Western New Guinea
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{{redirect|West Papua|the Indonesian province with the same name|West Papua (province)}}
{{Geobox Region
<!-- *** Name section *** -->
| name = Western New Guinea
| native_name =
| other_name = West Papua
| category = Region
<!-- *** Image *** -->
| image =
| image_size =
| image_caption =
<!-- *** Country etc. *** -->
| country = Indonesia
<!-- *** Parts *** -->
| part_type = Provinces
| part_count = 2
| part = [[Papua (Indonesian province)|Papua]]
| part1 = [[West Papua (province)|West Papua]]
| city = Jayapura
| city1 = Manokwari
| city2 = [[Sorong (city)|Sorong]]
| city3 = Timika
<!-- *** Geography *** -->
| area = 420540
| highest = Puncak Jaya
| highest_location = Sudirman Range
| highest_lat_d = 4
| highest_lat_m = 5
| highest_lat_NS = S
| highest_long_d = 137
| highest_long_m = 11
| highest_long_EW = E
| highest_elevation = 4884
| lowest =
| lowest_location =
| lowest_lat_d =
| lowest_lat_m =
| lowest_lat_s =
| lowest_lat_NS =
| lowest_long_d =
| lowest_long_m =
| lowest_long_s =
| lowest_long_EW =
| lowest_elevation =
<!-- *** Population *** -->
| population_as_of = 2005
| population = 2646489
| population_density = auto
<!-- *** Various codes *** -->
| timezone = [[Time in Indonesia|WIT]]
| utc_offset = +9
| code_type = [[ISO 3166-2:ID|ISO 3166-2]]
| code = ID-IJ
| code1_type = License plate
| code1 = DS
<!-- *** Map section *** -->
| map = LocationWestPapua.svg
| map_size =
| map_caption =
<!-- *** Website *** -->
| website =
<!-- *** Footnotes *** -->
| footnotes =
}}
'''Western New Guinea''' is the western half of the island of [[New Guinea]]. It is the easternmost part of [[Indonesia]], consisting of two provinces: [[Papua (Indonesian province)|Papua]] and [[West Papua (province)|West Papua]]. It was previously known by various names, including [[Netherlands New Guinea]] (1895–[[1 October]] [[1962]]), [[West New Guinea]] ([[1 October]] [[1962]]–[[1 May]] [[1963]]), West Irian ([[1 May]] [[1963]]–1973), and Irian Jaya (1973–2000). The incorporation of western New Guinea into Indonesia remains controversial with human rights [[non-governmental organization]]s (NGO), including some supporters in the [[United States Congress]] and other bodies, as well as many of the territory's indigenous population. Many indigenous inhabitants and human rights NGOs refer to it as '''West Papua'''.
During the 1950s the Dutch government began to prepare Netherlands New Guinea for full independence and allowed elections in 1959; an elected Papuan council, the New Guinea Council (Nieuw Guinea Raad) took office on April 5, 1961. The Council decided on the name of West Papua, a national emblem, a flag called the Morning Star or Bintang Kejora, and a national anthem; the flag was first raised — next to the Dutch flag — on December 1, 1961. However, Indonesia threatened with an invasion, after full mobilisation of its army, by August 15, 1962, after receiving military help from the Soviet Union. Under strong pressure of the United States government (under the Kennedy administration) the Dutch, who were prepared to resist an Indonesian attack, attended diplomatic talks. On October 1, 1962, the Dutch handed over the territory to a temporary UN administration (UNTEA). On May 1, 1963, Indonesia took control. The territory was renamed West Irian and then Irian Jaya.
Western New Guinea was [[annexation|annexed]] by [[Indonesia]] under the [[1969]] [[Act of Free Choice]] in accord with the controversial [[1962]] [[New York Agreement]]. During the rule of President [[Suharto]] from 1965 to 1998, human rights and other advocates criticized Indonesian government policies in the province as repressive, and the area received relatively little attention in Indonesia's development plans. During the [[Reformation (Indonesia)|Reformasi]] period from 1998 to 2001, Papua and other Indonesian provinces received greater [[regional autonomy]]. In 2001, a law was passed granting "Special Autonomy" status to Papua, although many of the law's requirements have either not been implemented or have been only minimally implemented.<ref>[http://stinet.dtic.mil/oai/oai?&verb=getRecord&metadataPrefix=html&identifier=ADA462594 US Dept of Defence]; [http://www.crisisgroup.org/home/index.cfm?id=1764&l=1 International Crisis Group]; [http://www.crisisgroup.org/home/index.cfm?id=4364&l=1 International Crisis Group]</ref>
In 2003, the Indonesian central government declared that the province would be split into three provinces: [[Papua (Indonesian province)|Papua]] Province, Central Irian Jaya Province, and [[West Irian Jaya]] Province. Opposition to this resulted in the plan for Central Irian Jaya province being scrapped, and even the designation of West Irian Jaya Province is still legally unclear. Despite this, the West Irian Jaya (Irian Jaya Barat) province was formed on [[February 6]], [[2006]] and the name was officially changed to West Papua (Papua Barat) on [[February 7]], [[2007]]. The independent [[Sovereignty|sovereign]] [[state]] of [[Papua New Guinea]] (PNG) borders Papua Province to the east.
