental style and it was mentioned in the Turkish [[census]] of 1579. [[Suleiman the Magnificent]] built a famous, 8 kilometer long wooden bridge in Osijek, considered to be one of the wonders of the world. The town was officially promoted to a city by the end of the 17th century.
===Habsburg Empire===
Osijek was restored to western rule when on [[September 29]], [[1687]] it was occupied by the [[Habsburg Empire]]. Between 1712 and 1721, new Austrian authorities built a new fortress (authored by the architect Maximilian de Gosseau), known as [[Tvrđa]]. It is a unique urban and military complex that lies in the heart of the town. Its main central Holy Trinity Square is closed on the north by the building of the Military Command, on the west there is the Main Guard building and on the east is the Magistrate building (presently Museum of Slavonia). In the middle there is a monument to the plague, erected in 1729 by general Petras' widow. The Gornji Grad (Upper Town) was founded in 1692 and Donji Grad (Lower Town) followed on 1698. Tvrđa, Gornji and Donji grad continued as separate municipalities until 1786. In late 18th century it took over from [[Virovitica]] as the centre of the [[Verőce]] county.
[[Image:Secesija osijek.jpg|thumb|right|Secessionist architecture]]
In 1809 Osijek was granted the title of a [[Free Royal City]] and during the early 19th century it was the largest city in Croatia. The city developed along the lines of other central [[Europe]]an cities, with cultural, architectural and socio-economic influences filtering down from [[Vienna]] and [[Budapest]].
[[Image:Osijek.jpg|thumb|left|Secession Façade of Osijek]]
During the 19th century, cultural life mostly revolved around the [[theatre]], museums (the first [[museum]] was opened in 1877 by private donations), collections and printing houses (the [[Franciscans]]). City society, whose development was accompanied by a prosperous [[Economics|economy]] and developed [[trade]] relations, was related to [[religious]] festivals, public events (fairs), entertainment and sports. The Novi Grad (New Town) section of the city was built in the 19th century, as well as Retfala to the west.
===20th century===
The newest additions to the city include Sjenjak, Vijenac, Jug and Jug II, which were built in the 20th century. The city's geographical riverside location, and noted cultural and historical heritage — particularly the [[baroque]] [[Tvrđa]], one of the most attractive structures in the region — facilitated the development of [[tourism]].
During the [[Croatian War of Independence|war in Croatia]] from 1991 to 1995 the city avoided heavy destruction (unlike nearby [[Vukovar]], for example) and sustained moderate damage, especially to the centre and [[Co-cathedral]] of St. Peter and St. Paul[http://www.svpetaripavao.hr/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=6&Itemid=9] and to the periphery. More than a thousand (over 1200) civilians also died in the daily bombarding of the town during the aggression.[http://www.index.hr/clanak.aspx?id=331081] While some buildings still have mild damage, most often the occasional superficial [[pockmark]] from shelling, the city's facades are generally in good shape, due to extensive restoration in recent times, preserving the charm of its intricate [[Austro-Hungarian]] [[Baroque]] architecture in the older quarters of town.
==Population==
According to the 1910 census, the city had 31,388 inhabitants. One source lists 12,625 as [[Croats]], 11,269 as [[Germans]], 7,500 as [[Jews]], and 3,729 as [[Magyars]],<ref>László Zentai and Pál Kósa (eds.) [http://www.talmakiado.hu/ Talma Kiadó Atlas and Gazetteer of Historic Hungary 1914], Talma Kiadó, 2001</ref> but note that these figures sum to more than the total population.
