Zadar
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2008-07-16T17:49:46Z
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Copy edit, added minor detail, refs, wikilinks, standardised place names in line with [[WP:NCGN]]
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{{Infobox Settlement
|official_name = City of Zadar
|other_name =
|native_name = Grad Zadar
|image_skyline = Zadar.jpg
|image_caption = View of the old city centre from the bell tower of cathedral St. Stošija
|image_flag = Vlag zadar.gif
|flag_size = 150px
|image_seal = Coat of Arms of Zadar.gif
|seal_size = 90px
|pushpin_map = Croatia
|map_caption = Location of Zadar in Croatia
|subdivision_type = [[Countries of the world|Country]]
|subdivision_name = [[Croatia]]
|subdivision_type1 = [[Counties of Croatia|County]]
|subdivision_name1 = [[Zadar County|Zadar]]
|area_total_km2 = 194
|population_as_of = 2001
|population_note =
|population_total = 72,717
|latd = 44
|latm = 6
|lats = 51
|latNS = N
|longd = 15
|longm = 13
|longs = 40
|longEW = E
|leader_title = Mayor
|leader_name = Dr. Živko Kolega ([[HDZ|CDU]])
|timezone = [[Central European Time|CET]]
|utc_offset = +1
|timezone_DST =[[Central European Summer Time|CEST]]
|utc_offset_DST =+2
|notes =
}}
'''Zadar''' ([[Liburnian language|Liburnian]] ''Iadera''?, [[Greek language|Greek]]: ''Idassa'', ''Ίδασσα'', ''Iàdeira'', ''Ιαδειρα'', {{lang-la|Iader}}, [[Dalmatian language|Dalmatian]]: ''Jadra'', ''Jadera'', {{lang-it|Zara}}) is a [[List of cities in Croatia|city]] in [[Croatia]] on the [[Adriatic Sea]], with a population of 72,717 (2001). It is the fifth largest Croatian city. 93% of its citizens are ethnic Croats (2001 census).<br />
It is the centre of Croatia's [[Zadar county]] and the wider northern [[Dalmatia]]n region. Zadar is located opposite the islands of [[Ugljan]] and [[Pašman]], from which it is separated by the narrow Zadar Strait.<br />
The promontory on which the old city stands used to be separated from the mainland by a deep moat which has since become a landfill. The harbor, to the north-east of the town, is safe and spacious.<br />
Zadar is the seat of a [[Catholic Church|Catholic]] [[Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Zadar|archbishop]].
==Place names==
To avoid confusion and in line with [[WP:NCGN|convention]], this article uses modern English place names throughout. However, most places have alternate names in [[Italian language|Italian]]. See [[List of Italian place names in Dalmatia]].
== Name ==
In the Antique names of the city ''Iadera'' and ''Iader'' much older roots were hidden, of a name the most probably related to a hydrographical term. It was coined by an ancient Mediterranean people and their [[Old European culture|Pre-Indo-European]] language. They transmitted it to the later settlers, [[Liburnians]]. The name of Liburnian city was first mentioned by a [[Greek language|Greek]] inscription from Pharos (Starigrad) on the island of [[Hvar]] in 384 BC, where the citizens of Zadar were noted as ''Ίαδασινοί'' (''Iadasinoi''). According to the Greek source [[Periplus of Pseudo-Scylax]] the city was ''Ίδασσα'' (''Idassa''), probably a vulgar Greek form of the original Liburnian name.
During [[classical antiquity|Antiquity]] the name was often recorded in sources in [[Latin language|Latin]] in two forms: ''Iader'' in the inscriptions and in the writings of classic writers, ''Iadera'' predominantly among the late Antiquity writers, while usual ethnonyms were ''Iadestines'' and ''Iadertines''. The accent was on the first syllable in both Iader and Iadera forms, which influenced the early-Medieval [[Dalmatian language]] forms ''Jadra'', ''Jadera'' and ''Jadertina'', where the accent kept its original place.
In the Dalmatian language, ''Jadra'' (''Jadera'') was pronounced ''Zadra'' (''Zadera''), due to the phonetic transformation of ''Ja''- to ''Za''-. That early change was also reflected in the [[Croatian language|Croatian]] name ''Zadar'', developed from ''Zadъrъ'' by compensation with half-vocal and translation to male gender. An ethnonym graphic ''Jaderani'' from the legend of St. Krševan in 9th century, was identical to the initial [[Old Church Slavonic|old-Slavic]] form ''Zadъrane'', or [[Renaissance]] Croatian ''Zadrani''.
The Dalmatian names ''Jadra'', ''Jadera'' were transferred to other languages; in [[Venetian language]] ''Jatara'' (hyper urbanism in 9th century) and ''Zara'', [[Tuscan dialect|Tuscan]] ''Giara'', Latin ''Diadora'' ([[Constantine VII]] in [[De Administrando Imperio|DAI]], 10th century), [[Old French]] ''Jadres'' (Geoffroy de Villehardouinin in the chronicles of the [[Fourth Crusade]] in 1202), [[Arabic language|Arabic]] ''Jadora'' (Al-Idrisi, 12th century), ''Iadora'' (Guido, 12th century), [[Spanish language|Spanish]] ''Jazara'', ''Jara'', ''Sarra'' (14th century) and the others.
Jadera became Zara when it fell under the authority of the [[Republic of Venice]] in the 15th century.