== History ==
{{History of Indonesia}}
[[Papuans]] have inhabited the Australasian continental [[island]] of [[Papua]] for over 40,000 years while [[Austronesian people|Austronesians]] have been there for several thousand years. These groups have developed diverse cultures and languages in situ; there are over 300 languages and two hundred additional dialects in West New Guinea alone (''See [[Papuan languages]], [[Austronesian languages]]'').
On [[June 13]], [[1545]] [[Ortiz de Retez]], in command of the San Juan, left port in [[Tidore]], an island of the East Indies and sailed to reach the northern coast of the island of New Guinea, which he ventured along as far as the mouth of the [[Mamberamo River]]. He took possession of the land for the Spanish Crown, in the process giving the island the name by which it is known today. He called it Nueva Guinea owing to the resemblance of the local inhabitants to the peoples of the [[Guinea]] coast in West Africa.
=== Dutch control ===
[[Image:NetherlandsNewGuinea-1916.jpg|thumb|left|Dutch expeditions in Netherlands New Guinea 1907–1915.]]
In [[1828]], the [[the Netherlands|Dutch]] claimed the south coast west of the 141st meridian<!--anachronism, isn't it; they weren't likely using Greenwich meridian-->, and in [[1848]] added the north coast west of Humboldt Bay.
The border at 141° East was 'marked' on the coast by iron signpost displaying the Dutch coat of arms by an expedition in [[1881]]<ref>[http://www.xs4all.nl/~gjvo/papoea/ J. van Oldenborgh, Report of a Voyage with H. M. steamship Batavia from Ternate to the South Coast of New-Guinea to 141° E, 1881.]</ref>.
The Netherlands established trading posts in the area after [[United Kingdom|Britain]] and [[Germany]] recognised the Dutch claims in treaties of [[1885]] and [[1895]]. At much the same time, Britain claimed south-east [[New Guinea]] later known as the ''[[Territory of Papua]]'' and Germany claimed the northeast, later known as the ''[[German New Guinea|Territory of New Guinea]]''.
In [[1923]], the ''Nieuw Guinea Beweging'' ([[New Guinea Movement]]) was created in the Netherlands by ultra right-wing supporters calling for Dutchmen to create a tropical Netherlands in Papua. This prewar movement without full government support was largely unsuccessful in its drive, but did coincide with the development of a plan for Eurasian settlement of the Dutch Indies to establish Dutch farms in northern West New Guinea. This effort also failed as most returned to Java disillusioned, and by [[1938]] just 50 settlers remained near Hollandia and 258 in [[Manokwari]].
In the early [[1930s]], the need for a national Papuan government was discussed by graduates of the Dutch Protestant Missionary Teachers College in Mei Wondama, Manokwari. These graduates continued their discussions among the wider community and quickly succeeded in cultivating a desire for national unity across the region and its three hundred languages. The College Principal Rev. Kijne also composed "''[[Hai Tanahku Papua]]''" ("''Oh My Land Papua''"), which in [[1961]] was adopted as the national anthem.
A exploration company NNGPM was formed in [[1935]] by [[Royal Dutch Shell|Shell]] (40%), [[Mobil]] (40%) and [[Chevron Corporation|Chevron's]] Far Pacific investments (20%) to explore West New Guinea. During [[1936]], Jean Dozy working for NNGPM reported the world's richest [[gold]] and [[copper]] deposits in a mountain near [[Timika]] which he named [[Ertsberg]] (''Mountain of Ore''). Unable to license the find from the Dutch or indigenous landowners, NNGPM maintained secrecy of the discovery.
In [[1942]], the northern coast of West New Guinea and the nearby islands were occupied by [[Japan]]. [[Allied]] forces expelled the Japanese in [[1944]], and with Papuan approval, the [[United States]] constructed a headquarters for Gen. [[Douglas MacArthur]] at [[Hollandia]] (now [[Jayapura]]) and over twenty US bases and hospitals intended as a [[staging area|staging point]] for operations taking of the Philippines.
West New Guinean farms supplied food for the half million US troops. Papuan men went into battle to carry the wounded, acted as guides and translators, and provided a range of services, from construction work and carpentry to serving as machine shop workers and mechanics.