According to the 1981 census, the total population had reached 158,790, including 90,770 (57.16 per cent) Croats and 28,536 (17.97 per cent) [[Serbs]].{{Fact|date=January 2008}}
Prior to the Croatian War of Independence, the 1991 census recorded a total population of 165,253, composed of 110,934 (67.1 per cent) Croats, 33,146 (20.0 per cent) Serbs, 3,156 (1.9 per cent) [[Hungarians]], 276 (0.16 per cent) [[Germans]] and 17,741 (10.7 per cent) people categorised as Yugoslavs or 'others'.{{Fact|date=January 2008}}
According to the latest census, taken in 2001, the total population of Osijek is 114,616. Croats make up the majority of Osijek's citizens, comprising 86.58 per cent of the city's population. Other ethnicities include 8,767 (7.65 per cent) Serbs, 480 (0.42 per cent) [[Albanians]], 211 (0.18 per cent) [[Bosniaks]], 175 (0.15 per cent) [[Montenegrins]], 1,154 (1.01 per cent) Hungarians, 178 (0.16 per cent) [[Macedonians (ethnic group)|ethnic Macedonians]], 124 (0.11 per cent) [[Roma people|Roma]], and others including 14 Jews.<ref>[http://www.dzs.hr/Eng/censuses/Census2001/Popis/E01_02_02/E01_02_02_zup14.html Population by ethnicity, by towns/municipalities, census 2001], Crostat, accessed 13 January 2008</ref>
Osijek's population includes 96,600 (84.28 per cent) [[Roman Catholics]], 78 (0.07 per cent) [[Eastern Rite Catholic Churches|Eastern-rite Catholics]], 8,619 (7.52 per cent) [[Orthodox Christians]], and 966 (0.84 per cent) [[Muslims]] and others.{{Fact|date=January 2008}}
[[Image:Urania Cinema, Osijek.jpg|thumb|right|Kino Urania (Urania Cinema), Osijek]]
==Institutions and industries==
Major institutions in the city include the [[University of Osijek|University]] [[Josip Juraj Strossmayer]] (established in 1975), the [[Croatian National Theatre]], the [[Museum of Slavonia]] (established in 1877), and the [[printing house]] dating to 1735. The city also has several [[gymnasium (school)|gymnasiums]], the oldest of which dates to 1729, a drawing school from the 19th century, a [[zoo|zoological garden]], a centre for the promotion of livestock breeding, and an institute for [[sugar beet]] farming.
The ''Saponia'' chemical factory is the largest factory located in the Osijek area. It is a major producer of detergents, soap and cosmetics whose products are recognized throughout the region as being of quality. It is by far the largest exporter in the city area. Other industries include a regional [[brewery]], the Pivovara Osijek, and a sugar processing plant.
The Osijek area used to be much more industrialised and a broad range of goods and products were being manufactured there. One of the earliest factories was the ''Drava'' [[match]] factory, established in 1856, which no longer exists. Other industries included production of synthetic materials, agricultural machinery, metal [[furniture]], [[wood]] and [[timber]], [[textiles]], footwear, and [[silk]], as well as metal processing and [[printing]]. However, the 1990s saw most of these industries decline and in some cases close completely. However, the city remains at the centre of an important [[agriculture|agricultural]] region.
==Politics==
At the November 2007 elections no party held a majority, which is not unusual for Croatia as local elections have [[proportional representation]]. However the three mathematically possible coalitions had political problems that made coalition building unusually difficult. The November elections were early (izvanredne) elections caused by the breakdown of the coalition of the two main right wing parties, the [[Croatian Party of Rights]] (HSP) and the [[Croatian Democratic Assembly of Slavonia and Baranja]] (HDSSB). The cause of the breakdown was disagreement over the building of a new sports stadium.<ref>[http://vijesti.hrt.hr/content/view/42334/10/ Šutnja u Osijeku]</ref><ref name=Newelections>{{cite news|url=http://www.vlada.hr/en/naslovnica/novosti_i_najave/2008/sijecanj/vlada_izbori_u_osijeku_9_ozujka|title=Government calls early elections in Osijek for 9 March|publisher=Government of the Republic of Croatia|date=2008-01-24|accessdate=2008-03-10}}</ref>
