Totnes
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{{infobox UK place|
|latitude= 50.43216
|longitude= -3.68391
|country = England
|official_name= Totnes
|population= 8000 (2001 census estimate)
|shire_county = [[Devon]]
|shire_district= [[South Hams]]
|region= South West England
|os_grid_reference = SX805605
|dial_code= 01803
|post_town= TOTNES
|postcode_area= TQ
|postcode_district= TQ9
|constituency_westminster= [[Totnes (UK Parliament constituency)|Totnes]]
|static_image=[[Image:Totnes High Street.jpg|240px]]
|static_image_caption=<small>The Eastgate over the High Street in 1983</small>
}}
'''Totnes''' ({{pronEng|ˈtɒtnɨs}} or {{IPA|/tɒtˈnɛs/}}) is a market town at the head of the estuary of the [[River Dart]] in [[Devon]], [[England]] within the South Devon [[Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty]]. It is about {{convert|22|mi}} south of the city of [[Exeter]] and is the administrative centre of the [[South Hams]] District Council.
Totnes has a long recorded history, dating back to 907AD when its first castle was built; it was already an important market town by the 12th century. Indications of its former wealth and importance are given by the number of merchants' houses built in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Today, the town, with its population of some 8,000, is a thriving centre for music, art, theatre and natural health. It has a sizeable alternative and "[[New Age]]" community, and is known as a place where one can live a [[Bohemianism|bohemian]] lifestyle.
==History==
According to the ''[[Historia Regum Britanniae]]'' written by [[Geoffrey of Monmouth]] in around 1136, "the coast of Totness" was where [[Brutus of Troy]], the mythical founder of Britain, first came ashore on the island.<ref>{{cite journal
| author=Theo Brown
| title=The Trojans in Devon
| journal=Report & Transactions of the Devonshire Association
| year=1955
| volume=87
| pages=63
}}</ref> Set into the pavement of Fore Street is the 'Brutus Stone', a small granite boulder onto which, according to local legend, Brutus first stepped from his ship. As he did so, he was supposed to have declaimed:<ref name="TTID2">{{cite journal
| author=Theo Brown
| title=The Trojans in Devon
| journal=Report & Transactions of the Devonshire Association
| year=1955
| volume=87
| pages=68-69
}}</ref><blockquote>Here I am and here I rest. And this town shall be called Totnes.</blockquote> The stone is far above the highest tides and the tradition is not likely to be of great antiquity, being first mentioned in [[John Prince (Totnes)|John Prince's]] ''Worthies of Devon'' in 1697.<ref name="TTID2"/> It is possible that the stone was originally the one from which the [[town crier]], or ''bruiter'' called his ''bruit'' or news; or it may be ''le Brodestone'', a boundary stone mentioned in several 15th century disputes: its last-known position in 1471 was below the East Gate.<ref name="TTID2"/>
Despite this legendary history, the first authenticated history of Totnes is in AD 907, when it was fortified by King [[Edward the Elder]] as part of the defensive ring of [[burh]]s built around Devon, replacing one built a few years earlier at nearby Halwell.<ref name="HTDS"/> The site was chosen because it was on an ancient trackway which forded the river at low tide.<ref name="HTDS"/> Between the reigns of [[Edgar the Peaceful|Edgar]] and [[William II of England|William II]] (959–1100) Totnes intermittently [[mint (coin)|minted]] coins.<ref name="hosk">{{cite book
| title=A New Survey of England: Devon
| author = W. G. Hoskins
| date=1954
| pages=504-508
| publisher=Collins
| location=London
}}</ref>
[[Image:BrutusStoneTotnes.JPG|thumb|left|upright|The Brutus Stone in Fore Street]]
The name ''Totnes'' (first recorded in 979AD) comes from the [[Old English]] personal name ''Totta'' and ''ness'' or headland.<ref>{{cite book
|title=The Concise Oxford Dictionary of English Place-names
|author=Eilert Ekwall
|publisher=OUP
|location=Oxford [Eng.]
|year=1981
|pages=478
|isbn=0 19 869103 3
}}</ref> Before reclamation and development, the low-lying areas around this hill were largely marsh or tidal wetland, giving the hill much more the appearance of a "ness" than today.