The Dutch retained possession of West New Guinea from 1945, but upon reaching [[Java (island)|Java]] {{convert|4000|km|mi|-1|abbr=on}} west they did not find similar levels of support from the population of Java. [[Indonesia]]n leaders [[Mohammad Hatta]] and [[Sukarno]] had declared [[Indonesian National Revolution|independence]] weeks before and claimed all Dutch possessions should become part of the [[United States of Indonesia]]. The dispute continued until the [[Dutch-Indonesian Round Table Conference|Round Table Conference]], which was held from August to October [[1949]] at the [[Hague]]. Unable to reach a compromise on the matter of West New Guinea, the conference closed with the parties agreeing to discuss the West New Guinea issue within one year.
In December [[1950]]<ref>[http://www.un.org/documents/ga/res/5/ares5.htm United Nations General Assembly Resolution 448(V)]</ref> the United Nations requested the Special Committee on Decolonization to accept transmission of information regarding the territory in accord with [[Charter of the United Nations|Article 73 of the Charter]] of the [[United Nations]]. Article 73 constituted formal recognition of the territory's [[right]] to [[independence]] and the Netherlands obligation to assist. After repeated [[Indonesia]]n claims to possession of [[Dutch New Guinea]], the Netherlands invited Indonesia to present its claim before an [[International Court of Justice|International Court]] of Law. Indonesia declined the offer. Concerned by Indonesian insurgencies beginning in 1950, the Netherlands accelerated its education and technical programs in preparation for independence. A [[naval academy]] was opened in [[1956]], and Papuan troops and naval cadets began service by [[1957]].
By 1959, Papuans were [[nurse]]s, [[dental surgeon]]s, [[technical drawing|draftsmen]], [[architect]]s, telephone repairmen, and radio and power technicians, cultivating a range of experimental commercial crops and serving as [[police]], [[forestry]] and [[Meteorology|meteorological staff]]. This progress towards self-government was documented in reports prepared for the United Nations from 1950 to 1961.
Local Council elections were held and Papuan representatives elected from 1955. On [[6 March]] [[1959]] the [[New York Times]] published an article revealing the Dutch government had discovered alluvial gold flowing into the [[Arafura Sea]] and were searching for the gold's mountain source.{{Fact|date=March 2007}} In 1959, [[Freeport-McMoRan|Freeport Sulphur]] approached the Dutch East Borneo company for partnership. An agreement signed in January [[1960]] to lodge a Dutch claim for the Timika area as a copper deposit did not inform the government about the gold or known extent of the copper deposit.{{Fact|date=March 2007}}
Election of a national parliament began on [[9 January]] [[1961]] in fifteen electoral districts with direct voting in Manokwari and Hollandia to select 26 Councillors, of whom 16 were elected, 12 appointed, 23 were Papuan, and one female Councillors. The Councillors were sworn in by Governor Platteel on [[1 April]] [[1961]], and the Council took office on [[5 April]] [[1961]]. The inauguration was attended by officials from Australia, Britain, France, the Netherlands, New Zealand, and members of the South Pacific Commission; a large Australian delegation was headed by Mr Hasluck MP and included Sir Alistair McMullan, President of Australian Senate. The United States declined the invitation to attend the inauguration.
After news that the Hague was considering a United States plan to trade the territory to United Nations administration, Papuan Councillors met for six hours in the New Guinea Council building on [[19 October]] [[1961]] to elect a National Committee which drafted a Manifesto for Independence & Self-government, a National flag (Morning Star), State Seal, selected a national anthem ("Hai Tanahkoe Papua" / "''Oh My Land Papua''"), and called for the people to be known as Papuans. The New Guinea Council voted unanimous support of these proposals on [[30 October]] [[1961]], and on the 31st October 1961 presented the Morning Star flag and Manifesto to Governor Platteel who said (translated) "Never before has the oneness of the Council been put forward so strongly." The Dutch recognized the flag and anthem on [[November 18]], [[1961]] (Government Gazettes of Dutch New Guinea Nos. 68 and 69), and these ordinances came into effect on [[December 1]], [[1961]].
===Indonesian control and resistance===
At the [[United States|US]] [[White House]] a proposal to have the Netherlands trade West New Guinea to [[Indonesia]] was opposed by the Bureau of European Affairs who viewed this "would simply trade white for brown colonialism"; but from April 1961 Robert Komer and McGeorge Bundy promoted a plan to have the United Nations give the transfer an outward appearance of legitimacy. Though reluctant, John Kennedy was told the transfer of the territory was the only means to prevent Indonesia turning to Soviet aid.<ref name= "UIC">[http://dosfan.lib.uic.edu/ERC/frus/summaries/950306_FRUS_XXIII_1961-63.html US Foreign Relations, 1961–63, Vol XXIII, Southeast Asia].</ref>
[[Image:Flag of West Papua.svg|thumb|The ''Morning Star'', [[flag of West Papua]], which represents the political separatist movement. Its display is currently prohibited in Indonesia.]]
