Swains Island 1683516 223446159 2008-07-04T03:02:40Z Ecjmartin 4919767 Editing photo caption {{distinguish|Swain's Island, Newfoundland and Labrador}} [[Image:Swains Island 1.jpg|thumb|right|255px|Swains Island]] '''Swains Island''' is an [[atoll]] in the [[Tokelau]] chain, the most northwesterly island administered by [[American Samoa]]. Culturally a part of the Tokelau Islands, politically it is an unorganized territory of the [[United States of America]]. Swains Island has also been known at various times as '''Olosenga Island''', '''Olohega Island''', '''Quiros Island''', '''Gente Hermosa Island''', and '''Jennings Island'''. [[Image:Swains island 1970.jpg|221px|thumb|right|Swains Island Map]] ==Geography and demographics== Swains Island has a total area of 1.865 km², of which 1.508 km² (151 ha) is land. The central [[lagoon]] accounts for the balance of 0.358 km². There is a small islet of 764 m² in the eastern part of the lagoon. The atoll is somewhat unusual, featuring an unbroken circle of land enclosing a freshwater lagoon cut off from the sea. Recent U.S. Coast Guard visitors to Swains described its lagoon as "brackish" and a source for the plentiful numbers of mosquitoes which plague the island. <ref>[http://www.uscg.mil/d14/units/kukui/Swains.htm KUKUI<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> In April 2007, a member of an [[amateur radio]] expedition confirmed that the lagoon water was fit only for bathing and washing, and that fresh water seemed to be in rather short supply on the island at the time. <ref>[http://n6tqs.livejournal.com/ Doug Faunt's Journal<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> According to a U.S. Interior Department description of Swains Island, drinking water on Swains is derived entirely from rainfall collected in two large mahogany tanks near the island's copra shed. <ref>http://www.doi.gov/oia/Islandpages/swainsis.htm</ref> [[Image:Swains Island 3.jpg|thumb|left|255px|Swains Island Lagoon]] [[As of 2005]], the population of Swains Island was 37, all located in the village of Talauga on the island's west side. According to the Interior Department report, Talauga prior to 2005 consisted of a grassy ''malae'' (an open space similar to an American "village green"), twenty or so ''fale'' (Tokelauan-style houses), and a large red copra shed that doubled as the town hall and water-collection system. A communications building, school, and church <!--denomination?--> rounded out Taulaga's buildings. Only the church remained standing after [[Cyclone Percy]] in 2005, though other structures have since been rebuilt. <ref>[http://the.honoluluadvertiser.com/article/2005/Apr/03/ln/ln42pbob.html A queen mother's last wishes - The Honolulu Advertiser - Hawaii's Newspaper<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> The village of Etena in the southeast, once home to the expansive "residency" of Swains' unique dynasty of "proprietors", is now abandoned. This "residency", as it was called, consisted of a rustic four-bedroom house built in the 1800s to accommodate the Jennings family, owners of the island. A visitor to Swains Island in the 1920s described the mansion as being "dilapidated, though stately", noting that parts of it were not being used even at that time. <ref>[http://www.samoanews.com/thursday.05122005/THothernews/story3.html Story<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> A road once ran around the island rim, but it seems to have been reduced in recent years to an overgrown jungle trail. <ref>http://www.uscg.mil/d14/units/kukui/Swains/jungle%20trail.JPG</ref> [[Image:Swains Island 2.jpg|thumb|right|255px|Road on Swains Island]] Swains Islanders mainly speak [[Tokelauan]], although [[English language|English]] is the principal administrative language of [[American Samoa]]. ==History== [[Pedro Fernandes de Queirós]], a [[Portugal|Portuguese]] navigator sailing for [[Spain]], is believed to have been the first European explorer to have discovered Swains Island on [[2 March]] [[1606]]. He named it ''Isla de la Gente Hermosa'', which means "island of the beautiful people" in Spanish. Later, there was an expedition from [[Fakaofo]] to the island. The male inhabitants of