Zara was later used by the [[Austrian Empire]] in the 19th century, but it was provisionally changed to Zadar from 1910 to 1920 and finally in 1945.<ref>Mate Suić: ''O imenu Zadra'', Zadar Zbornik, Matica Hrvatska, Zagreb 1964</ref> <ref>M.Suić: Prošlost Zadra 1, ''Zadar u starom vijeku'', Filozofski Fakultet Zadar, 1981</ref>
== History ==
=== Prehistory ===
The entire district of present day Zadar has been populated since prehistoric times. The earliest evidence of human life comes from the Late [[Stone Age]], while numerous settlements have been dated as early as the [[Neolithic]]. Before the [[Illyrians]], the area was inhabited by an ancient [[Mediterranean]] people of a [[Old European culture|pre-Indo-European culture]]. They assimilated with the [[Indo-Europeans]] who settled between the 4th and 2nd millennium BC into a new ethnical unity, that of the [[Liburnians]], who were outlined materially in 9th century BC.
=== Antiquity ===
In the [[9th century BC]] Iadera was settled by the [[Liburni]]ans, a tribe of [[Illyrians]], who were known as great sailors and merchants. By the [[7th Century BC]] it had become an important centre for their trading activities with the [[Ancient Greece|Greeks]] and the [[Ancient Rome|Romans]]. Its population at that time is estimated at 2,000. The people of Iadera, the ''Iadasinoi'' were first mentioned in a Greek inscription (384 BC) as the leading enemies of the Greek colonists in the Adriatic Sea in the period of Greek colonization (6th – 4th centuries BC).
[[Image:Liburna Rome BC31.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Liburnian ship - ''Liburna'']]
In the middle of the [[2nd century BC]], the Romans began to gradually invade the region. After [[59 BC]], Liburnian Iadera became a [[Ancient Rome|Roman]] [[municipium]], while in the first years of the reign of emperor [[Augustus]] ([[48 BC]]) it became a colony of Roman citizens (settled mostly by [[Legionary|legionary]] veterans) and was granted the title ''Iulia'' after its founder – ''colonia Iulia Iader''. From the early days of Roman domination, Iader gained its urban character and developed into the one of the most flourishing centres on the eastern Adriatic coast, which lasted for several hundred years, until waves of marauding tribes battered the region. By some estimations, in the 4th century it had probably around ten thousand citizens, including the population from its ''agrar'', the nearby islands and hinterland, a mixture of Romans and indigenous Liburnians. In 441 and 447 Dalmatia was ravaged by the [[Huns]].
=== The Medieval Period ===
After the [[fall of the Western Roman Empire]], in 481 Dalmatia bacame part of the [[Ostrogothic kingdom]], which already included the more northerly parts of [[Illyricum]], i.e. [[Pannonia]] and [[Noricum]].
In 536 the [[Byzantine emperor]] [[Justinian|Justinian the Great]] started a military campaign to reconquer the territories of the former Western Empire (see [[Gothic War (535–552)|Gothic War]]); consequently Zadar became part of the [[Byzantine Empire]].<ref name=Illyria>[http://www.1911encyclopedia.org/Illyria Britannica 1911: Illyria]</ref>
In 568 Dalmatia was devastated by an[[Eurasian Avars|Avar]] invasion, and throughout the century Slavs (i.e. early Croatian and Serbian tribes), its modern occupants, gradually established themselves in Illyria, where, unlike the earlier barbarian conquerors, they formed permanent settlements. Between 600 and 650 the main body of the immigrants occupied Illyria.<ref name=Illyria/>
In other parts of the Balkan Peninsula, Serbs and Croats quickly absorbed the native population. However, the coastal cities managed to resist immediate cultural assimilation (mostly due to Byzantine influence). This sociologic process was instead to take many centuries to reach completion. Consequently, the rural areas were settled by Croats and Serbs, while the native population, mostly consisting of romanized Illyrians, was either eventually assimilated or migrated to the cities (such as [[Split|Spalatum]], Iader and [[Dubrovnik|Ragusa]]. This gradual, long process took place in the 7th and 8th centuries. Dalmatia was, thus, a region culturally divided between the Romanic Byzantine cities and the Slavic hinterland (though the Slavs did establish coastal cities of their own, such as [[Šibenik]]). These two communities were known to harbor dislike for one another, a grievous circumstance which sometimes resulted in disputes.<ref name=Illyria/><ref name=Dalmatia>[http://www.1911encyclopedia.org/Dalmatia Britannica 1911: Dalmatia]</ref> Other Romanic natives (later called [[Morlachs]]) took refuge in the mountainous interior of Dalmatia, where they preserved their culture for several centuries.<ref name=Illyria/>
Zadar survived those turbulent times due its strategic position and its strong defensive system and managed to maintain its Roman heritage (such as its dialect of the independent [[Dalmatian language]]). <br>
Because of the destruction of Dalmatia's capital [[Salona]] and the relocation of its people to nearby Spalatum (Split), Zadar in time became the capital of the Byzantine Theme (administrative unit) of [[Dalmatia]], and was the seat of the imperial Governor. [[Byzantium]], as the protector of Dalmatia enjoyed a strong military and political presence there, due to the persistent threat of invasion by the new [[Venetian Republic]].
However, the geographical position of Zadar suffices to explain the relatively small influence exercised by Byzantine culture throughout the six centuries (535-1102) of Byzantine rule.<ref name=Dalmatia/> It maintained a large degree of autonomy throughout this time. Along with other Dalmatian urban settlements it soon came to resemble a typical medieval commune.