The ''Morning Star'' flag was raised next to the Dutch tricolour on [[December 1]], [[1961]], an act which Papuan independence supporters celebrate each year at flag raising ceremonies. National Committee Chairman Mr Inury said: ''"My Dear compatriots, you are looking at the symbol of our unity and our desire to take our place among the nations of the world. As long as we are not really united we shall not be free. To be united means to work hard for the good of our country, now, until the day that we shall be independent, and further from that day on."''
On [[January 2]], [[1962]] Indonesia which had made seven known insurgency attempts since [[1950]] now created the Mandala Command headed by [[Suharto|Brig. General Suharto]] to coordinate military efforts for the territory. Two previous insurgencies, Pasukan Gerilya 100 (November 1960) and Pasukan Gerilya 200 (September 1961), were followed by Pasukan Gerilya 300 with 115 insurgents leaving Jakarta on four Jaguar class torpedo boats ([[January 15]]), intercepted in the Aru Sea the lead boat was sunk and 51 survivors were picked up after Commodore Yos Sudarso went down with his boat.<ref>Conboy, Ken. 2003. ''Kopassus.'' Equinox Publishing, Jakarta Indonesia. ISBN 979-95898-8-6</ref>
Continuing US efforts to have the Netherlands secretly negotiate the transfer of the territory to Indonesian administration eventually succeeded in creating the "[[New York Agreement]]" signed in August 1962. The [[Australia]]n government, which previously had been a firm supporter of the Papuan independence, also reversed its policy to support incorporation with Indonesia.<ref name = "UIC">[http://dosfan.lib.uic.edu/ERC/frus/summaries/950306_FRUS_XXIII_1961-63.html US Foreign Relations, 1961–63, Vol XXIII, Southeast Asia].</ref><ref name = "Halcyon">[ftp://ftp.halcyon.com/pub/FWDP/Oceania/jfkpapua.txt US President letter].</ref>
The agreement, ratified in the UN on [[September 21]], [[1962]], stipulated that authority would transfer to a [[United Nations Temporary Executive Authority]] (UNTEA) on [[1 October]] [[1963]], and that once UNTEA had informed the public of the terms of the Agreement had the option to transfer administration of the territory to Indonesia after [[May 1]], [[1963]], until such time as an "Act of Free Choice" could determine the will of the people. Under Article 18 of the Agreement "all adults, male and female, not foreign nationals" were to be allowed to vote in an Act "in accordance with international practice". On [[May 1]], [[1963]] UNTEA transferred total administration of West New Guinea to the Republic of Indonesia. The capital Hollandia was renamed Kota Baru for the transfer to Indonesian administration and on [[5 September]] [[1963]] West Irian was declared a "quarantine territory" with Foreign Minister Subandrio administrating visitor permits.
[[Image:Irian Barat Statue.JPG|thumb|left|A [[Sukarno]]-era statue in [[Jakarta]] celebrating Indonesia's "liberation" of Irian.]]
Since the 1960s, consistent reports have filtered out of the territory of government [[suppression]] and [[terrorism]], including [[murder]], political [[assassination]], [[imprisonment]], [[torture]], and aerial bombardments. The Indonesian government disbanded the New Guinea Council and forbade the use of the West Papua flag or the singing of the national anthem. There has been considerable resistance to Indonesian integration and occupation, both through civil disobedience (such as Morning Star flag raising ceremonies) and via the formation of the [[Organisasi Papua Merdeka]] (OPM, or Free Papua Movement) in 1965. The movement's military arm is the TPN, or [[Liberation Army of Free Papua]]. [[Amnesty International]] has estimated more than 100,000 [[Papuan languages|Papuans]], one-sixth of the population, have died as a result of government-sponsored violence against West Papuans,<ref>[http://www.usyd.edu.au/news/84.html?newsstoryid=651 Report claims secret genocide in Indonesia - University of Sydney]</ref> while others had previously specified much higher death tolls.<ref>[http://www.news.vu/en/news/RegionalNews/050728-West-Papua-Support.shtml West Papua Support]</ref>
After General Suharto replaced Sukarno as President of Indonesia, [[Freeport-McMoRan|Freeport Sulphur]] was the first foreign company awarded a mining license, a 30 year license to mine the [[Tembagapura]] region of Papua for gold and copper.
In [[1969]], General Sarwo Edhi Wibowo oversaw the Indonesian conduct of the widely criticized "[[Act of Free Choice]]." Prior to the vote, the Indonesian military rounded up and detained for one month a large group of Papuan tribal leaders. The Papuans were daily threatened with death at gunpoint if the entire group did not vote to continue Indonesian rule. Assembled troops and two Western observers acted as witnesses to the public vote; however, the Western observers left after witnessing the first two hundred (of 1,054) votes for integration. Concerned over Communism in South East Asia, and with an eye toward extracting Papua's vast mineral wealth, the US and other Western powers ignored protests over the circumstances surrounding the vote <ref>Saltford, John. 2003. ''The United Nations and the Indonesian Takeover 1962-1969: The Anatomy of Betrayal.'' NY: Routledge.</ref> The process was deemed to have been an "Act of Free Choice" in accordance with the United Nations requirements, and Indonesia formally annexed the territory in August. Dissenters mockingly called it the "Act of No Choice" or "Act Free of Choice."