the island either fled or were killed by the invaders, while the women were taken back to Fakaofo. The subsequent infertility of the island is attributed to a curse placed on it by its last chief. Captain Henry Hudson of the American ship ''Peacock'' visited the atoll in 1841, but was unable to land due to stormy weather. He renamed it "Swains Island" for the whaler who had alerted him to it. In 1856, another American, '''Eli Hutchinson Jennings''' ([[14 November]] [[1814]] - [[4 December]], [[1878]]), started a community on Swains with his Samoan wife, Malia. Jennings claimed to have received title to the atoll from a British Captain Turnbull, who claimed ownership of the island. According to one account, the sale price for Swains was fifteen shillings per acre (37 shillings per hectare), and a bottle of gin. <ref>[http://the.honoluluadvertiser.com/article/2005/Apr/03/ln/ln42pbob.html A queen mother's last wishes - The Honolulu Advertiser - Hawaii's Newspaper<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> On [[13 October]] [[1856]], Swains became a semi-independent [[proprietary]] settlement of the Jennings family (although under the U.S. flag), a status it would retain for approximately seventy years. Jennings established a coconut plantation, which flourished under his son, Eli, Jr. Eli Jennings, Sr. was also instrumental in helping Peruvian "blackbird" slave ships depopulate the other three Tokelau atolls &mdash; see H.E. Maude's ''Slavers in Paradise'' (A.N.U., Canberra, 1981). In 1907, the [[Resident Commissioner]] of the British [[Gilbert and Ellice Islands]] (then a British [[protectorate]]; since 1979 the sovereign nation of [[Kiribati]]) claimed that Swains belonged to the [[United Kingdom]], demanding payment of a tax of US$85. Jennings paid, but he brought the matter before the [[U.S. State Department]], and his money was ultimately refunded. The British government furthermore conceded that Swains was an American possession. [[Image:Swains Island 4.jpg|thumb|left|255px|Swains Island Beach]] The ownership of the island came into question after Eli Jr.'s death in 1920 and that of his wife in 1921. The United States decided to give the right of administration jointly to Eli's daughter Ann and son Alexander, while making it officially part of [[American Samoa]] by annexation on [[4 March]] [[1925]]. Alexander Jennings, the son of Eli Jennings, Jr., became managing owner of the island. The population at this time was around 100. In 1953, labor troubles arose on Swains when Tokeluan-hired workers decided to claim "squatters' rights" to the atoll, by virtue of having lived on it year-round. After Alexander Jennings evicted 56 workers and their families from the island, the governor of American Samoa intervened. By executive order, the governor acknowledged Jennings' proprietary rights to Swains Island, while instituting a system of labor contracts and a local governmental structure to protect the rights of his employees. <ref>http://www.doi.gov/oia/Islandpages/swainsis.htm</ref> The islanders were also guaranteed a representative in the territorial legislature. On [[25 March]] [[1981]], [[New Zealand]], of which Tokelau is a dependency, confirmed U.S. sovereignty over Swains Island in a treaty under which the United States surrendered its territorial claims to the other islands of Tokelau. In the draft constitution that was the subject of the [[Tokelau self-determination referendum, 2006]], however, Swains Island is claimed as part of [[Tokelau]]. <ref>[http://tvnz.co.nz/view/page/411749/661086 Tokelau calls for return of island | NATIONAL | NEWS | tvnz.co.nz<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> As of March 2007, American Samoa has not yet taken an official position, but the governor of American Samoa has said he believes that his government should do everything it can to retain control of the island. <ref>[http://www.rnzi.com/pages/news.php?op=read&id=31024 American Samoa governor ready to resist Tokelau’s claim to Swains Island<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> [[Tokelau]]'s claim to Swains is generally comparable to the [[Marshall Islands]]' claim to the U.S.