Shoe polish
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[[Image:Open black Kiwi.JPG|thumb|right|An open can of shoe polish with a side-mounted opening [[lever|mechanism]] visible at the top of the photo]]
'''Shoe polish''' (or '''boot polish'''), usually a waxy [[paste (rheology)|paste]] or a [[cream (pharmaceutical)|cream]], is a consumer product used to [[polishing|shine]], [[waterproofing|waterproof]], and restore the appearance of [[leather]] [[shoe]]s or [[boot]]s, thereby extending the [[footwear]]'s life. In some regions—including New Zealand—"Nugget" is used as a common term for solid waxy shoe polish, as opposed to liquid shoe polishes.
Various substances have been used as shoe polish for hundreds of years, starting with natural substances such as [[wax]] and [[tallow]]. Modern polish formulae were introduced early in the 20th century and some products from that era are still in use today. Today, shoe polish is usually made from a mix of natural and [[Chemical synthesis|synthetic]] materials, including [[naphtha]], [[turpentine]], [[dye]]s, and [[gum arabic]], using straightforward [[chemical engineering]] processes. Shoe polish can be [[toxicity|toxic]], and, if misused, can stain skin.
The popularity of shoe polish paralleled a general rise in leather and synthetic shoe production, beginning in the 19th century and continuing into the 20th. The World Wars saw a surge in demand for the product, in order to polish army boots.
== Usage ==
[[Image:Bull polished drill boots.JPG|thumb|right|"Spit" or "Bull" polished boots]]
Shoe polish is applied to the shoe using a rag, cloth, or brush. Shoe polish is not a cleaning product, and therefore the footwear should be both clean and dry before application. A vigorous rubbing action to apply the polish evenly on the boot, followed by further buffing with a clean dry cloth or brush, usually provides good results.<ref name=DIY>[http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/diy_waxes.htm Stain Removal, Waxes, Polishes and Cleaners.] Diy Doctor Ltd. Accessed [[November 27]], [[2007]].</ref> Another technique, known as ''spit-polishing'' or [[bull polishing]], involves gently rubbing polish into the leather with a cloth and a drop of water or [[Saliva|spit]]. This achieves the mirror-like, high-gloss finish sometimes known as a ''spit shine'' which is especially valued in military organizations. Polishes containing [[carnauba wax]] can be used as a protective coating to extend the life and look of a leather shoe.<ref>Morris, Theodore. "[http://www.freepatentsonline.com/3700013.html Protective Coating Compositions]". United States Patent 3700013, FreePatentsOnline.com. Accessed [[February 05]], [[2008]].</ref>
[[Image:BananaShoeShine.gif|150px|thumb|left|A banana peel being used to clean and polish shoes]]
Shoe polish may be purchased pre-soaked into a hard sponge, which can be used to buff leather without needing to apply any additional polish to either the leather or the sponge. This is usually known as an ''applicator''. A number of companies that manufacture shoe care products also sell a liquid shoe polish in a squeezable plastic bottle, with a small sponge applicator at the end. To decrease its viscosity, bottled polish usually has a very low wax content.
There are many products closely related to shoe polish, but not strictly considered as such. Other chemical products may be used to clean and shine shoes—in particular whiteners for white shoes, and a variety of sprays and [[aerosol spray|aerosols]] for cleaning and waterproofing [[suede]] shoes.<ref name=CompComm326c6>[http://www.competition-commission.org.uk/rep_pub/reports/1992/fulltext/326c6.pdf Conclusions] (PDF). UK Competition Commission (1992) - Conclusions of a report on Sara Lee and the shoe polish market in general. Accessed [[November 26]] [[2007]].</ref> A banana peel can also be used to effectively shine shoes.<ref>[http://books.google.com/books?q=%22banana%22+shine+shoes&as_brr=0 Google search on banana shine shoes]. Google.com. Accessed [[November 28]] [[2006]].</ref>
Although shoe polish is primarily intended for leather shoes, some brands specify that they may be used on non-porous materials, such as [[vinyl]]. The polish is generally the same colour as the shoes it will be used upon, or it may be ''neutral'', lacking any intrinsic colour.