In 806 Dalmatia was briefly occupied by the [[Holy Roman empire]] under [[Pepin of Italy|Pepin]], but this was quickly reversed and the cities were given back to Byzantium in 812, by the [[Treaty of Aachen]].<ref name=Dalmatia/>
Meanwhile, the Croatian state formed inland, and trade and political links with Zadar began to develop. Croatian settlers began to arrive, becoming commonplace by the 10th century. In [[925]], [[Tomislav]], the Duke of Croatian Dalmatia , united Croatian [[Dalmatia]] and [[Pannonia]] establishing the [[Kingdom of Croatia (Medieval)|Croatian Kingdom]]. He also was granted the position of protector of Dalmatia (the cities) by the Byzantine Emperor. He thus politically united the Dalmatian cities with their hinterland for the first time. In 998 Zadar sought Venetian protection against the [[Neretvians|Neretvian pirates]], who had settled near the mouth of the [[Neretva]] river.<ref name=Zara>[http://www.1911encyclopedia.org/Zara Britannica 1911: Zara]</ref><ref name=Dalmatia/>
The Venetians were quick to fully exploit this opportunity: in 998 a fleet commanded by [[Doge of Venice|Doge]] [[Pietro Orseolo II]], after having defeated pirates, landed in [[Korčula]] and [[Lastovo]]. Dalmatia was taken by surprise and offered little serious resistance. [[Trogir]] was the exception and was subjected to Venetian rule only after a bloody struggle, whereas the [[Republic of Dubrovnik]] was forced to pay tribute. Pietro proclaimed himself ''Dux Dalmatianorum'' (Duke of the Dalmatians), associating it with his son (carefully agreeing to Byzantine suzerainty).<ref name=Illyria/><ref name=Dalmatia/>
The Croatian kings meanwhile established their own maritime cities, such as [[Nin, Croatia|Nin]] and [[Biograd na Moru]] (also later [[Šibenik]]).<ref name=Dalmatia/> The Church, for its part, was in a state of general confusion; in 1059 at a church synod in [[Split]] it forbade the use of any language but liturgies in [[Greek language|Greek]] or [[Latin language|Latin]], and so accentuated the differences between the Romanic and Slavic population.<ref name=Dalmatia/>
In the [[10th century]] the cities came back under Croatian administration and Zadar sought independence from Byzantium. In [[1069]] the city was joined with Croatia by treaty for the second time by Croatian King [[Petar Krešimir IV of Croatia|Petar Krešimir IV the Great]].
[[Image:Coat of Arms Zara.jpg|right|thumb|130px|Coat of Arms of Zadar.]]
=== Rivalry of Venice and Croatia-Hungary in Dalmatia ===
In 1099, the [[Kingdom of Croatia]] was invaded and forced into a [[personal union]] with the [[Hungary|Hungarian]] king [[Coloman]]. In 1105 Zadar recognized his rule.
Zadar was repeatedly invaded by Venice between 1111 and 1154 and then once more between 1160 and 1183.
In 1183 it finally rebelled, pleading to the Pope and to the Croato-Hungarian throne for protection, but in the year 1202 the [[Fourth Crusade]] began to form in Europe. The [[crusaders]] were, however, dependent upon Venice for transportation to Egypt and they were 34,000 marks short of amount they required. Ever the opportunist, [[Enrico Dandolo|Doge Enrico Dandolo]] instructed the crusader army that for late payment (they were to pay the Venetians out of the first spoils they gained in the crusade) they should lay siege to the troublesome Dalmatian capital. Forced by their lack of money the Crusaders agreed and [[Siege of Zara|besieged Zadar]]. The overwhelmed city soon fell back under Venetian rule.
This did not break the spirit of the city, however. Its commerce was suffering due to a lack of autonomy under Venice. They enjoyed considerable autonomy under the distant, much more feudal Croatian-Hungarian kings. A number of insurrections followed (1242-1243, 1320s, 1345-1346) which resulted finally in Zadar coming back under the crown of the Croatian-Hungarian king [[Louis I of Hungary|Louis I]] by the [[Treaty of Zara|Treaty of Zadar]], in 1358. After the death of Louis, Zadar recognized the rule of king [[Sigismund, Holy Roman Emperor|Sigismund]], and after him, that of [[Ladislas of Naples|Ladislas Anjou]]. During his reign Croatia-Hungary was enveloped in a bloody civil war. In 1409, Venice, seeing that Ladislas was about to be defeated, and eager to exploit the situation despite its relative military weakness, offered to buy his "rights" on Dalmatia for a mere 100,000 ducats. Knowing he had lost the region in any case, Ladislas accepted. Zadar was, thus, sold back to the Venetians for a paltry sum.[[Image:Zadar PortaTerraferma.jpg|left|thumb|220px|Zadar's "Kopnena Vrata"]]
=== Venetian Republic (1409-1797) ===
[[Image:Dalmazia1560.png|thumb|200 px|The Adriatic in 1560, with Dalmatia and Zadar]]
In the early 16th century the [[Ottoman Empire|Ottoman Turks]] conquered Dalmatia's hinterland and the city became, in essence, a military stronghold protecting Venetian trade in the Adriatic, as well as the administrative centre of the Venetian conquests in Dalmatia.<br />
From 1726-1733, part of its territory was settled by Catholic Albanian refugees. That Albanian settlement was called "Arbanasi".