-administered [[Wake Island]], but the re-emergence of this somewhat dormant issue has been an unintended result of the [[United Nations]]' recent efforts to promote decolonization in Tokelau. Basically, Tokelauans have proved somewhat reluctant to push their national identity in the political realm: recent decolonization moves have mainly been driven from outside for ideological reasons. But at the same time, Tokelauans are reluctant to disown their common cultural and, thus national, identity with Swains Islanders who speak their language. In one direction or another, the way out of this impasse may depend on the extent that the United States government shows a willingness or otherwise to curb the [[United Nations]]' ideological decolonization efforts at the expense of the current territorial integrity of [[American Samoa]]. During a recent visit to Tokelau, Alexander Jennings, representative of Swains Island to the American Samoa legislature, indicated a desire for better trade links between Swains and its neighbor. <ref>[http://www.accessmylibrary.com/comsite5/bin/pdinventory.pl?pdlanding=1&referid=2930&purchase_type=ITM&item_id=0286-29843644 American Samoas Swains Island seeks trade deal with Tokelau. | PAC - Pacific Islands Broadcasting Association (March , 2007)<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> The head of government of Tokelau, Kulesa Nasau, was reported to be "interested," and further talks were anticipated. In February 2005, Cyclone Percy struck the island, causing widespread damage and virtually destroying the village of Taulaga, as well as the old Jennings estate at Etena. Fortunately, only seven people were on the island at the time. <ref>[http://www.afap.org/apcedi/2005/02/apcedi-alert-10f-8-2005-cyclone-percy.html APCEDI Asia-Pacific Disaster Alerts: APCEDI ALERT 10F #8, 2005: CYCLONE PERCY BATTERS SWAINS ISLAND; CAUSES WIDESPREAD DAMAGE TO TOKELAU<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> Coast Guard airdrops ensured that the islanders were not left without food, water and other necessities. A Coast Guard visit in March 2007 listed 12 to 15 inhabitants, and showed that the island's trees had largely survived Percy's wrath. <ref>[http://www.uscg.mil/d14/units/kukui/Swains.htm KUKUI<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> Due to its remoteness, Swains Island is considered a separate [[amateur radio]] "entity" and several visits have been made by "ham" operators. The 2007 amateur radio "[[DX-pedition|DXpedition]]", with the call sign N8S, made more than 117,000 contacts worldwide. This set a new world record for an expedition using generator power and tents for living accommodations. While three other expeditions have produced greater total numbers of contacts, they have all been headquartered in hotels and used commercial power sources. <ref>[http://www.yt1ad.info/n8s/index.html N8S Home Page<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> ==Island government== According to the Interior Department survey cited above, Swains Island is governed by the American Samoa "government representative", a village council, a ''pulenu'u'' (civic head of the village), and a ''leoleo'' (policeman). Swains' officials have the same rights, duties, and qualifications as in all of the other villages of American Samoa. Neither the proprietor of Swains Island nor any employee of his may serve as government representative. The government representative has the following duties: *to act as the Governor's representative on Swains Island *to mediate between employees and their employer *to enforce those laws of the United States and of American Samoa which apply on Swains Island *to enforce village regulations *to keep the Governor advised of the state of affairs on Swains Island, particularly on the islanders' health, education, safety, and welfare *to insure that the Swains Islanders continue to enjoy the rights, privileges and immunities accorded to them by the laws of the United States and of American Samoa *to insure that the proprietary rights of the owner are respected The government representative has the followings powers: *to make arrests *to quell breaches of the peace *to call meetings of the village council to consider special