By the 12th century Totnes was already an important market town, due to its position on one of the main roads of the South West, in conjunction with its easy access to its [[hinterland]] and the easy navigation of the River Dart.<ref>{{Cite book
| last = Kowaleski
| first = Maryanne
| title = The New Maritime History of Devon Volume 1. From early times to the late eighteenth century
| chapter = The Port Towns of Fourteenth-Century Devon
| editor = Michael Duffy et al.
| publisher = Conway Maritime Press
| location = London
| date = 1992
| pages = 63
| isbn = 0-85177-611-6
}}</ref>
By 1523, according to a tax assessment, Totnes was the second richest town in Devon, and the sixteenth richest in England, ahead of Worcester, Gloucester and Lincoln.<ref name="HTDS">{{Cite book
| last = Stansbury
| first = Don
| title = The Heart of Totnes
| chapter = 907-1523: The King's Town
| editor = Maureen Bridge
| publisher = AQ & DJ Publications
| location = Tavistock
| date = 1998
| pages = 123-131
| isbn = 0-904066-36-3
}}</ref>
<!-- more history needed, ~1400-1900 -->
==Governance==
Totnes' [[History of borough status in England and Wales|borough charter]] was granted by [[John of England|King John]], probably around 1206; at any rate, the 800th anniversary of the charter was celebrated in 2006. Totnes lost its borough status in local government reorganisation in 1974. Totnes was served by Totnes electoral borough from 1295 until the reform act of 1867, but was restored by the 1884 Franchise Act. The constituency of Totnes was abolished a second time in 1983, and formed part of the [[South Hams]] constituency until 1997, when it was restored as the [[Totnes (UK Parliament constituency)|Totnes county constituency]]: as such it returns one [[Member of Parliament|MP]] to Parliament.
Totnes has a mayor who is elected by the sixteen town councillors each year.<ref>{{cite web
| title = Welcome to Totnes Town Council
| publisher = Totnes Town Council
| url = http://www.visionwebsites.co.uk/Contents/Text/Index.asp?SiteId=68&SiteExtra=2970447&TopNavId=798&NavSideId=4089
| accessdate = 2008-07-02
}}</ref> Follaton House, on the outskirts of the town, is the headquarters of the [[South Hams]] District Council.<ref>{{cite web
| title = Follaton House, its History and Architecture
| publisher = South Hams District Council
| date = 2005
| url = http://www.southhams.gov.uk/index/council_index/sp-about-south-hams/sp-council-follaton_house.htm
| accessdate = 2008-07-02
}}</ref> The town is twinned with the French town of [[Vire]], after which Vire Island on the River Dart near the 'Plains' is named.
[[Image:The River Dart at Totnes.jpg|thumb|right|The River Dart at Totnes]]
==Geography==
<!-- this section needs expansion -->
The town is built on a hill rising from the west bank of the [[River Dart]], which separates Totnes from the suburb of [[Bridgetown, Devon|Bridgetown]]. It is at the lowest bridging point of the river which here is tidal and forms a winding estuary down to the sea at [[Dartmouth, Devon|Dartmouth]]. The river continues to be tidal for about {{convert|1|mi}} above the town, until it meets Totnes [[Weir]], built in the 17th century. There are two bridges over the river in the town, Totnes Bridge built in 1826-28 by Charles Fowler and, some {{convert|1000|ft}} upstream, Brutus Bridge,<ref name="CP"/> constructed in 1982 as part of a traffic-relief scheme.<ref name="devrds">{{Cite book
| publisher = Devon Books
| isbn = 0-86114-817-7
| last = Hawkins
| first = Michael
| title = Devon Roads: An illustrated survey of the development and management of Devon's highway network
| location = Exeter
| date = 1988
| pages = 52
}}</ref>
==Economy==
<!-- this section needs expanding and tidying -->
Totnes has a sizeable alternative community,<ref>{{cite web
| last = Siegle
| first = Lucy
| title = Shiny hippy people
| work =
| publisher = [[The Guardian]]
| date = [[2005-05-08]]
| url = http://lifeandhealth.guardian.co.uk/experts/story/0,,1623868,00.html
| accessdate = 2008-07-02
}}</ref> and the town is known as a place where one can live a [[Bohemianism|bohemian]] lifestyle.{{Fact|date=July 2008}} There are a number of facilities for artists, painters and musicians, and there is a twice-weekly market offering antiques, musical instruments, second-hand books, handmade clothing from across the world, and local organically produced products.