=== Napoleonic era (1797-1813) ===
After the fall of Venice (1797) with the [[Treaty of Campo Formio]], Zadar come under the [[Austrian Empire|Austria]]n crown and once again became united with the rest of Croatia. In 1806 it was briefly given to the Napoleonic [[Kingdom of Italy (Napoleonic)|Kingdom of Italy]], until in 1809 it was added to the French [[Illyrian Provinces]]. In 1813 all Dalmatia was reconquered and brought back under the control of the Austrian Empire.
During this time, it maintained its position as the capital of Dalmatia. <br />
During the Napoleonic era, the first Dalmatian newspaper, [[Kraglski Dalmatin - Il Regio Dalmata|''"Kraglski Dalmatin - Il Regio Dalmata"'']] (''"The Royal Dalmatian"''), was printed in the city.
=== Austrian Empire (1815-1918): the age of nationalism ===
After [[1815]] Dalmatia (including Dubrovnik) came under the [[Austrian Empire|Austrian]] crown. After 1848, Italian and Slavic nationalism became accentuated and the city became divided between the Croats and the Italians, both of whom founded their respective political parties. There are conflicting sources for both sides claiming to have formed the majority in this period; in general the era saw Slavs grow more than Italians throughout Dalmatia, fostering a neatly distinct national spirit.
=== Italy (1920-1945) ===
In October 31 1918 the population of Zadar rebelled against Austrian rule and raised the Italian flag and on 4 November 1918 the city was occupied by the Italian army. The [[Treaty of Rapallo]] (12 November 1920) gave Zadar with other local territory to Italy. The Zara enclave, a total of 104 sq km, included the city of [[Zadar]], the municipalities of [[Bocanjaċ]], [[Arbanasi]], [[Črno]], part of [[Diklo]] (a total of 51 sq. km. of territory and 17,065 inhabitants) and the islands of [[Lastovo]] and [[Palagruža]] (53 sq km, 1,710 inhabitants). The territory was organized into an [[Italian province]]. Zadar remained under Italian sovereignty until 31 October 1944.
[[Image:Zaracity.jpg|thumb|200 px|City Zara/Zadar]]
=== World War II ===
[[Nazi Germany|Germany]] with limited Italian assistance [[Invasion of Yugoslavia|invaded the Kingdom of Yugoslavia]] on [[April 6]], [[1941]]. Zadar held a force of 9,000 that after limited fighting reached Šibenik and Split on [[April 15]], a mere 2 days before surrender, with civilians having previously been evacuated to [[Ancona]] and [[Pula]]. Occupying [[Mostar]] and Dubrovnik, on [[April 17]] they met invading troops that had started out from Italian-occupied [[Albania]]. On [[April 17]] the Yugoslav government surrendered, faced with the [[Wehrmacht]]'s overwhelming superiority.
.
Within a few weeks, [[Mussolini]] required the newly formed Nazi puppet-state, the so-called [[Independent State of Croatia]] (NDH) to hand over almost all of Dalmatia (including Split and even [[Knin]]) to fascist Italy under the [[Treaty of Rome (1941)|Treaty of Rome]].<br>
The city became the centre of a new Italian province, called [[Governorship of Dalmatia]]. In general, this treaty was recognized only by the [[Axis powers|Axis]] and was, thus, considered void. For the rest of the world, and, indeed, the local populace, Dalmatia was under Italian occupation.<br />
Under fascist reign the Slavic population was subjected to a policy of forced assimilation. This created immense resentment among the Yugoslav people and the [[Partisans (Yugoslavia)|Yugoslav Partisan movement]] (which was already successfully spreading in the rest of Yugoslavia) particularly took root here. The Italians used [[concentration camps]] (among others the [[Rab concentration camp|Rab]] and [[Gonars]] camps), and to suppress the mounting resistance led by the Partisans adopted tactics of "summary executions, hostage-taking, reprisals, internments and the burning of houses and villages" <ref>[http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/routledg/rmis/2004/00000009/00000003/art00005 IngentaConnect General Roatta's war against the partisans in Yugoslavia: 1942<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref>.<br />
After [[Benito Mussolini|Mussolini]] was removed from power, the government of [[Pietro Badoglio]] [[Armistice with Italy|surrendered]] to the [[Allies of World War II|Allies]], and on [[September 8]], [[1943]], the Italian army collapsed and was quickly disarmed. [[Duce|"Il Duce"]] was rescued, however, and formed the Nazi-puppet [[Italian Social Republic]] in the north of the country. The NDH proclaimed the Treaty of Rome to be void and occupied Dalmatia with German support. The Germans entered Zadar first, and on [[September 10]] the German 114th Jäger Division took over. This avoided a temporary liberation by Partisans, as was the case in Split and Šibenik where several Italian fascist government officials were killed by an angry crowd. The Partisans enjoyed massive support from the locals in Split, and before the reoccupation by German forces, nearly a third of Split's population (including the entire local football team [[HNK Hajduk Split|HNK Hajduk]]) joined the Partisan movement.<br />
The city was prevented from joining the NDH on the grounds that Zadar itself was not subject to the conditions of the Treaty of Rome. Despite this, the NDH's leader [[Ante Pavelić]] designated Zadar as the capital of the Sidraga-Ravni Kotari County, although its administrator was prevented from entering the city. Zadar remained under the local administration of the Italian Social Republic.<br />
Zadar was [[Bombing of Zadar in World War II|bombed]] by the Allies, with serious civilian casualties. Italian sources often claim that this was made in order to 'ethnically cleanse' the ancient town and avoid subsequent troubles for the victorious Titoist army. Thousands died in the Allied carpet bombings, and many landmarks and centuries old works of art were destroyed. Many civilians fled to safety in Italy. <br>
In 1944 the [[Partisans (Yugoslavia)|partisan]]s entered the town. The city, resettled by Croatians, successfully recovered and became once more an important regional city in the newly established [[Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia]].