== History ==
===Before the twentieth century===
[[Image:Dubbin Open.jpg|thumb|right|An open can of [[dubbin]]]]
Since medieval times, [[dubbin]], a waxy product, was used to soften and waterproof leather; however, it did not impart shine. It was made from natural [[wax]], [[oil]], [[soda ash]] and [[tallow]]. As leather with a high natural veneer became popular in the eighteenth century, a high glossy finish became important, particularly on shoes and boots. In most cases, a variety of homemade polishes were used to provide this finish, often with [[lanolin]] or [[beeswax]] as a base.
In the nineteenth century, many forms of shoe polish became available, yet were rarely referred to as ''shoe polish'' or ''boot polish''. Instead, they were often called ''blacking'' (especially when mixed with [[lampblack]]), or simply continued to be referred to as dubbin. [[Tallow]], an animal by-product, was used to manufacture a simple form of shoe polish at this time. [[Chicago, Illinois|Chicago]], [[Illinois]], where 82% of the meat consumed in the United States was processed in the [[Union Stock Yards|stock yards]], became a major shoe polish producing area for this reason.<ref>[http://www.chicagohs.org/history/stockyard/stock2.html History files, The Stockyards: Slaughterhouse to the world, Meatpacking technology.] Chicago Historical Society. Accessed [[November 27]], [[2007]].</ref>
Prior to 1906, shoe polish was not well known as a purchasable product, nor was it particularly sophisticated. While sales were not especially high, a few brands, like ''Nugget'', were available in the U.K. during the 1800s. The practice of shining people’s shoes gradually caught on and soon many [[shoeshiner|shoeshine boys]] in city streets were offering shoe shines using a basic form of shoe polish along with a polishing cloth.<ref>[http://www.shoeshine-boy.com/geschichte/geschichte.html History of shoe shining.] shoeshine-boy.com. Accessed [[November 28]], [[2007]].</ref>
===Modern polish===
[[Image:Erdal.gif|left|thumb|A can of the German shoe polish, Erdal]]
While a number of older leather preserving products existed (including the Irish brand ''Punch'', which was first made in 1851, and the German brand, Erdal, which went on sale in 1901), the first shoe polish to resemble the modern varieties (aimed primarily at inducing shine) was [[Kiwi (shoe polish)|Kiwi]]. Scottish [[expatriate]]s William Ramsay and Hamilton McKellan began making "boot polish" in a small factory in 1904 in [[Melbourne]], [[Australia]].<ref>[http://web.archive.org/web/20040222212058/http://www.whitehat.com.au/Cemetery/Graves/Ramsay.html William Ramsay.] White Hat Tours ([[February 22]], [[2004]]). Internet archive version. Accessed [[November 11]], [[2007]].</ref> Their formula was a major improvement on previous brands. It preserved shoe leather, made it shine, and restored color. By the time Kiwi Dark Tan was released in 1908, it incorporated agents that added suppleness and water resistance. Australian-made boot polish was then considered the world's best. Black and a range of colors became available, and exports to Britain, continental Europe, and New Zealand began.