At the elections held on the [[25 November]] 2007, the [[Croatian Party of Rights]] (HSP) and the [[Croatian Democratic Assembly of Slavonia and Baranja]] (HDSSB) gained 7 seats each, the [[Social Democratic Party of Croatia|Social Democratic Party]] (SDP) 6 seats, the [[Croatian Democratic Union]] (HDZ) 4, and the [[Croatian People's Party – Liberal Democrats]] (HNS) 1.<ref name=HRT>[http://vijesti.hrt.hr/ShowArticles.aspx?ArticleId=38288 Osijek: Pokušaj riješavanja krize], Hrvatska radiotelevizija, 26 December 2007, accessed 13 January 2008</ref>. A possible coalition between HDSSB and SDP provoked criticism of the Social Democrats for lack of principle such as from [[Damir Kajin]], who called it a 'sellotape coalition', alluding to the charges of war crimes that the HDSSB leader [[Branimir Glavaš]] is facing.<ref>[http://izbori.hrt.hr/content/view/2299/29/ IDS osuđuje trgovinu Vlade i Osijeka], Hrvatska radiotelevizija, 21 December 2007, accessed 13 January 2008</ref>
After the parties failed to agree a coalition, the Croatian government called new elections for the city.<ref name=Newelections/> These elections took place on [[9 March]] [[2008]] and gave the Croatian Party of Rights 9 councilors, the Croatian Democratic Assembly of Slavonia and Baranja 6, HDZ, 5, SDP, 3 and a coalition of HNS and two smaller parties 2. [[Anto Đapić]] has expressed his hope for a coalition with the HDZ.<ref>http://vijesti.hrt.hr/content/view/42374/10/ HSP najjači u Osijeku</ref>
==Society and culture==
[[Image:Osjecka fontana.jpg|thumb|left|Fountain on Trg Ante Starčevića]]
[[Image:Osjecka promenada.jpg|thumb|left|Promenade along the Drava]]
===Tourist attractions===
Osijek remains a popular domestic [[tourist]] destination for its [[Baroque]] style, open spaces and ample recreational opportunities. The most important sights in the city include the main square, Trg [[Ante Starčević]]a, [[Tvrđa]] the 18th century Baroque citadel, the promenade along the Drava ("promenada"), and the suspension pedestrian [[bridge]] toward [[Baranja]].
The Municipal Park of [[List of rulers of Croatia|King]] [[Petar Krešimir IV of Croatia|Petar Krešimir IV]] and the [[Tomislav]] Park date from the beginning of the 20th century, and are protected national landmarks. Osijek is also home to one of the few Croatian zoological gardens, along the Drava river.
===Cultural events===
Numerous events take place in the city throughout the year. The most important of them are the Croatian [[Tamburica|Tambura]] [[Music]] Festival (in May), attended by tambura [[orchestra]]s from all over Croatia and the ''Osijek Summer Nights'' (during June, July and August), a series of cultural and entertainment programs in the open, accompanied by excellent food and fairs. The Day of the City of Osijek is celebrated with a cultural and artistic activities and exhibitions.
===Sports===
The recreational and sports centre ''Copacabana'', located on the left bank of the Drava river, provides opportunities for various water sports (outdoor [[swimming]] pools and a sand beach with various facilities) during the summer months. The city offers various playgrounds: [[football (soccer)|football]], [[team handball|handball]], [[basketball]], [[tennis]] courts, etc. [[NK Osijek]] are the city's main football team, playing in the [[Prva HNL|Croatian First League]] at [[Gradski vrt]] stadium. The city is also home to a number of smaller teams including [[NK Grafičar Vodovod]] and [[NK Metalac]]. Before the [[Second World War]], the city's most successful club was [[Slavija Osijek]], which collapsed in 1941. A new handball hall is being built in the city so that it can host matches for the [[2009 World Men's Handball Championship]].<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.javno.com/en/croatia/clanak.php?id=100819|author=Karmen Horvat|title=Osijek sports hall construction contract signed|publisher=Javno.com|date=2007-11-23|accessdate=2008-03-23}}</ref>
The surroundings of Osijek provide opportunities for [[hunting]] and [[angling]] on the Drava river and its backwaters. Hunting in the area known as ''[[Kopacki Rit|Kopački Rit]]'' (in [[Baranja]]) is famous beyond the borders of Croatia.
===Cuisine===
The abundance of game and agriculture has made Osijek the country's semi-official gastronomical capital. Local dishes include traditional Slavonian-style specialities ([[kulen]], paprika-flavoured sausage, other kinds of sausages, [[ham (meat)|ham]], bacon, [[dairy]] products), as well as [[venison]] and [[fish]] dishes such as the famous [[Fish soup|riblji paprikaš]] (fish stew made with [[paprika]]). Two brands of [[beer]] are brewed in Osijek: Osječko and Esseker. There is also the Baranja [[wine]] offered in restaurants.