=== SFR Yugoslavia (1945-1991) ===
During this period Zadar underwent intensive reconstruction and revitalisation, followed by a large increase in both population and economic power. The Federal government sponsored numerous public works to this end, including the [[Adriatic Highway]] (''Jadranska magistrala'') which provided a modern road connection to the rest of the country. Besides the local infrastructure, the SFRY government initiated the industrialization of the city and nearly all its factories were either built or significantly revitalized and modernized in this period. In the 1970's Zadar particularly enjoyed a high standard of living as international [[Tourism in Croatia|tourism]] came to Dalmatia.
However, during this period the city lost its status as the capital of the region, with [[Split]] overwhelmingly surpassing Zadar in population numbers, which, though increasing throughout the 20th century, boomed in the new, post-WWII, Yugoslavia.
All in all, by the 1990's the city had not only been rebuilt after the Second World War, but had emerged as a modern and completely industrialized regional centre, with as yet unsurpassed tourist numbers, GDP and employment rates, which were, surprisingly, significantly higher than the present day's.
=== Recent history ===
After the death of [[Josip Broz Tito|Tito]], Yugoslavia rapidly began to destabilize. In the early 1990's the tragic [[Yugoslav wars]] began to devastate the country. Zadar became a part of the new [[Republic of Croatia]]. Its economy suffered greatly in the period, not so much because of the war itself, but due to the shadowy and controversial privatization process, which caused most of its prosperous companies to go under. During the [[Croatian War of Independence]], [[Republic of Serbian Krajina|Krajina rebels]] with the protection of the serbianized [[Yugoslav People's Army]] (JNA) under [[Slobodan Milošević]]'s control, converged on the city and subjected it to artillery bombardment, in what is now known as the [[Battle of Dalmatia]]. Their aim was to cut Dalmatia off from Croatia and give the remnants of the [[SFR Yugoslav Navy|Yugoslav Navy]] (JRM) a port on the mainland. Along with other Croatian towns in the area, Zadar was sporadically shelled for several years, which damaged buildings and homes as well as [[UNESCO]] protected sites. Attacks in nearby towns and villages occurred, the most brutal being the [[Škabrnja massacre]], where 86 people were killed. Connections with [[Zagreb]] were severed for over a year, the only link between the north and south of the country was via the island of [[Pag (island)|Pag]]. The [[siege]] of the city lasted from 1991 until January 1993 when Zadar and the surrounding area came under the control of Croatian forces in [[Operation Maslenica]]. Attacks on the city continued until [[Operation Storm|the end of the war]] in 1995.
==Main sights==
===Architecture===
Zadar gained its [[urbanization|urban]] structure in Roman times; during the time of [[Julius Caesar]] and Emperor [[Augustus]], the town was fortified and the [[city wall]]s with towers and gates were built. On the western side of the town were the [[Forum (Roman)|forum]], the [[basilica]] and the [[temple]], while outside the town were the [[amphitheatre]] and [[cemetery|cemeteries]]. The [[aqueduct]] which supplied the town with water is partially preserved. Inside the ancient town, a [[medieval]] town had developed with a series of [[church]]es and [[monastery|monasteries]] being built.
During the [[Middle Ages]], Zadar fully gained its urban aspect, which has been maintained until today. In the 16th century, Venice fortified the town with a new system of defensive walls on the side facing land. In the first half of the 16th century, architectural building in the [[Renaissance]] style was continued. Defensive trenches (Foša) were also built , which were completely buried during the Italian occupation. In 1873 under [[Austria]]n rule the ramparts of Zadar were converted from fortifications into elevated promenades commanding extensive seaward and landward views, wall lines thus being preserved; of its four old gates one, the Porta Marina, incorporates the relics of a Roman arch, and another, the Porta di Terraferma, was designed in the 16th century by the Veronese artist [[Michele Sanmicheli]]. In the bombardments during the Second World War entire blocks were destroyed, but some structures survived.
[[Image:Zadar - église Saint-Donat.jpg|right|thumb|250px|St. Donatus' Church, a pre-Romanesque church from the 9th century.]]
[[Image:Zadar.St.Stosija.j1.jpg|right|thumb|250px|St. Mary's Church, located in the old city across St. Donatus' Church.]]
Most important landmarks:
* Roman [[Forum (Roman)|Forum]] - the largest on the eastern side of the Adriatic, founded by the first Roman Emperor [[Augustus]], as shown by two stone inscriptions about its completion dating from the 3rd century.
* Most Roman remains were used in the construction of the fortifications, but two squares are embellished with lofty marble columns; a Roman tower stands on the eastern side of the town; and some remains of a [[Roman aqueduct]] may be seen outside the ramparts.
The chief interest of Zadar lies in its churches.
* [[Saint Donatus of Zadar|St Donatus']] Church - a monumental round building from the 9th century in pre-Romanesque style, traditionally but erroneously said to have been erected on the site of a temple of Juno. It is the most important preserved structure of its period in Dalmatia; the massive dome of the [[rotunda]] is surrounded by a vaulted gallery in two stories which also extends around the three [[apses]] to the east. The church treasury contains some of the finest Dalmatian metalwork; notably the silver ark or reliquary of St Simeon (1380), and the pastoral staff of Bishop Valaresso (1460).