He named the shoe polish after the [[kiwi]], the [[national bird]] of [[New Zealand]]; Ramsay's wife, Annie Elizabeth Meek Ramsay, was a native of [[Oamaru]], New Zealand.<ref>[http://www.kiwiphile.org/sep2000.html Going High to Hauroki.] Kiwiphile, Volume XIII, No. 1, September 2000. Accessed [[November 27]], [[2007]].</ref> It has been suggested that, at a time when several symbols were weakly associated with New Zealand, the eventual spread of Kiwi shoe polish around the world enhanced the Kiwi's popular appeal and promoted it at the expense of the others.<ref name="aus">[http://www.ipaustralia.gov.au/centenary/pdf/Chapter_3.pdf Imagination: 100 years of bright ideas in Australia] (PDF). Australian Government, chapter 3 (iv) [[2004-01-22]], page 7. Accessed [[November 28]], [[2007]]. </ref>
A rival brand in the early years was ''Cobra Boot Polish'', based in [[Sydney]]. Cobra was noted for a series of cartoon advertisements in ''[[The Bulletin|The Sydney Bulletin]]'', starting in 1909, using a character called "Chunder Loo of Akim Foo." The word ''chunder'', means "to vomit", and possibly originated through the [[rhyming slang]] of ''Chunder Loo'' and ''spew''.<ref>Dodd, Robert. [http://takeourword.com/TOW173/page4.html Sez you.] Take Our Word For It, Issue 173, page 4. Accessed [[November 27]], [[2007]].</ref>
===Surge in popularity===
[[Image:Jeanbartpolish.jpg|right|thumb|1930s advertisement for ''cirage'' (French for shoe polish) using the [[corsair]] [[Jean Bart]]]]
[[Image:PM Cherry1.JPG|right|thumb|Three common types of [[United Kingdom|British]] shoe polish of 1960s]]
At the end of the nineteenth century, leather shoes and boots became affordable to the masses, and with the outbreak of World War I in 1914, the demand for large numbers of polished army boots led to a need in the [[marketing|market]] for a product that would allow boots to be polished quickly, efficiently and easily. The polish was also used to shine leather [[belt (clothing)|belt]]s, handgun [[holster]]s, and [[horse tack]]. This demand led to a rapid increase in the sales of shoe and boot polish. The popularity of Kiwi shoe polish spread throughout the [[Commonwealth of Nations|British Commonwealth]] and the United States. Rival brands began to emerge, including ''[[Shinola]]'' and ''Cavalier'' (United States), ''Cherry Blossom'' (United Kingdom), ''Parwa'' (India), ''Jean Bart'' (France), and many others. Advertising became more prominent; many shoe polish brands used fictional figures or historical characters to spread awareness of their products.
[[Image:CBlossom Ad.jpg|left|thumb|1930s British advertisement for Cherry Blossom boot polish]]
Shoe manufacturing improvements in the mid-1800s allowed for factories to produce large amounts of shoes made of leather, and later synthetic materials. This increase in leather shoe production continued well into the 1900s and led to a surge in the number of retail shoe stores in the industrialized world, and a subsequently a call for shoe polish by footwear consumers.
Shoe polish was to be found just about everywhere [[Allied]] troops ventured.<ref>[http://web.archive.org/web/20040222212058/http://www.whitehat.com.au/Cemetery/Graves/Ramsay.html Information on the burial place of Kiwi founder William Ramsay]. Accessed [[November 28]], [[2007]]</ref> American [[war correspondent]] Walter Graeber wrote for ''[[Time (magazine)|TIME]]'' magazine from the [[Tobruk]] trenches in 1942 that "old tins of British-made Kiwi polish lay side by side with empty bottles of Chianti."<ref>[http://www.kiwiphile.org/sep2000.html Kiwi Boot Polish], Kiwiphile Magazine, September 2000. Accessed [[November 28]], [[2007]].</ref> A story indicative of the rise in global significance of shoe polish is told by Jean (Gertrude) Williams, a New Zealander who lived in Japan during the Allied occupation straight after World War II. American soldiers were then finding the dullness of their boots and shoes to be a handicap when trying to win the affections of Japanese women.<ref name="aus"/>
<blockquote>When the British Commonwealth Occupation Forces arrived in Japan—all with boots polished to a degree not known in the U.S. forces—the [[GI (term)|G.I.]]s were more conscious than ever of their feet. The secret was found to rest not only in spit and polish, but in the superior Australian boot polish, a commodity which was soon exchanged with the Americans on a fluctuating basis of so many packets of cigarettes for one can of Kiwi boot polish.</blockquote>
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Soldiers returning from the war continued to use the product, leading to a further surge in its popularity. While Kiwi shoe polish was what business historian [[Alfred D. Chandler, Jr.]] would call a "first mover", Kiwi did not open a manufacturing plant in the USA until after World War II. Prior to this, Cavalier Shoe Polish, founded by James Lobell, had operated in the USA since 1913. The sales paradigm of Cavalier polish was to have footwear professionals sell Cavalier's high-end shoe polish to the shoe-buying public. A few years after World War II, Kiwi opened a manufacturing plant in [[Philadelphia]], making only black, brown, and neutral shoe polish in tins. Kiwi purchased Cavalier in 1961, and continued to manufacture products under the name until the year 2000.