In [[1971]], construction of the world's largest copper and [[gold mine]] (also the world's largest open cut mine) began. Under an Indonesian agreement signed in 1967 (two years before the "Act of Free Choice"), the US company [[Freeport-McMoRan|Freeport-McMoRan Copper & Gold Inc.]] obtained a 30-year exclusive mining license from Suharto in (dating from the mine's opening in 1973). The pact was extended in 1991 by another 30 years. After 1988 with the opening of the [[Grasberg mine]] it became the biggest gold mine and lowest extraction-price copper mine in the world. Locals made several violent attempts to dissuade the mine owners, including sabotage of a pipeline that July, but order was quickly restored.
In the [[1970s]] and [[1980s]], the Indonesian state accelerated its [[transmigration program]], under which tens of thousands of [[Javanese people|Javanese]] and [[Sumatra]]n migrants were resettled to Papua. Prior to Indonesian rule, the non-indigenous Asian population was estimated at 16,600; while the Papuan population were a mix of [[Catholicism|Roman Catholics]], [[Protestantism|Protestants]] and pagan people following tribal religions<ref>[http://www.papuaweb.org/dlib/nngg/1961-apx.PDF Report on Netherlands New Guinea for the Year 1961, Appendix]</ref>. Critics suspect that the transmigration program's purpose was to tip the balance of the province's population from the heavily Melanesian Papuans toward western Indonesians, thus further consolidating Indonesian control. The transmigration program officially ended in the late 1990s, although so-called "spontaneous migration" by western Indonesians voluntarily relocating to provinces such as Papua seeking economic opportunity has increased and remains at high levels.{{Fact|date=November 2007}}
A separatist congress in [[2000]] again calling for independence resulted in a military crackdown on independence supporters. In [[2001]], a now-majority Islamic population was given limited autonomy. An August 2001, US [[State Department]] travel warning advised "all travel by US and other foreign government officials to [[Aceh]], Papua and the [[Moluccas]] (provinces of [[North Maluku]] and [[Maluku]]) has been restricted by the Indonesian government".
During the [[Abdurrahman Wahid]] administration in 2000, Papua gained a "Special Autonomy" status, an attempted political compromise between separatists and the central government that has weak support within the Jakarta government. Despite lack of political will of politicians in [[Jakarta]] to proceed with real implementation of the Special Autonomy, which is stipulated by law, the region was divided into two provinces: the province of [[Papua (Indonesian province)|Papua]] and the province of [[West Papua (province)|West Papua]], based on a Presidential Instruction in January 2001, soon after President Wahid was impeached by the Parliament and replaced by Vice President [[Megawati Sukarnoputri]]. The division of the province has neither directly cancelled the Law of Special Autonomy of Papua nor engaged ongoing protest in the region. There was brief consideration of dividing the territory into thirds, but the plan was quickly abandoned. The plan again gained support in early 2008.
In January 2006, 43 [[refugee]]s in a traditional canoe landed on the coast of Australia with a banner stating the Indonesian military was carrying out a genocide in Papua. They were transported to an Australian immigration detention facility on [[Christmas Island]], 2,600 km (1,400 nmi) north-west of Perth, and 360 km (190 nmi) south of the western head of Java. On [[March 23]], [[2006]], the Australian government granted temporary protection visas to 42 of the 43 having determined all 43 were bonafide refugees.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/4835788.stm Papua refugees get Australia visa] – ''BBC News'' – [[23 March]] [[2006]].</ref> A day later Indonesia recalled its ambassador to Australia.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/4839762.stm Indonesia recalls Australia envoy] – ''BBC News'' – [[24 March]] [[2006]].</ref> A number of [[expatriate]] Papuans currently campaign for independence in Australia, the [[United Kingdom]] and other countries, and call for international support for their campaigns. Their claims, which sometimes include allegations of historic or present [[genocide]], are strongly challenged by Indonesia, and Papuan independence is not supported by any recognised Government except that of [[Vanuatu]].
== Regions ==
Indonesia structures regions by Regencies and districts within those. Though names and areas of control of these regional structures can vary over time in accord with changing political and other requirements, in 2004 Papua province (including what is now [[West Papua (province)|West Papua province]]) consisted of 27 regencies (kabupaten), 2 cities (kotamadya), 117 subdistricts (kecamatan), 66 kelurahan, and 830 villages (desa).
[[Image:Westpapua1.png|thumb|Map of Papua and West Papua Province (before their separation) showing major cities and before designation of new regencies in 2004.]]