* [[Cathedral of St. Anastasia, Zadar|St. Anastasia's Cathedral]] (Croatian: ''Sv. Stošija''), basilica in [[Romanesque architecture|Romanesque]] style built in the 12th to 13th century (high Romanesque style), the largest cathedral in Dalmatia.
* The churches of [[Saint Chrysogonus|St. Chrysogonus]] and St. Simeon are also in the Romanesque style.
* St. Krševan's Church - monumental Romanesque church of very fine proportions and refined Romanesque ornaments.
* St. Elijah's Church (Croatian: ''Sv. Ilija'')
* St. Francis' Church, gothic styled church, site of the signing of the Zadar Peace Treaty 1358
* Five Wells Square
* St. Mary's Church, which retains a fine Romanesque [[campanile]] from 1105, belongs to a Benedictine Convent founded in 1066 by a noblewoman of Zadar by the name of Cika with The Permanent Ecclesiastical Art Exhibition "The Gold and Silver of Zadar"
Other architectural landmarks:
* Citadel - built in 1409, southwest of the Land gate, it has remained the same to this day.
* The Land Gate - built to a design by the Venetian architect [[Michele Sanmicheli]] in 1543
* The unique [[sea organ]][http://youtube.com/watch?v=8Y1MzruvvJc&mode=related&search=]
* The Great Arsenal [http://www.arsenalzadar.com]
* Among the other chief buildings are the Loggia del Comune, rebuilt in 1565, and containing a public library; the old palace of the priors, now the governor's residence; and the episcopal palaces.
===Culture===
The first university of Zadar was mentioned in writing as early as in [[1396]] and it was a part of a [[Dominican Order|Dominican]] monastery. It closed in 1807.
Zadar was, along with [[Split]] and [[Dubrovnik]], one of the centres of the development of [[Croatian literature]].
The [[15th century|15th]] and 16th centuries were marked by important activities of Croatians writing in the national language: [[Jerolim Vidolic|Jerolim Vidolić]], [[Petar Zoranic|Petar Zoranić]] (who wrote the first Croatian [[novel]], ''Mountains''), [[Brne Krnarutic|Brne Krnarutić]], [[Juraj Baraković|Juraj Barakovic]], [[Sime Budinic|Šime Budinić]].
Under French rule (1806–1810), the first Dalmatian newspaper [[Il Regio Dalmata|Kraglski Dalmatin - Il Regio Dalmata]] was published in Zadar. It was printed in Italian and Croatian; this last used for the first time in a newspaper.
[[Image:Regio Dalmata.jpg|right|thumb|250px|''Il Regio Dalmata-Kraglski Dalmatin''. Printed in Italian and Croatian.]]
In the second half of the 19th century, Zadar was a centre of the movement for the cultural and national revivals in Dalmatia (Italian and Croatian).
Today Zadar's cultural institutions include:
* The Croatian Theatre House
* The National Museum
* The Archaeological Museum (established in 1830)
* The [[University of Zadar]] (refounded in 2003)
* The Maritime Museum
* Permanent Exhibition of Sacral Art
* Croatian Singing Musical Society Zoranić (established [[1885]])
* [[Musical Evenings in St. Donatus]] [http://www.donat-festival.com] (established [[1961]])
* [http://natjecanjezborova.com/ International Choirs Competition] (established [[1997]])
* Arsenal Zadar [http://www.arsenalzadar.com]
==Government==
The administrative area of the City of Zadar includes the nearby villages of Babindub, Crno, Kožino and Petrčane, as well as the islands of [[Ist]], [[Iž]], [[Molat]], [[Olib]], [[Premuda]], [[Rava]] and [[Silba]]. The total city area, including the islands, covers 194 km2.
Zadar is divided into 21 local districts: Arbanasi, Bili Brig, Bokanjac, Brodarica, Crvene Kuće, Diklo, Dračevac, Gaženica, Jazine I, Jazine II, Maslina, Novi Bokanjac, Poluotok, Ploča, Puntamika, Ričina, Smiljevac, Stanovi, Vidikovac, Višnjik, Voštarnica.
==Economy==
Major industries include tourism, traffic, seaborne trade, agriculture, fishing and fish farming activities, metal manufacturing and mechanical engineering industry, chemicals and non-metal industry and banking. The headquarters of the following companies are located in Zadar:
*[http://www.maraska.hr Maraska] (food industry)
* [http://www.luxardo.it Luxardo] (the original Maraschino)
* Adria, Mardešić (fish production)
*[http://www.tankerska.hr Tankerska plovidba Zadar] (shipping company)
*[http://www.sas-strojogradnja.biz SAS] (machine tools)
*[http://www.afp.hr/ Aluflexpack]
*Arsenal Holdings [http://www.arsenalholdings.com] (Tourism)
The farmland just northeast of Zadar, ''Ravni Kotari'', is a well known source of marasca [[cherry|cherries]]. Distilleries in Zadar have produced [[Maraschino]] since the 16th century.
== Science ==
In 1998, Zadar hosted the [[Central European Olympiad in Informatics]] (CEOI).
== Transportation ==
In the 20th century, roads became more important than sea routes, but Zadar remained an important traffic point. The main road along the Adriatic passes through the city. In the immediate vicinity, there is the [[A1 (Croatia)|Zagreb-Split highway]], finished in [[2005]]. Since [[1966]], a railroad has linked it with [[Knin]], where it joins the main railroad from Zagreb to Split. It has an international sea line to [[Ancona]] in Italy. [[Zadar Airport]] is in [[Zemunik]], around 14 km to the east. It is planned to build a semi-highway from the port of [[Gaženica]] in Zadar to the highway hub of [[Zemunik]]. Another plan is the "Adriatic railroad" linking [[Gospić]] with Zadar and Split.