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===Modern day===
[[Image:Shoe-polish-guy-Bombay.jpg|250px|thumb|A [[Shoeshiner|boot polisher]] on a railway platform in [[Mumbai]], [[India]]]]
Shoe polish products are low-value items that are infrequently purchased. Consumer demand is [[Elasticity (economics)|inelastic]] and largely insensitive to price change, while sales volumes are generally low. In the shoe polish market as a whole, some 26% of turnover is accounted for by pastes, 24% by creams, 23% by aerosols, and 13% by liquids.<ref name=CompComm326c6/> In recent years, the demand for shoe polish products has either been static or declined; one reason is the gradual replacement of formal footwear with [[Sneaker (footwear)|sneakers]] for everyday use.
There are numerous branded products available, as well as generic [[store brand]]s. There are two chief areas of shoe polish sales: to the general public, and to specialists and trade, such as shoe repairers, and [[Shoemaking|cobbler]]s. The sales percentages between the two outlets are roughly comparable.<ref name=CCSaraLee>[http://www.competition-commission.org.uk/rep_pub/reports/1992/326saralee.htm Sara Lee Corporation and Reckitt & Colman plc: A report on the acquisition by the Sara Lee Corporation of part of the shoe care business of Reckitt & Colman plc.] UK Competition Commission (1992). Accessed on [[November 27]], [[2007]].</ref>
[[Kiwi (shoe polish)|Kiwi]] remains the predominant shoe polish [[brand]] in most of the world, being sold in over 180 countries and holding a 53% market share worldwide.<ref name=CCSaraLee/> Today, it is manufactured in Australia, Canada, France, India, Pakistan, South Africa, Spain, the United Kingdom, and the United States. Other leading brands include ''Kelly's'', ''[[Shinola (brand)|Shinola]]'', ''Lincoln Shoe Polish'', ''Meltonian'', ''Angelus'', and ''Cherry Blossom''.<ref name=CompComm326c6/>
Kiwi was acquired by the American company [[Sara Lee]] following its purchase of Reckitt and Colman in 1991 and Knomark with its brand [[Esquire Shoe Polish]] in 1987.<ref name=CompComm326c6/><ref name=CCSaraLee/> The [[Federal Trade Commission]] ruled that Sara Lee had to divest its ownership of these companies in 1994 to prevent it from becoming a [[monopoly]]. Since this ruling, Sara Lee has been prevented from acquiring any further assets or firms associated with chemical shoe care products in the United States without prior commission approval.<ref>[http://www.ftc.gov/os/annualreports/ar1994.pdf Sara Lee's potential monopoly (annual report)] (PDF). Federal Trade Commission (1994). Accessed [[November 27]] [[2007]]. </ref> The [[Competition Commission]] in the United Kingdom investigated the potential monopoly of Sara Lee in the shoe care industry.<ref name=CCSaraLee/><ref>{{cite press release|url=http://www.usdoj.gov/atr/public/press_releases/1996/0521.htm|title=Sara Lee Will Pay Record $3.1 Million Civil Penalty for Violating Antitrust Premerger Notification Requirements|date=[[February 6]] [[1996]]|publisher=US Department of Justice}}. Accessed [[November 27]], [[2007]]</ref>
Empty shoe polish bottles can be used to create graffiti, by dumping out the polish inside and filling it full of ink or paint. They are used as a cheap alternative to markers designed for graffiti, and are much more widely available.<ref>[http://www.godisart.com/Articles/kiwi.html Idiot's guide to Kiwi mops] godisart.com. Accessed [[November 27]], [[2007]].</ref>
==Composition and toxicology==
[[Image:Kiwi with brush.jpg|thumb|right|Shoe polish with a shoe brush]]
Shoe polish consists of a waxy [[colloid]]al [[emulsion]], a substance composed of a number of partially [[immiscible]] liquids and solids mixed together. It is usually made from ingredients including some or all of [[naphtha]], [[lanolin]], [[turpentine]], [[wax]] (often [[Carnauba wax]]), [[gum arabic]], [[ethylene glycol]], and if required a colourant, such as [[carbon black]] or an [[azo dye]] (such as [[aniline yellow]]). It typically has a [[specific gravity]] of 0.8, is negligibly [[soluble]] in water, and is made of between 65 and 77% [[Volatility (chemistry)|volatile]]—usually naphtha. The high amount of volatile substances means that the shoe polish will dry out and harden after application, while retaining its shine.<ref>[http://www.herc.org/library/msds/shoepolish.htm Kiwi brands -- shoe polish: Material safety data sheet.] Health and Environment Resource Center. Accessed [[November 27]], [[2007]].</ref>
[[Lanolin]], a [[Hydrophile|hydrophilic]] [[Grease (lubricant)|grease]] from [[wool]]-bearing animals such as sheep or goats, acts as both a waterproofing wax and a bonding agent, giving the shoe polish its greasy feel and texture. It prevents the naphtha from [[evaporation|evaporating]] until the polish has been spread and buffed into a thin film on the leather surface. An essential ingredient in shoe polish is a thickener; without this, the polish would be too runny, making it difficult to use. [[Gum arabic]], a substance from two [[Sub-Saharan Africa|sub-Saharan]] species of the [[acacia]] tree, is commonly used to increase the [[viscosity]] of the product.