As of 2004, the Regencies in Papua province were: [[Asmat Regency|Asmat]], [[Biak Numfor]], [[Boven Digoel]], [[Jayapura]], [[Kota Jayapura]], [[Jayawijaya]], [[Keerom]], [[Mappi]], [[Merauke]], [[Mimika]], [[Nabire]], [[Paniai]], [[Pegunungan Bintang]], [[Puncak Jaya]], [[Sarmi]], [[Supiori]], [[Tolikara]], [[Waropen]], [[Yahukimo]], and [[Yapen Waropen]].
The Regencies in the same time period for [[West Papua (province)|West Papua province]] were: [[Fakfak|Fak-Fak]], [[Kaimana]], [[Manokwari]], [[Raja Ampat]], [[Sorong]], [[Kota Sorong]], [[Sorong Selatan]], [[Teluk Bintuni]], and [[Teluk Wondama]].
In [[2003]] the western-most third of Papua province was split into a separate province, called [[West Papua (province)|West Irian Jaya]], which was itself renamed West Papua province in [[2007]].
[[Jayapura]], founded in [[1910]] as ''Hollandia'', had by [[1962]] developed into a city with modern civil, educational, and medical services. Since Indonesian administration these services have been replaced by Indonesian equivalents such as the TNI (military) replacing the Papuan police force. The name of the city has been changed from Hollandia, to Kotabaru then Sukarnopura and finally Jayapura.
It is the largest city in Western New Guinea, boasting a small but active tourism industry, it is a neat and pleasant city built on a slope overlooking the bay. [[Cenderawasih University]] campus houses the [[Jayapura Museum]]. [[Tanjung Ria]] beach, well-known to the Allies during World War II, is a popular holiday resort now with facilities for water sports, and General [[Douglas MacArthur|Douglas MacArthur's]] World War II quarters are still intact.
== Geography ==
{| align=right border=1 cellpadding=4 cellspacing=0 style="margin: 1em 0 1em 1em; background: #ffffff; border: 1px #aaaaaa solid; border-collapse: collapse; text-align:center; font-size: 95%;"
! align=center colspan=2 style="background:#efefef;" | Land Area
|-
| Area
| {{convert|420540|km2|sqmi|0|abbr=on}}
|-
! align=center colspan=2 style="background:#efefef;" | Climate
|-
| Rainfall
| 100 to 10,000 mm (4–400 [[Inch|in]])
|-
| Temperature
| 0 to 32 [[Celsius|°C]] (32–90 [[Fahrenheit|°F]])
|-
| Humidity
| 80%
|}
A central East-West [[mountain range]] dominates the geography of New Guinea, over {{convert|1600|km|mi|-0|abbr=on}} in total length. The western section is around {{convert|600|km|mi|-0|abbr=on}} long and {{convert|100|km|mi|-0|abbr=on}} across. Steep mountains 3,000 to 4,000 m (9,850–13,100 ft) and up to {{convert|5000|m|ft|-2|abbr=on}} high along the range ensures a steady supply of rain from the tropical atmosphere. The [[tree line]] is around {{convert|4000|m|ft|-2|abbr=on}} [[elevation]] and the tallest peaks are snowbound year round.
Both north and west of the central ranges the land remains mountainous — mostly 1,000 to 2,000 m (3,300–6,660 ft) high — and covered by thick [[rain forest]] with a warm humid climate year round.
The third major habitat feature is the south east lowlands with extensive [[wetland]]s stretching for hundreds of kilometers.
The province has 40 major [[river]]s, 12 [[lake]]s, and 40 [[island]]s. The [[Mamberamo]] river, sometimes referred to as the "[[Amazon River|Amazon]] of Papua" is the province's largest river which winds through the northern part of the province. The result is a large area of lakes and rivers known as the Lakes Plains region. The vast southern lowlands, which consist of a mosaic of habitats including mangrove, tidal and freshwater swamp forest, and lowland rainforest, are home to a dense population of fishermen and gatherers such as the [[Asmat people]]. The famous [[Baliem Valley]], home of the [[Dani people]] is a tableland {{convert|1600|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}} above sea level in the midst of the central mountain range; [[Puncak Jaya]] (formerly ''Carstensz Pyramid'') is a mist covered limestone mountain peak {{convert|4884|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} above sea level, the highest point in Indonesia.
The border with [[Papua New Guinea]] mostly follows the 141st meridian, with one section defined by the [[Fly River]]. This border is largely unguarded, and has seen a dramatic amount of refugees and illegal aliens cross over to PNG to flee the Indonesians. There are no reliable estimates on how many have crossed.
== Demographics ==
The combined population of the Indonesian provinces of West Irian Jaya and Papua, constituting all of Western New Guinea, was estimated to be 2,646,489 in [[2005]]. The two largest cities in the territory are Sorong in the northwest of the [[Bird's Head Peninsula]] and Jayapura in the northeast. Both cities have a population of approximately 200,000.