== Sports ==
The local basketball club is [[KK Zadar]], and the football club [[NK Zadar]]. The bowling club Kuglački klub Zadar is also very successful. Zadar is also the hometown of Croatian [[soccer|football]] player [[Luka Modric]].
==Twinning==
Zadar maintains cultural, economic and educational ties with:
*{{flagicon|UK}} [[Dundee]], [[United Kingdom]].
*{{flagicon|Italy}} [[Reggio Emilia]], [[Italy]].
*{{flagicon|France}} [[Romans-sur-Isère]], [[France]].
*{{flagicon|Germany}} [[Fürstenfeldbruck]], [[Germany]].
*{{flagicon|Hungary}} [[Székesfehérvár]], [[Hungary]].
*{{flagicon|Italy}} [[Padua]], [[Italy]].
*{{flagicon|Chile}} [[Iquique]], [[Chile]].
*{{flagicon|Slovakia}} [[Banská Bystrica]], [[Slovakia]].
<!--[excessive length; possibly cleanup and split to a subarticle, but otherwise is disproportionate in size] ==Famous people from Zadar==
=== From the foundation to 1850 ===
* [[Juraj Baraković]] - renaissance poet
* [[Šime Budinić]] - poet and writer
* [[Federico Crisogono]] (Federicus Chrysogonus) (1472 - 1538) - Scientist, professor at the University of [[Padua]]
* [[Donatus]] - saint
* [[Francesco Maria Fenzi]] (1738 - 1829) - Bishop of Jerusalem[http://books.google.it/books?id=ewAGAAAAQAAJ&pg=RA2-PA639&lpg=RA2-PA639&dq=nato+a+zara&source=web&ots=65CKeUygQY&sig=_mrvmCWMbfouZGLufXqcOZJteNs&hl=it]
* [[Giovanni Francesco Fortunio]] - linguist and writer (author of the first [[Italian grammar]])
* [[Giacomo da Bitetto]] (Giacomo Varinguer) - Blessed from 15th century[http://www.santiebeati.it/dettaglio/90858][http://www.beatogiacomo.org/EN/beato/]
* [[Jelena of Zadar]] - Croatian queen from 10th century
* [[Pope John IV]] - Pope in the 7th century
* [[Brne Karnarutić]]- renaissance writer
* [[Šimun Kožičić Benja]] - [[Roman Catholic Diocese of Senj-Modruš|Modruš]] [[bishop]] and founder of [[glagolitic]] printing house in [[Rijeka]]
* [[Luciano Laurana]] - painter
* [[Francesco Laurana]] - sculptor and medallist
* [[Giorgio Orsini]] - architect and sculptor
* [[Andrea Schiavone]] - painter
* [[Jeronim Vidulić]] - poet
* [[Petar Zoranić]] - Writer of the first Croatian novel
=== 1800 - 1950 ===
* [[Silvio Ballarin]] (1901 - 1968) - Mathematic[http://matematica.unibocconi.it/storia/letterab/biogr-ballarin.htm]
* [[Vladimir Bersa]] - composer
* [[Dragutin Blažeković]] - Austrian governor of Dalmatia, born in [[Osijek]]
* [[Spiridon Brusina]] - scientist
* [[Antonio Calebotta]] - basketball player
* [[Raffaele Cecconi]] (1930) - Italian poet and writer[http://crosbi.znanstvenici.hr/prikazi-rad?chset=ASCII&lang=EN&rad=210524]
* [[Bruno Cervenca]] (1903 - 1986) - Italian composer[http://www.mclink.it/com/inform/art/07n14107.htm]
* Count [[Antonio Cippico]] (1877 - 1935) - Italian politicman and patriot [http://digilander.libero.it/arupinum/cippico.html]
* [[Arturo Colautti]] (1851 - 1914), Italian poet, patriot and irredentist [http://www.annievivanti.it/personaggi/arturo%20colautti.html]
* [[Simeone Duca]] - (Šime Duka) maecena and priest
* [[Gianni Garko]] (Giovanni Garcovich) (1935) - Italian actor[http://film.zam.it/cast.php?id_pers=45955&nome_pers=GIANNI%20GARKO][http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0307491/]
* Baron [[Giovanni De Ghetaldi]] military and diplomat (son of Baron Biagio de Ghetaldi)
* [[Roberto Ghiglianovich]] - (1863 - 1830), Politicman, Italian irredentist [http://digilander.libero.it/arupinum/ghiglianovich.html]
* [[Niccolò Gradi]] - (1823 – 1894), poet
* [[Marije Kraja]] (1911 - 1999) - Albanian singer
* [[Furio Lauri]] (1918 - 2002) - Italian patriot[http://www.anpi.it/uomini/lauri_furio.htm]
* [[Girolamo Luxardo]] - founder of the Original Marischino brand, [http://www-luxardo.it Luxardo]
* [[Stelvio Mestrovich]] (1948) - Musical critic and writer[http://www.vigata.org/mestrovich/]
* [[Ottavio Missoni]] - fashion designer; owner of the [http://www.missoni.com/ Missoni] fashion brand
* [[Natko Nodilo]] - Founder of the oldest running Croatian newspaper [[Narodni list]]
* [[Secondo Raggi Karuz]] (1933) - Italian painter[http://www.dalmatia.it/dalmazia/dalmata/news4.htm]
* [[Giuseppe Sabalich]] - literary worker
* [[Francesco Salghetti-Drioli]] (1811 - 1877) - Painter, owner of the Salghetti-Drioli industries[http://www.hart.hr/pdf/r22/22-11-Tomic.pdf]