Emphasising the town's continuing history of boatbuilding, between 1998 and 2001 [[Pete Goss]] built his revolutionary but ill-fated 120-foot [[Team Philips]] catamaran here.
In March 2007 Totnes was the first town in the UK to introduce its own local alternative currency, the [[Totnes pound]], to support the local economy of the town.<ref>{{cite web
| last = Sharp
| first = Rob
| title = They don't just shop local in Totnes - they have their very own currency
| publisher = [[The Independent]]
| date = 1 May 2008
| url = http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/they-dont-just-shop-local-in-totnes--they-have-their-very-own-currency-818586.html
| accessdate = 2008-07-02
}}</ref> It is accepted by several small businesses within the town, but it is seen as a gimmick by many and not widely used.{{Fact|date=July 2008}} The initiative is part of the [[Transition Towns]] concept, which was pioneered by Rob Hopkins, who had recently moved to Totnes.<ref>"Take note - Totnes will be quids in!" in ''Totnes Times'' 7 March 2007, p.6</ref>
==Landmarks==
[[Image:St Marys Church Totnes.jpg|thumb|right|St Mary's Church]]
The [[Norman architecture|Norman]] [[motte and bailey]] [[Totnes Castle]], now owned by [[English Heritage]], was built during the reign of [[William I of England|William I]], probably by [[Juhel of Totnes]].<ref name="CP">{{cite book
|title=The Buildings of England — Devon
|author=Bridget Cherry & Nikolaus Pevsner
|publisher=Penguin
|location=Harmondsworth
|pages=866-875
|year=1989
|isbn=0 14 071050 7}}</ref> The late medieval church of St Mary with its {{convert|120|ft}} high west tower, visible from afar, is built of rich red Devonian sandstone.<ref name="CP"/> A prominent feature of the town is the Eastgate — an arch spanning the middle of the main street. This [[Elizabethan]] entrance to the walled town was destroyed in a fire in September 1990, but was rebuilt.
[[Image:Butterwalk.jpg|thumb|left|The Butterwalk]]
The ancient [[Leechwell]], so named because of the supposed medicinal properties of its water, and apparently where lepers once came to wash, still provides fresh water. The Butterwalk is a [[Tudor style architecture|Tudor]] covered walkway that was built to protect the dairy products once sold here from the sun and rain.<ref>{{cite web
| title = Totnes Town Trail
| publisher = South Devon Area Of Outstanding Natural Beauty
| url = http://www.southdevonaonb.org.uk/sitedetails.asp?PageId=32&SiteId=854
| accessdate = 2008-07-02
}}</ref> The town museum is in one of the many authentic Elizabethan Merchant's houses in the town, built around 1575.<ref>{{cite web
| title = Totnes Elizabethan House Museum
| publisher = Devon Museums Group
| url = http://www.devonmuseums.net/component/option,com_mumancontent/task,view/sectionid,23/
| accessdate = 2008-07-02
}}</ref>
==Transport==
The [[A38 road|A38]] passes about {{convert|7|mi}} to the west of Totnes, connected to the town by the A384 from [[Buckfastleigh]] and the A385 which continues to [[Paignton]]. The town also lies on the A381 between [[Newton Abbot]] and [[Salcombe]]. [[Totnes railway station]] is situated on the [[London to Penzance Line]], and has trains direct to [[London]] and [[Plymouth]]. Nearby, [[Totnes (Littlehempston) railway station]] is at the southern end of the [[South Devon Railway Trust]] which runs tourist [[steam locomotive]]s along the line that follows the [[River Dart]] up to [[Buckfastleigh railway station|Buckfastleigh]]. Since the River Dart is navigable to seagoing boats as far as Totnes, the estuary was used for the import and export of goods from the town until 1995,{{Fact|date=July 2008}} and there are still regular pleasure boat trips down the estuary to [[Dartmouth, Devon|Dartmouth]].