subjects *to take such actions as may be reasonably necessary to implement and render effective his duties Swains' village council consists of all men of sound mind over the age of twenty-four. According to the federal [[census]] in 1980, five men fell into this category. Swains Island sends one non-voting delegate to the [[American Samoa Fono|American Samoan territorial legislature]]. In March 2007, this office was held by Alexander Jennings. ==The Jennings dynasty== Styling themselves "leaders", or "proprietors", members of the Jennings family "ruled" Swains Island. Between 1856 and 1925, they did so virtually independent of any outside authority, but after 1925, they were subject to the jurisdiction of the U.S. territory of American Samoa. '''Jennings who "ruled" as semi-independent "proprietors":''' *13 October 1856 - 4 December 1878: Eli Hutchinson Jennings, Sr. (1814 - 1878) *4 December 1878 - 25 October 1891: Malia Jennings, his Samoan widow (d. 1891) *25 October 1891 - 24 October 1920: Eli Hutchinson Jennings, Jr., (1863-1920) son of Eli, Sr. and Malia (1863-1920) ''Referred to by [[Robert Louis Stevenson]] as "King Jennings" during a visit to the island'' *24 October 1920 - August 1921: Ann Eliza Jennings Carruthers (1897 - 1921) ''Jointly with sibling, Alexander Hutchinson Jennings; both children of Eli Jr.'' *24 October 1920: - 4 March 1925: Alexander Hutchinson Jennings '''Jennings who "ruled" under direct American jurisdiction:''' *4 March 1925 - Unknown date in 1940's: Alexander Hutchinson Jennings *Unknown Dates between 1940 - 1954: Alexander E. Jennings *1954 to Present: Local government instituted by American Samoa. However, the island is still owned by the Jennings extended family. ==References== <references /> ==External links== *[http://www.uscg.mil/d14/units/kukui/Swains.htm US Coast Guard Cutter KUKUI Website] Contains several excellent photos of the island. *[http://www.ur0mc.com/eng/photo.php ur0mc.com] Website of Roman Tkachenko, ham radio operator from Ukraine. Includes more fine photos of Swains Island. *[http://www.doi.gov/oia/Islandpages/swainsis.htm US Dept. of Interior history and description of Swains Island] Good unofficial introduction to Swains Island geography and history. *[http://www.samoanews.com/thursday.05122005/THothernews/story3.html "Memorable events on Swains"] 2005 Story from the ''Samoa News'' about a 1920s visit to Swains Island. *[http://the.honoluluadvertiser.com/article/2005/Apr/03/ln/ln42pbob.html "A queen mother's last wish"] Article in the ''Honolulu Advertiser'' about the death of Eliza Jennings Thompson, "queen mother" of Swains Island. *[http://factfinder.census.gov/servlet/DTTable?_bm=y&-show_geoid=Y&-tree_id=405&-_showChild=Y&-context=dt&-errMsg=&-all_geo_types=N&-mt_name=DEC_2000_IAAS_P001&-redoLog=false&-transpose=N&-search_map_config=|b=50|l=en|t=4001|zf=0.0|ms=sel_00dec|dw=0.9528487917191559|dh=0.6838460131961157|dt=gov.census.aff.domain.map.EnglishMapExtent|if=gif|cx=-67.48042614595042|cy=18.385966173167105|zl=6|pz=6|bo=318:317:316:314:313:323:319|bl=362:393:358:357:356:355:354|ft=350:349:335:389:388:332:331|fl=381:403:204:380:369:379:368|g=04000US72&-PANEL_ID=p_dt_geo_map&-_lang=en&-geo_id=04000US60&-geo_id=05000US60010&-geo_id=05000US60020&-geo_id=05000US60030&-geo_id=05000US60040&-geo_id=05000US60050&-CONTEXT=dt&-format=&-search_results=ALL&-ds_name=DEC_2000_IAAS American Samoa, its districts and unorganized islands, United States Census Bureau] *[http://www.reliefweb.int/rw/RWB.NSF/db900SID/VBOL-6A4K8C?OpenDocument Alert for Cyclone Percy] Gives 2005 population. *[http://www.janeresture.com/tokelau_islands/swains.htm History of Swains Island] *[http://www.worldstatesmen.org/AmSamoa.html#Swains WorldStatesmen- American Samoa] *[http://www.stuff.co.nz/4245733a11.html Tokelau looks to independence] {{Polynesia}} {{American Samoa}} {{coor title dms|11|03|20|S|171|04|40|W|region:AS_type:isle}} [[Category:Islands of American Samoa]] [[Category:Disputed islands]] [[Category:International territorial disputes of the United States]] [[ca:Illa de Swains]] [[de:Swains Island]] [[es:Isla Swains]] [[fr:Swains]] [[ja:スウェインズ島]] [[pl:Swains Island]] [[ru:Суэйнс]] [[fi:Swains Island]] [[sv:Swainsön]]