* [[Giovanni Smirich]] - conservation worker and painter
* [[Simone Stratico]] - Scientist
* [[Carlo Tivaroni]] (1843 - 1906) - historian, [[Garibaldi]]st [http://digilander.libero.it/arup/tivaroni.html]
* [[Georg Ritter von Trapp]] - Austrian Navy officer and head of the Trapp family singers
* [[Felix von Weingartner]] - Austrian composer, conductor, pianist and writer
* [[Vicko Zmajević]] - archbishop and politician
=== 1950 - present days ===
* [[Saša Bjelanović]]- international football player
* [[Krešimir Ćosić]] - member of the [[Basketball Hall of Fame]]
* [[Goranko Fižulić]] - former Croatian economy minister
* [[Giuseppe Gjergja]] - basketball player
* [[Ante Gotovina]] - [[Croatian Army]] general
* [[Mladen Grdović]] - singer
* [[Božidar Kalmeta]] - [[as of 2005|current]] Croatian Minister of Traffic and Tourism
* [[Ive Livljanić]] - diplomat
* [[Budimir Lončar]] - diplomat
* [[Duško Lokin]] - singer
* [[Korina Longin]] - top model
* [[Gianni Maršan]] - diplomat and composer
* [[Ivica Maštruko]] - diplomat
* [[Luka Modrić]]- Football player
* [[Antun Nalis]] - actor
* [[Dado Pršo]] - football player
* [[Riva (band)|Riva]] - pop band, [[1989 Eurovision Song Contest]] winners
* [[Joso Škara]] - former Croatian Labour and Healthcare Minister
* [[Josip Skoblar]] - football player, 1974 [[Golden boot]]
* [[Joso Špralja]] - artist
* [[Ana Lovrin]]- Croatian minister of law, former mayor of Zadar
* [[Zoran Primorac]]- Croatian prize winning table tennis player
* [[Arijan Komazec]]- Noted Croatian basketball player
* [[Stojko Vranković]]- Famous Croatian basketball player
* [[Vladan Desnica]] - writer
* [[Natali Dizdar]] - Croatian pop-singer
* [[Pavle Dešpalj]] - conducter and composer
* [[Valter Dešpalj]] - cello player
* [[Tomislav Ivčić]] - composer, singer and politician
=== Others (related to Zadar) ===
* [[Krist Novoselic]]- Nirvana bassist, went to school in Zadar
* [[Mark Viduka]]- Australian football international (father from Zadar)
* [[David Zdrilic]]- Australian football international (father from Zadar)
* [[Teddy Lučić]]- Swedish football international (father from Zadar)
* [[Zlatan Ibrahimović]]- Swedish football international (mother from Zadar)
* [[Jason Čulina]]- Australian football international (father from Zadar)
* [[Ivica Jerak]] - Former U.S. Army Delta Force Operator, killed in Iraq in 2005.
* [[Agim Çeku]]- Kosovo prime minister (lived in Zadar for long time period)
-->
==See also==
*[[Archdiocese of Zadar]]
*[[Bombing of Zara in World War II|Bombing of Zara]]
*[[History of Croatia]]
*[[History of Dalmatia]]
*[[History of Italy]]
*[[History of Yugoslavia]]
*[[Republic of Venice]]
==Sources==
* the "Miroslav Krleža" Lexicographic Institute text about Zadar.
*{{1911}}
History about world
==References==
{{reflist}}
==External links==
{{commons|Zadar|Zadar}}
* [http://www.tzzadar.hr/ Zadar Tourist Board]
* [http://www.zadar-airport.hr/ Zadar Airport]
* [http://www.unizd.hr The University of Zadar]
* [http://www.istriadalmaziacards.com/html/collezioni_geo_c.php?IDArea=3&IDReg=11&IDCitta=141 Old postcards of Zara/Zadar (it.)]
*[http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/07/06/travel/06next.html?ref=travel After 2,000 Years, a Croatian Port Town Still Seduces-The New York Times]
<!-- starohrvatske crkve u Zadru -->
==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Zadar_Donat_Forum.jpg|St. Donat's Church and Roman Forum
Image:Zadar_Forum.jpg|Roman Forum in Zadar
Image:Zadar_Sveta_Stosija.jpg|[[Cathedral of St. Anastasia, Zadar|St. Anastasia Cathedral/sv. Stošija]] in Zadar
Image:Zadar_SvMarija.jpg|St. Mary's Church
Image:Zadar_SvSimun.jpg|St. Simeon's Church
Image:Zadar_SvSimun_oltar.jpg|St. Simeon/sv. Šimun
Image:Zadar_PortaMarina.jpg|Morska vrata/Porta marina
Image:Zadar_Sveuciliste.jpg|University of Zadar (1396)
</gallery>
{{Croatian cities}}
{{Zadar County}}
{{World Heritage Sites in Croatia}}
[[Category:Zadar| ]]
[[Category:Cities and towns in Croatia]]
[[Category:Coastal cities]]
[[Category:World Heritage Sites in Croatia]]
[[Category:Port cities in Europe]]
{{Link FA|hr}}
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