Shoe polish contains chemicals which can be absorbed through the skin, or inhaled. When handling shoe polish, one should ideally wear gloves, and stay in a [[Ventilation (architecture)|well-ventilated]] area. Shoe polish should be kept out of reach of children and animals. It can stain the skin for a protracted period of time, and will cause irritation to the eye if there is direct contact.<ref>[http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=11001005&query=shoe+polish&searchas=TblProduct Household Products Database: Kiwi Scuff Magic, Black.] National Institutes of Health, National Library of Medicine ([[1997-12-04]]). Accessed [[November 27]] [[2007]].</ref>
== Manufacture ==
[[Image:Lincolnblack.jpg|thumb|right|A can of Lincoln shoe polish, in a 2-ounce tin]]
Shoe polish can be manufactured using large [[vat]]s, reasonably powerful heaters and air conditioners. There is no set method of manufacture, although most methods use pressures of two [[atmosphere (unit)|atmospheres]] to ensure the [[naphtha]] does not boil off, and temperatures of up to 85 [[°C]].<ref>[http://nerdatabank.nic.in/techshoe.htm Northeast India Database: Shoe Polish.] National Informatics Centre, Assam, North Eastern Development Finance Corporation Ltd. Accessed [[November 27]] [[2007]].</ref>
The first step in the manufacture of a typical shoe polish is the melting of the wax with the highest [[melting point]] in an electric [[heater]]. Following this, all other waxes are added, usually by descending order of melting point. Whilst this wax is held at a constant temperature, the [[emulsion]]—a mixture of the various oils and, if used, [[fat]]s, is then heated separately, at around 85 °C. The heated emulsion is then added to the waxes, along with [[distilled water]]. When the mixture reaches around 80 °C, turpentine oil is added. This mixture is then mixed and continually stirred for half an hour. Dyes are added and mixed in turpentine oil if it is not a neutral polish. The mixed mass is reduced slowly to 50 °C, and as its viscosity increases, it is poured through a closed [[funnel]] into a cooling chamber. The poured mass is allowed to settle slowly, providing uniform distribution. The process is considered straightforward and the required equipment is relatively easy to acquire. The cost of establishing shoe polish manufacturing facilities has been estimated at around [[USD|$]]600,000 (as of 2005).<ref name=CompComm326c6/>
Shoe polish is traditionally packaged in flat, round, 60-gram (2-ounce) [[Tin can|tin]]s, usually with an easy-open facility. Because the amount of shoe polish that needs to be applied is small, and the shoe polish will [[desiccate]] due to volatile ingredients, such as [[naphtha]], a large container would dry out before being fully used. The traditional flat, round tins have since become synonymous with shoe polishes.
== References ==
{{reflist|2}}
== External links ==
*[[b:Shoe polish|Wikibooks - How to make homemade shoe polish]]
*[[wikt:Shoe polish|Translations of 'Shoe Polish' in the Wiktionary]]
*[http://www.schuh-lexikon.de/en/shoe-care.html Shoe Care]
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