As in Papua New Guinea and some surrounding east Indonesian provinces, a large majority of the population is Christian. In the [[2000]] census 54% of West Papuans identified themselves as Protestant, 24% as Catholic, 21% as Muslim, and less than 1% as either Hindu or Buddhist. There is also substantial practice of [[animism]] among the major religions, but this is not recorded by the Indonesian census.
== Tribes ==
[[Image:Church in kualakencana2.png|thumb|Church in Kuala Kencana.]]
Western New Guinea is home to around 312 different tribes, including some [[uncontacted peoples]].<ref>[http://www.survival-international.org/tribes/papuan Survival International - Papua]</ref> The following are some of the most well-known:
*[[Amungme]]
*[[Asmat people|Asmat]]
*[[Bauzi]]
*[[Biak people|Biak]] (Byak)
*[[Damal people|Damal]]
*[[Dani (ethnic group)|Dani]]
*[[Kamoro]]
*[[Kombai people|Kombai]]
*[[Korowai]]
*[[Lani (ethnic group)|Lani]]
*[[Mee (tribe)|Mee]]
*[[Nduga]]
*[[Sawi]]
*[[Sentani people|Sentani]]
*[[Yali people|Yali]]
== Ecology ==
A vital tropical rainforest with the tallest tropical trees and vast biodiversity, Papua's known forest fauna includes [[marsupials]] (including [[possum]]s, [[Wallaby|wallabies]], [[tree-kangaroo]]s, [[cuscus]]), other mammals (including the endangered long-beaked [[echidna]]), many bird species (including [[birds of paradise]], [[Cassowary|cassowaries]], [[parrot]]s, [[cockatoo]]s), the world's longest lizards (Papua [[Monitor lizard|monitor]]) and some of the world's largest butterflies.
{| align=right border=1 cellpadding=4 cellspacing=0 style="margin: 1em 0 1em 1em; background: #ffffff; border: 1px #aaaaaa solid; border-collapse: collapse; font-size: 95%;"
! style="background:#efefef; border-bottom:2px solid gray;" | Animal Class
! style="background:#efefef; border-bottom:2px solid gray;" | Est. Number
|-
| Mammals
| 180
|-
| Marsupial Mammals
| 70
|-
| Birds
| 700
|-
| Endemic Birds
| 450
|-
| Bats
| 70
|}
The island has an estimated 16,000 species of plant, 124 genera of which are endemic.
The extensive waterways and wetlands of Papua are also home to salt and freshwater [[crocodile]], [[tree monitor]], [[megabat|flying foxes]], [[osprey]], [[bats]] and other animals; while the equatorial glacier fields remain largely unexplored.
In February 2005, a team of scientists exploring the [[Foja Mountains]] discovered numerous new species of birds, butterflies, amphibians, and plants, including a species of [[rhododendron]] which may have the largest bloom of the genus.<ref>Robin McDowell: [http://www.canada.com/vancouversun/news/story.html?id=978c0a2b-4d79-4d09-b5a6-074e7daaabb9 'Lost world' yields exotic new species] – ''The Vancouver Sun'' – [[February 8]], [[2006]]</ref>
Ecological dangers include deforestation at an alarming rate; the spread of the exotic [[Crab-eating Macaque]] (monkey) which now threatens the existence of many native species; pollution such as [[Grasberg mine]] dumping 230 000<ref>[http://www.infomine.com/minesite/minesite.asp?site=grasberg Grasberg MineSite | InfoMine<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> tonnes of copper and gold tailings into the rivers system each day.
== Culture ==
West Papuans share many affinities with the [[culture of Papua New Guinea]] (PNG) to the east. As with PNG, the peoples of the highlands have distinct traditions and languages from peoples of the coasts.
Many aspects of West Papuan culture have been forcibly repressed since the area's 1963 incorporation into the Indonesian state. In 2001 the province was granted special autonomy by the Indonesian government, opening the possibility of increased indigenous [[Creative industries|cultural production]] and arts venues.
Some Papuans fear that the history of Indonesian repression, education, propaganda, and transmigration have negatively impacted Papuan cultures. In March 2003 [[John Rumbiak]] stated that Papuan culture "will be extinct" within 10 to 20 years, if the present rate of assimilation in the region continues.<ref>[http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2003/02/26/1046064103643.html The exile who fights for the rights of all Papuans] - By Martin Flanagan, ''[[The Age]]'' – [[27 February]] [[2003]]</ref> In response to such criticism the Indonesian government states that the special autonomy arrangement specifically addresses the ongoing preservation of Papua culture, and that the [[transmigration program]] was "designed specifically to help the locals through knowledge transfer."<ref>[http://www.kbri-canberra.org.au/letoe/2003/030303b.htm Letter to the Editor: "Papua culture is not at risk."] - ''[[The Age]]'', [[3 March]] [[2003]]</ref> Papua advocates view such responses as a continuation of the Indonesian state's tendency to view Papuans as "primitives" in need of "development."<ref> Denise Leith, 2003. ''The Politics of Power: Freeport in Suharto’s Indonesia,'' University of Hawai’i Press, Honolulu. ''See also [[White man's burden]].''</ref>
In some parts of the highlands, the [[koteka]] is traditionally worn by males in ceremonial contexts. Despite government efforts to suppress it, the use of the koteka as everyday dress by [[dani people|Dani]] males in Western New Guinea is still very common.