==Education==
[[King Edward VI Community College]] is the local [[secondary school]] which shares its name with the former grammar school set up by King Edward VI over 450 years ago. At the western edge of the town is the [[Dartington Hall]] Estate, which includes the [[Schumacher College]] and [[Dartington College of Arts]].
==Notable people==
Notable people from Totnes include:
* The explorer [[William John Wills]] of the [[Burke and Wills expedition]] fame was born in Totnes. A memorial to Wills was erected using money from public subscriptions in 1864. It can still be seen on the Plains. There were originally two gas lamps attached to the monument, but both have since been removed.
* [[Charles Babbage]] had a strong family connection with the town and returned to attend the grammar school for a period before going up to Cambridge.
* Admiral Sir Frederick Michell KCB (1788-1873) died in Totnes.
* Hebrew scholar, [[Benjamin Kennicott]] was also born in Totnes.
* William [[Stumbles (surname)|Stumbels]], a clockmaker lived and worked in Totnes in the 18th century. (His workshop was possibly at No. 4 Castle Street, within the town walls.) Two of his clocks: a [[Longcase clock|longcase]] (grandfather) and a turret clock are displayed in the museum.<ref>J. K. Bellchambers: Devonshire Clockmakers, The Devonshire Press Limited, Torquay; 1962</ref>
* [[John Prince (Totnes)|John Prince]] was vicar of Totnes in the late 17th Century, was author of ''The Worthies of Devon'', a major biographical work. He was also involved in a scandal, the court records of which were made into a book and stage play in the early 2000s.
* Pop music prankster [[Jimmy Cauty]] (one half of [[The KLF]]) was born in Totnes.<ref>Peter Frame, "Rockin' Around Britain"; Omnibus 1999, p29</ref>
* Novelist [[Mary Wesley]], author of ''[[The Camomile Lawn]]'', spent her final years in Totnes.
* Humorous poet [[Matt Harvey (poet)|Matt Harvey]] is a resident.
* [[William Brockedon]], Artist and inventor, 1787-1854. Son of Philip Brockedon, Clockmaker.
* [[Joseph Mount]], a musician who records under the name [[Metronomy]], lived in Totnes for a while.
* The novelist [[Desmond Bagley]] lived in Totnes from 1964 to 1976.
* Historian [[James Anthony Froude]], author of ''''History of England From the fall of cardinal Wolsey to the Defeat of the Spanish Armada'', was born in Totnes. His brother [[Richard Hurrell Froude]] was a theologian; he originated the Tractarian or Oxford Movement which created the [[High Church]].
* Botanist [[Francis George Heath]] was born in Totnes.
* [[Margaret Isherwood]], writer on religion and education, lived in Totnes. She wrote several books including ''Searching for Meaning'' and ''The Root of the Matter''.
* Linguist [[Edward Lye]], who wrote the first dictionary of [[Old English language|Anglo-Saxon]], was born in Totnes.
* Playwright [[Sean O'Casey]] lived in the town from 1938 to 1964.
* Critic, author and playwright [[Allen Saddler]] lives in Totnes.
* [[Vian Smith]] was born in Totnes, lived in the area for most of his life (excepting war service), and wrote extensively on Dartmoor.
* [[Rik Mayall]] previously lived in Totnes. <ref>[http://knowhere.co.uk/4281_heroes.html Knowhere: Totnes, Devon, Local Heroes, Famous Residents<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref>
==References==
{{reflist|2}}
==External links==
{{Commons cat|Totnes}}
<!-- Please bear in mind that Wikipedia is an encyclopedia and not a directory. It may be that one or two links will add something to a page however they must only be placed on the relevant page and will always be subject to review by wikipedians.-->
*[http://www.devon-online.com/towns/totnes/totnes.html Totnes Tourist Information]
*[http://arts.guardian.co.uk/news/story/0,,1979229,00.html Battle to save celebrated cradle of cutting edge art (The Guardian)]
{{Devon}}
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