==Transport==
[[Image:Renewed Osijek Tram.JPG|thumb|right|Osijek tram]]
Transport links to and from Osijek include major [[railway]] and [[highway]] junctions, a [[river port]], and [[Osijek Airport]]. International flights from the airport to [[Cologne/Bonn Airport]] in [[Germany]] commenced in March 2008.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.osijek-airport.hr/en/novosti/danas-polijecemo.html|title=First international flight departs from Osijek International Airport|publisher=Osijek Airport|date=2008-03-14|accessdate=2008-03-23}}</ref> A full motorway, linking the important city to the rest of the Croatian motorway network and the major [[Pan-European corridor]] 5c, is well under construction and will reach Osijek by 2008. From Osijek it is possible to get the train to destinations including [[Zagreb]], [[Rijeka]], [[Požega, Croatia|Požega]], [[Virovitica]], [[Našice]], [[Slavonski Brod]], [[Slavonski Šamac]], [[Erdut]], [[Vrpolje]], [[Dalj]], [[Đakovo]] and [[Beli Manastir]], from where there are connections on to [[Hungary]]. There is also a daily service from [[Budapest]] to [[Sarajevo]] that stops in Osijek.
A small [[tram]] network runs through the city, which has been in continuous operation since 1884 and is the only tram network still in operation in Croatia outside of Zagreb. The network is currently being completely overhauled and more than doubled in length, and the city's old trams are being modernized.
== Famous people from Osijek ==
{{main|List of people from Osijek}}
Famous people who were born or have lived in Osijek include [[Matija Petar Katančić]], an 18th century Croatian writer, professor of archaeology, translator of the Bible into Croatian, and author of the first paper over the archaeology in Croatia), [[Josip Juraj Strossmayer]], a Croatian Maecenas bishop, [[Franjo Šeper]], Archbishop of Zagreb from 1960-1968, and Prefect of the Congregation for the Doctrine of the Faith from 1968-1981, [[Francis, Duke of Teck]], a German prince and father of [[Mary of Teck]] (later the [[Queen Consort]] of [[George V of the United Kingdom|George V]]) hence the great grandfather of [[Queen Elizabeth II]], politicians [[Vladimir Šeks]] and [[Branimir Glavaš]], painters [[Adolf Waldinger]] and [[Bela Čikoš Sesija]], musicians [[Franjo Krežma]], [[Miroslav Škoro]], [[Branko Mihaljević]] and [[Krunoslav Slabinac]], historian [[Ferdo Šišić]], TV journalist [[Vladimir Herzog]], Hollywood producer [[Branko Lustig]], footballers [[Davor Šuker]] and [[Franjo Glaser]], and tennis player [[Jelena Dokić]]. Nobel Prize winners [[Lavoslav Ružička|Lavoslav (Leopold) Ružička]] and [[Vladimir Prelog]] also lived in the city, as did meteorologist and seismologist [[Andrija Mohorovičić]].
==Twin towns==
[[Image:Twin towns sign, Osijek.jpg|thumb|Sign showing Osijek's twin towns]]
Osijek is twinned with:<ref>[http://www.osijek.hr/eng/twincities.asp Twin towns], City of Osijek, accessed 16 January 2008</ref>
*{{flagicon|Hungary}} [[Budapest]], [[List of districts in Budapest|XIII district]], [[Hungary]]
*{{flagicon|Switzerland}} [[Lausanne]], [[Switzerland]]
*{{flagicon|Slovenia}} [[Maribor]], [[Slovenia]]
*{{flagicon|Slovakia}} [[Nitra]], [[Slovakia]]
*{{flagicon|Hungary}} [[Pécs]], [[Hungary]]
*{{flagicon|Germany}} [[Pforzheim]], [[Germany]]
*{{flagicon|Romania}} [[Ploieşti]], [[Romania]]
*{{flagicon|Bosnia and Herzegovina}} [[Tuzla]], [[Bosnia and Herzegovina]]
==References==
<references/>
==External links==
* [http://www.osijek.hr/ Official web site]
* [http://wikitravel.org/en/Osijek/ Wikitravel Osijek site]
* [http://www.osijek031.com Osijek 031 city portal]
* [http://www.osijek-online.com/ Osijek Online]
* [http://www.tzosijek.hr/ Osijek tourist information]
* [http://www.hr/darko/etf/osijek.html History of Osijek]
* [http://www.mojosijek.deviantart.com Pictures of Osijek]
{{Croatian cities}}
{{Osijek-Baranja}}
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