== See also ==
*[[Papua]]
*[[New Guinea]]
*[[Papua (Indonesian province)]]
*[[West Papua (province)]]
*[[Netherlands New Guinea]]
*[[Kaiser-Wilhelmsland]]
*[[British New Guinea]]
*[[German New Guinea]]
*[[Dutch New Guinea]]
*[[Human rights in western New Guinea]]
*[[Asmat people]]
*[[Dani people]]
*[[Postage Stamps of West Irian]]
*[[Genocides in history#West New Guinea / West Papua|Genocides in history]]
==References==
* Leith, Denise. 2002. ''The Politics of Power: Freeport in Suharto's Indonesia.'' Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press. ISBN 0-8248-2566-7
* Conboy, Ken. 2003. ''Kopassus.'' Equinox Publishing, Jakarta Indonesia. ISBN 979-95898-8-6
*[http://www.fpcn-global.org/index.php?module=htmlpages&func=display&pid=1 Online documentaries on the West Papuan struggle for independence, sponsored by West German-based Friends of Peoples Close to Nature]
==Notes==
{{reflist|2}}
==Further reading==
*Penders, C.L.M., ''The West New Guinea debacle. Dutch decolonisation and Indonesia 1945-1962'', Leiden 2002, [[KITLV]]
== External links ==
* [http://www.koteka.net International Action for West Papua]
* [http://www.freewestpapua.org Free West Papua]
* [http://www.eco-action.org/ssp/resources.html Extensive Library, some material written by Lani (highland) tribespeople]
* [http://www.papuaweb.org/ PapuaWeb]
* [http://www.law.yale.edu/documents/pdf/westpapuahrights.pdf "Human Abuse in West Papua - Application of Law to Genocide"]
* [http://wpik.org/ West Papua Information Kit (Govt. and NGO reports, news items and contemporary)]
* [http://www.gwu.edu/~nsarchiv/NSAEBB/NSAEBB128/index.htm Declassified US documents on "Act of free choice"]
* [http://www.westpapua.net/ Papua Press Agency]
* [http://www.melanesianews.org/ Papuan Independence Organisations]
*[http://www.cimelanesia.org.pg/where/ci_melwhere.htm Conservation International's program in Mamberamo Basin]
*[http://www.sidsnet.org/archives/biodiversity-newswire/2001/0055.html Monkeys Threaten Papua's Wildlife]
*[http://www.wetlands.or.id/irj20.htm Wetlands International Study on western Papua wetlands]
<!-- The following links should be used as sources, because their primary site is not only about Western New Guinea !!
*[http://www.indopacific.org/asmat.asp Indo-Pacific Conservation Alliance program in Asmat]
*[http://www.indopacific.org/biodiversity.asp#NGB New Guinea biodiversity information]
*[http://www.panda.org/about_wwf/where_we_work/ecoregions/newguinea_montane_forests.cfm New Guinea Montane Forests - WWF Global 200 Ecoregion]
*[http://www.panda.org/about_wwf/where_we_work/ecoregions/southnewguinea_lowland_forests.cfm Southern New Guinea Lowland Forests - WWF Global 200 Ecoregion]
*[http://www.panda.org/about_wwf/where_we_work/ecoregions/australia_transfly_savannas.cfm Trans-Fly Savanna - WWF Global 200 Ecoregion]
-->
{{coor title dm|4|00|S|136|00|E|region:ID}}
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[[Category:Western New Guinea| ]]
[[Category:Disputed territories]]
[[Category:Territories under military occupation]]
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[[br:Papoua ar C'hornaoueg]]
[[bg:Западна Нова Гвинея]]
[[ca:Papua Occidental]]
[[cs:Západní Papua]]
[[de:West-Neuguinea]]
[[eo:Okcidenta Nov-Gvineo]]
[[fr:Nouvelle-Guinée occidentale]]
[[is:Vestur-Nýja-Gínea]]
[[it:Irian Jaya]]
[[pam:Western New Guinea]]
[[lt:Vakarų Naujoji Gvinėja]]
[[nl:Irian Jaya]]
[[pl:Irian Zachodni]]
[[ru:Западная Новая Гвинея]]
[[simple:Western New Guinea]]
[[fi:Länsi-Papua]]
[[th:นิวกินีตะวันตก]]
[[vi:Tây New Guinea]]